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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 06-17-2012, 08:31 PM   #21
thomn8r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraklas View Post
See my comments in Red
Part Number is:64 11 8 369 805
What would the part number be for a heater control valve for an E46 M3? All of the sources I've looked up say except for M3
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:13 AM   #22
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Maybe this?

Water hoses/water valve - BMW parts catalog

Best thing to put the last 7 numbers of your vin there and find the exact part
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:28 PM   #23
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I just finished mine. There were a couple of minor details that were different, probably because this is an M3 with HID's. The most significant - although it's not a big deal - is the HID ballast sits on top of the screws for the airbox, and the general layout of the airbox is different, but once you get past that it's pretty much identical. The burp/bleeder screw is in a different spot, too.

It looked like mine had been leaking at some point.

I took a picture of the old and new valve; it looks like the new one is a different rev.

I used a pair of 6" needle-nose vice grips, with duct tape on the jaws, to clamp off the hoses. I lost very little coolant, maybe a pint, tops.

This fixed my problem, and the a/c is once again cold.

The whole procedure took about an hour and a half, but I took my sweet time with it. If I'd flat-rated it I probably could have done it in 1/2 hour.

I owe paraklas a beer.

TLDR: M3 looks different, replacing the valve fixed the problem.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:24 AM   #24
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Does anyone know if the heater valve controls the amount of heat delivered to the car?
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:23 AM   #25
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Does anyone know if the heater valve controls the amount of heat delivered to the car?
In the simplest of terms, yes.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:54 AM   #26
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Thomn8r:

I wondered because I must put my heat at 78 deg (and 3 red dots) in order get heat, which shouldn't be the case. I'll make sure I don't have any air pockets in my coolant system then replace the heater valve if no improvement.

Thoughts?
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:56 AM   #27
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It is possible that the valve has failed in the closed position; mine failed in the open position.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #28
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How can I check to see if it failed (open or closed position)? Keep in mind, I do get heat, though (while on 78 deg.).
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:32 AM   #29
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hey

i replace the valve and its still doing the same if i clamp it the house it work fine so i did replace the valve worked for two sec and same thing again i took the valve out shoot power to it and the valve work put it back on and it dont work i checked the wire voltage and i get both side 12v i cant get it one should be - one + but the both wire on the connector that connects to the valve has 12V
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:51 AM   #30
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Replacing this valve is super easy if you've already got your cooling system apart. Might add 5-10 minutes to the job. Next cooling system overhaul, I'm spending a few extra bucks and throwing a new one in.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:56 AM   #31
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i replace the valve and its still doing the same if i clamp it the house it work fine so i did replace the valve worked for two sec and same thing again i took the valve out shoot power to it and the valve work put it back on and it dont work i checked the wire voltage and i get both side 12v i cant get it one should be - one + but the both wire on the connector that connects to the valve has 12V
So what you're saying is you replaced the valve, but the problem still exists? Did you replace it with a new one or ???
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:48 PM   #32
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Has anyone taken apart the old valve?
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:58 PM   #33
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Does anyone need a repalcment valve? I ordered a used one that was in excellent condition, and magically after it arrived, the one on my car started working again ....figures. In any event, I have a used one that is in excellent shape from an '06 m3.

PM me if you are interested

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Old 07-04-2013, 01:05 AM   #34
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Ok I've been looking at this thread because I'm having issues with my ac. Took her to get the ac system flushed and refilled with fresh freon and she's still the same so that's not the problem. When my ac is on the center vents are cool when the floor and windshield vents are closed. When everything is open the center vents are very cold but the floor and windshield vents are hot. Could this be that the valves stuck open?
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:51 PM   #35
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Re: DIY: Water (Heater) Valve Replacement

Replaced the water heater valve and bam! Very cold AC from all the vents! It looks like the flap was stuck open.
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:51 PM   #36
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Did this today. Thanks for the write-up!
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:30 PM   #37
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Did this DIY a few days ago. Sadly,it didn't seem to fix my AC issues. Really disappointed because this was a pretty easy DIY that I hoped would save me a lot of cash. Looks like I need to take it to a shop to figure this out.

My symptoms sounded exactly like what leads to this part as the fix. My AC issue is intermittant. I'll turn it on and for a few minutes (3-10) it works and blows very cold air out of all vents. Then, on it's own the air starts coming out warm even though the "snowflake AC" light is still on. If I wait a few more minutes and turn the AC on/off...I can eventually get it to blow cold again, but the pattern repeats.

The only possible difference I may be noticing after the part replacement is that when the AC "stops" working now the air coming through seems to match the outside air temp (which may be coolish or warm depending on the day)...instead of only warm as before (if I recall correctly).

Any ideas what might be the issue with my AC? I don;t think it's the freon because when it works it blows full cold from all vents. I don't know.

Maybe the AC belt clutch is engaging/disengaging improperly? The compressor itself? The control unit/button inside the car?

The car only has 44k miles on it :-(
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:18 AM   #38
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Look into the compressor, AC lines, and evaporator (also, possibly very low on R134A).
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:56 AM   #39
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OP

Did you ever take apart the old valve to see what failed? Results could be interesting.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:18 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomn8r View Post
I just finished mine. There were a couple of minor details that were different, probably because this is an M3 with HID's. The most significant - although it's not a big deal - is the HID ballast sits on top of the screws for the airbox, and the general layout of the airbox is different, but once you get past that it's pretty much identical. The burp/bleeder screw is in a different spot, too.
It looked like mine had been leaking at some point.
I took a picture of the old and new valve; it looks like the new one is a different rev.
This fixed my problem, and the a/c is once again cold.
TLDR: M3 looks different, replacing the valve fixed the problem.
the M3 version is different from the non-M ones. the M3 has a mini water pump for after-run cooling added to the Heater Valve unit. you can see the pump unit in the pictures of M3 vs. non-M. it could also have a leak from that source if someone just has leaking coolant as their issue.
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