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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-11-2009, 08:17 AM   #21
jbeurotech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadfart View Post
The parts I replaced were defective. Vanos rattle gone. Broken thermostat replaced. Cracked intake boots replaced. Goose honk from CCV fixed with replacement. Learn how to read. The parts I replaced had issues, I didn't blindly replace them. I'm glad you're easily amused. Simple things for simple minds.

This forum is here to help each other resolve problems. If you have nothing positive to contribute to this website why don't you get the **** out?
I could leave but I won't I also help alot of people on this site, I help people DIAGNOSE cars I will not help people throw parts at cars there is a difference a little searching would do some good, and show that I do my fair share of help. But no Big deal I will leave your threads be if you would like. i was just trying to offer some advise.
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:46 AM   #22
TxZHP04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadfart View Post
The parts I replaced were defective. Vanos rattle gone. Broken thermostat replaced. Cracked intake boots replaced. Goose honk from CCV fixed with replacement. Learn how to read. The parts I replaced had issues, I didn't blindly replace them. I'm glad you're easily amused. Simple things for simple minds.

This forum is here to help each other resolve problems. If you have nothing positive to contribute to this website why don't you get the **** out?
It's good that you found and fixed a few other problems along the way but the fact remains that you still haven't solved your original cold idle problem. Seth has a very valid point about needing to perform a proper diagnostic to get to the root of this problem. In fact, Seth has previously posted a number of threads with info on how to perform some of this diagnostic work yourself should you prefer not to seek professional help. But hey, it's a free country. Proceed as you see fit.

Also try to keep in mind that people around here will be less likely to help you out if they feel that you are going to go off on them simply because you don't like or agree with their advice.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:17 PM   #23
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I have the same cold idle problems... My car has been to 3 different mechanics. Currently at BMW... they can't figure it out yet. No codes.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:28 PM   #24
Colemanator02
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Normally I stay out of pissing matches, but the one time I really needed advice, I PMed JBeurotech and he got back to me by the end of the day, with good advise. But, OP, it sounds like you know your way around the garage, so carry on..
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:31 PM   #25
jbeurotech
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Guys I really don't think its a pissing match I believe he misunderstood and took offense to the way I tried to get my point across. Which I admit was a bit harsh it was late at night. I don't really think there is an issue.
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General Questions can be sent to appointment@jbeurotech.com

1. Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
2. Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:26 PM   #26
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Just a misunderstanding. I took it the wrong way and I must admit I was also out of line with my comment as it was late and I was frustrated after wrenching on the car.

To give some more information on the issue, after finding out my thermostat was bad I did contact an indy shop which I found on bimrs.org. They quoted me $1200 to replace the thermo, water pump and the belts. Absolutely rediculous. I ordered $160 in parts and replaced them myself.

After having the cold start issues, I did a lot of researching on here and turned out that I had the same part failure that caused others cold idle issues. My intake boot was torn (replaced), CCV goose honk randomly at stoplights (replaced), etc etc. So the parts weren't replaced at random.

Seth, you're right. I'm tired of working on the car with no end result and hopefully a shop will be able to find out what's going on. I'll update the thread once I find out. Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:32 PM   #27
jbeurotech
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Originally Posted by Toadfart View Post
Just a misunderstanding. I took it the wrong way and I must admit I was also out of line with my comment as it was late and I was frustrated after wrenching on the car.

To give some more information on the issue, after finding out my thermostat was bad I did contact an indy shop which I found on bimrs.org. They quoted me $1200 to replace the thermo, water pump and the belts. Absolutely rediculous. I ordered $160 in parts and replaced them myself.

After having the cold start issues, I did a lot of researching on here and turned out that I had the same part failure that caused others cold idle issues. My intake boot was torn (replaced), CCV goose honk randomly at stoplights (replaced), etc etc. So the parts weren't replaced at random.

Seth, you're right. I'm tired of working on the car with no end result and hopefully a shop will be able to find out what's going on. I'll update the thread once I find out. Thanks.
No rpblem you can continue to work on it yourself, but you need a plan of Attack!!! What scan tools do you have acces to you will need them to give you some basic info. As far as the shop deal, we are hear to make a living and be in business. Remember the shop owner tech and service adviser all have to be at a shop to make it work and all need to get paid. No different than buying a steak at walmart vs a 5 start restaurant. Ever look at a hospital bill they will bill you 20 per aspirin, Everyone has to make a profit
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Seth Thorson
Service Manager/BMW Tech
JB Eurotech Service "Your Reasonable Dealer Alternative"

General Questions can be sent to appointment@jbeurotech.com

1. Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
2. Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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Old 03-11-2009, 04:53 PM   #28
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Remove and clean your idle control valve. This is at the end of the small air intake boot branch that was cracked.
You should also spray clean the throttle body which is at the end of the large air intake boot branch.

Take out the DISA valve and check it. This is a black box 4" high x 6" wide attached to the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF sensor. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. Check for any broken parts. On 01+ cars the DISA has an orange gasket built in at the base. This shrinks and does not seal well. Wrap it with one layer of electric tape half width. Cut a 6" piece of eclectic tape and place it on a table. Cut it half width with a razor. This will make the DISA connection with the intake manifold tight and prevent a vacuum leak.

Are you using an aftermarket oiled air filter like K&N? This can foul the MAF sensor. Disconnect the MAF sensor electrical connector and see if the problems completely resolve. If the problems completely resolve then the problem MIGHT be a dirty or failing MAF sensor.
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:32 AM   #29
Toadfart
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Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
No rpblem you can continue to work on it yourself, but you need a plan of Attack!!! What scan tools do you have acces to you will need them to give you some basic info. As far as the shop deal, we are hear to make a living and be in business. Remember the shop owner tech and service adviser all have to be at a shop to make it work and all need to get paid. No different than buying a steak at walmart vs a 5 start restaurant. Ever look at a hospital bill they will bill you 20 per aspirin, Everyone has to make a profit
I have a universal OBDII code reader and the car is not throwing any codes. Would a different code reader reveal other codes I am not able to pull with the OBDII reader?
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:36 AM   #30
Toadfart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Remove and clean your idle control valve. This is at the end of the small air intake boot branch that was cracked.
You should also spray clean the throttle body which is at the end of the large air intake boot branch.

Take out the DISA valve and check it. This is a black box 4" high x 6" wide attached to the intake manifold adjacent to the MAF sensor. The flap should rotate with resistance and spring back when released. Check for any broken parts. On 01+ cars the DISA has an orange gasket built in at the base. This shrinks and does not seal well. Wrap it with one layer of electric tape half width. Cut a 6" piece of eclectic tape and place it on a table. Cut it half width with a razor. This will make the DISA connection with the intake manifold tight and prevent a vacuum leak.

Are you using an aftermarket oiled air filter like K&N? This can foul the MAF sensor. Disconnect the MAF sensor electrical connector and see if the problems completely resolve. If the problems completely resolve then the problem MIGHT be a dirty or failing MAF sensor.
Thanks Rajaie. Those things are the first things that I did. No aftermarket filter. First thing I did was clean the MAF and then the ICV. I also checked the DISA and it springs back pretty good and I also put a very thin strip of sensor safe and high temp RTV around the orange gasket area.

The car didn't die on me after work tonight, maybe the car just needs time to adjust? I know how to reset the throttle position adaptation, is there a way to reset the DME?
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:57 AM   #31
jbeurotech
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You need a tool that will give you live values just not the codes. Codes are not that usefull other than to tell you what area to look at.
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Seth Thorson
Service Manager/BMW Tech
JB Eurotech Service "Your Reasonable Dealer Alternative"

General Questions can be sent to appointment@jbeurotech.com

1. Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
2. Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:11 AM   #32
Toadfart
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Originally Posted by jbeurotech View Post
You need a tool that will give you live values just not the codes. Codes are not that usefull other than to tell you what area to look at.
Well. I got in the car to drive to work this morning. Car died a few times like it normally does in the morning. Go to start it again and the motor goes haywire and the rpm is irratic bouncing from 500-1000 real fast. Ends up throwing P1634 and P16A3. Tried resetting codes and resetting throttle adaptation (10 seconds on II and 10 seconds on I) with same results. Looks like I might have it towed to a shop.
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Old 03-14-2009, 07:52 AM   #33
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I think I know what JBEeurotech is talking about. My neighbor has on of those diagnostic test cumputers or whatever is called. It shows you anythink in the car and it gives you point to point directions. And it has different chips for models and years and a bunch of other stuff. I dont know what it costs but perhaps in the thousands.
Toadfart sorry I cant help you, you have done everything I would have come up with too. I hope the shop can help you or at least guide you in the right direction.
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