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Motorsports & Track Forum
From Auto-X to Trackday to Racing and Professional Motorsports this is the place to discuss making BMWs fast

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Old 04-14-2009, 11:09 PM   #261
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There is no specified torque as the drive only comes with the cams as opposed to the M50/S50 where you can buy the vanos drive gear. That sees a torque of 40nm with a torque angle of 60*
So it's pretty interesting to find out what kind of torque you used to fasten the drive. I guess you could use the standard setting for an 8?mm bolt (I've never had the drive out of a M54), but I am sure there should be an angle torque value.
It's funny in TIS there is a big note "Do not remove bolt"

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Old 04-14-2009, 11:14 PM   #262
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so are you saying the bolt for the helix is torque to yield?
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:22 PM   #263
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so are you saying the bolt for the helix is torque to yield?
I would imagine so. Maybe Adam knows better?

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Old 04-15-2009, 06:48 AM   #264
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Is the oil cooler just behind the kidneys and above the radiator? I'm trying to figure out why 1/3 of the space above the bumper support gets blocked off if thats not it.

Looks good man, I was thinking last night that I wish I had the motivation to redo all my underpans with AL and put some "ducting" under the car to help move air more quickly and kill front lift. This makes me realize I definitely am not up to that task.
Yes, that's the oil cooler.

"Tin work" is definitely harder than it looks.

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There is no specified torque as the drive only comes with the cams as opposed to the M50/S50 where you can buy the vanos drive gear. That sees a torque of 40nm with a torque angle of 60*
So it's pretty interesting to find out what kind of torque you used to fasten the drive. I guess you could use the standard setting for an 8?mm bolt (I've never had the drive out of a M54), but I am sure there should be an angle torque value.
It's funny in TIS there is a big note "Do not remove bolt"

Marc
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so are you saying the bolt for the helix is torque to yield?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwwksmarc View Post
I would imagine so. Maybe Adam knows better?

Marc
It took approximately 60 ft/lbs of force to break mine loose with a T50 torqx head. That's what I re-torqued mine to, but I made sure all the threads were completely dry and free from any oil. I was focusing more on the "feel" of the bolt than the torque though.

This is definitely not something you want to mess up. The helix gears and the bolts are not listed individually on the parts listing...you would have to buy a complete new OEM camshaft to retrieve them. I do have one source I can check...maybe BMW Motorsport has some "pull" back at the factory.
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:00 AM   #265
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Nice sheet metal work. You've put a lot of work into the cooling on the car. I'm sure it'll pay off.

Okay, we're ready for dyno time again Hopefully you can get the car up to temp!
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:24 PM   #266
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It appears that you have chosen not to incorporate any sort of diffuser in your rear end modifications. Did you consider doing so and why did you choose not to?
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:50 PM   #267
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Nice sheet metal work. You've put a lot of work into the cooling on the car. I'm sure it'll pay off.

Okay, we're ready for dyno time again Hopefully you can get the car up to temp!
Thanks.

There is a reason why I've gone so far with the cooling, but I don't want to say just yet.

I'm still waiting on the smallest nitrous jets known to man to show up. LOL Then I'll go to the dyno.

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It appears that you have chosen not to incorporate any sort of diffuser in your rear end modifications. Did you consider doing so and why did you choose not to?
Pretty simple answer: I didn't see any successful E46 race cars with them. If the Bimmerworld, PTG, and TMS cars had had them, I probably would have gone that route.

At some point down the road I'll look into aerodynamics a lot more seriously, but for the moment, I don't even have a front splitter or spoiler on the car. What I've learned from the pro racing world in this area, is that you want to test everything to find out what really works. I don't have sensors on the car yet to accurately log what "aero" is really doing, so until I do, I'm going to focus on chassis setup which is a lot more tangible.

For now, I consider the bottom of the fuel cell as my diffuser.
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Old 04-16-2009, 12:50 PM   #268
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You are correct, your ECU has been compensating for this when not in the "base" position. The cam position sensor picks up the actual camshaft location regardless of the vanos alignment. However, the VANOS system doesn't operate the way most people think. It advances the intake cam position gradually until peak torque at roughly 3600 RPM, then starts to retard the position again returning to 0 degrees advance by 6000 RPM. So your "base" setting for intake is going to affect idle/part throttle, and also the extreme high RPM. The exhaust camshaft position is moved mostly for emissions and idle stability. It's movement is different from the intake cam, and is less "radical".

The VANOS spline turned to the right would be retarded; think of the spline as being in the reference position, and that the cam is rotated backwards. The way that the VANOS works, it will compensate until it hits it's limiting stops. This is what causes VANOS codes, as the VANOS is trying to put the cam into a certain position but won't go. Now that I think of it, I think that I previously stated that my camshaft position was advanced with the splines rotated to the right which was incorrect.

You should not get a CEL from re-aligning the VANOS, however I would have read and cleared the fault codes prior to the re-alignment.

On the VANOS installation, I use Permatex grey hi-temp sealant on both sides of the sealing gasket when installing. No problems, and I've been re-using the same gasket for 4 "installations" so far. I think the 10mm nuts are only supposed to be torqued to like 8 ft/lbs? I also apply sealant in the corner areas of the valve cover...which is basically the entire surface area that comes into contact with the VANOS assembly. Again...no leaks so far...although I've ruined a shirt or 2 forgetting about the fresh silicone on the enigne when installing the valve cover.

Did you red Loctite the splines into position?

What torque value did you use on the fastening bolts?
I have a question for you. Do you have to realign the camshaft using the special alignment tool everytime you take your VANOS apart? The reason I ask is because I will be rebuilding my VANOS using the Beisan System this summer.

http://beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm

You did mention in your thread that every time you put your VANOS back together it was just a little diffrent then before. When I rebuild my vanos is it a good idea to apply the red loctite to he helix as stated in your thread?
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:12 PM   #269
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I have a question for you. Do you have to realign the camshaft using the special alignment tool everytime you take your VANOS apart? The reason I ask is because I will be rebuilding my VANOS using the Beisan System this summer.

http://beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm

You did mention in your thread that every time you put your VANOS back together it was just a little diffrent then before. When I rebuild my vanos is it a good idea to apply the red loctite to he helix as stated in your thread?
The link you have included above is only for VANOS piston removal and repair. Everything listed on that link is correct.

What Stuart and I are talking about is the removal of the pieces that attach to the VANOS piston assembly, and for that you need a lot more tools.

You do not need to do any sort of alignment when repairing the VANOS piston assembly.

Unless you have replaced your OEM camshafts with Schrick parts, you don't have anything to worry about regarding the camshaft splines.
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:31 PM   #270
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everything back together this AM and started - no CEL. I will drive it this afternoon to see if any CELs pop
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:01 PM   #271
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Good news. ^^
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:58 PM   #272
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everything back together this AM and started - no CEL. I will drive it this afternoon to see if any CELs pop
Good to hear.

I'm still waiting on these pesky nitrous jets....

This just gives me more time to work on other things though. Today was a "write off" with errands and family stuff taking priority....hopefully tomorrow I'll be back at the duct work.

On another note, I've been shopping for a generator to take to the race track with me. This will be to power the car between track sessions/passes and also to keep the nitrous bottles warm. To be honest, I won't be able to run the car at the drag strip without it....
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:03 PM   #273
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Good to hear.

I'm still waiting on these pesky nitrous jets....

This just gives me more time to work on other things though. Today was a "write off" with errands and family stuff taking priority....hopefully tomorrow I'll be back at the duct work.

On another note, I've been shopping for a generator to take to the race track with me. This will be to power the car between track sessions/passes and also to keep the nitrous bottles warm. To be honest, I won't be able to run the car at the drag strip without it....
10 second quarter mile electric car.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:16 PM   #274
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drove the car for about 45min in varying traffic environments and no CELs, the car runs smoother and feels stronger

Thank you Adam and TMS
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:35 AM   #275
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This is an awesome build, wow
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:38 PM   #276
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drove the car for about 45min in varying traffic environments and no CELs, the car runs smoother and feels stronger

Thank you Adam and TMS
Good to hear!

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This is an awesome build, wow
Thanks!

Long time no post...
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:45 PM   #277
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well, it happened today - i started the car and it popped a CEL right away - P0011 and P0014 - both cams advanced...so i cleared the codes in hopes that the car is just basing this data off the previously retarded cams

or

I will be tearing the top end apart again..ugh
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:21 PM   #278
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Front radiator and oil cooler duct work is finished:



And so is the front bumper:





Bumper installed on the car after sanding for paint:



Prep'd for paint:



Primer'd:



In the midst of multiple coats of paint:



Trial fit of painted bumper on car:



Painting the duct work on the car:





Finished:



Installing bumper/cover:





Finished:





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Old 04-18-2009, 09:38 PM   #279
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i like - although the R makes me think of the R32
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:39 PM   #280
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I'm running the Bimmerworld brake cooling kit which includes forced air rotor backing plates, and all the duct work.

Here is how the driver's side ducting was installed:







Passenger's side ducting:







Excuse the dirty wheel wells...it's mostly sand from driving the car around the parking lot outside.

With all the body work finished, I decided to weigh the car to see where we were at:





That's with me sitting in the driver's seat, the fuel tank has been pumped empty, nitrous tank removed, I don't have the window nets installed yet, and the side skirts have been left off. So there's still another 10 Lbs of "stuff" to add to the car, and 80 lbs of fuel for road racing. So just under 3100 Lbs track ready.

For drag racing the nitrous tank is 25 Lbs, and I'll probably run 30 Lbs of fuel, but I'll remove the passenger seat and belts which is approximately 25 lbs. So just under 3050 Lbs ready for the drag strip. There is more weight that I can remove, but we'll save those tricks for a little later in the year.
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