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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 12-09-2014, 06:13 PM   #1
Kye7
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Question about oil changes and motor flush

I'm about 3000 miles into a synthetic change done at lube n go. Now that I'm more experienced in cars I'm not sure I completely trust their work. So! I want to do it myself.

About 1000 miles ago, I changed my Valve Cover Gasket to find it all cracked, and also the top of my engine and deep down in there was some sludge, I managed to get all of it out that I could.

I hear that the capacity for our engines (2003 330xi) is about 7.2l. Is this correct?

I wanted to use GUNK's motor flush to try to get some more of the sludge out.
What I want to know is, is this a good idea?
I thinking I would drain my old oil, buy some cheap wal-mart brand conventional oil and put that in my engine with the engine flush, let it run for about 10 minutes, then drain it again. Then fill it with my regular Mobil 1 syn oil.
Obviously replacing the oil filter afterwards.

Would it be harmful to run conventional oil in my engine for 10 minutes? I doubt it.

Opinions and feedback are appreciated, thank you!

Last edited by Kye7; 12-10-2014 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:10 AM   #2
Solidjake
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Yes, lube n go, whatever they are called. All of those quick oil change places are complete garbage and they do more harm then good. Don't go there anymore.


Personally I haven't used any engine flush products. I would just give the car a nice long drive, give it some good high rpm's here and there before your oil change and just keep doing so.
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:12 PM   #3
Kye7
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That won't clean out any of my engine sludge - And doesn't offer me any insight as to if it's a good idea to use a cheap oil to flush the gunk out, or if regular oil will harm my engine (for 10 minutes idling while the flush does its job)
Yes, I'm doing all the oil changes on my cars now, won't be needing their services anymore!

Last edited by Kye7; 12-10-2014 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:46 PM   #4
hitbyastick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kye7 View Post
...synthetic change done at lube n go. Now that I'm more experienced in cars...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kye7 View Post
That won't clean out any of my engine sludge
Lube N Go is a no-no. Proof of your inexperience right there. It would be wise for you to wise up and follow the solid advice given by Solidjake. You apparently do not understand oil dynamics.

If you knock that oil sludge off too quickly and it plugs up any oil passages, you are going to be replacing an engine. U betta reckonize.

The best way to go about it, if the engine is otherwise running fine, is to do it gradually over time with a quality oil that has an ester base, such as Redline. It will slowly dissolve the sludge and deposit it into the filter where it belongs. Because why ruin an otherwise properly running engine? Why do any extra work when you don't have to?

Follow the advice given to you for free by those who know exponentially more than you know about the subject for which you asked advice. Good advice in itself.
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Last edited by hitbyastick; 12-10-2014 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:33 PM   #5
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As I was saying... I am much more experienced now and have done all the maintenance objects on my car, Bently manual and all, as well as maintenance on my other two cars including oil changes, just not on this car because it was done only 3000 miles ago. Which is why I said I don't trust Lube n' go anymore, you even quoted me on the part too. No need to discredit

I'm aware of the oil passage concern, but has anyone actually had this happen to them? I've read around countless posts on here and other E46 Forums and never seen anyone have that problem.

Idles a bit rough when in drive, other than that, it is running fine, I'm repairing my DISA valve though as soon as it ships.
Are there any other oils that are ester based? $45 for 5qt of Redline is ludicrous.

Still wanting to know - Will conventional oil in my engine have adverse effects if it's in there for 10 minutes? I know engines are pretty tough, but being BMW, I can never know.

Last edited by Kye7; 12-10-2014 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:39 AM   #6
athayer187
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Regular changes with a good synthetic (M1 is fine) will gradually break up deposits. That's what you want, they're not doing any harm where they are, and will eventually go away.
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:48 AM   #7
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Ok, to give you a straight answer. No, a short run with regular high quality mineral oil will not hurt your engine.

It will still experience more wear than it would with a high quality synthetic. Especially during start-ups.

That all being said, If you wanted to do 1-2 quick succession oil changes for the sake of cleaning the engine out using some decent mineral oil that is fine.

I would not however recommend using any cleaning/sludge removal additives. Those things are very hard on engines and frankly are not usually necessary. Just give her a couple quick oil changes. Like the good advice others have already given you, get it nice and hot before each change.
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:31 AM   #8
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It seems that you were seeking approval for something you already made your mind up to do. You didn't get the response that you wanted and dismissed Solidjake's and others advice. I imagine your next thread will be seeking advice for the strange burning smell coming from the engine.
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:36 AM   #9
Kye7
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Thank you! I'll change the oil on quicker intervals then.
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:02 AM   #10
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I did flushed my E60 with liqui- moly engine flush! you add it to the oil and after 200 km of driving u replace oil and filter! only bad thing was my vanos gasket developed a leak! and was dripping oil after on coolant hose! nevertheless after I did my vanos seals and I can tell you my upper part of engine was very very clean! car had around 180000 km.
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Old 12-28-2014, 05:11 PM   #11
Kye7
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I did flushed my E60 with liqui- moly engine flush! you add it to the oil and after 200 km of driving u replace oil and filter! only bad thing was my vanos gasket developed a leak! and was dripping oil after on coolant hose! nevertheless after I did my vanos seals and I can tell you my upper part of engine was very very clean! car had around 180000 km.
I hear that flushes are only designed to sit in your engine for 5-20 minutes, and letting the car idle. Because the flush is very strong and can be harmful to your seals. Did you follow the directions on the liqui-moly container? I have never heard of driving so far with an engine flush inside of your engine. Perhaps this is why you developed a leak?
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:52 AM   #12
grimma
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I know what you think but I bought the liqui moly 'can' which had instructions to add the product in the engine oil and drive like this for 200 km of normal driving - after that oil and filter replacement! For be sure I found another liqui moly product which had instructions to add it to engine oil and than idle it for 10 min! afther that engine oil and filter replacement! I went with first product!
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:43 AM   #13
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Engine flushes are kind of ok if your engine is semi clean. Still noone can predict if it loosens up dirt and the engine starts leaking oil. The worst case scenario is that it loosens up the dirt too much and reduces oil flow and your engine is fcvked. Never use these products on engines with full of sludge.

If someone wants to use these products then the proper/safest way possible in short is:
1) Change oil and filter. Run engine so it's hot.
2) Put the engine flush in. Run engine as adviced in the instructions on the bottle.
2) Change oil and filter. Run engine for some time so that any left flush liquid/sludge starts moving and mixes with oil/filter. 5 minutes or 5 hours is fine.
3) Change oil and filter. Drive for 3000-5000 miles.
4) Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the rest of your life.

Last edited by Koninkaulus; 12-31-2014 at 06:46 AM.
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Old 01-01-2015, 09:26 AM   #14
wallofgrath
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You don't need to get Redline or ester based oil. The correct oil to buy at Walmart for the rest of the car's life is the Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40 synthetic. Or the 0w30 Castrol at Autozone/Advance Auto. They are only $5/gallon more than the cheapest synthetic.

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Old 01-01-2015, 01:30 PM   #15
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You don't need to get Redline or ester based oil. The correct oil to buy at Walmart for the rest of the car's life is the Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40 synthetic. Or the 0w30 Castrol at Autozone/Advance Auto. They are only $5/gallon more than the cheapest synthetic.
Mobil generates more cold slime/mayo in the oil separator than any other brand. This is not an issue in warm conditions but in freezing weather Mobil is not adviced. Castrol is Ok, but not the best. Anyway, you are correct. Just wanted to point that one out


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