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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 01-26-2011, 02:15 PM   #61
OrientBlau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32800 View Post
This is a great write-up, thanks.
I am getting ready to tear into this as soon as it warms up a bit. My main objective is to remove and clean the ICV and hose out the throttle body with some cleaner. I don't have the whistling like others have stated, but once I get in there I plan to replace the lower intake boot just because.
One question I have is in the parts list, the lower boot is stated as #13541435627, but in another DIY it was listed as #13541438759. Which is correct?
Depends on your production MM/YY

Check realOEM.com or Penskeparts.com to se which one you need. Just enter your last 7 VIN and know what your production year is. It can be found on your driver side door jam.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:45 PM   #62
32800
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Yeah. thanks for the reply.
Found my own answer, sorry for the dumba$$ question.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:15 PM   #63
My Wifes 330i
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It has always been my belief that the only dumb question is the question that is not asked
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:34 PM   #64
OrientBlau
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Originally Posted by 32800 View Post
Yeah. thanks for the reply.
Found my own answer, sorry for the dumba$$ question.
No such thing as a dumb question. There's prolly many others who learned something from your question, believe it or not. We're all learning something new every day. I know I am.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:32 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My Wifes 330i View Post
Connector Hose Solution

I was out to the dealer to pick up the 'F' looking connector that always breaks on the intake tubes as well as Oil filter and oil to change after doing the CCV Cold Kit as I figured dirt would have gotten in through the removal of the dipstick tube. Anyhow, I started a conversation and asked if the techs remove the intake manifold to install. He said No. I asked how they got the tube connected that needed the quarter turn. He smiled. Lightly Lube the OS and snap together. So I came home and gave it a try. First I fished the hose up through the Intake Manifold and then I used a little dish soap on the outside of fitting on the OS. Slide OS into place, but did not fasten. Gave me just a little wiggle room. I then lined hose up with the OS. At this point I thought I would take my heat gun and warm the coupling up a little and then quickly press together. With very little effort it was in place. Gave it a good tug to make sure. Less than 5 min to install. The oil dipstick took the longest. Had a real hard time with the new O Ring.
I have not tried it yet, but I think silicone lube can work also

Quote:
Originally Posted by seanbro13 View Post
intake tube to the Oil Seperator is a real pain. If intake is left on, twist tube from above as you work it down through the intake manifold to the OS. Have OS bolted on first and push the intake tube over the connection. There is no way to make that twist connection as designed with the intake manifold in place.

I just finished this DIY, started it up with no indicator lights, but had a major oil leak. Had it started up for 10 seconds before i moved it and saw a huge oil puddle on the ground, almost from tire to tire. I am thinking this is the oil dipstick/guide tube? The oil seperator and tubes are fine and wouldn't leak that much anyway in that short time frame, I would think. The only other oil associated part(s) I touched was the oil dipstick tube - I moved it out of the way while doing the OS install and moved it back. I think it might be this tube or its o-ring? Any insight? I did not replace any dipstick parts other than tube from OS to dipstick.

I don't think any other oil lines are in the way that could have been accidently broken on OS install. I can't get back into it to check it out for a day or two until temperature rises, but I am at major loss and could use any help or insight. Thanks.
It could be the Oil filter housing gasket. Look it up.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:37 PM   #66
jetjockey
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this is an awesome DIY write up. Very informative and easy to follow. Kudos for your work. Did anyone have any problems with the dipstick tube being stuck. I can't seem to get it out without it bending. I see that there is some corrosion at the base from all the salt on the roads. Any suggestions? I dont want to go bending it too much for fear it will either break or crack and cause more problems.

Also....can someone explain how to unlock the throttle body electrical connection? I cant seem to figure this one out and I don't want to pry on a tab too hard and risk breaking it. it seems like all the plastic parts are a little brittle on my car. i guess that's what 10 year will do.

Last edited by jetjockey; 02-15-2011 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:19 PM   #67
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Thanks so much for the write up! Got it done today! 5hrs with breaks for beer- it helps with the patience for the hoses.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:22 PM   #68
E46Moonlight
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I did mine ccv yesterday, took me 6hrs to get done. Thanks for te write up! This diy isn't for the faint of heart, lots of patience is needed for this one.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:31 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E46Moonlight View Post
...This diy isn't for the faint of heart, lots of patience is needed for this one.
+1 Not for the faint of heart! Just did mine this past weekend and I spent a total of 12hrs replacing the Oil Separator and Oil Filter Housing Gasket. Wore me out, but it feels good to accomplish this long diy project. Thanks to the OP and everyone that added comments.
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:03 PM   #70
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PS: if anyone out there is wrestling with the ICV, just keep twisting and pulling and eventually it will come out.

Last edited by Mad328Luv; 03-06-2011 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:37 AM   #71
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Thanks!

Thank you for the excellent DIY guide! I replaced my leaking oil separator this past weekend on my '04 330ci. Got the cold weather version and everything is running great now, thanks!
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:24 PM   #72
York
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Originally Posted by mattrpav View Post
... Got the cold weather version and everything is running great now, thanks!
Just wondering why the cold weather version? Your location says Austin? I'm assuming TX, but maybe it's another Austin?
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Last edited by York; 03-10-2011 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:04 PM   #73
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Nicker-great job on details, required tools, and process steps! Your information helped me finally rid my wife's car of the "service engine soon" light due to the CCV. For all you other researchers out there-my codes were P0171 & P0174 with occassional P0313. One last note, be cautious when trying to install and uninstall the CCV lines that you do not disconnect the Fuel Tank vent line from under the intake! This was nightmare on locating where it was to connect and actually getting to it! The line runs under the intake and comes up directly above the intake manifold support from block. There is an elbow for vacuum line to master cylnder and the fuel tank vent line connection-which is directly behind it and close to engine block. Very difficult to find and push the
line on so...don't let it disconnect.
Thanks again Nicker -You the man!
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:17 AM   #74
El Polo
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Originally Posted by Mad328Luv View Post
PS: if anyone out there is wrestling with the ICV, just keep twisting and pulling and eventually it will come out.
FVCK! I was almost loosing patience.... it finally came out but I was hoping and praying there were nothing to break when pulling like a gorilla on steroids.
I put a very tiny droplet of engine oil before reinstalling, went in nice and smooth.
My car should be top shape by tomorrow, after reinstalling the whole cooling system.
my first car, my very first "mechanic" experience... before that I only had two oil changes and an air filter change under my belt. Feel accomplished now.
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:17 AM   #75
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Thank you for putting this together OP. I will be doing this later this spring, once it warms up. For everyone else getting ready to tackle this, this link to BavAuto has a really nice DIY with video. Between this post and the video's, this should be a lot easier for everyone.

http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-e46/diy-...ilation-system

and here is another thread on the subject;

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=555847
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:26 PM   #76
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First off I wanted to say thanks a million for this one, I was having some VERY intermittent problems which I was inclined to believe was my CCV and this DIY made replacing it a lot less work than I had expected. I will list the problems I was having and some TIPS I would suggest at the end.
These are the problems I was experiencing although they were all VERY intermittent:
1. Smoking at startup after sitting overnight (or any extended period of time more than a few hours)
2. Car would not hold idle starting in the morning cold mornings.
3. Randomly while driving the car would lose power, When the accelerator would be pressed you could feel hesitation in the engine sputtering and smoking on take offs. (This one was the most random sometimes would go a week or two and not happen then twice in a week or twice in a day it would Happen)
4. Car would stall randomly while driving
I first started looking into vacuum leaks when I was experiencing these problems, I noticed a cracked hose coming from the CCV to the Oil Dipstick so I replaced this hose and the problems subsided a week or so (Although they were so intermittent to begin with this was almost normal)
After finally deciding that I had to do something about the problem and reading some post on this Forum, I decided I should replace the CCV. Glad I did, This job took me 2.5hrs to remove and 1.5hrs to reinstall. I cleaned the DISA and Throttle Body while they were off and also replaced the two hoses coming off of the Middle Air Intake Duct. So my total time was 5hrs, and this included a trip to BMW Parts Dept. for the return hose/valve cover hose and a Bojangles Lunch Break.

My Tips for a Smooth DIY:
I would swap steps 8 and 9 during removal and reinstallation. Removing the heat shield before the Oil Dipstick guide tube makes it easier to turn/jerk lightly on the Dipstick Guide tube to enable its removal.
If you are REPLACING the CCV and hoses not trying to save any, Cut the hoses and u can break the CCV at the Small Part between chambers and save about 20mins on removal. If not remember the Connecting hose is NOT a snap on connection its a 1/4 connection!!!
When reinstalling the Oil separator DO NOT ATTACH THE OIL SEPERATOR to the engine until after first attaching the Connecting hose pictured in Photo 7 or 8. This hose is NOT a snap on connection; it is a 4 turn connection. It is easiest to put this hose on by holding the CCV in your right hand in the position it will be mounted and holding the Connecting Hose in your left hand with the engine side facing the Ceiling, press the hose onto the CCV and turn this hose clockwise until the tip has turned turn and is now facing you. This is easier than trying to make the connection after the CCV is reattached and risking breaking the Old Brittle Hose or a New Hose from over stressing the Joint.

Be patient, the whole project is in a knuckle busting tight area. Be sure to clean the wire connections prior to reinstalling them, the ones on the front of the engine behind the radiator fan etc. are prone to dirt/grime.

Last edited by OneUponMANY; 04-03-2011 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 04-08-2011, 02:19 PM   #77
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Some additional tips: lubricate the connections on the oil seperator really well before installing the hoses. Make sure not to pinch the seals or o-rings when installing those hoses onto the oil seperator. If you do, you will get a vacuum leak (like I did). also, save ALL of the parts that you pull out so in case anything goes wrong, a mechanic can have an idea of what might be going on in there. It really helped when I had my mechanic diagnose my self-imposed vacuum leak. Of course had i lubed up my connections better, I would not have had this problem. I would also echo the advice of previous DIYers to take photos throughout the process and make notes as to where certain hoses were placed. Definitely make bags for each section with the parts and label them. This will save you time. It seems like a big repair, but if you tackle it in small sections, you'll get there and know your car inside and out. I noticed a couple other items that were leaking while I was in there so I was able to fix those as well. normally those areas would not have been accessible so try to kill a couple projects with one wrench. Enjoy
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:40 AM   #78
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Thanks for the DIY!
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:01 PM   #79
steve.325i
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Thank you OP & everyone else who has contibuted. I have been putting this off for a while. I had a VGC oil leak & did that plus the vanos seal in the fall with the hopes that that was my only issue. Now that the warmer eather is coming I deperately need to do this as the symptoms are getting stronger.

I have purchased the ccv & houses through www.bimmerspecialists.ca after reading through this diy :

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=536123

but now that I have read through this one a couple nights ago I have put the job off for another week so I can purchase some additional items:

13541435627 Air Intake Boot; Lower 1 12.43
11431740045 O-Ring Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan 1 0.70
11611716174 Throttle Housing Gasket 1 4.92

Thank you again for all the little details.

btw - some other links just for reference ...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=643639
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323335 (same OP info, differnt forum)
http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?threadID=9267&tstart=60
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:49 PM   #80
steve.325i
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Needless to say that I am a slug & I have not yet done this DIY.

I did find a six part series on youtube that may be helpful to some:




I have one question: Has anyone found a need to replace the Rubber Grommet between the ICV and the Intake Manifold?
My Bentley book recommends it.

It's item # 10 in the pic - 1161 1437 453

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...79&hg=11&fg=40

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