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Old 03-02-2009, 07:41 AM   #1
sammk
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CCV/PCV/Oil separator failure

Hello everyone - My CCV decided to throw up last night (ambient temperatures in the teens). I am familiar with this issue and what I would like to hear from the board is about the latest and greatest fixes. The car is currently at the dealer (not my usual one), and I would like to be better informed when I go in later this morning.

I understand that there is an insulated valve available, but this does not seem to be much more robust. I also hear that there is a heated manifold/valve of some sort - can someone shed details and throw in PNs? I understood the 4-5 hoses connected to it are better replaced; anything else to replace/inspect?

Since the dipstick spewed oil and made groaning noises as the engine was shut down, I believe that the CCV is stuck shut. There was also a bit of oil fore of the engine, what is the chance that the valve cover gasket has failed?
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:40 AM   #2
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Any midwest/east coast drivers with some words of wisdom...?
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:54 PM   #3
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Yes, there's a big chance that the valve cover gasket has blown due to the hydro lock.

There's no real fix for this, the insulated CCV only going to help a bit but it is not a real fix. However, you can help it by driving a bit harder and avoid short trips especially in the Winter time.

But definitely get the insulated kit ( cold climax one)
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:58 PM   #4
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What are the signs that the CCV failed? How many miles on your car? I'm at 143K, and have a minor oil leak so I'm concerned about CCV going bad too.
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:56 PM   #5
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But definitely get the insulated kit ( cold climax one)
Did you mean cold climate? LOL

It is not only insulated, but heated, so you have to run wires to it, and it costs about $600. I have a 42 mile (each way) commute, so I get plenty warmed up without it, but if you only have 5-10 miles to go (or less) and it gets into the teens, you are, apparently, more likely to suffer deleterious effects without the heated unit.
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:00 PM   #6
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Did you mean cold climate? LOL

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Old 03-02-2009, 05:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by old'n'slow View Post
Did you mean cold climate? LOL

It is not only insulated, but heated, so you have to run wires to it, and it costs about $600. I have a 42 mile (each way) commute, so I get plenty warmed up without it, but if you only have 5-10 miles to go (or less) and it gets into the teens, you are, apparently, more likely to suffer deleterious effects without the heated unit.
yikes i'd better start taking an extended route to school
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:06 PM   #8
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:39 PM   #9
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Did you mean cold climate? LOL

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Old 03-02-2009, 09:33 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the replies. I am in holding pattern to hear back from BMW, expect to know tomorrow. No loaner, car at dealer; bummer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by botaman View Post
Yes, there's a big chance that the valve cover gasket has blown due to the hydro lock.

There's no real fix for this, the insulated CCV only going to help a bit but it is not a real fix. However, you can help it by driving a bit harder and avoid short trips especially in the Winter time.

But definitely get the insulated kit ( cold climax one)
Noted; any other seals that commonly blow as a result? Front or rear main seal, oil pan gasket/RTV?

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Originally Posted by kyle808 View Post
What are the signs that the CCV failed? How many miles on your car? I'm at 143K, and have a minor oil leak so I'm concerned about CCV going bad too.
53k mi; if you are in a warm place, the CCV will not freeze. You may have other failure modes associated with it though; for eg., dust, soot and age can affect it. At your mileage, you should have been through two valves preventatively.

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Originally Posted by old'n'slow View Post
Did you mean cold climate? LOL

LOL

It is not only insulated, but heated, so you have to run wires to it, and it costs about $600. I have a 42 mile (each way) commute, so I get plenty warmed up without it, but if you only have 5-10 miles to go (or less) and it gets into the teens, you are, apparently, more likely to suffer deleterious effects without the heated unit.
Very interested, is the heated part OEM or aftermarket? Can you post PNs?

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yikes i'd better start taking an extended route to school
And me, to my work.

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Been there, was my one-stop reference on this topic.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:20 PM   #11
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Update is that BMW will transplant the heated CCV valve into my engine and take care of all the collateral damage (valve cover gasket, intake, throttle body etc.). However, they do want me to pick up the cost of an oil change, belt, hoses and clamps. Somewhat fair deal, since the car is coming up on an oil change (although I usually do my own oil changes at 1/4 the cost) and the others are not big-ticket.
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:49 PM   #12
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How much is the oil level affected by the CCV/PCV/oil separator? Is an oil change necessary when completing this job, or simply topping it off?

Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:37 PM   #13
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An oil change is not needed if replacing the valve preventatively. However, if it fails, it usually causes a huge leakage which you would have to replenish.

Edit - If your question was about how the oil separator affects oil consumption, a valve that is going bad - one that stays open more than normal - will cause oil to be burnt up faster and therefore increased oil usage.

Last edited by sammk; 03-03-2009 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 03-06-2009, 06:21 PM   #14
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Hi guys, I am new to the board and I was wondering if anyone knows of a DIY to replace the CCV and the hoses connected to it? If anyone has a link then can you please email it to me at dinot71@gmail.com Have a good night
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Old 03-06-2009, 07:11 PM   #15
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Update is that BMW will transplant the heated CCV valve into my engine and take care of all the collateral damage (valve cover gasket, intake, throttle body etc.). However, they do want me to pick up the cost of an oil change, belt, hoses and clamps. Somewhat fair deal, since the car is coming up on an oil change (although I usually do my own oil changes at 1/4 the cost) and the others are not big-ticket.
That's a very fair deal.
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Old 03-07-2009, 02:33 AM   #16
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That's a very fair deal.
Whichever way you cut the pie, this failure mode and any related expense is simply unacceptable on a premium car with just over 50k mi. Further, the replacement part is the insulated type, and the tech tells me that there is no surety that it will not fail again next winter.

Here is what was replaced - CCV and hoses, disptick tube and valve cover seals (turns out the heated CCV, throttle body and intake was just the service guy giving me misinformation).

I understand that the E90s come with a heated valve. Has anyone installed such a setup in the M54?
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:34 PM   #17
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hey sammk,

I know that this thread has been dead for well over a year, but I am currently investigating oil loss and CCV Valve failure symptoms. I have come across quite a few horror stories about blow gaskets, and valve covers, and oil spewing everywhere. Seems like if left undiagnosed, it could be costly. I had my CCV valve changed last year, but the winters here in VA are getting colder, and I expect many days with the temperatures in the teens this winter also. as preventative checking I wanted to know if you knew what the part no was for the heated/insulated valve. I also read that you were a DIYer, so did you ever get a chance to look how the dealer ran the heater wires to the new valve, and if the heated valvle replacement can be a DIY?

Thanks.

Last edited by kjsgadh; 09-30-2010 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:36 PM   #18
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You probably don't need the cold weather version. It's mostly intended for below zero temps, but if you insist you can check www.realoem.com and find the part number there.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:07 PM   #19
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use good oil, IMO it shouldnt clog quickly with good oil.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:16 PM   #20
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hey sammk,
I had my CCV valve changed last year, but the winters here in VA are getting colder, and I expect many days with the temperatures in the teens this winter also. as preventative checking I wanted to know if you knew what the part no was for the heated/insulated valve. I also read that you were a DIYer, so did you ever get a chance to look how the dealer ran the heater wires to the new valve, and if the heated valvle replacement can be a DIY?

Thanks.
Last winter we didn't see above 0 for at least a month i believe, try that
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