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Bavarian Soundwerks' Mobile Electronics Forum
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Old 02-21-2003, 10:20 PM   #21
dhtut
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Wiring

Is that Knu Conceptz wiring? Is that as good as everyone says it is? Any test to prove it? It LOOKs good :-)
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Old 02-21-2003, 10:32 PM   #22
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damn looks petty impressive for a diy. more pics. any reason u chose mbquart wooferS? i wasn't realy impressed by them...
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Old 02-22-2003, 06:07 AM   #23
Buddah323i
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dhtut: The wiring is Tsunami more info can be found on there website at http://www.tsunami-autosound.com this wiring performs quite well and looks amazing.

jun 14scr: I wanted to do a car using the same manufacturers equipment this time. I found out over the years that you get better support this way since I compete in sound quality competition. I've personally used only JL subs before but I thought I'd give the Quarts a chance and they did not disappoint they are incredibly accurate and perform quite well for my application. Currently they only have half the power that they will be receiving and will really need the extra power because of the free air application. So for now there staying.

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Old 02-22-2003, 06:12 PM   #24
Yellowmann
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Stan that is cool... I have been into stereo too for long time and always thought of doing that but I heard that if you cut the rear deck the frame becomes weak. So good thing you made another frame for the rear deck to give it strenght. Post more pics... I might have to take a trip up to see it in person since our company has an office there in WP Keep up the great work...
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Old 02-22-2003, 07:01 PM   #25
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Yellowmann: Let me know if your up this way it would be great to meet some people from the board. The rear deck is now more solid that it was when it came from the factory. I was surprised at how much you were able to flex the rear deck before we cut it out.
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:20 PM   #26
low
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that looks awesome...so theres basically a big hole back there in the rear deck when or if you decided to remove the subs?
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Old 02-22-2003, 09:04 PM   #27
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low: Yeah I guess you could say that, all though it wouldn't be hard to add a piece of metal over the hole to cover it up since I have the factory rear deck piece with no hole in it. You'd probably never know it was there. I used a rear deck cover that I found at a salvage yard a buddy at mine works at.
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Old 02-23-2003, 05:20 AM   #28
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looks like a clean install, was going to mount my 13.5W7 in that location, but was talked out of because the back window would disagree or so the shop said
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Old 02-24-2003, 05:02 PM   #29
Delirium
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Stan:

how exact does the scfm on the compressor have to match the air tool? Its hard to find a reasonable priced, small compressor with over 7 scfm @ 40psi or 5 scfm @90psi.

I see that impact wrences use a lot of scfm. & paint guns too...
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Old 04-24-2003, 12:18 PM   #30
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Buddah323i: how hard was it to cut out the metal rear deck? And how did you make & mount that metal frame? that looks like the best way to get rid of rattles..

Did you HAVE to mount the metal frame in there, what about if you fiberglassed it in?
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Old 04-24-2003, 12:54 PM   #31
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This might sound like a stupid question to you but why would you want to fit the tweeters all the way at the bottom instead of near to ear hight????

Looking good, great diy skills
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Old 04-24-2003, 01:55 PM   #32
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High frequencies are the most directional (ie: you can tell where the sound is coming from). Therefore its best to try and have the tweets and midrange located relatively close to eachother. The stock location for the midrange is at the bottom of the door while the stock tweet is closer to ear level. By putting the tweet at the bottom, its closer to the mids.



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This might sound like a stupid question to you but why would you want to fit the tweeters all the way at the bottom instead of near to ear hight????

Looking good, great diy skills
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Old 04-24-2003, 02:33 PM   #33
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Well it all comes down to pathlengths. The more equal they are from the listener the better it will sound in relation to you not sitting in the center of the vehicle. Your always gonna sit closer to the left tweeter and and midbass but with kick panel locations your equalizing the pathlength left and right. I know it sounds confusing. If you need a further explanation I'll try to find something written a little better. Let me know.
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Old 04-24-2003, 02:41 PM   #34
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Delirium - The rear deck was not hard at all to cut out. There were only a couple places in my application that has double sheet metal. The metal frame is made of 1/8 inch angle iron and welded together at the corners. The frame itself is bolted to the car and then Dynamat applied over it.
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Old 04-25-2003, 06:57 AM   #35
Kjetil Somme
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So, when are those pictures of the 6,5" front install coming up? There's a lot of people eager to see the installation!

Please???????



Also; What kind of MB Quart subs have you installed? PWD 304?
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Old 04-25-2003, 09:18 AM   #36
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Buddah323i: How is your soundstage with the tweeters down there? I put mine in the stock mid location because they needed to be closer to the midbasses. Too much separation and too bright with them in the stock tweeter location. The system sounds much better since I moved them but I noticed it did lower my soundstage a bit.

I'm probably answering my own question but does putting them where you did allow them to be aimed better and thereby keeping the soundstage higher?
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Old 04-25-2003, 09:54 AM   #37
Buddah323i
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zameus - My soundstage is pretty high with them in the kicks but it takes more than just throwing them in there. A lot of aiming. I tested them in the car on an adjustable pods for about three weeks. Also it takes alot of under dash reinforcement also which I'm currently working on. Dynamat on all the panels and a soft carpet like surface on all the surfaces that are exposed to eliminate reflections. I also just installed one of the new Clarion center channels with a little bit of modification and strengthening and it sounds great this just solidified the center stage. The center channel is for true 5.1.

Kjetil Somme - I'll tear the doors apart this next week and get the pictures for you. I forgot. Sorry. Subs are PWD254's (10's)
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Old 04-25-2003, 10:59 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by Buddah323i
Delirium - The rear deck was not hard at all to cut out. There were only a couple places in my application that has double sheet metal. The metal frame is made of 1/8 inch angle iron and welded together at the corners. The frame itself is bolted to the car and then Dynamat applied over it.
Thanks for the info, yeah that rear deck feels like cheap thin metal..

Can you tell me if it is dangerous to cut out the rear deck? Meaning, does it add anything to the cars structure or stiffness for performance or safety? It seems very flimsy to actually have a purpose, what is it for?
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Old 04-25-2003, 12:23 PM   #39
dan4081
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Buddah, the parts of the kick panels you added to and installed tweets in, did you use the ones that were in the car or did you get new ones? The reason I ask is I want to do kick panels basically by adding to the stock pieces like you did, but dont want to use my stock pieces in case I want to put it back. Do you have the part #s for those so I dont have to use mine? Thanks
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Old 04-25-2003, 02:04 PM   #40
Buddah323i
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dan4081 - I used my factory kick panels. They were no expensive so I just used mine and if I need to return it to stock one day I will just buy new ones. Sorry I do not have the part number.


Delirium - I don't think it's dangerous or I would not have done it. Actually the way I did it, it's more rigid now than it ever was. So I personally think there is no need to worry if you reinforce it like I did. I did not cut anything that was structural. I just cut in between the structural parts.
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