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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-05-2009, 10:49 PM   #21
Lbert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loko-moko View Post

Can anyone think of anything else that may not be tight enough?
Check your sway bar end links. See if it is worn or loose.
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #22
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I'm going to try the jack under the inner bj trick tomorrow. I ran into this today where the bj gave while I was loosening the nut. The nut was not cooperating.

Any other idea if that doesn't bind it up enough? I tried using a hex in the end, but it was very unwieldy and I may have stripped it out.

I did not cut the BJ shaft, so I have that going. Hopefully the jack trick will work and let me get the nut off.

Then the next problem. I can't get my outers off to save my life. Pickle fork (w/ 10 lb sledge), pitman puller, torch, PB Blaster. All to no avail. Just my luck, inner came off too easy, outer won't come off at all (neither driver or passenger).

Maybe tomorrow will be a better day.

-DPF
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:12 PM   #23
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Where nuts haven't cooperated, a dremel with a metal cutting disk can usually cut the nut, so you can get something in there to wedge it off, or cut it in two places.
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:14 PM   #24
DPF
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True, but that inner bj nut is ***** to get ot with a dremel. Good idea, though. Thanks.

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Old 06-27-2010, 11:16 PM   #25
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did you replace your control arm bushings (you would hear a clunk during braking or acceleration. also check endlinks and tie rod ends.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:36 PM   #26
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go to your local autozone and get one of these http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/80007.jpg
cut the nut from both sides itll come right off and than slide the control arm down by using a ball joint seperator. trust me this will work. thats the only thing that saved me
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:01 AM   #27
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Kamil,

Thanks. I'll grab one this morning.

BeMyWhip, I replaced everything. Endlinks, LCABs, steering coupling, tie rods, struts/springs. Everything between the knuckle and the frame went. Same in the back, that's done already.

Everything was going great until I got to the CAs. Now I'm struggling a bit.

-DPF
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:43 AM   #28
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Jack under the bj didn't work, so splitter it is. Here's hoping. Still need to get the outers off. They're being bastiches.

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Old 06-28-2010, 11:05 PM   #29
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Splitter worked great, got outers off with new pickle fork. A little sharper wedge to it, and the ten pound sledge hammer. Heat/PB Blaster all day yesterday may have helped as well.

All is done. Thanks for the help.

-DPF
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:53 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPF View Post
Splitter worked great, got outers off with new pickle fork. A little sharper wedge to it, and the ten pound sledge hammer. Heat/PB Blaster all day yesterday may have helped as well.

All is done. Thanks for the help.

-DPF
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:54 PM   #31
Jond466
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Inner Control Arm issue

Yeah, unfortunately I did the same thing as loko-moto. Cut off the inner ball joint. Ran into all of the same issues everyone else did, so now its off to try the nut splitter. My next to last resort. My last resort would be to use an engine lift and remove the cross member to cut off the nut from the top. This is a pain in the ass job, but a common issue with e46's
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:44 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Jond466 View Post
Yeah, unfortunately I did the same thing as loko-moto. Cut off the inner ball joint. Ran into all of the same issues everyone else did, so now its off to try the nut splitter. My next to last resort. My last resort would be to use an engine lift and remove the cross member to cut off the nut from the top. This is a pain in the ass job, but a common issue with e46's
I hope that you are keeping that thing soaked with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil (not WD-40). You should be spraying it every few hours, to keep it working.
Go to the auto parts store, and look for one of the new products that freeze the bolt to release it. There are several brands of it now, like Wurth, Loctite, CRC, etc.
I have used freon for years to remove stuck fasteners, but the companies that make penetrating oil have finally caught on to this, and are selling products to freeze fasteners to break them loose.
If you can't find any, get a cheap AC recharge kit, and use it to spray freon onto the bolt. Got the one with the brass valve that punctures the top of the can when you screw it down. Cut the connector at the end of the hose off (the one you would attach to the AC line to inject freon). Now, when you turn the valve to puncture the can of freon, you have a freon sprayer. Use some vise-grips to close off the hose, to stop the flow. **this is not the most environmentally friendly thing to do, so look for the freeze-off sprays, and use this only as a last resort**
It causes the bolt to shrink, and breaks the corrosion bond. Try a few cycles of freon, followed by penetrating oil. The freon or the other canned spray freeze will shrink the bolt, and the penetrating oil can work it's way into the threads. After a few cycles of freeze/penetrating oil, give it a good blast of the the freeze stuff, and try to loosen the nut. Here are some examples of the freeze-off penetrating sprays:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=6585
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:22 AM   #33
Jond466
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Smile Stuck inner ball joint

Ive been using Aero Kroil for penetrating fluid. Ill have to try the freeze off method as well. Thanks for the additional tip.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:48 AM   #34
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The job is a lot simpler when you drop the subframe (crossmember). You still have to separate the outer ball joint but those have easier access so you can sway a big hammer or better yet get the correct ball joint tool. One other benefit to dropping the subframe is you get access to the motor mounts for easy replacement.
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:56 PM   #35
Jond466
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Dropping the crossmember.

Is there anything other then supporting the engine with an engine lift and removing the four bolts in the support, that I would need t do. Or is it really as simple as it looks? The passenger side inner and outer ball joints are already separated, I used a pickle fork. I would do the same to the driver side before I lower the support of course. The issue isn't that the bolts wont turn. Its that they were backed off to the last few rows of threads and completely seized. I believe do to all of the rust and corrosion on the ball joint threads itself.
Did the same thing on the driver side as well
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:20 PM   #36
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You need to unbolt the motor mounts (one nut each) and the steering rack has two bolts to remove allowing you to sway it out of the way. I also removed the steering guibo so I could inspect it. That was easy, only two small bolts.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:58 PM   #37
MJLavelle
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Originally Posted by Jond466 View Post
Is there anything other then supporting the engine with an engine lift and removing the four bolts in the support, that I would need t do. Or is it really as simple as it looks? The passenger side inner and outer ball joints are already separated, I used a pickle fork. I would do the same to the driver side before I lower the support of course. The issue isn't that the bolts wont turn. Its that they were backed off to the last few rows of threads and completely seized. I believe do to all of the rust and corrosion on the ball joint threads itself.
Did the same thing on the driver side as well
Here is a short DIY posted by the master of BMW upgrades and repairs, SLOtown, that shows how to do it.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=15

I think that those pics, along with the things described above (unbolting the motor mounts, etc) will get you there.

Last edited by MJLavelle; 04-01-2013 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:13 PM   #38
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Yep and in that same thread you'll see me doing it http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...8&postcount=56

Thanks to Scott (SLOtown), Stinger and the rest who pointed me in the right direction.
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