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Motorsports & Track Forum
From Auto-X to Trackday to Racing and Professional Motorsports this is the place to discuss making BMWs fast

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Old 04-08-2009, 10:26 PM   #241
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wow it sounds so amazing
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Attractive and stable works for me...I'd rather help wifey program the stove clock than wonder if she purposely left the gas on :eek:


19" vmr v710s| falken 452s 235/265s| orion v2| CF Wrapped trim |35% tint all round| alcantra shift/ebrake boots | HR race
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:00 PM   #242
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ive read all of you threads and love your work it looks impeccable! that car sounds absolutely amazing! *subscribed*
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:47 AM   #243
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I am looking forward to a modification list on top of it.. the awesomeness overshadowed the individual parts/systems.
Thats gonna take a complete new thread, lol tons of mods
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:43 PM   #244
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It's interesting when it comes to the exhaust. I've switched back and forth from a Borla and a Flowmaster muffler. They make absolutely no difference in performance but they sure do sound different. On the Z4, it's got some 2.5" exhaust on it with a single chamber Flowmaster. We have all agreed that it sounds like a fart bomb.

Needless to say, it's going to get a 3" pipe and a Brola just so I don't have to listen to all of the fart bomb comments.
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:08 PM   #245
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It's interesting when it comes to the exhaust. I've switched back and forth from a Borla and a Flowmaster muffler. They make absolutely no difference in performance but they sure do sound different. On the Z4, it's got some 2.5" exhaust on it with a single chamber Flowmaster. We have all agreed that it sounds like a fart bomb.

Needless to say, it's going to get a 3" pipe and a Brola just so I don't have to listen to all of the fart bomb comments.
I bet all the Honda guys are jealous.

I know I am...
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:02 PM   #246
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New tool came in today:



It's known as a "nibbler", and it's for cutting through sheet metal. It takes a little bit of practice to keep steady and straight, but it absolutely devours sheet metal. One of the real strengths of this tool is it's ability to cut curves, most other metal cutting tools only excel at cutting straight.

Some supplies I picked up yesterday:



Aluminum sheets.

And this is what I spent most of today making:





I have a new appreciation for custom sheet metal work on race cars. It's harder than it looks.

And here it is on the car:







It's purpose is to keep the rear bumper from becoming a parachute, and to contain debris and water in the wheel well. As you'll see when I'm done the other side, the rear bumper will be removable completely independent of the sheet metal installed. The idea is to keep the car as modular as possible, so that dis-assembly and assembly is as efficient as possible. As a reminder, the rear bumper is removed for dyno sessions.
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:39 PM   #247
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Damn, that thing revs so fast, thats insane. I haven't had a car that revved that fast since my last RX7. Absolutely killer buildup. What does your motor rev to? I haven't read the whole thread to see if its actually in there
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:51 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pei330ci View Post
New tool came in today:



It's known as a "nibbler", and it's for cutting through sheet metal. It takes a little bit of practice to keep steady and straight, but it absolutely devours sheet metal. One of the real strengths of this tool is it's ability to cut curves, most other metal cutting tools only excel at cutting straight.
This is a nibbler


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Old 04-10-2009, 11:32 PM   #249
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Lol.. they even do the same thing too..
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:33 PM   #250
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ya
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:08 PM   #251
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ya
Nice...

I thought maybe you might post a pic of the Easter Bunny...
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:42 PM   #252
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spent a few hours taking the sedan VANOS apart tonight and found both Helix' to be off - turned slightly right justified..advanced???

so, aligned them and started putting things back together - bolts are lining up better

I wonder if the car/dme adjusted for the messed up alignment and if I should expect a CEL with the new proper setup

this also gave me a chance to install a few new studs and hopefully get a better seal on the VANOS to head (i had a very slight seep that was collecting dust in the damp area)
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:44 AM   #253
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Originally Posted by 330i ZHP View Post
spent a few hours taking the sedan VANOS apart tonight and found both Helix' to be off - turned slightly right justified..advanced???

so, aligned them and started putting things back together - bolts are lining up better

I wonder if the car/dme adjusted for the messed up alignment and if I should expect a CEL with the new proper setup

this also gave me a chance to install a few new studs and hopefully get a better seal on the VANOS to head (i had a very slight seep that was collecting dust in the damp area)
You are correct, your ECU has been compensating for this when not in the "base" position. The cam position sensor picks up the actual camshaft location regardless of the vanos alignment. However, the VANOS system doesn't operate the way most people think. It advances the intake cam position gradually until peak torque at roughly 3600 RPM, then starts to retard the position again returning to 0 degrees advance by 6000 RPM. So your "base" setting for intake is going to affect idle/part throttle, and also the extreme high RPM. The exhaust camshaft position is moved mostly for emissions and idle stability. It's movement is different from the intake cam, and is less "radical".

The VANOS spline turned to the right would be retarded; think of the spline as being in the reference position, and that the cam is rotated backwards. The way that the VANOS works, it will compensate until it hits it's limiting stops. This is what causes VANOS codes, as the VANOS is trying to put the cam into a certain position but won't go. Now that I think of it, I think that I previously stated that my camshaft position was advanced with the splines rotated to the right which was incorrect.

You should not get a CEL from re-aligning the VANOS, however I would have read and cleared the fault codes prior to the re-alignment.

On the VANOS installation, I use Permatex grey hi-temp sealant on both sides of the sealing gasket when installing. No problems, and I've been re-using the same gasket for 4 "installations" so far. I think the 10mm nuts are only supposed to be torqued to like 8 ft/lbs? I also apply sealant in the corner areas of the valve cover...which is basically the entire surface area that comes into contact with the VANOS assembly. Again...no leaks so far...although I've ruined a shirt or 2 forgetting about the fresh silicone on the enigne when installing the valve cover.

Did you red Loctite the splines into position?

What torque value did you use on the fastening bolts?
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:08 PM   #254
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Stuart, it will be interesting to hear if getting things properly aligned has any impact on the "vanos rattle" you've had since installing the Schricks.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:48 PM   #255
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Originally Posted by mrshelley View Post
It's interesting when it comes to the exhaust. I've switched back and forth from a Borla and a Flowmaster muffler. They make absolutely no difference in performance but they sure do sound different. On the Z4, it's got some 2.5" exhaust on it with a single chamber Flowmaster. We have all agreed that it sounds like a fart bomb.

Needless to say, it's going to get a 3" pipe and a Brola just so I don't have to listen to all of the fart bomb comments.
I lol'd
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:31 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pei330ci View Post
You are correct, your ECU has been compensating for this when not in the "base" position. The cam position sensor picks up the actual camshaft location regardless of the vanos alignment. However, the VANOS system doesn't operate the way most people think. It advances the intake cam position gradually until peak torque at roughly 3600 RPM, then starts to retard the position again returning to 0 degrees advance by 6000 RPM. So your "base" setting for intake is going to affect idle/part throttle, and also the extreme high RPM. The exhaust camshaft position is moved mostly for emissions and idle stability. It's movement is different from the intake cam, and is less "radical".

The VANOS spline turned to the right would be retarded; think of the spline as being in the reference position, and that the cam is rotated backwards. The way that the VANOS works, it will compensate until it hits it's limiting stops. This is what causes VANOS codes, as the VANOS is trying to put the cam into a certain position but won't go. Now that I think of it, I think that I previously stated that my camshaft position was advanced with the splines rotated to the right which was incorrect.

You should not get a CEL from re-aligning the VANOS, however I would have read and cleared the fault codes prior to the re-alignment.

On the VANOS installation, I use Permatex grey hi-temp sealant on both sides of the sealing gasket when installing. No problems, and I've been re-using the same gasket for 4 "installations" so far. I think the 10mm nuts are only supposed to be torqued to like 8 ft/lbs? I also apply sealant in the corner areas of the valve cover...which is basically the entire surface area that comes into contact with the VANOS assembly. Again...no leaks so far...although I've ruined a shirt or 2 forgetting about the fresh silicone on the enigne when installing the valve cover.

Did you red Loctite the splines into position?

What torque value did you use on the fastening bolts?
i did not and i think i used 20Nm - sh1t, should I pull the chain and gears off again and loctite those bolts?
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:32 PM   #257
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should i loctite all the little bolts and nuts on the vanos gears
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:03 PM   #258
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Do not use Loctite on ANY of the fasteners for the VANOS.

Here is where I applied the red Loctite:



Let me confirm with a BMW tech what the vanos spline torque should be....I used the break away torque reading on mine...but it may not be correct.
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:08 PM   #259
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I was going to wait until I got the front end finished before showing any images, but I'm simply too excited to wait.

There are 3 cooling systems that need to have air routed to them on the front of the car.

1.) Radiator
2.) Oil Cooler
3.) Brake ducts

For each system, I wanted to have an abundant air supply at speed, be able to filter out large debris, and also have the ability to modulate airflow depending on ambient temps. The bumper structure was to remain untouched, yet clean pathways of air around it were needed.

To complicate the fabrication process, I wanted to have the front end of the car constructed in a modular fashion to make working on components as easy as possible. For example, if I needed to remove the radiator, I didn't want to have to un-rivet 10 pieces of sheet metal to get to it.

I'll be honest, I've made a ton of mistakes over the past few days. Starting with cardboard templates, I've tried to mock up ideas before cutting aluminum sheet. Even then, I've had to re-cut a number of pieces, and sometimes I've had to abandon ideas and start on something new. In the end I found the KISS approach to work best, where I minimized the number of bends and compound angles in structures.

I re-used the OEM 330Ci bumper cover, but have made a number of changes to it. Trial fitment of a new sheet metal panel:



Starting to mock up duct work:



Oil cooler and radiator duct work assembly:



I've finished riveting the driver's side panels, still have to finish cutting and bending the passenger side panels.

Assembly of the following took less than 3 minutes to complete:







I have some concerns about rodents and small children:







The secret to how it all fits:







Hopefully I'll have it all finished tomorrow...I just need to find a 3" hole saw for the brake duct hose.
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:53 PM   #260
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Is the oil cooler just behind the kidneys and above the radiator? I'm trying to figure out why 1/3 of the space above the bumper support gets blocked off if thats not it.

Looks good man, I was thinking last night that I wish I had the motivation to redo all my underpans with AL and put some "ducting" under the car to help move air more quickly and kill front lift. This makes me realize I definitely am not up to that task.
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