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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 09-02-2009, 05:13 AM   #61
paraklas
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OMG, after a lot of searching I managed to isolate the king of rattles in my E46.

Source: Annoying rattle coming from passenger seat
Cause: The idiot who decided that a spring lock washer like that below is the best way to secure a bracket on the seat
Solution: Remove first aid box. Look under the seat, on the left & right sides there are 2 small metal brackets, easily identified by their colour (everything else is black, those are silver). They are secured on the seat with a pivot, a spring and a spring washer. As time passes, the spring washer is pushed out from the pivot, allowing the bracket to move, causing a very very annoying rattle. I took a screwdriver and pushed the washer back in the place to fit tightly again. Not a permanent solution so I epoxi-ed the washer on the pivot to prevent future movement.
This is the lock washer i am talking about***********:

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Last edited by paraklas; 09-02-2009 at 05:15 AM.
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:08 PM   #62
loayo
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Hey Paraklas,

I am not sure if this my problem or not I will look. No one is really able to find the source. One thought was that the noise is coming from the passenger door ???

Regards,
Loay
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Last edited by loayo; 09-02-2009 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 09-19-2009, 08:04 AM   #63
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Gummi PFledge this, Gummi PFledge that. What is this magical goo that will fix rattly windows and doors? I have a problem where my rear window rattles about in its track. I've never taken it apart so I don't know why all of a sudden it would sound as if it is loose. (I also barely use it so I don't suspect the regulator). It only happens when I go over a really sharp bumps. Does anyone think I should try smearing this Pfledge or similar product? Also, where does on even apply it?
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:45 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraklas View Post
Source #4: Cracking noise (like knocking sound plastic on plastic)
Cause: Seat belt lock hitting on the center console (when not engaged)
Solution: Push the seat belt lock away from center console (Simple eh?)
I just placed a piece of felt on the side of the seat belt buckle that was hitting the console. No more annoying rattle.
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:09 AM   #65
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Two Rattles fixed today, figured i would resurrect paraklas old thread!

Sport Seat Headrest constantly ticking/rattling. Fixed by applying a small amount of grease on the metal tab/stop that contacts the headrest rod (notches), keeps it at a certain level. worked great.


Sport Seat Passenger rattle plastic rattle. There is a piece of trim that runs around the front of the seat that goes below the pull out leg support. It has two screws that hold it on both sides and then two plastic clips that go into holes under the leg support. These I found rattle when it gets cold out; probably the plastic is shrinking a bit.... I took a few pieces of felt tape and wrapped the plastic tabs and reinstalled. Worked like a charm!

Two for two!
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:43 PM   #66
nick0780
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Thanks, Helped me a lot. Had the glove box rattle.
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Old 01-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #67
Nick DeZan
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I have had a vibratory rattle that seemed to come from either the passenger door, passenger seat, or behind the passenger airbag.

After using my fist to tap everything, I finally determined the noise was coming from the passenger side mirror. My son tapped it while I was inside and the sound was duplicated.

After removing the mirror glass, I found that the four plastic clips that retain the painted front shell of the mirror were loose.

I used blue silicone sealer on these clips and the noise was gone. Its amazing how far a vibration can travel.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:57 PM   #68
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I have one for you

I have a slight buzz/rattle that you hear when in the drivers seat coming from under the dash/console, possibly near the pedals or even gearbox area. I have been able to stop the noise by slightly pressing the gas pedal even without inducing any revs, so tells me its coming from the pedal??

I have made a video that shows how the noise stops everytime i press the pedal. Facebook link only (requires flash player) as I couldnt upload to youtube from my phone.

You will have to copy the whole url and paste into a browser as when I paste the link its trying to embedd which doesnt work

www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150490142313693

Thanks

Last edited by Hazey82; 01-19-2012 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:06 PM   #69
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:07 AM   #70
matttrow
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Source 1 - question

Hi Guys, where can I source the pins for Source 1?


Source #1: Rear left/right panels (High pitch rattle)
Cause: Broken push/lock pins
Solution: Remove panels, install new upgraded pins

much apreciated
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Old 02-04-2012, 07:00 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazey82 View Post
I have one for you

I have a slight buzz/rattle that you hear when in the drivers seat coming from under the dash/console, possibly near the pedals or even gearbox area. I have been able to stop the noise by slightly pressing the gas pedal even without inducing any revs, so tells me its coming from the pedal??

I have made a video that shows how the noise stops everytime i press the pedal. Facebook link only (requires flash player) as I couldnt upload to youtube from my phone.

You will have to copy the whole url and paste into a browser as when I paste the link its trying to embedd which doesnt work

www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150490142313693

Thanks
Your pedal is held in by a bracket/clip, it's possible that it somehow broke. IIRC it's a $7 part at the dealer
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Old 02-10-2012, 04:52 PM   #72
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Just sorted out a noisy front passenger door on an 2004 325xiT today.

Plastic rattle inside door.

Turns out it was some strange plastic part I have yet to understand or identify inside the door. A curved plastic part that is about 8-9 inches long.

It has a keyhole attachment point on the outside part of the glass and the lower portion actually connects to a hole behind the body side molding.

Took off door panel, remove airbag, carefully pulled back the upper corner of the vapor barrier using heat gun, and removed the outside body side molding. removed the plastic part put about 3 layers of double sided sticky foam tape in the top part of the plastic part, a small portion of foam tape on the lower portion that stick though the door skin behind the body side molding. Reinstalled the plastic part, put some silicon sealer on the end of the part that connects through the door skin, behind the body side molding.

NO MORE ANNOYING RATTLE.

I am still trying to figure out what this piece is, what it is for and why it was loose. I am assuming that it is somewhat spring loaded in the door and after 8 years, the plastic has flattened out. No problems on the drivers door, just the passenger front door??
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:22 PM   #73
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I got one that doesn't seem to be described here. Upon cold starts, I get sound like a compressor.. like one of those tire pumps.. and the noise get's faster with speed. It's coming from the passenger side sounds like it could be from the vent or the wheel, goes away after couple of minutes of driving
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:35 PM   #74
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SAP - Secondary Air Pump, electric motor mounted just forward of the right side strut tower. Should run for approximately 90+ seconds on cold start.

This pump running is "normal", however, the pump bearings can go bad and get noisier than "normal". Hard to tell if it is too loud without hearing in person.

My E39 SAP bearings went back, you could hear the car 4-5 houses away, was so bad it rattled and vibrated and you could feel it inside the car!
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 02-10-2012 at 08:22 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:17 PM   #75
BMWboi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
SAP - Secondary Air Pump, electric motor mounted just forward of the right side strut tower. Should run for approximately 90+ seconds on cold start.

This pump running is "normal", however, the pump bearings can go bad and get noisier than "normal". Hard to tell if it is too loud without hearing in person.

My E39 SAP bearings went back, you could hear the car 4-5 houses away, was so bad it rattled and vibrated and you could fell it inside the car!

ahh well mine seems normal then. Cheers!
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:57 AM   #76
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Thread bump with more findings

Symptom:
"Creaking" sound when going over uneven surfaces causing a unibody flex in opposite directions (much like when twisting clothes to remove excess water). Applies to E46 with folding rear seats.

Possible Cause:
The back section of the backseat is hard plastic and comes in contact with the plastic rear parcel shelf trim. The very slight chassis flex and (possibly) the weaker structure due to folding seats, causes the backseat to rub causing the very annoying "pirate ship style" sound.

Fix:
1. Loosen the backseat latches from the trunk (4 bolts total, 2 per latch), pull them away from the backseat and tighten. This will allow for a more tight lock of the folding seat. (Credit goes to NE1L for solution and suggestion)
2. In case the above fix doesn't do the trick, apply a layer of cloth tape across the plastic trim where the 2 surfaces mate. This will put a cushion between the trim and the backseat, eliminating any noises from flexing.

Original post here
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Last edited by paraklas; 08-10-2012 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:42 AM   #77
J LAU
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This Thread is amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Maybe I dont need a new car after all.
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:35 PM   #78
M3'D
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Paraklas,
My E46M3 it seems the center console is rattling, with or without anything in the drink holders, does the drink holder pop out? Maybe lining the underside of it with a sound damping material?
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