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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 12-03-2014, 12:06 AM   #1
AdaRi
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 40
My Ride: 2004 325i e46 sedan
M54 Intake Manifold/ Coolant Hard Lines DIY

Well one or both of my coolant hard lines went out and I looked far and wide for a written DIY on this forum and multiple other to no avail.

I then decided that I would write my FIRST DIY for this job!!

This DIY takes about 5-8 hours to complete depending on skill level.
I would say it rates anywhere from a 7-8 on difficulty.

During this job, if you need to replace CCV system or any coolant lines, power steering lines, ICV, Throttle Body, DISA Valve, Intake boots etc. DO IT NOW!!
It is well worth it to go ahead and replace any of these parts while you are completing this job.

******I highly recommend changing the CCV system, all other coolant lines and Intake Boots on this job******

I will list all parts and tools SPECIFICALLY for this job only. All other parts can be found on other DIY's

Parts needed:

11 53 7 502 525 - Coolant Outlet Pipe (L shaped)
11 53 1 705 210 - Coolant Inlet Pipe (Straight)
11 61 1 436 631 - Intake Manifold Gasket
11 61 1 716 174 - Throttle body Gasket
11 61 1 437 453 - Idle Control Valve Grommet
Throttle body cleaner spray
engine cleaner/ degreaser
BMW coolant
shop towels



Tools Needed:

Flashlight
Magnet
Mirror
1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchets
Various extensions and other universal adapters
6, 10, 11, 13, 16 and 19mm sockets
T30 and T40 torx sockets
6mm flex nut driver
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Picks
Wire cutters
Pliers
compressed air/ ShopVac





Let's get started



1. Jack the car up on stands. Make sure your work space is safe and you have an open area for all of the parts you will be taking off.

2. Drain all of the coolant out through the expansion tank, radiator and the engine drain plug. This plug is located on the passenger side of the engine underneath the CATs.

When re-installing the tightening torque is:
Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

[IMG][/IMG]

3. While draining go ahead and disconnect the battery and remove the following parts
intake duct
air box/ filter
MAF sensor and upper intake boot
micro filter housing assembly ( 4 T40 torx screws)
engine covers (2 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts)

4. After all of those are completed remove the DISA valve connector and DISA valve itself (2 T40 torx screws)
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

5. Remove the intake bellows. There are 2 clamps facing downward. (6mm screws for the clamps) If you are lucky they are not and it will be easier to get them with a screwdriver.
[IMG][/IMG]

If you need more room for this step you can remove the vacuum line next to it from the clamp. You will have to pry the clamp open.
[IMG][/IMG]

6. Remove the electrical box harness (2 nuts and 1 bolt all 10mm)
[IMG][/IMG]

7. Unplug the ICV and Throttle connectors.
[IMG][/IMG]

8. Unscrew the bolt holding the dipstick guide tube for more room (13mm)
[IMG][/IMG]

9. Remove the ICV (2 T40 torx screws) ****PULL HARD****
[IMG][/IMG]

10. Remove the Throttle Body (4 10mm bolts)
[IMG][/IMG]

11. Remove the vacuum line from the brake booster. The weather stripping will need to be taken off for this.
[IMG][/IMG]

12. Remove the bottom hose connecting to the CCV.
[IMG][/IMG]

13. Remove the Intake Manifold bottom bracket bolt. (16mm)
[IMG][/IMG]

14. Remove the connector to the purge valve.
[IMG][/IMG]

15. Remove the fuel line from the rear side of the Intake Manifold. This is very hard to get to and requires a push on while pulling method to release the mechanism. Just like the Power steering lines connecting to the front mount.
[IMG][/IMG]

16. Remove the CCV hose connected to the crank.
[IMG][/IMG]

17. Disconnect the battery line (19mm). This will be fed through the Intake Manifold while taking it off and will be fed back through while re-installing.
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

18. Remove the wires for the O2 sensors out of the way. "Hidden" zip ties might be holding these lines down on the back of the engine.
[IMG][/IMG]

19. Disconnect the vanos electrical connector.
[IMG][/IMG]

20. Unclip the fuel injector harness clips. One side of this clip MUST sit in the open slot on the side of the attachment in order to remove. *****BE VERY CAREFUL***** I highly recommend a magnet in case one pops off.
After you have uclipped, proceed to disconnect the fuel injector harness and move out of the way.
[IMG][/IMG]

21. Clean side of engine block that the Intake Manifold connects to with compressed air or a ShopVac. You DO NOT want any debris to fall inside of the Intake Manifold ports.

22. Remove the intake manifold bolts (there are 9 11mm bolts) the pattern is 1-1-2-1-2-1-1 front to back.
[IMG][/IMG]

23. Remove the Intake Manifold. (Have pliers ready)

When re-installing the tightening torque is:
Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7: 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
M8: 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

While removing, the coolant temp switch (wire located at the back portion of the fuel injector harness) will get hung up on the fuel line located on the back of the intake manifold. You can disconnect this or simply unwrap it from underneath the fuel line.

Also, there is another connector underneath the Intake Manifold (located underneath the rear 2 bolt pattern) that is connected to the Intake Manifold bottom bracket. You will need to get pliers and squeeze the clamp and push it through the bracket to remove.
[IMG][/IMG]

24. After removing the intake manifold, clean around each port with a shop towel and inspect each port for any debris. Remove any debris that you find.

25. Replace the Intake Manifold gaskets and any other parts such as the CCV system, coolant lines etc. at this point.
[IMG][/IMG]




Now on to the Coolant Inlet and Outlet Hard Lines. *****These lines are known to corrode and get stuck in the block***** you will have to pry the excess out with a screwdriver. Be careful not to break any tool inside these holes.


26. Loosen the banjo bolt (19mm) on the vanos line to have some wiggle room for removing the hard lines.

When re-installing the tightening torque is:
Oil line to VANOS unit (banjo bolt)
32 Nm (24 ft-lb)

[IMG][/IMG]

27. Remove the Inlet Hard Line (top) and remove the coolant line on adjacent side. (10mm nut and 13mm bolt)
[IMG][/IMG]

28. Remove the Outlet Hard Line (bottom "L" shaped) and remove the coolant line on adjacent side. (2 13mm bolts)
[IMG][/IMG]



NOW IT IS CLEANING TIME!!!!!

29. Use your engine cleaner/ degreaser to clean as much and everything that you can! Everyone loves a FRESH AS F#!& engine!

Before:
[IMG][/IMG]


After:
[IMG][/IMG]

30. Clean the inside of your ICV and Throttle body with the throttle body cleaner. get them as shiny as possible and you will notice a much improved throttle response once everything is re-installed.




To put back on, just go in reverse!!

Tightening torques:

Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7: 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
M8: 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

Oil line to VANOS unit (banjo bolt)
32 Nm (24 ft-lb)



Make sure everything is clean!!!

Over 200k miles and the engine bay is still FRESH AS F#!&
[IMG][/IMG]



CONGRATULATIONS!!!! You have now completed this WHOLE job!!!!


If you have any questions or anything to add feel free to comment and I will be sure to answer and/or add anything.

Go easy on me. This is my first DIY........ I hope you all enjoy!!
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Work in Progress.
2004 325i Sedan GrauGruen Metallic
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Intake manifold/ Coolant Hard Line DIY

Last edited by AdaRi; 12-03-2014 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 01:06 AM   #2
SilberVogel
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 371
My Ride: 2002 330Ci Conv.
Pictures are worth a thousand words and always love seeing a DIY full of them. Nice job! As you mentioned, perfect opportunity to tackle a lot of other areas with this one.

Might also want to add some torque specs to the steps; here's a few from the Bentley.

Tightening torques:

Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7: 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
M8: 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)

Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)

Oil line to VANOS unit (banjo bolt)
32 Nm (24 ft-lb)
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Last edited by SilberVogel; 12-03-2014 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 01:17 AM   #3
AdaRi
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Added! I love pics in DIY's as well so I figured I would add some on every step!

Thanks for the feedback SilberVogel!
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Work in Progress.
2004 325i Sedan GrauGruen Metallic
Beyern 19x9.5 front, 19x10.5 rear/ Clear LED side markers/ Black Roundels/ Matte black kidney grilles/ Smoked m3 tails/ Clear Corners/ Front LED turn signals

Intake manifold/ Coolant Hard Line DIY
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