DIY: CCV, DISA, ICV, Oil Separator. STEP BY STEP - PICTURES

Originally Posted by steve.325i

I have one question: Has anyone found a need to replace the Rubber Grommet between the ICV and the Intake Manifold?
My Bentley book recommends it.

It's item # 10 in the pic - 1161 1437 453

I would say to replace it. All gaskets should be replaced, especially when youve got the ICV out.

Steve, i replaced the grommet for $10 and i figured for $10, after spending a day pulling it apart and $300 in other parts, why the heck not!? When I pulled the grommet (mine was on a 328ci and it looked more like a snorkel), it was not worn at all. I really did not need to replace it. But, I was trying to fix a long term issue so I was not taking any chances. It was not easy to get out. I had to pull for awhile to get it lose. Plus, if you open up the car and you need a grommet, then you have to wait while the part arrives. I doubt this is something even a dealer stocks.

Originally Posted by CPTPowell66

Nicker-great job on details, required tools, and process steps! Your information helped me finally rid my wife's car of the "service engine soon" light due to the CCV. For all you other researchers out there-my codes were P0171 & P0174 with occassional P0313. One last note, be cautious when trying to install and uninstall the CCV lines that you do not disconnect the Fuel Tank vent line from under the intake! This was nightmare on locating where it was to connect and actually getting to it! The line runs under the intake and comes up directly above the intake manifold support from block. There is an elbow for vacuum line to master cylnder and the fuel tank vent line connection-which is directly behind it and close to engine block. Very difficult to find and push the
line on so...don't let it disconnect.
Thanks again Nicker -You the man!

Do u have a diagram for the line u are talking about?
I have a check engine light on, just after I did the project

Originally Posted by Mad328Luv

Steve, i replaced the grommet for $10 and i figured for $10, after spending a day pulling it apart and $300 in other parts, why the heck not!? When I pulled the grommet (mine was on a 328ci and it looked more like a snorkel), it was not worn at all. I really did not need to replace it. But, I was trying to fix a long term issue so I was not taking any chances. It was not easy to get out. I had to pull for awhile to get it lose. Plus, if you open up the car and you need a grommet, then you have to wait while the part arrives. I doubt this is something even a dealer stocks.

I called the dealer yesterday & they didn't have one but they were able to order it in for me from the warehouse overnight. I picked it up today.

$39.95 CDN + 13% tax

And yes, it looks like a snorkel. I was a little worried since the Bentley doesn' t show it that way. Thank you for making the comment. Now I know I have the correct part.

any time. that's what we are here for.

Does anyone know if the CCV can be accessed by removing the Oil Filter housing? Or do you need to get the throttle body out to access the CCV bolts? Just wondering because I'm about to do the Oil Filter housing gasket and was thinking that if it was easily accessible I would change the CCV as well. If I have to pull the throttle body I will, but I may leave that for another day if I can't access it with the OFH out.

Thanks

Originally Posted by jetjockey

Does anyone know if the CCV can be accessed by removing the Oil Filter housing? Or do you need to get the throttle body out to access the CCV bolts? Just wondering because I'm about to do the Oil Filter housing gasket and was thinking that if it was easily accessible I would change the CCV as well. If I have to pull the throttle body I will, but I may leave that for another day if I can't access it with the OFH out.

Thanks

I did CCV project and then, later, replaced the OFH gasket (2 projects). By taking the OFH body off you'll have more room. However, I can't say that this is an alternate way to do the CCV without removing the throttle body. I recall that the throttle body has to come off in order to get to the dipstick guide tube to replace the o-ring. Here's a pic:

Thank you!

Great info OP! Did the separator/hoses/DISA and cleaned the ICV and MAF today. Took about 5hrs total. Having the car on ramps really saved my back. BavAuto video was helpful in understanding how to deal with the 1/4 turn piece. Very satisfying to get this job out of the way.

BK

So when replacing the oil seperator, is it a common cause for a later oil leak? I bought my car not too long ago and the dealer said they had just replaced the PVC valve which I have read is the same thing as the OS, and I have recently noticed a small oil leak. I have cleaned up my car nice and I think it is coming from a bad oil housing filter gasket. I put in half a quart every 2 weeks or so, and it only leaks when I drive it.

But either way, would this DIY be something that would fix my oil leak?

I wouldn't conclude about any relationship between the CCV and OFHG. They can fail independently of each other.

Two days ago, I was driving my car (2004 325Ci) down the road and suddenly had the 'check engine' light come on. My car immediately had a rough idle and was so bad that the car was nearly shaking. I read numerous posts on here concerning rough idle and found one that suggested the DISA and ICV needed to be cleaned. I removed the CAI, MAF, DISA and ICV from the car and cleaned them all with appropriate products. Not thinking, I started the engine with all these parts REMOVED. The engine barely turned over...then roared up loud...then there was a very loud 'pop' (like a miny explosion)...I believe a spark/flame shot out from under the hood...and then the engine shut off. All this occured in the span of about two seconds. I immediately freaked out and was sure that I'd just blown my engine. I carefully re-installed all the parts, (prayed) and then started the engine again. It started up fine and there weren't any codes/services lights on. I have not had any further problems, but am paranoid that there might be some unseen damage that occurred during the 'explosion'...to the engine itself of maybe to my plugs and/or ignition coils. I would really appreciate any feedback on what might have caused said 'explosion' and/or what damage might have been done. Thanks!

In my opinion, what I think you saw/heard was exactly what your engine does! It produces "explosion" of air/fuel mixture and with your DISA and other items off-this exhausted through the intake (possible valves not fully seated). If the car is running and not showing any signs, I would think you are okay.
What was the codes thrown when the engine light came on? If you didn't capture it-how did you know what to start cleaning? My guess-with rough idle would be inspect the DISA for worn or brken vane. It is notorious for failure as you read threads and can cause a rough idle when failing. Always capture codes first-it can tell you where and possible what the problem is! Its a DIY's dream tool!

just completed this over the last 2 days, I would say it takes around 5-6 hours and a lot of this time is taking things apart leaning how they work.

The top hose only took about 3 mins maybe less to connect, Bolt the CCV in place 1st, feed the pipe through and then get your hand in there and push it on as hard as you can until you hear a click. Job done! Its not as bad as it may seem.

If your worried about taking on this DIY, don't. If you can take of a bolt you can do this DIY, it is a little scary in regards to the amount of equipment your taking off the car but just label everything, keep some notes on what connections are what and you will be fine.

The part numbers for my 1999 328iSE Saloon (EURO EHD) was:

PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE 11617501566
Vent pipe 11611432559
Connecting Line 11611440317
Lover Vent Hose 11157532649
Return Pipe 11157520035
Vacume Hose Long 11727545323

Accelerator Cable 35411166204
throttle boady gasket 11611716174
Lower Intake Boot 13541435627

Just as a note I would recommend doing an oil and filter change, I had 1000's of small bits of plastic that had come from the broken CCV/Hoses, best to get everything nice and clean again.

I started this project over the weekend even though I did not have the parts yet. I just wanted to make sure I took my time cleaned everything really well and let it all dry before reassembly. I got all my parts today and am really happy I went with the level two oil seperator kit. I live in wisconsin so I got the cold weather kit, and all the extra padding on the hoses couldn't hurt. here a couple of links. If doing this gasket I highly recomend doing this as well if your budget allows. As for my project, everything is going back together quite well other than I ripped the o-ring for the dip stick and the cold weather ccv was a really tight fit. also I am waiting on a torque wrench so progress is halted. I am just thankful I have the oprortunity to take my time as I am learning so much about these cars.

here are the links, PLEASE MAKE SURE TO CHECK REAL OEM AND CROSS REFERENCE PART NUMBERS FOR YOUR SPECIFIC MODEL!!!!!

M54 Oil Separator Kit - Level 2
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...tor/ES1905407/



M54 Oil Separator Kit - Level 2 (COLD CLIMATES VERSION)
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...tor/ES1905414/

Thank you for this!

Sent from my MB860 using Bimmer

I did this job this weekend. It's not that bad with these instructions, but still 7 hrs (first time). Make sure you attach the dipstick hose to the ccv, but leave bottom end to attach to dipstick prior to seating the dipstick (think that's missing from the instructions, but I could be wrong).

A set of long-handled right-angle needle nose pliers are invaluable to reaching hose clips; one of the most useful tools in my arsenal.
It's not on the parts list, replacing the DISA valve o-ring is a good idea. AS568-140 size, in viton, available from mcmaster.com for $6 for 10. Mcmaster part number 9464K151 (Grainger I'm sure has these as well, as well as other vendors). Nominal size is 2 1/4 x 2 7/16 x 3/32

Thanks for the DIY pics and videos of this install. I must say I have worked on and around cars for a good number of years now and can honestly say what a total piece of garbage this oil separator system on these cars are. Everyone of these that need to be replaced should be done so by the "engineer" that designed it. What a nightmare! Any system design other than the one in use could be better. If you have midget fingers and hands it's quite simple, but I guess I did save about $500 plus doing this myself and along with a new DISA valve.....anyways, thanks for the info here in this forum! PS...changing out struts and rear shocks is easier.

Question: Based on the bav auto DIY, they do not replace the dipstick tube/dipstick, is there a reason to replace that as well, or can I leave it be?