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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 10-09-2012, 11:13 AM   #21
illestminimike
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:20 PM   #22
Chaz.T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevro View Post

Next, was the gas pedal TPS sensor. There are six leads and to be honest, I don't remember which ones I used, but along the first row of three pins, try two of those and if it reads 0, try the other two. Same with the second row of pins.

I was hoping to re-address this, I have tested my tps from the front of the motor and found it to be good.
The pedal has 6 pins kinda like this

. . .
. . .
1 2 3
if i connect pins 1 and 2 i get zero reading
if i connet pins 2 and 3 i get a reading of .48 ohms.
however it does not change at all when the gas pedal is pressed/depressed
I have two gas pedals and both of them respond the exact same way.

when checking pins on top row, assuming the same numbers, same thing on both pedals.

I really feel like I am doing it wrong. If there was no change at all, the car wouldn't have moved at all.
I assume when you tested you separated the top row from the bottom row? I have read there are actually two tps built into one sensor to give the cpu a better idea of actual readings vs bad readings?


the tps from the front of the motor tested EXACTLY as you described above and smoothly throughout the range.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
I am having a similar issue. I have checked all combinations of pins and either get an open circuit, 461 omhs or 58 ohms. And as with kevro, when the pedal is pressed i get no change in resistance... Anyone else have better luck? Or is my pedal just junk?
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:04 AM   #23
a4x4iwi
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It looks like they use Hall sensors, not potentiometers.

These are a non contact mechanism using a magnet and a sensor that detect magnetic field. They offer high reliability.

See http://www.ge39.com/files/m54x5.pdf

Testing would need to be with the ignition in the run position using a volt meter.

Page 11_nr_
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Old 08-10-2013, 12:45 PM   #24
striker66
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Sensor can be tested while REMOVED from vehicle

This thread was helpful to me, but it was apparent from reading that there is some confusion about how to test the throttle postion sensor, namely whether it should be done in the vehicle or with the device removed.

This morning I removed the sensor which is located immediately next to the oil filter cap. I can echo a previous poster's comments that you need to use proper tools here. The two phillips headed screws which attach the sensor are not hardened and unless you have a tool which properly fits the screw heads you run a serious risk of stripping them. I used a right angled socket set with a very short philips driver in it, but even with this I found that I couldn't put enough sideways pressure on the lower screw to avoid some obvious slipping of the driver. I stopped, pondered for a moment how to proceed and eventually found that a large crowbar with the flat end turned sideways gave me a perfect lever to wedge against the engine hoist loop (I think that's what it was anyway) and the backside of my socket driver. With alot of force pushing the driver into the head I was just barely able to break the screw loose and it started turning.

Enough of the warnings ;-) The purpose of my post is to make clear to future readers that this particular sensor is essentially a variable resistor and should be tested outside of the vehicle with a multimeter set to resistance readings. I found it tricky to get the multimeter clips attached to the sensor connector because the tabs are recessed. I ended up modifying some crimp-style electrical connectors which have male and female sides. I cut the female side in half and then was able to slip it over a tab and effectively extend it so that it was easy to attach. After doing this on both tabs (I used an outside and the center tab) and then putting a wide flathead screwdriver into the rotating socket, I was able to (unfortunately) observe resistance changing from about 1.1 ohms up to about 4.9 ohms ( approximately, I didn't write these down) with no glitches. Of course this test isn't perfect, but it convinced me sufficiently that this sensor is likely working as designed.

Now I'm off to search for how to locate the next most likely sensor, either the one on the pedal or the one under the intake manifold!
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:14 AM   #25
fayraree
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thanks for all the info on this thread and for ^^ your update with the warnings and attempt to measure the sensor with the multimeter. I want to DIY this and I think I'll just be replacing the sensor without the test. I'm about to head out on a 500 mile road trip, my code scanner said sensor "A" so I have no clue which sensor that refers to (code P0121). If there's a way to use my OBD2 scanner with some software on my laptop to diagnose the issue without a multimeter, etc. that would be awesome.

It'll be hard to get at the other two sensors, and I already have the TPS part from Tischer so I'm thinking I'll just replace the one next to the oil filter and hope for the best, lol.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:55 PM   #26
woahwoah
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oops....

so when I was taking off the tps sensor next to the oil filter housing I pulled off the tps sensor and the ring fell off and fell into the engine compartment and I cant find it..... I called my local bmw dealership and they cant find the part that i'm talking about and its not on the diagram : ( anybody know the part number for that or am I s.o.l.???
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:42 PM   #27
meccanoble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by striker66 View Post
This thread was helpful to me, but it was apparent from reading that there is some confusion about how to test the throttle postion sensor, namely whether it should be done in the vehicle or with the device removed.

This morning I removed the sensor which is located immediately next to the oil filter cap. I can echo a previous poster's comments that you need to use proper tools here. The two phillips headed screws which attach the sensor are not hardened and unless you have a tool which properly fits the screw heads you run a serious risk of stripping them. I used a right angled socket set with a very short philips driver in it, but even with this I found that I couldn't put enough sideways pressure on the lower screw to avoid some obvious slipping of the driver. I stopped, pondered for a moment how to proceed and eventually found that a large crowbar with the flat end turned sideways gave me a perfect lever to wedge against the engine hoist loop (I think that's what it was anyway) and the backside of my socket driver. With alot of force pushing the driver into the head I was just barely able to break the screw loose and it started turning.

Enough of the warnings ;-) The purpose of my post is to make clear to future readers that this particular sensor is essentially a variable resistor and should be tested outside of the vehicle with a multimeter set to resistance readings. I found it tricky to get the multimeter clips attached to the sensor connector because the tabs are recessed. I ended up modifying some crimp-style electrical connectors which have male and female sides. I cut the female side in half and then was able to slip it over a tab and effectively extend it so that it was easy to attach. After doing this on both tabs (I used an outside and the center tab) and then putting a wide flathead screwdriver into the rotating socket, I was able to (unfortunately) observe resistance changing from about 1.1 ohms up to about 4.9 ohms ( approximately, I didn't write these down) with no glitches. Of course this test isn't perfect, but it convinced me sufficiently that this sensor is likely working as designed.

Now I'm off to search for how to locate the next most likely sensor, either the one on the pedal or the one under the intake manifold!
This was very helpful. I tested perfectly and did not strip the bolt thankfully! But my measurements did not jump. They were pretty consistent with no dead spots but the range was from 0.92 - 5.48. Would this mean the TPS is bad? I have similar symptoms as others. Go into limp mode ever so often. I'm going after the pedal next but still have to confirm best way to test.
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Old 01-25-2014, 01:06 PM   #28
dbrumfield
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P0121/p0221

Similar issues. Ist got P1637 Throttle Valve Position Control - Control Deviation; checked TPS at oil filter - ohms right, smooth range & no spikes. Now getting P0121 & P0221, which spell out Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A (& B) Circuit Range/Perfprmance. Will try to remove pedal & check resistance. Questions: (1) Do these 2 codes point only to accelerator pedal as it reads like they do? (2) Threads unclear on how to check out the pedal - guidance on doing so? Also, if problem were the throttle actuator sensor (under intake manifold), is that a different code? What is it? Thx.
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:52 AM   #29
m3-4aj
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can someone provide the part # for the Gas pedal sensor?
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:23 PM   #30
dbrumfield
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Gas pedal part # 35426786282, $114.34 online from getbmwparts.com. BTW, I also changed throttle valve switch (position sensor) at oil filter, 13637840383, $80.98, & it took care of the problem. No more limp mode!! I just wanted it fixed & I don't know which one fixed it, but preferred to try the 2 easier ones at once. Also, I broke the white plastic holder for the gas pedal & had to drill & screw it down. Good luck!
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:23 PM   #31
KSK
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BUMP!

I checked the pedal sensor and getting reading of ZERO ohms with no change as the pedal is pressed. Is this a sure sign the pedal needs to be changed? I ordered a new one regardless but curious since my problems only occur when the engine is hot (ie. after 20mins of driving)
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