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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 12-11-2008, 01:37 PM   #1
paraklas
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Just did the VANOS Seals & Valve Cover Gasket - Seals VIDEO Incld.

Took me 6 hours total. VERY Easy DIY, specially when you have the proper tools. Needless to write a DIY since the guide in beisansystems.com is more than enough. I took a short video of the intake cylinder piston.

Engine: M54B22
Mileage: 55000
Oil Used since New: Mobil 1 0W40 Chaged every 6500miles



As you can see the piston is very loose in the cylinder. And I don't even have the cold start issues etc.

And Absolutely no Sludge!!










When I finished I started the engine and it fired immediately. Now doing the break-in (300 miles city driving)
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:43 PM   #2
MachRc
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nice looks clean!, i even cleaned the intake manifold!
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:43 PM   #3
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bump for later!!!
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:13 PM   #4
vimal32
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This looks so clean and easy.
THanks for the great pics, now i finally know what the inside of my engine should look like.
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:25 PM   #5
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I am still waiting for my Seals to arrive. Gonna tackle it before christmas for sure.
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Old 12-11-2008, 06:24 PM   #6
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Thanks for the video.
This is how all the vanos units are. That seal is supposed to hold 60 psi oil pressure. This oil pressure is needed to manipulate the position of the piston which is mounted to the helical shaft which controls the variable valve timing adjustment. Due to the failing seals the oil leaks and the piston and variable valve timing can't be positioned correctly. Replacing the seals allows the vanos to function properly and for the variable valve timing system to function properly. This introduces significant performance improvements and an increase in gas mileage by ~3 MPG.

Last edited by Rajaie; 12-11-2008 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:36 AM   #7
paraklas
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There's no way that seals would hold 60psi. The exhaust side was just like the intake.
I've Just done 100miles city driving. Engine does run smoother than before and there's a bit more low-end torgue. One (probably stupid) question: Is there a chance that the weakened/failed VANOS seals to affect the engine's redline? Not to increase redline of course but to prevent engine from reaching it.
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:04 AM   #8
alibusoul
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wow i really need to do this.. i have my valve cover and im doing this wknd.. my valve gasket is SO bad that i can see spots of oil on my headlights etc from being spit out. its really bad.

Im scared to do the vanos.. how easy is it paraklas?
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:16 AM   #9
paraklas
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I had my laptop next to me with the guide from beisansystems, nothing else is needed information wise. Trust me it's much easier than it looks. Just make sure you have all the proper tools (torgue wrench is a must) which are listed in the guide. Once you get the valve cover out of the engine it's a matter of a couple of nuts/bolts to have the VANOS dissasembled. Took me 6 hours which included breakfast & lunch break and I was working very slowly. The only "difficult" thing was to torgue the lower left bolt of the valve cover gasket.
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:16 AM   #10
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I don't believe leaking piston seals would have any noticeable effect on redline. The pressure on one side of the piston would be at maximum. A small leak would not dissipate this pressure fast enough to cause the piston to be incorrectly positioned. However this would not be true in low RPM where the pressures on both sides of the piston are fairly close. Therefore, a leak would have maximum detrimental impact on the position of the piston.
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:44 AM   #11
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Great! Looks like I'll be tackling both of these jobs at the same time as well.
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:12 AM   #12
paraklas
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More pics from yesterday..

Laptop with the guide from beisansystems & music. 1/2" torx set


RTV Silicone, valve cover gasket, VANOS seals, torque wrench, 2 VANOS bolts, 2 VANOS oil supply seals, VANOS gasket




My wrench had a range from 20-100 Nm so I got another one starting from 10Nm as well.


Ramps to allow removal of lower splash shield just in case I dropped a nut or something


Engine before surgery


Leak point


Engine cover off.


Removal of ground wire - Don't forget to place it back afterwards or you will experience missfires


Coils out


Pry and lift coil wires out of the way as well as O2 wirings.


8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm 1/2" bits with U-joint & extension to access difficult spots


Fan out. 1 Torx screw, 2 connectors, 1 push/lock pin. Slides out!




Oil recirculation hose disconnected


15 valve cover bolts removed. 11 @ perimeter and 4 in the centre next to spark plugs


With some extra force, valve cover is removed. Thankfully no sludge. Engine is crystal clean


Timing chain & VANOS unit


8mm allen key needed for the 2 VANOS cover bolts


13mm for the upper engine hoist mount and 10mm for the lower one. Rotate and remove


Disconnect exhaust camshaft plug and exhaust solenoid plug


19mm wrench for VANOS oil supply hose. The 2 seals were discarded and replaced with new ones. Also Intake solenoid plug and thermostat plug disconnected.


Once the hoist is removed, plugs disconnected, 2 VANOS (8mm Allen) bolts removed, 6 nuts (10mm) at lower part removed, oil supply disconnected (19mm), 2 VANOS seals plugs removed (Long nose pliers), 2 Torx (reverse threaded) internal VANOS bolts removed, VANOS unit can slide out. Gasket around VANOS unit was replaced as well. Although no physical damage, I noticed that the ($5.00) new gasket was not completely flat, which means it would adapt its shape once torqued down.


VANOS out of the engine and on table with plenty of rags to catch trapped oil.


New seals soaking for 2 minutes in warm water to probably soften them, as per beisan instructions



5 bolts for intake and 4 bolts for exhaust pistons removed and finally the pistons are out and ready for the new seals


With a razor knife I cut the old seals, cleaned everything, applied some motor oil and inserted the new seals in place.


I inserted the piston with the new seals in the cylinder for 2 minutes to allow seals to shrink to proper size, removed and repeated the same for the other cylinder. I verified that the seals were correctly seated and reinstalled both covers. I initially screwed each bolt with hand and then torqued to 10Nm in a cross formation. After both caps were in place, I re-checked all bolts to be torqued down to specs before reversing the entire procedure for re-install.


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Old 01-20-2009, 11:39 PM   #13
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Awesome write up! I just followed the links you provided and ordered all the parts from beisan and tischer today. I can't wait to get rid of the cold start issues and hesitation when i accelerate. (more key words for searches )
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:17 AM   #14
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in for later
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Old 01-31-2009, 12:05 AM   #15
hakjai
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Cross-checking the beisan instructions with your awesome pictures and its been smooth sailing so far...almost. I have the vanos unit off the car and plan to replace the seals tomorrow when its a bit warmer and brighter. The only problem I had was I broke the driver side clip that holds the fan in place. I've removed this before but I guess over the years the plastic got a little brittle. I also got some oil on my belts but nothing major. Thanks for the detailed write-up and pictures. I hope to join the beisan club by tomorrow.
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Old 01-31-2009, 12:39 AM   #16
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just a quick question i just thought of:

are these beisan seals supposed to last longer than the oem ones?


oh and, mobil 1 0w-40 ftw.
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:04 AM   #17
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The Beisan seals should last the life of the car and more. We've checked them at 15k miles and they are new.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:57 AM   #18
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great thread! Thank you very much!
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:54 PM   #19
kataE46
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can anyone help me figure out the name for this bolt where the valve cover nut connects on top of the engine head. Apparently during my installation I applied to much torque and snapped of the top of the bolt. I can't seem to find a place to order it from, maybe because I am searching for the wrong name. Thanks
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:04 PM   #20
zander271
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This there any difference in removing the fan on a manual or automatic? If so can anyone point me in the right direction an automatic? When I replaced my power steering pump it was a PITA to get around.
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