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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-06-2008, 02:24 AM   #1
330Bryan
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DIY Success story! Rough idle solved.

I'll post this with the hope that it will help someone else searching this and other boards for the same answers I was looking for. It isn't an actual DIY, rather my own little nightmare with a happy ending.

First, my symptoms:
SES light on. Peake tool says E3, E4, CA, CB and the various codes for misfires.

My idle was rough, especially after a cold start. Slight engine hesitation, ping/misfires causing some nasty noise and vibrations.

Back story:
I drove the car for 9+ months with the light on thinking it was simply my o2 sensors that needed to be changed. I did not notice ANY degradation in performance until I began "fixing" things.

How did I solve my problem?
Well I went to get my state inspection (with smog/ecu check) in Texas. I failed, so I began troubleshooting.

I began by changing out my valve cover gasket with 100k miles on it, and the stock park plugs for some Bosch Platinum+ 4. Also picked up some new coil boots as I began getting misfire codes after installing the plugs.

Still had the SES light on. Same codes as usual.

Well the codes said o2 sensor, and they had 100k+ miles on them so I picked up and installed 4 new OEM sensors.

SES still on, same E3, E4 etc. codes.

Had Autozone check with their OBDII scanner and got the following codes:

P0313
P0171
P0174
P1083
P1085

The OBDII scan actually gave me a MUCH better explanation of what was wrong than the Peake tool did in my opinion.

Running lean on both banks was a lot more helpful than "adaptation/control limit".

So I dug around and found a torn lower intake boot and installed a new one.

Same codes, still.

I was beginning to wonder now just how much money I was going to spend to pass an inspection. The more items I replaced, the worse my rough idle got and the more frequent the engine misfires became. I read all over this site and many others for answers that didn't involve expensive trips shops or MAF sensors.

I'd noticed long ago that my 330 was consuming a lot more oil than I'd ever imagined possible, and I'd read that running lean combined with this could point to the crank case valve. I picked up a new one, and the 4 new hoses that are needed and destroyed that evil piece of **** in a battle that I eventually won. Got the new one and all the lines reinstalled.

I might be losing less oil, but I've STILL got the SES light and the same codes.

Now I am getting fed up. My idle is terrible now and I have to hold slightly on the gas at stop lights to avoid stalling or the horrible ping/knock coming from each cylinder.

I manned up and bought a new DISA adjuster and idle control valve as those were two of the last three items I'd read that could be a major culprit for my problems.

The new DISA had to be screwed into the manifold whereas the old could just effortlessly be installed. It was snug and air tight. The idle problem had been solved. The car was not bogging down and trying to stall. Which part exactly solved THAT problem? No idea, I was too mad that my SES was still on with the same damned codes being thrown. I imagine they both helped. I'm sure there was a vacuum leak at the adjuster from the worn gasket and the idle valve was caked black with soot.

The only thing left that I knew could be wrong was the MAF sensor which I'd avoided replacing because of the local cost.

Instead of dropping another $400 on a sensor, I bought a can of CRC MAF cleaner and sprayed it down a few times. Let it dry out for a few minutes in the lovely Texas humidity and reinstalled it.

You guessed it, SES light is off now and there are NO misfires or pings. The car sounds like it did with 1 mile on it. I immediately got in the car and made a 150 mile round trip drive to make sure I wasn't going to throw another code after 15 miles and it is still off. There are no pending codes either according to the Peake tool or an OBDII scanner.



Cliff's notes:

Buy the ****ing can of MAF cleaner for $7 and follow the simple instructions and perform the easy tests before you spend $1340 on parts. I just knew it couldn't have been that simple, and after 3 weeks of working in the garage and a new television for the upcoming football season spent on the car I was proven wrong by a $7 can of cleaner that probably 250 threads say to buy and use first.
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:32 AM   #2
Dreamliner330
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:41 AM   #3
weisiong123
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I am having rough idle problems too now. I will try Dan99's method of sealing the DISA valve with silicone. So are you saying cleaning your MAF solve the problem ? I heard a lot of horror stories where the MAF got damaged, how do I avoid this.

So you bought this 2 parts:
06 ADJUSTER UNIT 11611440049 $210.92
07 T-SHAPE IDLE REGULATING VALVE 13411744713 $178.00

And it solved your IDLE problem but still SES comes on ?

I have no warning light, only rough idle sometimes , and I will restart my car and all back to normal.

Im thinking these could cause the problem:

Intake elbow crack
Adjuster Unit seal not thick enough
Idle Control Valve not clean enough


Didn't you tried cleaning these 1st before buying a new part?
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Old 09-06-2008, 04:36 AM   #4
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http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

hope the link help
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Old 09-06-2008, 10:40 AM   #5
330Bryan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weisiong123 View Post
I am having rough idle problems too now. I will try Dan99's method of sealing the DISA valve with silicone. So are you saying cleaning your MAF solve the problem ? I heard a lot of horror stories where the MAF got damaged, how do I avoid this.

So you bought this 2 parts:
06 ADJUSTER UNIT 11611440049 $210.92
07 T-SHAPE IDLE REGULATING VALVE 13411744713 $178.00

And it solved your IDLE problem but still SES comes on ?

I have no warning light, only rough idle sometimes , and I will restart my car and all back to normal.

Im thinking these could cause the problem:

Intake elbow crack
Adjuster Unit seal not thick enough
Idle Control Valve not clean enough


Didn't you tried cleaning these 1st before buying a new part?
I cleaned the Adjuster Unit and the Idle Control Valve before purchasing new parts but only shot compressed air through the MAF sensor before breaking down and buying the CRC cleaner.

I originally had NO idle problems. I only had the problems once I replaced my spark plugs. From there each part I diagnosed and replaced the problem got worse, until I replaced the DISA adjuster and the idle control valve.

Yes, the SES light was still on afterwards but it idle smooth. There were some engine pings still. The ecu claimed the motor was still running too lean on both banks. Cleaning the MAF apparently solved it.
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Old 09-06-2008, 10:43 AM   #6
weisiong123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 330Bryan View Post
I cleaned the Adjuster Unit and the Idle Control Valve before purchasing new parts but only shot compressed air through the MAF sensor before breaking down and buying the CRC cleaner.

I originally had NO idle problems. I only had the problems once I replaced my spark plugs. From there each part I diagnosed and replaced the problem got worse, until I replaced the DISA adjuster and the idle control valve.

Yes, the SES light was still on afterwards but it idle smooth. There were some engine pings still. The ecu claimed the motor was still running too lean on both banks. Cleaning the MAF apparently solved it.
If Im not mistaken the DISA adjuster is part of the Adjuster Unit right? I don't see a part number for that. So you bought the whole Adjuster Unit ?
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Old 09-06-2008, 10:53 AM   #7
330Bryan
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My Ride: 2010 BMW E92 Coupe
$69.51 Valve cover gasket, BMW coolant from a dealer
$44.92 Bosch Platinum+ 4 spark plugs from Advanced Auto
$127.51 coil boots, cabin filter from a dealer
$373.96 pre cat o2 sensors from a dealer
$36.58 secondary air pump bolts from bimmerspecialist.com
$152.63 post cat o2 sensors, washer/nut, head stud from bavauto.com
$24.94 lower intake boot from a dealer
$173.44 oil seperator, hoses from a dealer
$367.88 disa adjuster, idle control valve from bimmerspecialist.com
$7.50 crc maf cleaner from the closest auto parts store
$239.88 MAF sensor overnighted from bimmerspecialist.com

Here are a couple of tips:
1. If you have time on your hands source your parts online. Compare the price I paid for pre-cat o2 sensors to what I paid for the post cats. The retail value any normal person pays at a dealer for an Adjuster Unit or Idle Valve is over $500. I purchased from local dealers because I didn't feel I had the time to wait for ground shipping and anything other than ground was too expensive. That leads me to...

2. Bimmerspecialist.com I don't want to plug anyone more than the other, but they offer cheap expedited shipping on high value, low weight parts. I had the adjuster and valve FedEx overnighted for $4. That bargain cannot be beat.

3. That secondary air pump. Don't wiggle it when changing your pre-cat sensors. Remove the entire mount it is attached to and push it aside, but don't put any stress on the 3, most likely dry rotting, rubber bolts that secure it to the mount. Those 3 tiny rubber bolts are smaller than some diet supplements and cost $12-18 each online. All 3 snapped in half almost effortlessly.

added the maf sensor

Last edited by 330Bryan; 09-09-2008 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 09-06-2008, 10:53 AM   #8
330Bryan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weisiong123 View Post
If Im not mistaken the DISA adjuster is part of the Adjuster Unit right? I don't see a part number for that. So you bought the whole Adjuster Unit ?
Correct.
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Old 09-06-2008, 11:02 AM   #9
weisiong123
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Well I sprayed carb cleaner at the adjuster unit round opening..and the idle got rougher..so Im gonna add silicone to it ...and maybe change my lower intake elbow boot too..if that don't solve my problems then I will consider buying a new replacement.
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:56 AM   #10
weisiong123
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Added the silicone layer on the adjuster unit...still same...

Changed new camshaft exhaust side......still same..

I'm gonna buy a new rubber intake boot and when I install that I will clean the ICV properly this time..
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:36 PM   #11
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good luck my friend..

Hope u solve ur problem
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Old 09-09-2008, 06:35 AM   #12
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Now thats some determination. Good job man.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:32 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by weisiong123 View Post
Added the silicone layer on the adjuster
I'm gonna buy a new rubber intake boot and when I install that I will clean the ICV properly this time..
Where are you getting your rubber intake boot from and how much did they charge?
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:34 AM   #14
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I also have an 01 330ci and my Peake tool gave the same codes initially. These are error codes! Read the instruction manual which said "some cars need to have the tool plugged in then turn the ignition on" Worked for me! Got table 19 and cam sensor code 41. Try this.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:40 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by bmw328ciwa View Post
Where are you getting your rubber intake boot from and how much did they charge?
BMW Australia...$51 aud....thats like $45 usd...I know that is like triple the price you can get in US but I don't wanna wait for shipping and shipping itself will cost $30 unless I order a bunch of things which I don't need right now..
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:12 PM   #16
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Fixed?
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Old 09-09-2008, 01:27 PM   #17
weisiong123
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Fixed?
Not yet, just gonna pick up the part tomorrow, haven't replace it yet..no time
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Old 09-09-2008, 01:30 PM   #18
330Bryan
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Fixed?
Update!

No! Not fixed! CEL came on after a couple days of on/off driving and near 200 miles. Same old codes.

I spent all day at work yesterday (not working) and reading various forums on how to diagnose a MAF sensor.

Simple test, run the car normally with the CEL lit so it is using the "bad" fuel map. Car has a knock and the idle stutters.

Now, reset the ECU and run the car with the MAF unplugged. Only code being thrown so far is the Peake code 08, stating the MAF isn't there but the car runs fine. No stutter, no rough idle or bad starts. No stalls, no problems at all save the CEL code.

New MAF is on the way, be here tomorrow morning. Hopefully this will finally solve this very expensive, very stupid and quite broad problem.
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:30 PM   #19
weisiong123
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Honestly, if the intake boot doesn't solve my problem I give up lol...

Let us know how it goes bro...you been spending quite a lot for this problem huh..

For my problem I don't have any warning lights on...but I do have rough idle and the car is funny to drive..sounds funny when I press on the accelerator ...is that misfiring ?

Anyways, the problem could go away after restarting the car...

So normally it happens when I let the car idle for awhile..like 5-10 minutes..then it will get really rough..

Could I just have a leak in my intake elbow ?

Also, at my last service few weeks ago the mechanic says I need to change this part:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=15&hl=59

Number 7 in the diagram...could that have anything to do with causing my rough idle problem? I already have the part with me just haven't replaced it yet.
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:55 PM   #20
330Bryan
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That line could cause an intermittent problem with your idle but I doubt it. It is really simple to inspect, just remove the fuel rail cover and check the plastic hose that is running the length of the motor for cracks. My hose was fine, it was the protective covering around it that basically turned to dust when touched.

Spending a bit is an understatement.

edit:

I just read that you already have that part. I wouldn't go anywhere near that repair unless you are replacing all 4 hoses and the oil separator itself. The misery and sweat and tears that any garage warrior endures on that job is only worth it if you do it all, and at once.
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