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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-02-2010, 01:22 PM   #61
pish180
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For everyone else....

On my 02 M3.

I used a 1 13/16 (46.0375mm) socket that I got from Sears. Only place that had a socket that large that I could get same day. My install was flawless. My whole wheel hub came out with a simple tug and the inner race was still attached. So i got lucky I guess. I had 142k miles on my car and it was most certainly past due for front wheel bearing. I used a 4ft 1/2 drive breaker bar which work flawless for breaking the nut loose.

This was i'd say a 3-4/10 job hardness. 1 being rotating your tires. 10 being motor swap. I thought it was easy and it was my 1st time ever doing wheel bearings. Took me total pull it to pull out 3hrs. As long as you have the right tools its cake.
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Last edited by pish180; 09-02-2010 at 01:28 PM. Reason: car specification
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Old 10-03-2010, 05:33 PM   #62
ShaunWerkz
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Just finished doing this with my 02 325i!! Super easy with the help of this writeup! THANKS
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:51 PM   #63
Bustedwheel
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Is the Slide hammer bearing remover really necessary? I've seen a few write ups, and sometimes they use them and sometimes not. I figure that the puller to remove the race is a necessity, but if the bearing is really worn out, won't it come right off without the slide hammer?

Also, if I pull my wheel off, will I be able to feel the play in the bearing with the rotor and caliper still on?

Need to do mine soon, and trying to line up the right tools.

Last edited by Bustedwheel; 10-05-2010 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:58 PM   #64
cschlaff
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Where did you purchase the hub/bearing assembly? Autohausaz seems to only have the bearing itself. Linky

Any other good OEM sources?

Thanks,
Chuck
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:03 PM   #65
genuity
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Originally Posted by cschlaff View Post
Where did you purchase the hub/bearing assembly? Autohausaz seems to only have the bearing itself. Linky

Any other good OEM sources?

Thanks,
Chuck
You need to get the part number for #1 and use that to search on autohausaz. #1 contains the wheel bearing. There is no just replacing the bearing without the hub on this one. I'd also get the other parts, since some of those are one time use and also you'll most likely damage them in the process of taking them off. AutohausAZ is a good place to get them from--I got all of those from them.
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:10 PM   #66
genuity
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Originally Posted by Bustedwheel View Post
Is the Slide hammer bearing remover really necessary? I've seen a few write ups, and sometimes they use them and sometimes not. I figure that the puller to remove the race is a necessity, but if the bearing is really worn out, won't it come right off without the slide hammer?

Also, if I pull my wheel off, will I be able to feel the play in the bearing with the rotor and caliper still on?

Need to do mine soon, and trying to line up the right tools.
Slide hammer will help a great deal or if you have a three jaw gear puller, it will also do the job. You might get left with the race on the axle sub. One of mine came off cleanly with the hub and the other one got stuck. Glad I got the gear puller.

You will be able to feel the play in your bearing with the rotor and caliper on, if it is that bad. On mine I did not have the play or a noise like in the videos below, but I could tell that the bearings were getting dried out and on their way out soon.

Example of noise...although this is one type of behavior displayed failing wheel bearings. There are a few other types so beware:



BimmersGarage DIYs:



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Old 11-09-2010, 08:49 PM   #67
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Can anyone tell me if the wheel bearing nut is reverse thread like a fan blade nut or is it normal thread, thanks.
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:08 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msuka View Post
Can anyone tell me if the wheel bearing nut is reverse thread like a fan blade nut or is it normal thread, thanks.
pretty sure its normal threaded.

I actually found it quite easy to break it lose. Just get a long pipe and use at least a 1/2" drive if not a 3/4" drive. Mine where almost effortless and I have 144k miles from the DC area (aka we get snow).
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:38 PM   #69
genuity
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Can anyone tell me if the wheel bearing nut is reverse thread like a fan blade nut or is it normal thread, thanks.
It's normal threaded.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:17 PM   #70
TrickTizzle
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How long did it take you to do this?
and
Whats the level of difficultY?
Also what mileage is this usually due?

Last edited by TrickTizzle; 11-09-2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:16 PM   #71
msuka
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Thanks for the quick reply guys, will be replacing my driver side bearing this weekend.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:07 AM   #72
msuka
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got it off this morning took me less than 2 minutes since I already had the rotor and caliper off for my brake job, no need for the jaw puller I was able to slide it off by hand.
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:48 PM   #73
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ONE Question, on the issue of bad wheel bearing/hub assembly. Can a bad bearing cause one side of the car to be 5mm lower?? I think my front right bearing is shot, and for some reason that side sags 5mm lower than driver side. BTW I already replaced springs/struts, control arms/balljoints are good, and CAB's are new. I don't see anything else that could cause this imbalance, which is causing my car to pull to right. But I've never heard any1 say a bad bearing/hub assembly can cause this. And it is making noise, so I already ordered the hub assembly. I guess I will find out after the install, hopefully my wheels don't fall off until then.
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:53 AM   #74
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Good to see that others are getting some good use from this old DIY.

^ With regard to your height and pull issue, I would doubt that its cause is a bad wheel bearing. Consider that a wheel bearing is by design to roll in a parallel plane to the strut assembly so it would have to have a major amount of runout in it to allow for the wheel to slack such that it has dropped the ride height 5mm at the top of the tire.

Based on your repair list, I'd say it is more likely ball joints or strut mounts.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:31 AM   #75
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Snap-On has a really nice 46mm impact socket that has a 1/2" drive which would be cool to use without an adapter. Sure the socket is overpriced, but I wonder if it is small enough on the outside, it's not thin walled. I believe it's 64mm OD.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:04 AM   #76
BimmersGarage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDA View Post
Good to see that others are getting some good use from this old DIY.

^ With regard to your height and pull issue, I would doubt that its cause is a bad wheel bearing. Consider that a wheel bearing is by design to roll in a parallel plane to the strut assembly so it would have to have a major amount of runout in it to allow for the wheel to slack such that it has dropped the ride height 5mm at the top of the tire.

Based on your repair list, I'd say it is more likely ball joints or strut mounts.
Hey GDA
How's it been?

Agreed, more likely strut mounts (or strut tower area) than hub bearings..

Quote:
Originally Posted by RP323i View Post
ONE Question, on the issue of bad wheel bearing/hub assembly. Can a bad bearing cause one side of the car to be 5mm lower?? I think my front right bearing is shot, and for some reason that side sags 5mm lower than driver side. BTW I already replaced springs/struts, control arms/balljoints are good, and CAB's are new. I don't see anything else that could cause this imbalance, which is causing my car to pull to right. But I've never heard any1 say a bad bearing/hub assembly can cause this. And it is making noise, so I already ordered the hub assembly. I guess I will find out after the install, hopefully my wheels don't fall off until then.
I'm curious... where are you taking the height measurements, exactly?

And, are there any non-standard "weighted" items in your vehicle? (ie: Audio amps, subs, extra batteries, etc.) That may be causing the the issue.

Also, who did the front strut/shock install... Perhaps a spring pad was left off or not set properly on one side... (Driver side?) (#8, 11)


Lastly, is the reinforcement plate (subframe brace) installed properly? At the right torque and torque angle.
(#3)


Just brainstorming some of the possibilities.

Last edited by BimmersGarage; 11-12-2010 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:14 PM   #77
GDA
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Snap-On has a really nice 46mm impact socket that has a 1/2" drive which would be cool to use without an adapter. Sure the socket is overpriced, but I wonder if it is small enough on the outside, it's not thin walled. I believe it's 64mm OD.

You are talking about the one I used in my DIY. Check the pic with it on my BP 1/2 impact. Lots of room, hasn't even marred the outerwall of the socket and i've also used it on my E34 M5 and some other older BMWs.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:05 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by GDA View Post
You are talking about the one I used in my DIY. Check the pic with it on my BP 1/2 impact. Lots of room, hasn't even marred the outerwall of the socket and i've also used it on my E34 M5 and some other older BMWs.
So it is, thanks!
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:30 AM   #79
Bustedwheel
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I decided that I couldn't stand the noise anymore and just ordered the parts for this. I know I might get some sh1t for this, but I ordered the hubs/bearings from Advanced Auto Parts. They were free shipping and 20% off. Total was $130. The socket was the bigger pain. I ordered one from northern tool for $10, but it is a 3/4 drive. Got an adapter for $5 to bring it down to 1/2.

If anyone is in Boston and wants to borrow the socket afterward, PM me.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:31 PM   #80
Bustedwheel
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I just finished replacing both my about 10 minutes ago. Took me about 4 hours total. Most of the time was spent wrestling off the inner race. A word of advice. Use a puller for the inner race. The dremel technique should be a last resort. I know harbor freight has them for pretty cheap. With the dremel, you have to cut almost all the way through the thing, being careful not to hit the spindal, and then split it with a chisel and hammer. Not fun. Had I had a puller, it probably would have taken me half the time.

Getting the old bearing off is pretty easy. I had some old rotors laying around, so I turned one backwards and bolted it to the hub to give me something to hold on to. Probably could use your regular rotors as well, as it probably won't damage them. Hopefully you have the puller and you could use it for this too, but not needed.

I also started to remove the caliper form the bracket out of habit, then realized it is unnecessary and you can just take it off all together and hang it from the spring (unless you are doing brakes at the same time)

Also, I did not remove the inner seal and the brake baking plate. I was able to clean it well enough with it on, and I didn't want to risk bending it up.


The 46 MM socket I bought worked great for tapping the new bearing back in place as well.

It sure was nice bolting everything back on to a nice clean new hub!

Last edited by Bustedwheel; 12-02-2010 at 01:39 PM.
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