E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 10-26-2008, 01:30 AM   #1
George Hill
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2001 R1100S
Reparing M52TU cylinder head bolt threads

I have done extensive searching on the forum here for threads on the actual thread repair, but have had no luck.

My questions are does anyone have some real life experience performing this repair?

I found the jig kit from Baum tools but are there any other options?

Thanks, George
George Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 12-06-2008, 06:14 PM   #2
George Hill
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2001 R1100S
Well, I searched and searched and was unable to find firsthand experience of performing the repair. The update is that it works... at least so far.

Removed the cylinder head. Had it pressure chaecked and machined flat (removed .013"). BMW sells a head gasket that is .30mm than stock and .013" = .33mm. Bought the jig form Baum tools and sourced the timeserts kit and inserts locally. Removed the engine from the vehicle and performed the repair to the headbolt threads. Install repaired head with new gskt and bolts.

Vehicle has 70 miles on her so far, runs like a top.
George Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2008, 09:51 AM   #3
mrshelley
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 916
My Ride: 2004 330i
I did a repair in the car on one and bought heli coils from McMaster Carr. I made a jig (flatstock and a bushing I bought from McMaster Carr), drilled the holes with a hand drill and then installed the Heli Coils. If you buy 20mm long Heli Coils and stack them, it'll work fine.
__________________
mrshelley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2008, 10:12 AM   #4
aggieE46
Keep it clean
 
aggieE46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Royse City
Posts: 8,043
My Ride: 03 Evo, 07 Passat
Send a message via AIM to aggieE46
Sweet! Way to tackle it yourself. Hope it holds up for you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech482 View Post
Well, I searched and searched and was unable to find firsthand experience of performing the repair. The update is that it works... at least so far.

Removed the cylinder head. Had it pressure chaecked and machined flat (removed .013"). BMW sells a head gasket that is .30mm than stock and .013" = .33mm. Bought the jig form Baum tools and sourced the timeserts kit and inserts locally. Removed the engine from the vehicle and performed the repair to the headbolt threads. Install repaired head with new gskt and bolts.

Vehicle has 70 miles on her so far, runs like a top.
__________________
aggieE46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2008, 06:28 PM   #5
George Hill
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2001 R1100S
I used 25mm long timeserts. I'm not sure if I would trust a heli coil for this application. How many miles do you have since the repair?

Aggie, We will never know how long it would have held. Sat night I put it into a bridge support, cracking the block and the head.
George Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2008, 08:25 PM   #6
mrshelley
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 916
My Ride: 2004 330i
As for the repair, I did this back in early 2005 and the car is still driving around today. I haven't heard one complaint. Looks like to me, it held.

Also, I did this to one of my race engines and it held fine for a year until the oil pump chain broke and it sent a rod through the side of the block. Good thing is this, the Heli coils held up.
__________________
mrshelley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2008, 08:25 AM   #7
hoveringuy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 209
My Ride: e30
I did it 300 miles ago. Baum will sell you the 25mm inserts, I wouldn't use those.

Get the 30mm inserts direct from TimeSert.


Good to go so far.
hoveringuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2008, 04:03 PM   #8
dirtbiker245
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 366
My Ride: 00 323ci, 02 325i
Ive talked with alot of guys who have done head gasket replacements since I own the tools and let people use them when needed. Ive known two people to use the timeserts and their motors went back together perfectly fine with no problems yet to this day. Time serts definitely seem the way to go on these motors if you have a bolt that wont hold torque.
dirtbiker245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2008, 12:57 PM   #9
hoveringuy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 209
My Ride: e30
I knew of one guy up here in Seattle who used the Baum kit with those shorter inserts and they pulled.

Aluminum will anneal as it heats so if you totally roasted the motor you may have weakened the aluminum to the point that it's scrap. If you turned the motor off as soon as you saw the red light you are fine.

Just go with the 30mm inserts. My $.02.


Oh, and props to DirtBiker for my tool rental. He's got what you need!

www.seattlecircuit.com
hoveringuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2008, 05:59 PM   #10
George Hill
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2001 R1100S
For clarification the Baum tool does not come with any inserts anymore at least. The timesert kit comes with 10mm inserts, may have been what the guy up north used. When I got my timesert kit all I could find were 25mm or i would have used the longest I could.
George Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 06:27 PM   #11
wardpower
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 159
My Ride: 99' 328i Sedan
I have a leak between cylinders 5 and 6 and am thinking about doing the head gasket DIY myself and sending the head to a local machine shop. I turned my car off as soon as it went red and it only happened once so I don't think I roached the motor, I'm surprised I blew the head gasket at all. Should I order some inserts before I start tearing it apart? How to I test to see if they still hold torque? Is it likely that they'll still be good?
wardpower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 06:27 PM   #12
wardpower
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 159
My Ride: 99' 328i Sedan
Also forgot to ask in the last post, does the engine need to be pulled in order to do the rethread?
wardpower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 09:44 PM   #13
amdspitfire
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: CA
Posts: 100
My Ride: 328is, 330cic, 335i
Quote:
Originally Posted by wardpower View Post
I have a leak between cylinders 5 and 6 and am thinking about doing the head gasket DIY myself and sending the head to a local machine shop. I turned my car off as soon as it went red and it only happened once so I don't think I roached the motor, I'm surprised I blew the head gasket at all. Should I order some inserts before I start tearing it apart? How to I test to see if they still hold torque? Is it likely that they'll still be good?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wardpower View Post
Also forgot to ask in the last post, does the engine need to be pulled in order to do the rethread?
The first thing to do is to test the threads in the block with your existing head bolts. There is a sequence to loosen the bolts, find that and lose all the bolts. Then find the proper torque/angles to tighten the head bolts and see if you can reach the proper torque. My head bolts held fine to the last step when they would just give up. The threads in the block were no good on almost all of mine.

You can repair the block with it in the car, just have to remove the head. The actual repair work is not difficult at all. If you are going to do the repair you might as well do all threads.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I have the kit for sale as well if you are interested:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...810&highlight=
amdspitfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2011, 10:35 PM   #14
wardpower
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 159
My Ride: 99' 328i Sedan
Thanks for the info man, I may PM you about buying that.
wardpower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 03:23 PM   #15
wardpower
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 159
My Ride: 99' 328i Sedan
I heard the the threads in the block are 6mm deep. How do the kits work with this, is a 6mm deep counterbore drilled? Is it also done this way with the 30mm flush kit, or is the hole's diameter drilled out enough that the threads can be cut starting from the top?

I'm trying to figure out if I should buy the 24.5mm bmw kit, buy the 30mm flush kit, or get the standard m10x1.5 kit and buy inserts for it. Then if I got the standard metric m10x1.5 kit what size inserts would I be able to use on an M52TU engine block, as they make inserts up to 40mm long?
wardpower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2011, 03:02 PM   #16
tbgreen21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 3
My Ride: 1999 323I E46 M52
Drilling

The preoceedure can be completed without removing the engine. Of course it would be easier if the engine was removed and placed on a stand exactly level. If yo have to remove the engine for other reasons do the repair while its out. Reguardless of the location of the engine. Tape the block face with Duct or painting tape (minimize the sticky face) leave the bolt holes untaped. the Helicoil kit will dictate the drill bit size. Dont worry so much about the coil lengths, If you can get the long inserts then buy them (they can be shortened by snipping off some of the coils with a sharp pair of side cutters. After you get a NEW (not a old dull bit) drill bit (not provided in the kit) then use a triangle square to make sure you are drilling straight. You will be only drilling out the old threads. The original hole will guide the bit so you do not need to force it to go straight. The drilling is NOT done at High speed.

1. Position the drill and Drill slow and steady.
2. Clear the hole of material with air
3. Spray the re-threading bit with some type of oil ( I use a light lube oil spray) and insert it in the "T" handle, check it with a triangle square then slowly twist it into the hole to cut the threads. when it gets hard to turn clear the cuttings with air . If the bit seems it will not turn remove it and clear the hole and bit of shavings then insert it again and continue until the entire hole is threaded.
4. Clear the new threads with air
5. Position the coil on the coil threading tool and slowly twist the coil into the new threads. (no oil) a. (if using short coils remove the tang of the coil after each coil in inserted and clear it from the hole with air. (( done with a round flat tip punch NOT camphered)) continue inserting coils and removing the tangs until the hole is filled to 1/8 to 1/4 "" from the block surface)
6. Test the finished repair by hand threading an old head bolt( good condition) into the new threads

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT WITH A WRENCH at this time.

Inspect ALL the other head bolt threads with a flashlight , If any look like they are mashed, stretched, jagged, or damaged in any way do a repair NOW or waste $100.00 for another head gasket later.

RULE of THUMB if the engine was overheated and one(1) of the headbolts won't tighten, Then ALL the headbolts threads on the Exhaust side are weakened and may or may not tighten to spec's ( the exhaust side gets much hotter and will change the strength of the aluminum on that side first)

Finally after all holes needing repair are done remove the tape and spray a quick dry cleaner on the surface then wipe clean and blow dry with air.

You are now ready for the new head gasket !

I have some Picks of my last repair and I will try to post them to this thread.

Good Luck
tbgreen21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2011, 03:16 PM   #17
tbgreen21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 3
My Ride: 1999 323I E46 M52
Quote:
Originally Posted by amdspitfire View Post
The first thing to do is to test the threads in the block with your existing head bolts. There is a sequence to loosen the bolts, find that and lose all the bolts. Then find the proper torque/angles to tighten the head bolts and see if you can reach the proper torque. My head bolts held fine to the last step when they would just give up. The threads in the block were no good on almost all of mine.

You can repair the block with it in the car, just have to remove the head. The actual repair work is not difficult at all. If you are going to do the repair you might as well do all threads.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I have the kit for sale as well if you are interested:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...810&highlight=
Make sure you take the Head to a reputable shop to get at least three things tested and done;
1. Chemical clean ( no HOT TANK)
2. (two tests in one) Test for cracks. Pressure test for valve seal. ***The heads crack all the time into a water jacket channel and can not be repaired easily. If it is not cracked you are good to go to number 3 ****if cracked look for a replacement (repair not cost effective)
3. Straigness (no warp) resurface it to make to flat again. Record the amount shaved to see if an oversized head gasket is needed.

Treat the steel parts with a light oil if the head is to sit and wait around to be reinstalled

check my post on headbolt threads
tom

Last edited by tbgreen21; 04-28-2011 at 03:18 PM.
tbgreen21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2011, 02:31 PM   #18
tommytoyz
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Manhattan Beach
Posts: 151
My Ride: 1999 e46 323i
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbgreen21 View Post
Make sure you take the Head to a reputable shop to get at least three things tested and done;
1. Chemical clean ( no HOT TANK)
2. (two tests in one) Test for cracks. Pressure test for valve seal. ***The heads crack all the time into a water jacket channel and can not be repaired easily. If it is not cracked you are good to go to number 3 ****if cracked look for a replacement (repair not cost effective)
3. Straigness (no warp) resurface it to make to flat again. Record the amount shaved to see if an oversized head gasket is needed.

Treat the steel parts with a light oil if the head is to sit and wait around to be reinstalled

check my post on headbolt threads
tom
Where can one find a replacement head if it is cracked in a water jacket? How much do these usually run. Any special considerations when installing a replacement head? Many thanks, excellent thread...
tommytoyz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2011, 03:30 PM   #19
tbgreen21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 3
My Ride: 1999 323I E46 M52
replacement of cracked head

There are many locations to get another head. It depends where you live. I know a guy who went to LQK and got 3 different heads until he found one that was still good( not cracked) I recommend purchacing one from a company that has a waranty. Remember ***** If the head is removed from another car YOU MUST have it checked for Straightness!!!! ****** even if they say its good I would have a light resurface done. AS for the price I'm not sure. IT depends on the level of what is included with the head ( tapets, cams?)
For instalation, follow the instructions TO THE LETTER . and use the BMW special tools. ( rent them , borrow them ) if you don't use the special tool to isolate the ends of the two cams when you are setting the timing chain and cam chains you can BREAK the cams!!! (very bad). ALSO have someone help you when you lower the head onto the block to make sure the cam chain and guides are positioned properly and you dont put pressure onthe guides( only plastic they can break also) The head and exaust manifold are put together outside of the car, Then lowered together onto the block. The entire assembly is very heavy if you are man handling it and not using some sort of lift.
tbgreen21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2011, 06:52 PM   #20
wardpower
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 159
My Ride: 99' 328i Sedan
I just finished torquing down my head into time-serts and it held. Now I have two time sert kits to sell/rent. A standard BMW 30mm flush kit and a countersunk big-sert kit.
wardpower is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Censor is OFF





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use