E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 98 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 01-27-2009, 04:26 AM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 868
My Ride: 323ci

This is a DIY an other member (Elbert) put together and I assisted with by email last year. Seeing how there are many issues with the OS due to the cold weather I thought I would post the DIY here for everyone to use. He is on bimmerfest.com and I am here on e46fanatics.com so we're trying to help everyone out.

Hope this help some people save money in these tough times.

DIY removal of the:
Oil Separator Valve (also known as: Pressure Regulating Valve, or Crankcase Ventilation Valve -CCV, PVC valve)
Idle Control Valve (ICV)
Intake Manifold Resonance Valve (also known as DISA Valve)

This is a journal of the work I did on my car-a 2001 BMW 325i E46 sedan, auto transmission. To the best of my recollection, the following tools, parts, and procedures are what I used in working on my car. Your particular car model might differ.

T-40 & T-25 Torx
6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
Ratchet -1/4"
Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4"
Universal joint - 1/4"
Throttle body cleaner
Long screw driver
Magnetic pick up tool (you're a bound to drop something)
Small blade knife
Optional (nice to have but not absolutely necessary)
o 6 mm reversible ratchet wrench - For less than $10.00, this will pay for itself to facilitate removal of the hard to access lower air intake boot clamps
o Assembly lube
o Electrical connector cleaner and dielectric lubricant
o Hose cutter, i.e. PVC pipe cutter

Shopping List
11617501566 Oil Separator 1 47.95
11611432559 Oil Separator Hose to Valve Cover 1 22.97
11157532629 Oil Separator Oil Dip Stick hose 1 8.48
11617504535 Oil Separator Connecting Hose 1 32.90
11617504536 Return Pipe from Connecting Hose 1 31.49
13541435627 Air Intake Boot; Lower 1 12.43
11431740045 O-Ring Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan 1 0.70
11611716174 Throttle Housing Gasket 1 4.92

If your funds are low, and considering how unreasonably expensive these hoses are, try removing the Return Pipe from Connecting Hose without breaking it. If you are successful and decide to reuse, flush clean inside of hose with throttle body cleaner and blow air through the hose to make sure it is clear of any blockage

Helpful suggestions

It is best to order all 4 plastic related oil separator hoses. These plastic hoses get brittle with age. The older the car, the greater the likelihood the connector/hose will break during removal. These connectors are easy to connect but could also be a challenge to disconnect due to seizing and the restricted working area. Another benefit of having the parts is you can practice how they connect/disconnect to each other. In addition, to facilitate removal, it is sometimes better to cut the hose or the connector
Either drive the front wheels on a ramp or raise the front wheels. This working position is easier because the access to the work area is more convenient than stooping low. In addition, you may need to access the car from underneath, although I did not have to this. I just like the car being higher; it is easier on my back
Unlike the upper air intake boot, the lower air intake boot will likely need replacement. The small elbow tube of the lower air intake boot is susceptible to splitting.
Although the wiring harness connectors are keyed to prevent cross connection, it is good practice to place a label on the connector and the unit that it attaches to. Also, count the number of wiring harnesses you are disconnecting. It is easy to miss a connector during installation.
The wiring harness connectors have a metal locking wire clip that is pushed down and pulled to disconnect. To re-install, hold connector without touching metal clip and insert connector until you hear it click.
It also a good practice to label all screws and bolts, replace to its location, or tape it to the removed part. The more diligent you are in doing this, the smoother your installation process will be.
Take several digital pictures as you go along during removal to serve as reference during installation just in case you forget how things go.
Lubricate the ports of the new hoses with assembly lube to ease assembly
Clean all electrical connectors with electrical cleaner and use dielectric lubricant.
Check the condition of surrounding vacuum lines and hoses while you are there

It is best to REMOVE the following parts in the order given. Underneath each heading are the fasteners and instructions for removal of the part.

1. Micro-filter housing assembly. Photo 1
a. Micro filter cover - 3 half-turn clips
b. Micro filter
c. Cable harness cover - lift clips to open
d. Micro filter housing base - 4 T-25 torx screws, location is underneath the micro filter and towards the firewall

2. Fuel rail cover. Photo 1
a. 2 plastic caps
b. 2 10mm bolts underneath plastic caps

3. Front air duct. Photo 1
a. 3 plastic expanding fasteners. Raise middle pin and pull out expanding fastener

4. Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) Photo 1
a. Disconnect wiring harness to MAF sensor
b. Loosen hose clamp between MAF and upper air intake boot
c. Leave MAF connected to the air filter box

5. Air filter box assembly. Photo 1
a. Detach wiring harness behind air filter box
b. Remove 2 10mm bolts on air box base
c. Remove both air filter box and MAF as a unit

6. Air intake boot -upper. Photo 1
a. Loosen hose clamp
b. Disconnect vent hose coming off the top of the upper air intake boot or leave it connected and just lay the upper air intake boot on top of the intake manifold

7. Middle boot connector
a. Loosen hose clamp

8. Oil dipstick guide tube
a. Detach or slice off hose from the dipstick to the oil separator
b. Unhook wiring and vacuum lines from oil dipstick guide tube
c. Remove 13mm bolt holding oil dip stick bracket
d. Clean surrounding area and base prior to pulling dipstick assembly off. Replace o-ring at its base. No oil catch pan required as long as the oil pan is not overfilled
e. Insert a plug on the hole to prevent anything from falling in
f. Clean passage way of guide tube going to the oil separator with a thin piece of metal such as a clothes hanger wire and spray clean with throttle body cleaner

9. Heat shield. Photo 1
a. 2 quarter-turn twist fasteners
b. Move hose and weather strip out of the way, and lift heat shield

10. Lower air intake boot. Photo 2 & 4a
a. Before removing this boot, with the aid of a small mirror, notice this part has large rubber tab at its base. This tab aligns between 2 raised guidelines located on the outside bottom of the throttle body port. Align the tab when installing the new boot
b. 2 hose clamps - 1 clamp for the throttle body port and the other for the Idle Control Valve port

11. Intake Manifold Resonance Valve, also known as DISA Valve. Photo 3
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. 2 T-40 Torx screws
c. Spray clean the inside flaps

12. Wire harness box, Photo 3 & 5
a. 3 10mm nuts. One of the nuts is located at bottom right of the throttle body, next to one of the throttle body bolts. You will need a mirror as an aid to view location
b. Remove additional electrical connectors, not all, so you can move the wiring housing aside

13. Fuel Tank Venting/Breather Valve and mount bracket. Photo 5
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. Slide out fuel tank venting valve from mounting bracket. There is no need to remove connecting hose

14. Fuel Tank Venting/Breather Valve mount bracket. Photo 5
a. Remove 2 T-25 mount bracket screws

15. Idle Control Valve ICV. Photo 5
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. 2 T-40 screws
c. The other port end of the ICV is held via friction to a rubber grommet - pull out ICV to remove. Clean rubber grommet and lightly coat with assembly lube. Spray valve ports clean with throttle body cleaner

16. Throttle Body. Photo 4a
a. Disconnect wire harness
b. 4 10mm bolts - outside corners
c. Clean ports and butterfly plate with throttle body cleaner

17. Return Hose - Photo 6 & 7
a. The connector that is close to the firewall is difficult to remove due to very restrictive space. Insert a screwdriver between the fuel rail and locking ring to pinch ring and coming from the opposite position press the other side of locking ring with your finger and pull out hose. Another option is to cut locking ring off with a blade. Without the locking ring, pull connector out.
b. Remove other end of connector that is attached to the connecting hose

18. Oil Separator Hose to Valve Cover. Photo 7
a. Notice 90 deg elbow of this hose goes to the valve cover and the other end goes to oil separator
b. Squeeze locking ring and pull out. If the lower connector is difficult to remove, cut hose and leave connector attached to the oil separator

19. Oil Separator Connecting Hose. Photo 6 & 7
a. Unlike the other hose connectors, the connector going to oil separator does not use a locking ring. Curl the flex hose to get clearance if necessary and turn connector about 50 degrees or slightly over turn counter-clockwise until it stops. Then pull out hose to disconnect

20. Oil separator. Photo 8
a. 2 T-25 screws
b. Important: One of the ports has a rubber plug. Remove rubber plug and transfer rubber plug to the new oil separator. If your car has a hose attached, ignore.

Installation tips

1. It is best to re-install the parts in reverse order given
2. Fasten the oil separator first to the engine, then insert the connecting hose through the intake passage way. Important: Tug the hose to make sure you have it on securely. Also get a visual confirmation you have it attached properly; use a mirror if you have to
3. Position air intake hose clamp nuts for easier access for future projects
4. Pre-install oil separator oil dipstick hose to dipstick guide tube before assembly
5. Insert the oil dipstick o-ring onto the base of the guide tube before installation. Before fully inserting the guide tube to the engine port, tuck in the o-ring into the chamber and fully seat the guide tube

This job has a high level of difficulty. Some have rated it as a 7-8 based on oil change as level 1 and engine rebuild as level 10. Do allocate at least 5 - 7 hours of work depending on your level of proficiency. Hopefully the instruction above brings the level of difficulty down by one and shave off an hour or two off the project.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo.jpeg
Views:	33937
Size:	138.4 KB
ID:	300178   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_1.jpeg
Views:	25542
Size:	92.8 KB
ID:	300180   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_2.jpeg
Views:	24769
Size:	82.7 KB
ID:	300182   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_3.jpeg
Views:	22835
Size:	65.5 KB
ID:	300183  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_4.jpeg
Views:	19983
Size:	31.9 KB
ID:	300184   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_5.jpeg
Views:	49417
Size:	88.6 KB
ID:	300185   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_6.jpeg
Views:	32446
Size:	61.8 KB
ID:	300186   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_7.jpeg
Views:	64345
Size:	99.2 KB
ID:	300187  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo_8.jpeg
Views:	26062
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	300188  

00' 323ci - 170hp

Last edited by Nicker; 01-27-2009 at 04:33 AM.
Nicker is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 01-27-2009, 08:17 AM   #2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London UK
Posts: 1,234
My Ride: BMW 335i 2007 Coupe
Great write-up, a quality addition to the site.

Though dare I say I imagine the job would be much quicker if you were not to do it so ideally or diligently, for someone just replacing the faulty part, and not meticulously cleaning other parts, or labelling or photographing.
I know a job always takes longer when I'm attempting to do it perfectly, particularly when I'm noting things for such a DIY guide.
tony325ci_51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 08:20 AM   #3
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 106
My Ride: '04 330i ZHP TiAg
wow... nice job guys
PK330iZHP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 09:18 AM   #4
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WI -> CO
Posts: 20,113
My Ride: ZHP
great thread! Thanks!
Whammy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 10:58 AM   #5
Regional Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: New Brighton MN
Posts: 5,018
My Ride: 2000 E46 with 254K
Nice make sure if you are in a cold climate you install the updated cold weather valve

Seth Thorson
Service Manager/BMW Tech
JB Eurotech Service "Your Reasonable Dealer Alternative"

General Questions can be sent to appointment@jbeurotech.com

1. Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
2. Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
jbeurotech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 11:00 AM   #6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Vermont
Posts: 301
My Ride: 2002 325XI
Ahh...just saw something about pushing the o ring in first prior to pushing the dip stick tube all the way down...wonder if that was my problem...had such a hard time getting it in, but i did after a few attempts.
plmskier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 01:36 PM   #7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tampa
Posts: 672
My Ride: a car
I just did this to my car, I hate changing that thing. Wish I would have read this earlier, but i still managed. My hose from the Vent to the Dipstick was broken on mine, hence my oil leak.

BTW took me about 3 and a half hours.
Originally Posted by Born Again View Post
relax kiddies ur 10 year old car is still god on this forum

Last edited by Rene325ci; 02-02-2009 at 01:38 PM.
Rene325ci is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 04:58 PM   #8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: KC
Posts: 6
My Ride: 2000 323i
I just did this Saturday. Man does it suck. Of course I didn't have the lower intake boot and it ripped when I took it off.

I do have a problem now and I don't know if it is related or not. I had an SES code for the exhaust side camshaft position sensor. So I ordered one and replaced it at the same time. However, not my car cranks over and hesitates starting. It does start. I still have the code for the exhaust camshaft sensor too. To check this out I put the old sensor back into the car and it still has trouble starting. Once it is running it seems to be fine. It just doesn't like starting.

What could be causing this?

Thank you so much for the DIY it helped so much

Last edited by smashedup; 02-02-2009 at 05:02 PM.
smashedup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 04:59 PM   #9
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Atlanta <- Baltimore <- Ithaca
Posts: 6,486
My Ride: 99 M3 & 95 325i
Send a message via AIM to dreamdrivedrift
Wow, thank you for the contribution!
dreamdrivedrift is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2009, 07:31 PM   #10
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 16
My Ride: 325ci
Thanks for the help. Just did this today without removing the intake. Took at most 5 hours with breaks. Also I installed the cold weather version with all of the insulated hoses.
Mar3moon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2009, 08:04 PM   #11
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: .
Posts: 6,608
My Ride: .
Send a message via AIM to 330ciandr6 Send a message via Yahoo to 330ciandr6
Originally Posted by Mar3moon View Post
Thanks for the help. Just did this today without removing the intake. Took at most 5 hours with breaks. Also I installed the cold weather version with all of the insulated hoses.
a BREAK is what you take at work....BRAKES are what stop your car

and i think i'll add this to my sig
Have a oil or coolant leak? Click here!:http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...732&highlight=
ABS/DSC/Brake/Airbag light on?? Click here!:http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...648&highlight=
330ciandr6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2009, 09:38 PM   #12
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Ottawa, Canada.
Posts: 472
My Ride: 99 323i Alpine White
Originally Posted by 330ciandr6 View Post
a BREAK is what you take at work....BRAKES are what stop your car
Well thanks for the spelling lesson Webster... however, I understand the statement as it took five hours including stopping for a rest (aka break).
The right to speak freely does not guarantee the right to be taken seriously.
Bailey228 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2009, 10:40 PM   #13
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 894
My Ride: MTA :(
Good DIY, but no sig-girl in DIY pics FTL.
** Tim330i waz hur **
AntB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2009, 05:47 PM   #14
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Grove City, Pa
Posts: 3
My Ride: 328is 330xi a4 tsx
Following these directions will save you hours!!! I found them about half way through the project and the project went from many beers and wondering if I could get it to a dealer to smooth sailing. Great writeup and appreciated (by both me and my wife).
stpracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2009, 08:49 PM   #15
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 97
My Ride: 323
just finished replacing my oil seperator and hoses today.. took me 2 hours at our shop.. this DIY guide is really helpfull...
gruvn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2009, 09:46 PM   #16
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 206
My Ride: AUDI
I've searched around and couldn't really find any answers. I've been reading up on "catch cans". Do you think that it's a viable option in lieu of replacing the OS? A catch can is actually cheaper and from what I've read, more efficient. Looking for professional opinions.

FYI, most applications of a catch can were for turbocharged or supercharged applications. Not sure if it's a coincidence or not.

Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
Nice make sure if you are in a cold climate you install the updated cold weather valve
jkwon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 01:46 AM   #17
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 3,343
My Ride: not an E46

2003 325xi 5MT
Jet Black, ZSP, ZPP, ZCW, OEM Xenon ^^RIP
sig by Solidjake
mujjuman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2009, 08:06 AM   #18
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas / SoCal
Posts: 225
My Ride: has M-Style
Thanks for the DIY, bro!

I completed this last night and now she purrs at start-up.

Wifey's car is faster....booooooooo
///Rogu3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2009, 09:17 AM   #19
Guy With A BMW
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 538
My Ride: 2003.5 AW M3 SMG
Good job on the DIY....but like a lot others on here...we are still waiting on more pics of the girl in your sig!
Guy With A BMW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2009, 02:59 AM   #20
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Qatif -Awamiah
Posts: 376
My Ride: BMW E46 328I, 1999
I did this diy yesterday. but I note that there is some defferen in some hoses. I dont have the return pipe, and the connection hose dosent have a small connector for the return pipe.
my car is 10/1998 E46 328i Sedan M52 Europe. Any body have the same thing?!

Last edited by maxi; 10-18-2009 at 03:10 AM.
maxi is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:02 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2016 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use