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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 03-19-2012, 05:52 PM   #101
Sansho
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You'll need to replace the rubber washer at the base of the dipstick tube, however, there's no reason to replace the dipstick or tube. When you have the dipstick tube out, be sure and use brake cleaner down the drain portion that the rubber hose attaches too, to clear that out. There's a thought that that is one area that gets plugged/clogged over time, inhibiting the CCV from working properly.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:07 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sansho View Post
You'll need to replace the rubber washer at the base of the dipstick tube, however, there's no reason to replace the dipstick or tube. When you have the dipstick tube out, be sure and use brake cleaner down the drain portion that the rubber hose attaches too, to clear that out. There's a thought that that is one area that gets plugged/clogged over time, inhibiting the CCV from working properly.
:BUMP: you mean #12 in this pic?

I could def remove that, especially if you just undo those two bolts and then pull up on it. But they didn't remove it at all in the 3 part bav auto DIY's...
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:14 PM   #103
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For my own reference here, this is what I'll need to do this job completely:

Tish CCV Kit: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462

Dipstick O-ring, Part #11 43 1 740 045

and a new Throttle body gasket: 13 54 7 504 729

And what about the ICV gasket? I'd love to pull it out and clean it while I am in there as I don't think it's ever been touched, EVER. Does it just pull out once you give it a wiggle? Part number- 11611437453


Total shipped to me from Tisch = $188.08
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:24 PM   #104
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Yes, part #12. Given that you're taking a bunch of parts out when you do the CCV, pulling the dipstick tube is as easy as you described, and why wouldn't you so you could clean it, as I described? Replace the CCV and leave a possibly plugged up dipstick tube so oil can't drain back into the sump?

I replaced the Idle regulating valve gasket when I did mine, too. And cleaned the ICV out good with carb/choke cleane, so it moved very freely.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:10 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sansho View Post
Yes, part #12. Given that you're taking a bunch of parts out when you do the CCV, pulling the dipstick tube is as easy as you described, and why wouldn't you so you could clean it, as I described? Replace the CCV and leave a possibly plugged up dipstick tube so oil can't drain back into the sump?

I replaced the Idle regulating valve gasket when I did mine, too. And cleaned the ICV out good with carb/choke cleane, so it moved very freely.
You're the man, I am totally going to do this. I got skeptical reading the moroso breather can thread where the OP says pulling it out made it very difficult to get back in with everything connected.. But he was probably implying about the moroso setup. Not to mention why the f would you wait till it's all reconnected to put the dipstick tube back in? Silly forums...
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:02 PM   #106
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The dipstick o-ring can bind somewhat, lubrication is important, I use silicon grease, you can use clean engine oil if you don't have it, after reading about a lot of people having problems this is how I did it, I lubed it up and positioned the o-ring half way up the dipstick area that goes into the oil pan, inserted dipstick until o-ring contacted oil pan opening and used a screwdriver to gently tuck the o-ring into the pan all the way around, once it was in, I slid the tube all the way in until fully seated, piece of cake, I could see how it could cut the o-ring if I had just forced it. I did mine during my oil pan gasket change, I knew when I did the CCV that I would do the oil pan within two weeks so I left it alone at that time. The old o-ring was very hard, it couldn't have made much of a seal.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:13 PM   #107
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cancel :o

Last edited by samson; 04-28-2012 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:04 AM   #108
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well, I did this job this past weekend, and it was a pain in the a s s. My most difficult area was not the oil dipstick o-ring (which I hope I am not jinxing myself by saying that) - I first tried to place the o-ring back into the tube where the dipstick tube connects to the pan, but that wasn't working as the new o-ring was a tad larger than the original just because it was new.. then i tried putting the o-ring on the dipstick tube itself, but that didn't work, just slipped to the top and wouldn't go in.. so i tried again by putting the o-ring into the oil pan area and then lubed everything up good with new oil and slowly rocked the dipstick tube back and forth and then it slid down and in and to the bottom and was secure. The only thing that I'm slightly worried about is that I shoved the o-ring down the tube and it did not seat. But after I slid it in there, i tugged on it, and it was very secure.. so I'm pretty positive i got it right.

Now, for the rest.. disassembly wasn't that bad, I ended up just breaking the hoses apart, holy Sh8T! that stuff was brittle! Old separator cracked in half, and the tube going to the dipstick was so gunked up at the oil separator connection, i am surprised any vapors/pressure was even going through there!! Top hose connecting to the valve cover that was cracked around the accordion section, broke clean off when I removed the valve cover connection and I didn't even pull that hard, just snapped! nuts... There was also a third nut holding the F'n electric box that the video from Bav auto does not mention that proved to be a major pain in the azz for me because I couldn't figure out why the thing wouldn't move out of the way after I removed the bolt and nut..

Very difficult to put that separator back in there in the proper position due to the foam coating now, very very difficult to get the first hose on that has the 90 degree turn connector. I ended up removing the bracket for the fuel tank breather valve which allowed me to snake, that hose in and up where i could attempt to get it on. But I eventually did, hardest one for me by far was after i had that hose on, and the one going to the dipstick tube on, and had to connect the last hose coming from the valve cover.. that was a BIT*H to get on there just due to the angle and really no way to apply good pressure, even though both connectors were fully lubed up. I'd try for 5 minutes, hands would be killing, move away from car, swear my azz off, then go back and try again, repeat cycle. Did that about 6-7 times before I finally got it. I suggest not screwing the oil separator in until all hose connections are made.. gives you a tiny bit of wiggle room you need to do the job.

Oh, and that flat socket extension tool that the guy in the bav auto video uses to remove the screw holding the brake hose bracket? totally unnecessary, I think that is why he did not remove the DISA valve because it made it look like you needed that tool, so then people think you need it and buy it and you don't even need it at all when removing the DISA valve.

Car's been driving around all weekend and everything seems fine. I think the hoses were so clogged it was forcing oil out of the back lower side of the valve cover, which really pissed me off since I just replaced it maybe a month or two ago... we'll see if that small oil spot stops seeping now or I'll scream.

Hands are killing me, especially finger tips, scratched all up, but the job is done!

Replaced the rubber snorkel on the idle control valve too, but honestly, it was still very pliable and probably did not need to be replaced. I bought the part though, so f-it, it went in, that was hard to remove too, had to use pliers to pull it out.

OK, done venting. Hopefully there is some more beneficial information in this post for someone else who will attempt this in the future.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:05 AM   #109
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Here's some pics of the carnage! Check out the clogging action inside the lower hose that goes to the dipstick, yikes!

all old pieces that I got out:


almost 100% clogged line that goes to the dipstick:


bottom of oil separator:


Inside the Valve Cover connecting hose:
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:40 AM   #110
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i just did this job over the weekend as well. at 65k miles on my 05, the actual oil separator looked fine, the only hose that absolutely needed repairing was the oil dipstick drain plug, it had a massive hole in it below the separator. waiting on my expansion tank to arrive to put eveything back together.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:40 PM   #111
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Did this DIY last week. Totally agree this is a PITA!! But absolutly needed to be done. I was throwing seven codes and when I finally cleared them it had jumped to ten codes. (I drove for a day before I cleared them. May have had something to do with the extra codes.). It has been a week now and no problems.

Some random thoughts on this process:

I am not a wrench turner or a gear head, etc. but I am a bit of a cheapskate (aren't we all if we're on these forums.) This was by far the most complicated thing I've done on a car. Took me about 12hours over several days and numerous beers to get this done.

Read the postings!! There is a lot of info here and I'm grateful for everyone's input.

I didn't use the cold weather CCV. I'm in central TX so I didn't have to fuss with thicker items.

Clean the DISA, ICV, and Throttle body (TB). They are off so you might as well. Mine were pretty dirty. I used CRC'S TB cleaner.

My car has a throttle cable but I didn't have to disconnect the cable. Take out the heat shield next to the brake area this will give you room. Just be sure to reroute the cable properly in its groove/cam/slot on the throttle body.

Be patient with the ICV. Just keep moving it around and pulling and it will come out. Just keep moving and pushing to get back in.

Take pictures along the way and mark your electrical connections and bolts. This helped me when I was putting the ICV/TB/wiring harness back together.

Clean the electrical connections with an electrical cleaner. I used CRC's spray.

Just break the old hoses off.

I connected the hose (the one running from between the intake manifold ports to the CCV) to the CCV first, then ran it up between the manifold ports. I couldn't get enough pressure/leverage to connect them otherwise. There was just enough room to work this hose up. Do not secure the CCV when doing this! There is no room!

I replaced the small vacuum hose running from the CCV to the top of the manifold. Autozone matched it for me. I took the protective wire mesh off the old hose and put it on the new one. It's acts kind of like a Chinese finger trap to take off and on so be patient. Not sure if it's needed but I put it back on anyway.

I just cut the drain hose off the dipstick. I didn't pull the dipstick out.

I hope this helps.
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:52 PM   #112
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Spent 5 hours and 15 minutes replacing my CCV this afternoon. I woulod like to know how they assembled this crap at the factory. What a horrible job. I never did get the separator to dipstick guide tube hose to fully seat and click into place. I'm pretty sure it's not going anywhere due to the friction from the O ring, though. I would seriously consider paying someone to do this if it ever required replacing again. I don't think I would want to do it again. I am not new to turning wrenches. I've replaced camshafts, swapped heads, installed headers on a Corvette on ramps in the driveway, all kinds of things. None of them were as frustrating to me as this stupid CCV replacement. It pisses me off because on paper it shouldn't be that hard. When you actually get into it and start realizing that you have zero room to make your hose connections the frustrations mount rather quickly.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:07 AM   #113
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Well I thought of that, much like yourself when I was doing the same job. I've DIY's basically everything on my E46, but haven't gone so far as to swap a head or replace a camshaft, although those jobs might be more time consuming, but more straight forward than this job. But you have to think to yourself, if it was that hard for you, how could you ever trust another mechanic to do the same job, with the same level of detail/accuracy that you put into it? scary stuff..
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:47 PM   #114
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Did this over the weekend in about 1.5 hours was super easy. I don't know what all the fuss is about this is by far the easiest car I've ever worked on
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:08 AM   #115
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Did this over the weekend in about 1.5 hours was super easy. I don't know what all the fuss is about this is by far the easiest car I've ever worked on
...and then you started to leak some oil...
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #116
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Reconnecting the upper hose from the oil separator is an absolute PITA!!
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:41 PM   #117
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Reconnecting the upper hose from the oil separator is an absolute PITA!!
I am half way done. I totally agreed with you ! The upper hose is a PITA. Especially I bought an Non-OEM one( they don't fit right) I managed to put this new hose back in after many tries. I thought I am all good. Then I could not connect the hose to the valve cover(the connection between the hose and the separator). The stupid new non OEM hose is not flexible although it looks flexible. I have to pause and order a new OEM hose.

I will post a video of these hose later. My advice to everyone that going to do this job, make sure you have another car to use, Be prepare the car will be out of mission for sometime. Patience is the key. No rush.
And more importantly, NO NON OEM PART!!!
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:42 PM   #118
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almost done with this FUN project...I noticed my DISA valve seems like the paint (sensor part) is peeling/flaking off. Anyone else notice this? Not sure if I should try to clean it or just leave it alone.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:46 PM   #119
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nvm it cleaned off, decided to take the chance. car sounds great again nice and quiet!
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:01 PM   #120
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done but still throwing codes

Hi,

Just did this job over the weekend. Major PITA as everyone says.

Question: How quickly should the codes clear after the job is done? Was getting P0171 & P0174 and still am.

Also, here are some additional tips to make the job easier:

1. Big sticking point is of course the first "flexible" hose from the top front of the OS to the manifold spreader. I found the best way to install was to snake it in from the top, then push the top down so the main part of the hose is parallel to the ground. This puts the connector at the right angle to slide on to the OS. Push it on the OS, then rotate it up 90 degrees to lock it into place. None of the main DIY writeups I've seen mention this approach.

2. Other big sticking point is the dipstick tube. It needed a long, bent screwdriver and a light tap from a mallet to get it going. After that, it seated fine. Scratched my head for a long time at that one, since it slid out so easily.

Hope the new OS isn't defective, since I'm still getting codes. That would really suck.

Note: Did this job because car was throwing P0171 & P0174. My usual shop did a slack tube test with value 8 (" H2O I presume?) and they say the max allowed is 6", which points to the CCV. However, they wanted $700 for this, so I decided to DIY. Would I do it again? Maybe. It would be way easier the second time.
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