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Old 11-02-2008, 10:01 PM   #1
330ciEvo
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!!help install gone bad!!...video enclosed

I am trying to install my system and I am getting stuck and feel like my car is going to go up in flames. as soon as I connect my remote wire all the lights in the car start to flicker and I can hear this noise that sounds like a taser. I am hooking the remote wire up to the white wire that goes into the amp next to the factory sub. As soon as I do this everything goes crazy the light on my amp flickers, and I can feel the pulsating electricity go through my monster cable...

HELP! That tapping noise is coming from the monster cable and amp
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:08 PM   #2
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Jumper your remote wire and report back.

good chance that's the wrong remote signal...to test this, use a wire to jumper the power and remote at the amp. the remote terminal on the amp wants to see a +12v signal, so by jumering to the "+" on the amp, it should turn on.


make sure to check your ground. it should go to the car body, not the battery. two, make sure your power cable is thick enough...
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:14 PM   #3
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Thankls for the quick response, my power cable is a 6 guage rated for 1200 watts. The amp is a MTX Thunder 8001TC rated at 800 watts. Ground is also 6 guage.

The ground is not actually on the battery, it is on the post that the battery is grounded to on the car (kinda didnt explain that good enough.

I am still confused on the jumper part. Could you put it in idiot terms for me?

Are you saying connect the remote to the battery?
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Old 11-03-2008, 04:37 AM   #4
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Lol did you preview your video before uping it? You realize its absolutely no help at all right? Jumping your remote wire means putting one end of the wire in the + terminal on your amp and the other end in the remote terminal on your amp. I would use the remote turn on wire (also white) that goes into the amp on the left side of the trunk and comes directly from the radio. Also dont forget to run a fuse in-line on your power cable.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:09 PM   #5
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ok I jump the remote wire and blew the 80 amp fuse on my power cable, when i jumped it, it sparked my interior lights flickered and so did the light on the amp. As a result I blew the 80 amp fuse on the positive wire going to the amp to the battery
heres a pic of the fuse and another crappy video
My power cable and ground is rated for 1200 watts, 680 rms


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Old 11-03-2008, 07:08 PM   #6
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help! on the other side of my amp there is an outlet that says remote gain? do I need to do something with this?
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:23 PM   #7
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help! on the other side of my amp there is an outlet that says remote gain? do I need to do something with this?
if it looks like something plugs in there, like a telephone plug, then it's probably just a remote gain control for controlling the volume of the amp. nuffin' to do with the remote turn-on lead.
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:30 PM   #8
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I am trying to install my system and I am getting stuck and feel like my car is going to go up in flames. as soon as I connect my remote wire all the lights in the car start to flicker and I can hear this noise that sounds like a taser. I am hooking the remote wire up to the white wire that goes into the amp next to the factory sub. As soon as I do this everything goes crazy the light on my amp flickers, and I can feel the pulsating electricity go through my monster cable...

HELP! That tapping noise is coming from the monster cable and amp
You obviously have a short somewhere, in which case i'd suggest that you stop touching the wires together before you damage something. Also you should be doing that where you have more light, and probably during the day so you can see what you're doing. I can't tell anything at all from the videos.

When you have more light, look at the harness where you connected your line-level convertor (i'm assuming you're using the stock radio, amp, etc and just adding a 2nd amp) check to see if you didn't accidently cut some other wires when splicing it together.
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:31 PM   #9
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i just ran a straight piece of monster cable from the battery to the amp, I changed the ground to another spot on the frame and ended up blowing one of the 30 amp fuses on the amp..... the amp is not getting a steady flow maybe?
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:35 PM   #10
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You obviously have a short somewhere, in which case i'd suggest that you stop touching the wires together before you damage something. Also you should be doing that where you have more light, and probably during the day so you can see what you're doing. I can't tell anything at all from the videos.

When you have more light, look at the harness where you connected your line-level convertor (i'm assuming you're using the stock radio, amp, etc and just adding a 2nd amp) check to see if you didn't accidently cut some other wires when splicing it together.
I havent even gotten to the point where I splice into the factory amp?? I only have three wires so far...positive from battery to amp, ground from car to amp, and the remote, which I am trying to jumper to the positive cable..It should just go on steady?


could it be a short inside my amp?
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:45 PM   #11
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if you jump from the B+ then yes it should be on steady. If it's not, then take the amp back to where you got it.
what remote are you using if you haven't spliced into the harness from the radio into the factory amp to tap into the remote lead?
if you can return your amp, you may want to go with a different brand, no offense to MTX but the country their products are made in, isn't exactly well known for electronics as Japan is for instance.
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:26 PM   #12
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if you jump from the B+ then yes it should be on steady. If it's not, then take the amp back to where you got it.
what remote are you using if you haven't spliced into the harness from the radio into the factory amp to tap into the remote lead?
if you can return your amp, you may want to go with a different brand, no offense to MTX but the country their products are made in, isn't exactly well known for electronics as Japan is for instance.
i was right it was a short in the amp
yeah I know now, is their any way I can fix this though??

I found my problem





is their any way i can re solder this?
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:51 PM   #13
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more pics..

this is a 800 dollar amp by the way :-(
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:20 PM   #14
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nope, that fett it blown! take it back and tell 'em that it didn't work, get ur money back,...u can't fix it without a new fett and a soldering iron. it's really about a $2 part, but knowing which one and getting it is the problem, and on top of that, you have to know why it blew in the 1st place, otherwise it'll probably just do it again if it wasn't just a defective fett. i used to build amps for rockford fosgate actually.

if i were you i'd put it back together and take it back, probably wouldn't tell them you opened it, just tell them it didn't work
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:25 PM   #15
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when you hear of ppl talking about Mosfets in an amp, that's what they're talking about. might be hard to find that exact replacement, but if you did, and had a solding iron, it could be replaced in a few secs. if you took that board completely off the heatsink though, make sure it has enough of that while goop (Thermal) in there... it helps transfer heat from the board to the heatsink.
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:30 PM   #16
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if you can't send it back, see if you can read what is says on it and buy a replacement, if there's enough of it left. most likely it'll be the same as some of the other ones on the board.
see if you can read that number on the circuit board right in front of it. if it's the same as the others

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Old 11-03-2008, 10:05 PM   #17
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if you can't send it back, see if you can read what is says on it and buy a replacement, if there's enough of it left. most likely it'll be the same as some of the other ones on the board.
see if you can read that number on the circuit board right in front of it. if it's the same as the others

Ok, I cant take the amp back because I broke the seal!!

What I am gonna do is try and get the fett and replace it.
my guess is my power cord is what did it. I was using cords rated at 680 rms for an 800 rms amp...mabe thats what fried the fet?

I'm guessing that flickering was the amp going into protective mode??
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Old 11-04-2008, 05:37 AM   #18
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i would probably use atleast 4guage power cord, but i highly doubt that would blow a mosfet. especially since you didn't have a signal going through it, so it didn't have anything to amplify to even put out 800watts... it wasn't doing anything but trying to turn on. i would say the amp was defective when you got it. protective mode would simply turn it off, not flicker.

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Ok, I cant take the amp back because I broke the seal!!

What I am gonna do is try and get the fett and replace it.
my guess is my power cord is what did it. I was using cords rated at 680 rms for an 800 rms amp...mabe thats what fried the fet?

I'm guessing that flickering was the amp going into protective mode??
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Old 11-04-2008, 08:13 AM   #19
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Where did you buy it from? They might be cool about it.

I'd be careful about replacing the part. You have to know the exact model number for the MOSFET that MTX used. Then you can get a new one from www.mouser.com. But you are probably better off just paying to get it fixed.

You paid $800 for that amp? That seems like WAAAAYYYY too much for an 800 watt MTX amp.
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Old 11-04-2008, 08:26 AM   #20
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6 gauge?!?! Pretty odd...but yeah as I was reading thru the posts it sounded like a bad amp. And $800 is ridiculous! There are a million better amps out there for $800!!! Get it fixed and ebay it, then go buy a better amp for less!
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