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General E46 Forum
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:04 AM   #61
Hogan773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Podman View Post
My cryptic note say torx 45 for both drain and fill but in the back of my mind they were different (like torx 40 perhaps).

I bought a set of cheap torx keys that look like the one pictured below from Amazon.com and used a length of pre-cut and threaded black pipe (about 18") from Home Depot for added leverage.

I followed the fill and check level procedures in the Bentley manual without exception.


The particular filter kit I chose had a well formed gasket that stayed in place with just a few of the 20 screws in place. Some brands have floppy gaskets that would be a nightmare.
Do you think these will work with a ratchet? Or will they not have enough clearance? (see attached picture) I got them at HF for 2.99 but I could always return them. Did you use your cheap torx keys and Home Depot pipe on the drain plug too?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Podman View Post
You also need a light duty torque wrend for the 20 pan screws. The torque spec is something like 8 ft lbs (check me on that) and I remember thinking that if I was tightening them without a torque wrench I would have felt the need to crank them quite a bit more.
Given that it is such a light reading, isn't it OK to just snug them lightly and be done with it? Seems like overkill to torque 20 bolts to exactly EIGHT POUNDS. But maybe I'm missing something. As long as you know that it is supposed to be "just snug" and you're not pulling it as hard as you can with a cheater bar, how could it really matter if you ended up with them at 12 pounds?
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #62
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Hogan,

I'm almost 100 % positive you'll not have room to put a ratchets with those HF attachments.

My comment on the torquing was just a caution to not over tighten them. I used a light duty torque wrench because I own one. If I didn't I would just snug them up.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:12 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Mr Podman View Post
Hogan,

I'm almost 100 % positive you'll not have room to put a ratchets with those HF attachments.

My comment on the torquing was just a caution to not over tighten them. I used a light duty torque wrench because I own one. If I didn't I would just snug them up.
Got it - makes sense. I'd use it if I had it too - why not. I'm not gonna buy one though, not for this application.

Ok so I'll get some torx keys then.......HF doesn't have them so will look elsewhere
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:29 AM   #64
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So considering the fact that the venerable Dex VI was developed for 2006+ GM trans, would it be backwards compatible? meaning, can I use it in a 2005 330ci with a GM trans? My logic says yes, but what do you guys think?
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:32 AM   #65
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I read it in a PDF issued from GM that they recommend Dexron VI as the replacement fill for all previous GM transmissions filled with any old version of Dexron.
If I find that PDF again I will post a link to it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:36 AM   #66
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Thanks, man! That would be great.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:54 AM   #67
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I bought the Meistersatz brand service kit at Pelican Parts for the transmission filter, gasket and 20 housing bolts and was very happy with the quality of their product.
Good to know, thanks. I was debating between the Meistersatz for $29 shipped vs. OEM BMW for $110 shipped, and ultimately ended up going with the latter for OEM peace of mind. Maybe in another 50K I'll give the Meistersatz a try.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:03 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Hogan773 View Post
Got it - makes sense. I'd use it if I had it too - why not. I'm not gonna buy one though, not for this application.

Ok so I'll get some torx keys then.......HF doesn't have them so will look elsewhere
I just bought a set off Ebay for $12.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:27 AM   #69
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Here's a link to a GM newsletter that talks about Dexron VI backwards compatibility.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:42 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by Washburn View Post
So considering the fact that the venerable Dex VI was developed for 2006+ GM trans, would it be backwards compatible? meaning, can I use it in a 2005 330ci with a GM trans? My logic says yes, but what do you guys think?
Yes it is apparently backward compatible. It's just newer better stuff so why wouldn't you use it rather than an older formulation.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:47 AM   #71
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I just bought a set off Ebay for $12.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...71-c-10156.htm

I saw somewhere that people took a bit like this and just put the closed end of a smaller metric wrench around it. That could work too I'd think

Also I'm thinking maybe it makes sense to do an initial drain and fill and not drop the pan, then drive for 5000 miles, then go ahead and drop the pan and do the whole thing. That way I'd really get out the old stuff. I guess you could do it the other way too but this way youd be putting on the new filter when you've got more "new fluid"

Last edited by Hogan773; 08-08-2013 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:25 PM   #72
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There is some arithmetic you can do about doing multiple drains and fills.
Each drain gets you about 5.5 of the 9 liters in there.
No matter how many fills you do, there is always going to be some old stuff in there.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:53 PM   #73
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There is some arithmetic you can do about doing multiple drains and fills.
Each drain gets you about 5.5 of the 9 liters in there.
No matter how many fills you do, there is always going to be some old stuff in there.

Even if it's 1ppm, which is nothing to worry about. At one time it was done with solvents which would be a nightmare now days. As long as you are using the correct fluid you shouldn't need to flush it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:17 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Hogan773 View Post
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...71-c-10156.htm

I saw somewhere that people took a bit like this and just put the closed end of a smaller metric wrench around it. That could work too I'd think

Also I'm thinking maybe it makes sense to do an initial drain and fill and not drop the pan, then drive for 5000 miles, then go ahead and drop the pan and do the whole thing. That way I'd really get out the old stuff. I guess you could do it the other way too but this way youd be putting on the new filter when you've got more "new fluid"
This is a tool I use almost every day, it is a mini ratchet for those type of bits. Here I have this tool pictured with a T45 bit.

You can get these at Home Depot for about $20, and I think it comes with some bit sizes, not sure about T45 though.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:27 PM   #75
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So I had a shop drain and refill my tranny today because the PO stripped the plug and I had to have them work it out with some air tools. I gave them 7 quarts and they gave me back a full unopened quart when I left. I also had the filter changed and the gasket replaced. (ECS Tuning Kit)
Upon leaving, I now notice an ever so slight whine at about 5k RPMs that I'm sure wasn't there before.
Is it worth cracking it back open to check to make sure they filled it all the way? I can get it up on jack stands and I had the plugs replaced when it was refilled so I'm sure I can get it open now. Or is it just the sound of new fluid making it's way into the nooks and crannys?

I was in and out in about an hour and a half, so I'm sure that they didn't let it cool or use a thermometer to check the temperature while filling. I'm afraid it may have still been too warm when they were filling.

This is why I never let anyone work on my car. I never trust them to do it right.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:47 PM   #76
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Is it worth cracking it back open to check to make sure they filled it all the way?
Wouldn't hurt to double check/rule it out. You can pick up an infrared temp gun from Harbor Freight for $25. Jack it up, make sure it is level and get the transmission to operating temperature.

From there, open the fill plug and see what comes out. If a bunch of fluid starts coming out, then they overfilled. If nothing comes out at all, then there's a chance they under filled. For the latter, slowly pump more fluid in until you notice a trickle coming out, and screw the plug back in.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:42 AM   #77
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Re: ATF Change.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by HLG600 View Post
Wouldn't hurt to double check/rule it out. You can pick up an infrared temp gun from Harbor Freight for $25. Jack it up, make sure it is level and get the transmission to operating temperature.

From there, open the fill plug and see what comes out. If a bunch of fluid starts coming out, then they overfilled. If nothing comes out at all, then there's a chance they under filled. For the latter, slowly pump more fluid in until you notice a trickle coming out, and screw the plug back in.
Thank you. I have a multi meter with temp probe. I'll check it this weekend. The noise went away after driving for a while. I think it just need to be shifted a few times. It idles like new and shifts so much better. Vanos and VCG next.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:57 AM   #78
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Question on the ATF change.....do these fill plugs and drain plugs have crush washers or similar? Or is it just a threaded plug that goes in and seals itself?
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:51 AM   #79
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Thank you. I have a multi meter with temp probe. I'll check it this weekend. The noise went away after driving for a while. I think it just need to be shifted a few times. It idles like new and shifts so much better. Vanos and VCG next.
No problem. Sometimes the fluid just needs to be circulated fully, but double checking will give you peace of mind. How many miles on it when you did the change?
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:09 AM   #80
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Re: ATF Change.....

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Question on the ATF change.....do these fill plugs and drain plugs have crush washers or similar? Or is it just a threaded plug that goes in and seals itself?
My ECS kit came with new plugs. 150 for everything. Well worth it

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