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Old 11-25-2008, 07:50 AM   #41
lrogers80
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That coupler on the throttle body blew off before and the idle went up and down, but I fixed this. I made sure it was completely on the throttle body lip and tightened it well.

I had a friend rev the engine while my hand was on the coupler to feel if boost was leaking from that area and it wasn't. The pressure on the coupler felt tight as the boost went into the engine. It's getting into the engine but must be getting lost inside somewhere.

Maybe the EGR valve? I check the CCV Valve that I plugged up and no air is coming out of it. Also, wouldn't I smell the fumes if it was blowing out of the engine like I did when I disconnected the coupler from the throttle body?
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:55 AM   #42
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That isn't possible. If boosted air is making it into the intake manifold, you have boost. It has nothing to do with the motor not recognizing boost, or the throttle body not accepting it. If you're making boost, which you are, you either have a leak upstream of the throttle body, or a blockage along the way. If all you did was bypass the intercooler and now you have boost, you have a problem with the intercooler. It needs to be pressure checked.
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:16 AM   #43
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Yes, I did bypass the intercooler, but the only reason for doing this was to connect the boost gauge in that area. This told me that my charger is giving me 8 psi. I didn't want to put a hole in the intercooler.

If I am leaking from the intake manifold some where what would it be? EGR/CCV?
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:09 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by docwyte View Post
That isn't possible. If boosted air is making it into the intake manifold, you have boost. .
yes. this is correct. you are either making boost or you are not. i am convinced that you have blown a boost hose somewhere. the fact that you cant feel it means nothing. im not even sure how you attempted to get your hands into the inner boost piping with the plumbing in place


the fact that your plumbing is sealed under vac and leaking under boost rules out everything except a boost leak and a broken compressor.

since we know you are getting boost out of the compressor, its being lost before it gets to the throttle body.
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:11 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by lrogers80 View Post

If I am leaking from the intake manifold some where what would it be? EGR/CCV?
whats more likely? that one of the custom rigged bolt on boost lines is leaking, or a factory installed and sealed intake manifold!!!!!


you are looking for a complicated answer , when the reality is that it is a simple answer with a little amount of muscle work required to fix it. computers dont lie. including the sending unit for your boost guage. if your boost guage shows boost without the IC, and no boost with the IC. then your IC is leaking


p.s. i dont understand what you mean when you say "i bypassed the IC to put the boost guage there" you can get a boost reading from any part of your vac lines, including but not limited to the ones that go to your bp valves

Last edited by redronin; 11-25-2008 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:06 PM   #46
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I agree. You bypassed the intercooler and show boost. With the intercooler in place, you have no boost. Ergo, the intercooler is leaking, or a connection to the intercooler is leaking. Go get the intercooler pressure tested, that's your problem.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:51 PM   #47
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OK New PVC pipe installed without taping into for Boost gauge. The boost gauge is now connected to a t connector on the bypass valve. The car feels strong, but still will not go pass 0 on the gauge. This is a new boost gauge.

I'm going to buy an air compressor from home depot and my friend is on his way with his smoke machine. We are going to smoke the daylights out of this car.

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Old 11-25-2008, 09:14 PM   #48
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You're making boost. You've already confirmed this. You need to stop changing so many things at once. Something is obviously wrong about the way you have your boost gauge plumbed if everything else is the same.

You won't make boost just revving the car sitting still. The motor needs be under load, ie, you need to be driving down the street with the gas pedal floored.
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Old 11-26-2008, 04:52 AM   #49
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Ok the smoke test went well. We found a leak at the rear of the intake manifold. There's a nipple that was not capped, I guess some how it got removed. I connected the boost gauge to this port instead of the bypass valve. Took it for a spin and still no boost, car feels normal still.

I disconnected the hose that's connected to the bypass valve and capped the end of the valve, It seems like the valve is opening when the car is getting ready to go into boost letting all the pressure out before the car can even see or make boost. The cap popped off when I took it for a spin because of all the pressure coming out of that valve.

Does this sound possible? I know the bypass valve has an 8psi spring in it and should open when boost levels hit 8 pounds, could it be opening before 8psi and letting the boost out and back into the compressor intake side?

When I rev the car standing still at 4k RPM the valves does open and lets all the air out. should it not hold it at 4k RPM?

Last edited by lrogers80; 11-26-2008 at 04:54 AM. Reason: added more text
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:17 AM   #50
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This tool is amazingClick image for larger version

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Old 11-26-2008, 06:14 AM   #51
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I really don't think I have a leak, simple because the gauge it going up towards the boost levels under load, but just never seems passes 0. I bet the bypass valve is my culprit, or some valve.
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:05 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by lrogers80 View Post
I really don't think I have a leak, simple because the gauge it going up towards the boost levels under load, but just never seems passes 0. I bet the bypass valve is my culprit, or some valve.
bypass valves are incredibly simple and should not fail until they are noticeably in **** condition. take the valve off and manupulate the valv with your finger. If its rusty maybe get an aluminum bpv. those bosch ones work, but they seem to be crap material wise



i will agree with the poster above me that you are getting to crazy right now. Smoke test all you want but your boost leak is due to a loose connection which will hold under all but the hardest of loads (ie running boost!)


the reason im so sure is it happened to me and 500 dollars later i had a mechanic tell me what i could have found out myself if i wasnt so burned from the install


now at the beggining of this thread i was 99% sure. Im slightly less sure now only because if you have been running at no boost with a pressure regulator, you should have blown codes and thrown into limp mode by now, if you are really dropping the gas pedal


do you use remapped ecu? this could conceivably "realize" its not getting enough and compensate to prevent codes, not ssure.
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:47 AM   #53
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ok i just checked out the pics of how you bypassed the IC with pbc pipe, didnt totally understand what you were doin at first


if you make boost on the boost guage like the pic above, with the entire system in place with the exception of the FMIC..... but you make zero boost with the fmic in place....there is NO other explaination, your leak must be in the fmic seal. most likely the welds on the sidewall, or possibly a small stone or animal got shot through while driving? is the sc a used kit? send that ic back and get a new one. You look pretty handy, id just get a big old generic one and weld it in place, you probably save a bundle, as venders will rear-rape you selling "kit specific" parts


p.s. ill take one of those leakmaster machines please. any idea what those cost?
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:00 AM   #54
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Once again, take the intercooler to a radiator shop and have them pressure test it. The bosch bypass valves work all damn day. They're cheap and at the boost levels you're running last forever. You don't have a valve problem.
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:26 AM   #55
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The intercooler is fine. The only reason I removed the Intercooler was so I could drill a hole into the pipe and read the boost pressure from the Charger just to make sure it was pushing that amount of air and that my charger was fine.

I spoke with AA and they think I might have a problem with the throttle body. On the 323i The cable is used to adjust the sensor that controls the motor in the throttle body so it can open and close the throttle. It may not be opening up properly therefore creating pressure and forces the bypass valve to open releasing the boost.

I need a throttle body to test now, which arenít cheap. $200 used.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:02 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by lrogers80 View Post
The intercooler is fine. The only reason I removed the Intercooler was so I could drill a hole into the pipe and read the boost pressure from the Charger just to make sure it was pushing that amount of air and that my charger was fine.
.
so i am to understand that when you remove the IC you have boost, and when the IC is in place you show zero boost above atmospheric pressure
Quote:
I connected the boost gauge to the pvc pipe. In place of the intercooler. Picture below and the gauges does show boost when I get up to 3k RPM
so let me get this right. the blatant fact that swapping out the IC changes everything does not indicate to you that there is anything wrong with the IC. "there is nothing wrong with the ic" even tho everything works as it should simply by removing the ic


and furthermore, you think it is far more likely that a throttle body which has worked perfectly on your car for the past 8 years is at fault, instead of the kit which you just installed......


i think ive basically said everything i can say at this point, you have to choose to heed our advice or not. sounds like not. good luck getting the situation figured out, but id redo the entire install from scratch before buying a throttle body. ive never heard of a throttle body failing on an e46, and i dunno about drive by wire cars but throttle bodies usually have 1 moving part. theres no half working, either it works or it doesnt

Last edited by redronin; 11-26-2008 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:24 PM   #57
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Sorry to be so confusing. This is really fustrating for me and I'm not getting any sleep over this.



Boost Pressure:
I could have tested the boost with the intercooler in place but I would have had to put a hole into the pretty inter cooler. So I decided to get a PVC pipe to put the hole in it and test the boost. Now, this boost is the boost from the Supercharger output, not the intake manifold.

No Boost Pressure:
When the boost gauge is connected to the intake manifold vacuum source there is No boost, which would mean that inside the intake manifold there is no boost pressure.

Previous Issue with Car without SC install:
My car has been having issues since 120Miles I now have 190+ on it. The power would come and go at times and I have always noticed that when the power goes the gas pedal feel looser and light, but when the power comes back the gas pedal feels tighter more resistance.

Since this is a drive by wire and it has a cable on it it would make sense that maybe there is a war going on with the cable and motor that's in the throttle body that opens and closes the valve.


I really appreciate everyone's advice you guys are great, I mean you guys really don't have to help me. So I am very thankful. I need all the help I can get.

This issue is a bit complex and I was hoping that my previous issue would not affect the SC kit, but it seems as if it is. I mean what else would stop the intake manifold from seeing the boost pressure when the piping before the throttle sees it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by redronin View Post
so i am to understand that when you remove the IC you have boost, and when the IC is in place you show zero boost above atmospheric pressure




"and furthermore, you think it is far more likely that a throttle body which has worked perfectly on your car for the past 8 years is at fault, instead of the kit which you just installed...... "




i think ive basically said everything i can say at this point, you have to choose to heed our advice or not. sounds like not.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:31 PM   #58
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The throttle bodies on the 323i is a bit different from the 325i and later.

The 323i throttle has a wire cable coming from the gas pedal that turns a potentiometer inside the throttle body that then tells the motor inside the throttle to open and close the valve.

The 325i Drive By wire has an Electronic Box under the gas pedal which has a harness that goes to the throttle body. That box give the signal to the throttle body motor. This is a more advanced Drive by wire setup compared to the 323i.

323i Throttle Body
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Huge difference

Quote:
I've never heard of a throttle body failing on an e46, and i dunno about drive by wire cars but throttle bodies usually have 1 moving part. theres no half working, either it works or it doesnt

Last edited by lrogers80; 11-26-2008 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:59 PM   #59
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Huge difference
thanks for noting the differences. however my original point was that if there was a problem with the throttle body, it should have presented itself before you installed the kit, and during driving with no boost.


in other words, the throttle body is not smart enough to function incorrectly only when presented with boost.


what is your fuel management? if its asatronic or a similar box resistor, then the signal to the throttle body should be identical (esentially an open/close command, is that correct?)
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Old 11-26-2008, 01:06 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by lrogers80 View Post

Previous Issue with Car without SC install:
My car has been having issues since 120Miles I now have 190+ on it. The power would come and go at times and I have always noticed that when the power goes the gas pedal feel looser and light, but when the power comes back the gas pedal feels tighter more resistance.
hmm must have missed this part. if the pedal feels looser, it sounds like a mechanical problem. try tightening the throttle cable
Quote:

Since this is a drive by wire and it has a cable on it it would make sense that maybe there is a war going on with the cable and motor that's in the throttle body that opens and closes the valve.
i could be wrong but i believe "drive by wire" refers to electronic throttle like the new cars, and non-drivebywire is the old throttle cable style. its very confusing because drive by wire doesnt have the wire that ndbw throttles have edit: nvm i see you have it correct in your next post.

i would say that this previous issue you mentioned sounds (in my amateur opinion) your throttle cable is a little loose. especially if you lose power most notably in specific conditions, like hot or cold. replace the whole thing if its cheap and easy to get to.

this would make sense because if you "half-step" the gas pedal to high rpm, you can indeed do this making zero boost because you arent putting enough load to make the car "gulp the whole shot of air" so to speak.

however if your throttle is tight, standing on the pedal, you should see boost by 3k. in fact if your throttle body is loose or otherwise stuck from opening the entire way, your BPV would essentially be partially open at all times.

Last edited by redronin; 11-26-2008 at 01:19 PM.
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