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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW! |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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Transmission removal trouble... Please help!
I'm pulling the transmission in my car to replace the clutch and flywheel. In getting the last two bolts off the transmission, I ran into a lot of resistance and had an impossible time getting the bolts loose. They don't appear to be corroded, so I used a little heat and a lot of Liquid Wrench to try to loosen things up. A lot of elbow grease got the first bolt out and I was pleased until a chunk of the block fell off where the bolt threads into the block.
I'm on the last bolt now and am having trouble with it too... I have tried different amounts of support with my transmission check (cross brace is still in place) but this has not helped. The flywheel and clutch were replaced several years ago by an independent shop and I'm wondering if they severely overtorqued these two bolts. The threads don't look healthy to me, but I don't know why the threads look like they do. So any thoughts on how this can be repaired? |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sunnyvale, CA <-- Ithaca, NY <-- dirty jerz (201) Useful Posts: 25
Posts: 131,358
My Ride: E46 332i,M3;E30 325i
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Looks like those bolts were put on with an impact.
It should be possible to repair with an aluminum brazing rod and a tap to redo the threads.
__________________
-Kalim
(klx photo studio) ![]() M3 drive train conversion (S54 Swap, LSD, 6MT, suspension linkage) | UUC Stg 2 Organic Clutch | OEM M-Tech II Kit KW V2 | BBS GT4 RE | Falken FK452 | Alcon 6-pot 365mm BBK | M3 steering wheel | Powerflex bushings |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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hmmm first of all the fact that the piece broke off is severely bad, and yea I would definitely say that they were over-torqued.
Judging by the absence of threads on the half of the bolt hole, the stretched part of the bolt ripped them out on the way out. My first suggestion would be to get the other one out if at all possible and like cyber said, you may be able to get a machine shop to fix your block hopefully (if not thats $$$$) and then you should run a tap in the holes which hopefully have not been destroyed beyond repair by whatever the indy shop did But honestly even if you were to get it repaired it still isn't a "recommended" repair by most but it still may work Last edited by birdman323e46; 09-25-2012 at 07:38 PM. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the input guys. Just to clarify, the piece that broke off broke off the engine. The front of the car is to the left and the transmission is to the right... The bolt unthreads and pulls out on the right side of the picture.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Ouch. I have nothing to offer but would be curious to see what the bolts look like. It looks like the were put in at an angle and stripped, cross threaded and way over torqued. Good luck and keep us updated.
Green Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Bimmer App |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I can post a picture of the bolt later but it looks fine to me. I'm not a pro mechanic by any means, but I don't see how unthreading could have done this. That said, I'm wondering if there is something I can do to protect the last mount point because it is taking an equally tremendous amount of force to get out. My impact can't touch it and it takes all of my strength on an 18" breaker bar to make progress in 40 degree increments.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sunnyvale, CA <-- Ithaca, NY <-- dirty jerz (201) Useful Posts: 25
Posts: 131,358
My Ride: E46 332i,M3;E30 325i
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Unfortunately, sounds like the thread on the last one is going to be trashed, too. Use plenty of WD-40 and keep unscrewing the bolt. If the material surrounding it doesn't fall apart, you will most likely want to time-sert it.
__________________
-Kalim
(klx photo studio) ![]() M3 drive train conversion (S54 Swap, LSD, 6MT, suspension linkage) | UUC Stg 2 Organic Clutch | OEM M-Tech II Kit KW V2 | BBS GT4 RE | Falken FK452 | Alcon 6-pot 365mm BBK | M3 steering wheel | Powerflex bushings |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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So I dropped by my mechanic's shop one morning this past week. They had seen this before. They described that corrosion build-up on the tips of the mounting bolts will destroy the threads as you remove the bolt. Seems like a reasonable hypothesis, although I didn't see anything that I thought was severe enough to do this... With this in mind I worked on the last remaining bolt for a couple of hours, carefully threading and unthreading with lots of AeroKroil to try to keep the threads clean. After making it no further than ~0.5" the ear on the block cracked. I've contacted a mobile welder.
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#9 |
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OEM ///Member
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Sucks. I wonder if it will be easy to find welder who can weld aluminum....
__________________
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