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Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here! |
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ridgeland, MS
Posts: 5,345
My Ride: ZHP Custom Stage 3.5
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Dropped ZHP and now have some Thoughts/Issues...
Well, after I drop my car on EiBach Pro-Kit and Koni FSD. I have some issues and not sure were they are coming from...
I started to have pulsing problems after I Dropped it when the brakes are applied. It has Brand New OEM FCAB (only about 4k on mileage). New front Rotors and Pads. Steering Wheel is not tight anymore... When I hit a bump on the interstate or anything the steering wheel moves back and forth. Not as solid like it was before.I still have the problem of my car still going to the right... I have to hold my steering wheel straight or sometimes to the left to keep it going straight.Front Left and Right Camber are L -1.4 R -1.4 Front Left and Right Caster are L 5.2 R 5.3 Front Left and Right Toe are L 0.10 R 0.14 Front Total Toe 0.24 Front Steer Ahead -0.02 The Mechanic told me that my Front Toe cant be even/balance cause of windhead? Supposely it keep my steering wheel straight. Is this some BS? Rear Left and Right Camber are L -2.1 R -2.0 Rear Left and Right Toe are L 0.13 R 0.13 Rear Total Toe 0.26 Thrust Angle 0.00 I love the ride but not sure what causing all this problem...Wish I get it all worked out and enjoy my new car... Edit: So for it has Eibach Pro-Kit with Koni FSD Meyle HD RSM Rogue RTAB Limiters Front OEM FCAB (only 5k)
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..::|TrippinBimmer's Boost Build with Cool Parts|::.. 4**whp/3**tq SAE Corrected Last edited by TrippinBimmer; 10-23-2008 at 05:22 PM. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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you have a ZHP, why did you feel the need to drop it? why not leave it as is? modding a ZHP defeats the purpose of buying one in the first place since it's upgraded with a "performance package." it already comes modded from the factory. i'm not saying our cars are the "be all and end all" of the BMW lineup, which belongs to the Ms, but didn't you get a ZHP so you wouldn't have to mod...or mod as much?
with that said, i hope you get things fixed. doesn't sound like too much of a problem. i assume the shop did a wheel alignment after installing your new suspension? sounds like it might've been a subpar job causing an offset in the camber. this can easily happen if the wheel wasn't perfectly centered while the wheel alignment was performed. did you also install a camber kit? Caster and camber, being different from one side to the other, can make the car pull. For example, you are going perfectly straight on a flat road and you let go of the wheel and it pulls to one direction. However, if the camber is the same on both sides I would think it is more likely a tire, caster, or other issue. However, if the wheel has to be slightly turned to one direction or the other straight, but letting go of the wheel doesn't result in a pull, then the steering wheel simply isn't centered. It won't hurt anything, but it can be fixed by adjusting the toe. If, for example, one tire is toed in one half of a degree, and the other tire is toed out, the result is that it will actually track straight with the proper angles without pull. because of this, the steering wheel will be off centered slightly when going straight. try to take it back to the shop and get it realigned. Last edited by bouchet; 10-20-2008 at 12:48 PM. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto\Jupiter FL
Posts: 2,158
My Ride: has a 3.2L bag now
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^^^why NOT drop and improve handling even more?!? PLUS the fact that it looks 100 x's better dropped...
to the OP, I had the same problem when I dropped my old e46...I ended up replacing the control arms (MEYLE brand) and the bushings (POWERFLEX urethane) and problem was solved...
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#4 | |
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Quote:
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto\Jupiter FL
Posts: 2,158
My Ride: has a 3.2L bag now
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didnt i just say that?
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#6 |
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Registered User
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yeah, didn't you see me quote you? wow...let me get some of that purple you got, must be some good ****.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto\Jupiter FL
Posts: 2,158
My Ride: has a 3.2L bag now
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its grade A shlt^^^lol
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#8 |
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Registered User
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hahahahahahahaha
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#9 |
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Registered User
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^^^^^ Didn't the OP say he has almost new OEM FCABS?
On a serious note OP, those FCABS may not have tightened under torque, hence got damaged over time. Also, check your tie-rods and sway bar links.
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![]() Sapphire Black MetallicNatural BrownSilver Cube e46 330i ZHP/ZCW/6MT - Sold HellrotDove Grey e36 ///M3 - RIP Alpine WhiteTanSand High Gloss e46 330i SunRoofLess/5MT For Sale: $300 winter wheel/tire set (sport edition F7s and Dunlop graspics) For Rent: RTAB Removal/Installation and Preload Tools Last edited by SeanC; 10-20-2008 at 01:30 PM. |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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I like to reply to threads with 0 posts
Have a lighting problem? Read this first: Lighting-related Troubleshooting Guide |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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suspension issues are a PITA, good luck,
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ridgeland, MS
Posts: 5,345
My Ride: ZHP Custom Stage 3.5
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I bought the ZHP for the looks and the 10 extra HP... With 19's it looks like it was a 4x4. I know what was a ZHP when I bought the car. So does the alignment look correct? I will get the Mechanic at the Dealership to look at the Front FCAB and Control Arms. Any more opinions?
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..::|TrippinBimmer's Boost Build with Cool Parts|::.. 4**whp/3**tq SAE Corrected Last edited by TrippinBimmer; 10-20-2008 at 03:24 PM. |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ridgeland, MS
Posts: 5,345
My Ride: ZHP Custom Stage 3.5
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My car still at the Dealership (since Friday Morning at 7 am) and still haven't been worked on yet...
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..::|TrippinBimmer's Boost Build with Cool Parts|::.. 4**whp/3**tq SAE Corrected Last edited by TrippinBimmer; 10-22-2008 at 05:32 PM. |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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lol it's always like that at the dealership.
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I like to reply to threads with 0 posts
Have a lighting problem? Read this first: Lighting-related Troubleshooting Guide |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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When people remove the front struts alot of times they place a pry bar on the control arm to force it down so the strut can come out. This breaks the inner ball joint of the control arm. When the control arm is all the way down the only thing limiting this is the balljoint.
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