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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-07-2011, 12:54 PM   #341
karatechop5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrientBlau View Post
Even a failing CCV can blow out your new VCG.
This is useful information. Yes... I agree. The choice of sealant should only matter in the longer term. Have you seen this happen? Are there other symptoms?
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:56 AM   #342
Rubenk
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I used the grey rubber sealant on my VCG last weekend. Only time will tell if it was the right stuff ot use, but it is holding up so far!

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...t_Dressing.htm
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:50 AM   #343
M325er22
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I did this and my vanos today! Not a hard thing to do, but very tedious!

Yay no sludge! Thats how it looked when i pulled it off.

Sent from my LG-P509 using Bimmer
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:55 PM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkodama View Post
Finally got around to changing my old leaky valve cover gasket. Really easy to do, just time consuming. Didn't quite finish today since I ran out of time. And yes, I know the engine bay is dirty, it's gonna get cleaned up once the car is painted and out of this shop.


Removing the cabin micro-filter:

Twist the three knobs 90 degrees counter clockwise and they will pop up. Lift the cover up and out.


Remove the micro-filter, it is just sitting there.


Undo the 4 gold torx bolt and 4 plastic wire harness clips. The torx bots use a T30 torx bit.


With the wire harness clips undone the lower part of the wire holder comes off. Pull the wires down out of the holder. Lift the micro-filter tray up and towards the front of the car.


With micro-filter and housing removed.


Removing Cosmetic Engine Covers:

Pry out the bolt/nut covers using a flat head screwdriver.


Remove the oil cap and undo the two 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts and remove the cosmetic engine covers.


Removing Ignition Coils and Harness:

Slide the metal clip of the ignition coils using your fingers, and then pull the electrical connector out of each coil.


Remove the 12 10mm bolts holding down the ignition coils. Then just pull each coil out and set them aside.


Undo the small brown grounding wire and move the ignition wiring harness over to the side and out of the way.


Engine with coils removed and ignition wiring out of the way.


Removing Wiring Attached to Valve Cover:

Remove the wires and tubes from the metal clips.


Remove the two 8mm bolts and grounding straps.



Removing Crankcase Vent Tube:

Squeeze the top and bottom of the crankcase vent tube and pull off the valve cover.



Removing the Valve Cover:

Remove all 15 nuts along with washer and seal.


This is what happens if you repeatedly start up your car, drive it 50 feet, and then turn it off before the car warms up. Condensation mixes with the oil and you get this kinda oily foamy mixture. I suggest you clean your valve cover, remove the old gaskets, and then put in the new



No sludge, so I'm happy.


This is where my leak was.


Happy looking camshaft lobes. Not bad after 74,000 miles.


Assembly is reverse of disassembly. Also make sure you don't clamp any wires underneath the valve cover during reassembly like what I did. And don't over-tighten the valve cover bolts.
How did you tighten your valve cover bolts, with what kind and what size wrench. Thanks so much,
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:24 PM   #345
Asstaztic
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2003 330i ( Parts:: valve cover gasket and gourmets, oil filter housing gasket) is this mean that my head gasket is blowned? Can someone pls tell! i just bought this car no too long ago and i already have problem..
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:39 PM   #346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfyman View Post
How did you tighten your valve cover bolts, with what kind and what size wrench. Thanks so much,
You have two options, both with their benefits. In both cases, make sure to tighten everything together to evenly compress the gasket.

-Either you tighten by hand, and you will feel the rubber compress, and then at a certain point, it will become much harder to turn when the nut bottoms out. Stop there.

-Or you will need a very low value torque wrench that goes down to 9 or 10 newton meters.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:40 PM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asstaztic View Post
2003 330i ( Parts:: valve cover gasket and gourmets, oil filter housing gasket) is this mean that my head gasket is blowned? Can someone pls tell! i just bought this car no too long ago and i already have problem..
What is the question? I can't really understand your english.
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asstaztic View Post
2003 330i ( Parts:: valve cover gasket and gourmets, oil filter housing gasket) is this mean that my head gasket is blowned? Can someone pls tell! i just bought this car no too long ago and i already have problem..
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:47 AM   #349
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Originally Posted by flashtwosix View Post
same thing happened to me because of the STUPID BENTLEY manual gave conflicting torque spec. In one section it said "18ft/lbs" (this section was what I happened to read) and in other section it said 8ft/lbs.

thank god my local dealer had the studs ($0.32) so I ordered some.

here are my pix:


I too went torque happy yesterday , these studs are VERY soft!

Question for the ones that have had broken studs, can you replace it with the valve cover on, or you have to take it off again? Either my socket is too fat or something because it doesn't grab the stud with the cover on. Is it a 10mm right?
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:52 PM   #350
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Guys,

Just completed a gasket change on my 2002 330Cic with 166000 miles.
Ordered the gasket from Bavarian auto. The forum provided excellent guidance.

After bolting it all together, have a leak at the rear bolt. I've tightened it as much as I dare.. More than the other dry bolts... I'm at a loss for the reason for the leak.

Interesting point. As you all know, the gasket slides into a slot in the valve cover. When I inserted the replacement gasket into the slot, the rubber was a little (3mm) taller than the slot. This led to the gasket not sitting against the flat portion of the valve cover. Is this normal? I hope you can picture what I'm trying to describe. I'm wondering if this could be the cause of the leak.

I've read some guys had leaks from other than genuine BMW parts.
What do you all think... Whats my next move?
Thanks Dan
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:06 AM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpevita View Post
Guys,

Just completed a gasket change on my 2002 330Cic with 166000 miles.
Ordered the gasket from Bavarian auto. The forum provided excellent guidance.

After bolting it all together, have a leak at the rear bolt. I've tightened it as much as I dare.. More than the other dry bolts... I'm at a loss for the reason for the leak.

Interesting point. As you all know, the gasket slides into a slot in the valve cover. When I inserted the replacement gasket into the slot, the rubber was a little (3mm) taller than the slot. This led to the gasket not sitting against the flat portion of the valve cover. Is this normal? I hope you can picture what I'm trying to describe. I'm wondering if this could be the cause of the leak.

I've read some guys had leaks from other than genuine BMW parts.
What do you all think... Whats my next move?
Thanks Dan
Are you positive you didn't tighten down the valve cover on one of the vacuum hoses that go around the back of the valve cover?
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:13 PM   #352
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Hi all, quick question: My valve cover gasket just started leaking in my 06 330ci ZHP (84k mi), and I've heard that not only is this from a deteriorating gasket, but also from a malfunctioning crankcase ventilation valve, which makes the head un-breathable and results in high pressure, blowing out the valve cover gasket. I've dug around a little and BavAuto suggests popping out the crankcase vent hose on the head and if there's white sludge, and if so, then the CVV should be replaced. What i'm wondering though, is if there's any other signs that should determine if the CVV is malfunctioning? should all just be replaced? seems like its also good measure to change the VANOS seals since the valve cover is off too; but is this going overboard? seems like I either spend 50 bucks for just the gasket, or $330 for parts that i'm not even sure I should replace. On the other hand, I don't want to be doing all this again if the VANOS seals do end up going in a couple years, and again if the CVV is broken and I end up blowing another gasket again. Any insight would be helpful! thanks!
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:04 PM   #353
mach.schnell
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Originally Posted by NickdZHP View Post
On the other hand, I don't want to be doing all this again if the VANOS seals do end up going in a couple years, and again if the CVV is broken and I end up blowing another gasket again. Any insight would be helpful! thanks!
Your VANOS seals are already gone.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=524336

Read this and let me know if I'm wrong.


Mach
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:14 AM   #354
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Thanks for the link. I ordered new VANOS seals last week when ordering a new CCV and valve cover gasket. My car definitely has been idling like **** in these cold new england mornings and night. Hopefully this will address the issue, if not then its onto a DISA rebuild kit from German Auto solutions!
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:20 PM   #355
Buck Henry
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Kudos to the OP for a great DIY write up. Just finished replacing my VCG and it was an easy job thanks to the great instructions provided in this thread. No surprises when doing the job and so far no more leaks!
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:25 PM   #356
hoppyE46
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dinner break, need a tech assist…

check out the attached, missing gasket… hard as plastic, some pieces broke off during cover removal.
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Two pieces fell out of reach down the circled hole, i'm assuming drain to the sump?

a third dropped next to the spring (in shadow, but arrow pointing to it)
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should i be concerned? can't do much about it and plan to start buttoning everything up…

please advise.

overall, looks pretty clean, no?
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:58 PM   #357
NickdZHP
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I would try my best to get that out, you never know if it will cause any problems in the future. maybe some long needle nose pliers, or a hook made from some wire will do the trick
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:53 PM   #358
hoppyE46
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well, those pieces that went down the hole were out of reach, others were found some removed some not…

runs fine… gotta figure that stuff may break off during normal op with how brittle it had become…

so no issues with the work done, no SES for nearly 80 miles , then Peake Table 19 Code 44 reappeared . I had hoped this code was a result of the quick disconnect not being fully engaged, which I found during disassembly.

gonna TS the valve, but I'm thinking it too will have to be replaced.

thank you thank you for this DIY!
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:12 AM   #359
Andrewdm10
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Hi Guys,

Once again this forum has proved fantastic.
Just did the VCG and Oil/Plugs/Filters on my 02 330ci Coupe M54.

One thing i noticed when i did the VCG was the condition of the engine didn't seem that great condition internally.

I've attached photos below.

The Vanos area is Black and Dark brown. I have not seen any others look like this?? It looks really strange.
Is this something to be concerned about?

There was also a build up of sludge on the plastic black housing with loose grit on it.
I left it as it was as i didn't want to dis-lodge anything and intern have loose grit flying in the engine.

Motor & car has 140,000 kms
Apart from a rough cold start, it drives perfect now.

Can anyone shed anymore light in reference to my pictures?

Thank you.
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Last edited by Andrewdm10; 01-10-2014 at 04:15 AM.
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:58 AM   #360
Frank_E46
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First of all, thanks to the OP--old thread BUT good thread!

I have a 2004 325ci @ 122,000 miles and thought it would be a good idea to finally do this DIY because of the smell of burnt oil (should of done this sooner).

The VCG was harden solid plastic--so, if you haven't done this DIY in my opinion the sooner the better to prevent from having to deal with the harden VCG gasket.

During the DIY, had to use a blanket to prevent pieces from falling into the engine and carefully remove the fused gasket from the mating surfaces. Here are some PIX:





Once again...thanks OP...!
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