Is anyone making a non-M specific O2 sim, yet?

Riss Racing keeps telling me they're working on it, but it's been months. Just wondering if anyone else knows of one.

Oh, and please don't respond telling me that software can fix it or to use non-foulers They won't work for my application.

Thanks!

Really interested in this.

I really want headers, but I just went through a giant inspection headache after I installed new O2 sensors. Don't want that problem next year with the crazy inconsistency people are getting with the non-foulers.

Who ever starts selling this, will be making money some serious dough.

Originally Posted by Bimmer Dude Xi

Who ever starts selling this, will be making money some serious dough.

Not really.

They would have the federal government all over their @ss in no time and be fined up the wazzoo. Just Google "caspers electronics EPA" and see for yourself.

So, did Casper's just get in trouble because they didn't advertise them as "off-road use only" or because they sold 44,000 of them?

Originally Posted by NickG

Not really.

They would have the federal government all over their @ss in no time and be fined up the wazzoo. Just Google "caspers electronics EPA" and see for yourself.

Originally Posted by NickG

Not really.

They would have the federal government all over their @ss in no time and be fined up the wazzoo. Just Google "caspers electronics EPA" and see for yourself.

Damn, no wonder. I saw one performance website offering it one day, and a week later it seem like it didn't exist.

Its amazing how american muscle cars can get away it when they emit more unburnt carbons into the air. That ain't right.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pcs-O2-OXYGEN-...3A1|240%3A1318

Is this any good?

Originally Posted by aggieE46

So, did Casper's just get in trouble because they didn't advertise them as "off-road use only" or because they sold 44,000 of them?

Looks kinda like it, but hard to say. Usually if you say "for off-road use only" that seems to work pretty well.

Doesn't seem like it would be too hard to make one anyway. It's just a signal reading between 0-5v if it's a wideband sensor or 0-2v (I forget) for a narrowband sensor.

I'm thinking simply increasing the resistance/lower the voltage that the ECU gets from the O2 sensor would have the same effect as more oxygen or less unburnt fuel.

Why is everyone so set on NOT running O2 sensors?

Being environmentally responsible, and upholding the law aside, have any of you actually smelled the exhaust coming out of our cars without a cat converter? It will make your eyes water!!!!

Unless you are building an off-road race car that won't be idling in traffic or in your driveway, put cats on the car and re-possition the O2 sensors. EOS

For what it's worth, I physically have 2 rear exhaust sections for my "race car". One is the straight 3.5" system, one is a dual 2.25" system with cats. One is for the track, one is for the street.

Originally Posted by pei330ci

Why is everyone so set on NOT running O2 sensors?

Being environmentally responsible, and upholding the law aside, have any of you actually smelled the exhaust coming out of our cars without a cat converter? It will make your eyes water!!!!

Unless you are building an off-road race car that won't be idling in traffic or in your driveway, put cats on the car and re-possition the O2 sensors. EOS

For what it's worth, I physically have 2 rear exhaust sections for my "race car". One is the straight 3.5" system, one is a dual 2.25" system with cats. One is for the track, one is for the street.

Jlevisw is selling Riss Racing o2 sim

I was under the impression that even with cats and relocated sensors that there was still a good possibility of getting CELs periodically. Is this just a myth? I've deliberately avoided headers for this very reason.

Originally Posted by Dannyncc

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pcs-O2-OXYGEN-...3A1|240%3A1318

Is this any good?

+1 and what about M's?

Originally Posted by TxZHP04

I was under the impression that even with cats and relocated sensors that there was still a good possibility of getting CELs periodically. Is this just a myth? I've deliberately avoided headers for this very reason.

What's happening is that the cats being further away from the engine take a little bit longer to heat up. The post-cat O2 sensor is catching this sometimes, and triggers a code. It won't happen every time, but it will happen more often when you starting the engine from being completely cold.

Originally Posted by dannyncc

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pcs-o2-oxygen-...3a1|240%3a1318

is this any good?

hellloooo

Originally Posted by pei330ci

Why is everyone so set on NOT running O2 sensors?

I'm perfectly fine with running O2 sensors. The problem is that I went through a year, $1000 in welding and cats, a month without my car, and 6 months overdue on my inspection (not to mention having to pay for an extra after failing due to poor promises from the software maker) because I insisted on running them. In fact, I never said I didn't want to run cats, I simply need to NOT get a CEL after my header install. I am an environmentally friendly person, believe me. I grew up a Boy Scout. I just want to be able to have my car running with headers and have my car be 100%. I've run with and without cats on the same setup, the power difference wasn't that noticeable. That's not my concern.

Originally Posted by Bimmer Dude Xi

Jlevisw is selling Riss Racing o2 sim

The transaction won't actually go through. Someone has tried to buy them. They only make a sim for the 335 and 135 right now. I email them once every 2 weeks for an update.

Originally Posted by aggieE46

I'm perfectly fine with running O2 sensors. The problem is that I went through a year, $1000 in welding and cats, a month without my car, and 6 months overdue on my inspection (not to mention having to pay for an extra after failing due to poor promises from the software maker) because I insisted on running them. In fact, I never said I didn't want to run cats, I simply need to NOT get a CEL after my header install. I am an environmentally friendly person, believe me. I grew up a Boy Scout. I just want to be able to have my car running with headers and have my car be 100%. I've run with and without cats on the same setup, the power difference wasn't that noticeable. That's not my concern.



The transaction won't actually go through. Someone has tried to buy them. They only make a sim for the 335 and 135 right now. I email them once every 2 weeks for an update.

Aggie you're the man! If you find any new info, keep us updated please! I am in the same boat, only I'm staying away from headers until someone figures out a surefire solution. I went through a crazy hassle when my o2 sensor blew out right before my inspection was due, and racked up a crazy amount of inspired inspection tickets in the process because I couldn't just garage my car for the time being. Don't want to go through that again come around next inspection.

Originally Posted by pei330ci

What's happening is that the cats being further away from the engine take a little bit longer to heat up. The post-cat O2 sensor is catching this sometimes, and triggers a code. It won't happen every time, but it will happen more often when you starting the engine from being completely cold.

That's what I've heard in the past.

I wonder if Nick has anything to contribute regarding what it takes to make relocated cats work without throwing codes? Is this something he solved in the process of developing his turbo?

Why don't you just make you own? Thats how I roll.

Most of them are just RC filters. <$10 and a trip to your local electronics store and your problems will be solved. That is your car is pre '04 I believe.

Go for it. I have a friend who's tried to make them. He said the e46 is a little too complicated for Radio Shack sims.

Originally Posted by KriTiKaL AspecT

Why don't you just make you own? Thats how I roll.

Most of them are just RC filters. <$10 and a trip to your local electronics store and your problems will be solved. That is your car is pre '04 I believe.