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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-24-2010, 05:09 PM   #21
the_curry_man
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so i just got the p0339 code (crank shaft position sensor circuit intermittent) does that mean that the wiring harness is bad or that the sensor is bad cuz i just replaced it with a new one, wiped the codes, and it came back instantaneously.....now what?
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:15 AM   #22
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so i just got the p0339 code (crank shaft position sensor circuit intermittent) does that mean that the wiring harness is bad or that the sensor is bad cuz i just replaced it with a new one, wiped the codes, and it came back instantaneously.....now what?
When I had the P0339 code, changing the sensor cured the problem. There have been reports of bad sensors (new ones) though. How did you "wipe" the code? I just unplugged my battery for a few minutes and code never came back. If the code was instantaneous (and assuming a good replacement sensor), maybe you didn't get the wire plugged in all the way or bent a pin on the connector?

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Old 11-21-2010, 06:17 PM   #23
cshin1995
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I broke the crankshaft position sensor while replacing my starter on 1999 323. I tried putting in 5 allen wrench in to remove, but was not going in the head, so I used 3/16 which went in, but stripped the inside. I tried by bolt remover bit, but it only ate up the inside. Any idea on removing the bolt? This is harder than removing the starter, which was PITA as well. I do have the starter removed, so I do have some space to work with.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:18 AM   #24
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put pb blaster or liquid wrench on it and tap head few times with hammer. Let soak in, repeat. Then try needle nose vice grip pliers or bigger vice grips if you can get them in there. It'll come out.

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Old 11-23-2010, 01:34 PM   #25
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I tried cutting a line in to get a flat head on it based on suggestions from internet. Also soaked it with WD40 (what I had on hand) and banged it with long prybar and hammer. And head ripped off. Now the screw is headless. I cut off the CPS and used an extractor which would not grip to the screw and just made a divot in the housing. I am thinking of using JB weld to attach a roundhead screw as a post to the divot and then a nut to hold the sensor. What do you think?
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Old 11-23-2010, 02:19 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by the_curry_man View Post
so i just got the p0339 code (crank shaft position sensor circuit intermittent) does that mean that the wiring harness is bad or that the sensor is bad cuz i just replaced it with a new one, wiped the codes, and it came back instantaneously.....now what?

Same here for me, when i replaced the intake camshaft position sensor the code comes back as soon as i clear it, after researching this i am lead to belive its the vanos seals, but from the members that have the bad vanos seals it throws the exhaust camshaft position sensor code, i am going to rebuild the vanos seals anyway since its something that should be replaced, hopefully it'll clear my codes. if not then i dont know... i feel that i had already wasted the the money on buying the sensor and it wasn;t the problem...
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:22 PM   #27
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I found getting to the sensor from the bottom is the easiest.

You just have to disconnect the cannister which is just one bolt.
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:13 AM   #28
NSXBill
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I found getting to the sensor from the bottom is the easiest.

You just have to disconnect the cannister which is just one bolt.
My vote is getting to it from the top on my 2001 sedan. I tried the bottom, and could get my hand on it, but could not see what I was doing very easily. My car doesn't have the cannister where others have discribed. I only removed the airbox and could reach it from the top/front without too much trouble. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:03 PM   #29
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After replacing the crankshaft position sensor with an OEM part from a BMW dealer and the car would not start. It would just crank. I checked the wiring continuity which checked out okay. I bought another CPS from Autozone and tried it. This time it would only start intermittently. I decided to take it to a shop and they reported CPS housing was "loose" and they had to modify it to get the right gap distance. Has any one heard of this problem? I already told them to go ahead with the work since I needed the car back running...
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:06 PM   #30
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http://www.winkflash.com/photo/publi...red&ic=9458765

Question on the sensor and the vacuum canister. See above link for picture.

Is the bolt for the canister underneath it? I think I see it but I am not sure but I see no way to get to the bolt from above or even enough slack to move it out of the way. I can't even begin to see the sensor at all - from above or below. I have not taken off the DISA - would it help that much if I did? I have been looking now for over 2 hours - maybe I will see if better in the morning but I very much doubt it. Got to take the car off the jack stands and roll it the rest of the way into the garage.

2001 330i 4 door.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:47 PM   #31
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Is the bolt for the canister underneath it? I think I see it but I am not sure but I see no way to get to the bolt from above or even enough slack to move it out of the way. I can't even begin to see the sensor at all - from above or below. I have not taken off the DISA - would it help that much if I did? I have been looking now for over 2 hours - maybe I will see if better in the morning but I very much doubt it. Got to take the car off the jack stands and roll it the rest of the way into the garage.
Yes, bolt for the vacuum reservoir is below it. The crankshaft position sensor is behind. You will have to remove the bolt holding in the vacuum reservoir in order to access the sensor. It is a 13mm IIRC. The starter is directly above the sensor.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:09 PM   #32
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I got PB Blaster on the nut and it looks like I have to wedge the metal it is attached to - it flexes every time I try and remove it. I don't see how it can be gotten to from above though - there is no way to see below the canister to get to the nut.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:22 PM   #33
genuity
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I got PB Blaster on the nut and it looks like I have to wedge the metal it is attached to - it flexes every time I try and remove it. I don't see how it can be gotten to from above though - there is no way to see below the canister to get to the nut.
Access it from the bottom of the car. It is much easier. Granted you may have to do by feel but it shouldn't be that difficult than trying to do yoga from the top.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:47 PM   #34
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I need about 3 arms - I need to get a chunk of wood behind the flange the bolt is on and get it to stay in place.
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:07 AM   #35
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Got the nut off the canister - having one hell of a time getting anything on the nut for the sensor. Why could they just do a 10mm bolt? I have those sockets. Not sure I can get that on either but.... Off to buy some hex sockets
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:52 PM   #36
CylonRed
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Got it done - hands are raw and - still get the code. I am not doing that again so to my fav shop it goes. I worked on it last night for about 3 hours and then again today for 4.5-5 hours.... I don't have that much time left in the weekend.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:18 AM   #37
CylonRed
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Going to get the car back today - only about $98 in work. The desk guy said that they checked things out and cleaned something and it was fine. I can only guess right now that they cleaned the wheel sensors and maybe made sure the sensor electrical plug was good and snug on the crankshaft sensor..

EDIT:
They cleared all of the codes and drove the car for 153 miles and not a single issue. Either they cleared a code that was pending or they could clear some codes I could not.

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Last edited by CylonRed; 05-05-2011 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:46 PM   #38
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What size is the allen bolt holding on the crank position sensor? 5mm?
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:41 AM   #39
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What size is the allen bolt holding on the crank position sensor? 5mm?
Yes, according to the OP earlier in this thread.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:42 PM   #40
Bandit
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Okay,

So this is my wife's car, it has been hard to start for about a year now, and it would only throw a code about once every 4 months(always P0339), and the light would only stay on for about an hour. Last week I decided to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I got a new one from Napa and spent the better part of a day puling the old one and putting the new one in, I tried from the bottom but quickly realized that I was going to have to suck it up and squeeze my arms and hands in from the top. If you remove everything the OP tells you to plus the plastic shield that guards the relay box(on top of the fender against the firewall), there is just enough room to get a long ball tip T-handle allen wrench in there.

It didn't fix the problem, in fact all of the symptoms were amplified. Now it takes forever to start, misfires and stalls. Its also way down on power and sucking down gas. Tonight I decided to remove the new CPS and turn it in on warranty for another one(horror stories of bad off the shelf parts. I just finished removing it and it only took like 30 minutes. Its not that bad once you know what your doing. I am off to get a new new one and will update once it is installed.

on a side note: I truly believe if the CPS is bad it somehow affects the fuel pump, with the glove box out, once I put the new CPS in, I could hear the fuel pump relay going nuts until the car would start.
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