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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 06-30-2014, 03:29 PM   #1
jjrichar
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Project M54 engine: Dissection of an ICV.

Dissection of an Idle Control Valve (ICV)

Link to other parts of the project.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=899347


Iíve always had rough starting issues on my car. I identified it as an ICV that was getting that was a bit sticky, which required me to clean it out about every 6 months. After cleaning it would be perfect, but then after a little while it would occasionally give me the rough starting issues again.

I had an ICV that was left over from doing the engine project, so I thought I would try and pull it apart to see if they can be easily refurbished. I assumed the issue of problems soon after cleaning was the bearings inside being cleaned out of all lubrication by the solvent used, which needed fixing. I wanted to find out if was possible to pull it apart and replace bearings etc.

After removing the armature, I tried for weeks to work out how to pull it apart without damaging it. I couldnít work it out, so eventually I sacrificed it to the DIY god and cut it open.

In a nutshell, it would be very difficult to pull this apart and change the bearings over, but there is a way to lubricate the bearings. Iím going to tell you the process of pulling it apart, but I wouldnít recommend it.

Some basics on the ICV and how it works.
The ICV is fed an alternating current from the DME. This goes to an armature that changes its magnetic field so a rotor (with some permanent magnets attached) vibrates back and forth to an equilibrium position, which controls the rotor position. When you turn the ignition to position 2 (with the engine not started) you will hear a humming from the intake manifold area. This is the ICV vibrating. If you removed the ICV from the intake manifold and held it in your hand when it is activated (Iíve done this) it vibrates to the point of it being uncomfortable to hold. This is why it is rubber mounted into the intake manifold.

The thing thatís great about its design is that none of the electrical components move. The armature remains stationary, while the rotor and permanent magnets do the moving.

Pulling it apart is initially done by removing the three 2.5mm hex screws. These have epoxy resin over them to seal the unit, so you have to drill this out, and then pick out the remains with some type of sharp tool.

With the screws out, you need to grip the electrical connector with something and wiggle and pull to get the armature out. Itís in there really tight. I used some multigrips and pulled and wiggled for about 10 minutes to get it to come out. You can see the damage done to the electrical connector in the process.

Once the armature is out, you can easily remove the circlip (which is what the screws attach to), and then pull out the magnets and clips that are in the cylinder.

This is where I got stumped, and had to cut it open.

Here are the components.
















You can see the issues with cleaning out the bearings. A lot of the lubricant in the bearings is immediately dissolved, initially clearing everything out, but then making the bearings drier, and not really fixing the problem. The needle bearing will get dried out very easily, and the roller bearing is metal shielded, so it doesnít seal particularly well either.

You can see on the photo above the knob that is on the end of the rotor fits into a slot that is inside the housing. When you are cleaning the ICV and rotate it back and forth, itís this knob that limits the travel. I was always worried I might be banging it against some electrical component inside, but this is not the case. You can rattle it back and forth when cleaning with no risk of damage.

Now the problem of pulling it apart. The unit is put together by installing the locking clip inside the housing, and then the rotor assembly is pushed hard inside until the tangs lock into the groove on the bearing. When the rotor is being installed, it compresses the spring (see top photo), which then presses back to lock the rotor in place when the clip tangs are engaged.









If you wanted to disassemble the unit, you would have to compress the spring, and disengage each of the tangs. No problem, except the gap between the cylinder and the inside of the housing is about 0.5mm, and you would have to have a number of special curved tools that could poke down there and disengage the tangs. Very difficult in my opinion.

The only solution that I could see was to lubricate the bearings after cleaning. I put some engine oil on the roller bearing, and rotated it back and forth. The oil went through the metal shielding slowly, and the assembly rotated much better after a while. Prior to pulling the thing apart, I had cleaned it the best I could using carb cleaner. Even so, the bearings were still binding a bit. After lubrication, it moved much, much better.

After seeing this, I removed the good ICV from my car. After cleaning, it was freely moving, but it sounded raw without any lubrication. I put a good squirt of engine oil inside the chamber and stood it on its end (both orientations) and rattled it back and forth so oil went into both bearings. It immediately sounded much better and dampened the movement (like a new bearing compared to an old dry one). I did this for about 10 minutes to get as much oil as possible inside, and then blew the excess out with compressed air. Iím of the opinion that if any more oil comes out, itís just going to go straight into the cylinder and get burnt.

Itís been in the car for a week now, and has started faultlessly every time. If I have any problems Iíll let you know, but for the moment Iím very happy with the results. Only time will tell me if itís a long term fix.
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:46 PM   #2
sunnyjay
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Awesome info!
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:54 PM   #3
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A bit of feedback for those who might be interested.

After cleaning and oiling my ICV like I described above about a month ago, my car has been starting perfectly every time without a hitch. It's winter here at the moment, which is the time it would occasionally give a bit of a hiccup. It's never started better, even better than when I bought it 8 years ago as a near new car.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:51 AM   #4
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So squirting a little motor oil into the chamber after cleaning helps keep it working smoothly. Clever. Makes sense. Next time I will give it a try.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:40 AM   #5
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Thanks jjrichar, I'm getting ready to tear into this area to do a CCV kit overhaul and had planned on cleaning my ICV and Throttle Body while there.
I'm a bit confused on how you lubed the bearings without tearing the ICV apart.
Quote:
I put a good squirt of engine oil inside the chamber and stood it on its end (both orientations) and rattled it back and forth so oil went into both bearings.
To paraphrase, you just put a couple of tablespoons of engine oil in the end with the T-connection, let it seep down, then flipped it over and let it seep the other way, then shook it?
Then blew the excess oil out.
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:45 PM   #6
jjrichar
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deadfish, that's pretty much it. After putting the oil down in the T connection, I spent about 5 minutes rattling it back and forth in each orientation (electrical connector end up to get it into the needle bearing, and then electrical connector end down to get it into the main large bearing). It does't take long for the oil to work its way down into the needle bearing, but it takes a good while longer to get it into the main bearing due to the shielding. Then blow as much of it out as you can.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:13 PM   #7
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Very Good! Thanks for your response, and taking the time to document all this, I'm sure it took longer to do the documentation than the work. Much appreciated.
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:20 PM   #8
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Hey jjrichar,

I just gotta say this is one of the best DIY write-ups I have seen. The clarity and details in the explanations, the amazing close-up photos with perfect arrows and descriptions, the topic being new, useful, and unique. I mean, if we had an annual DIY awards, this would be a high nomination.

Thanks so much for the valuable contribution and outstanding work!
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Old 08-23-2014, 04:27 AM   #9
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Thanks for the feedback. Glad you got something from it.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:40 PM   #10
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I'm with Bali, JJ, your whole M54 project should be stickied. All the post are of this high quality. I send people over here quite often for the CCV and others.


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Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Hey jjrichar,

I just gotta say this is one of the best DIY write-ups I have seen. The clarity and details in the explanations, the amazing close-up photos with perfect arrows and descriptions, the topic being new, useful, and unique. I mean, if we had an annual DIY awards, this would be a high nomination.

Thanks so much for the valuable contribution and outstanding work!
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:13 PM   #11
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I would say this really helpful info , but don't You think that by the time the oil that You're putting inside the ICV will burn out later on ( coz the ICV get really hot ) and make it stick again and it won't open and close smoothly ?
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:18 AM   #12
jjrichar
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I don't think the ICV gets very hot. It sits in rubber mounts that don't get burned, and it's on the intake side with very little heat. I did this early last year and it's still starting like it's new. If it does start to lose lubrication, it's a 30 min job to do it again.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
Dissection of an Idle Control Valve (ICV)

Some basics on the ICV and how it works.
The ICV is fed an alternating current from the DME. This goes to an armature that changes its magnetic field so a rotor (with some permanent magnets attached) vibrates back and forth to an equilibrium position, which controls the rotor position. When you turn the ignition to position 2 (with the engine not started) you will hear a humming from the intake manifold area. This is the ICV vibrating. If you removed the ICV from the intake manifold and held it in your hand when it is activated (Iíve done this) it vibrates to the point of it being uncomfortable to hold. This is why it is rubber mounted into the intake manifold.
Can someone explain how the vibrating rotor assists vehicle idle?
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:11 PM   #14
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My understanding is that the alternating current that it applied to the ICV is simply adjusted so that the equilibrium position of the rotor changes. Yes it vibrates back and forth a little bit, but it's the position that counts.
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
My understanding is that the alternating current that it applied to the ICV is simply adjusted so that the equilibrium position of the rotor changes. Yes it vibrates back and forth a little bit, but it's the position that counts.
So more or less additional air is let in depending upon the position of the rotor?
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by lkstaack View Post
So more or less additional air is let in depending upon the position of the rotor?

I think so. The icv gets filtered and metered air from the air filter and MAF. The frequency of the vibration determined the amount of air let into the engine. Pretty crafty them Germans!
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:56 PM   #17
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A bit more feedback on this DIY.

I did the job two years ago. The car has started without fault every time without fail since I did it. I'd cleaned the ICV like is says in other posts a few time before, and within a few months it was playing up. Clearly lubricating like described makes a big difference. I'm very happy with the results.
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:26 PM   #18
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Hi, I have the e46, ive just removed and cleaned icv.Reassembled and worked great for couple days.I believe when cleaning icv with Carb cleaner ive stripped most of the oil from icv bearings.So, my question is..instead of stripping and removing icv to lubricate could I just run the engine, then remove the intake hose from icv and spray engine oil directly into icvs inlet port.Would this not find its way to the bearings of the icv..Would this oil thats been sprayed into icv cause any problems as residue oil going into the engine..ok..thanks
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:32 PM   #19
jjrichar
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My personal opinion is that very little of the oil will end up in the bearings, and most would just go straight into the engine. Unless you turn it on its end and wiggle, very little oil will go to the bearing you are trying to lubricate. Basically you need to do what you just did, remove and clean, then do the lubrication with the ICV out of the car.

More feedback from the DIY I did back in 2014. Car still starts perfectly nearly three years later.

Last edited by jjrichar; 03-18-2017 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:02 PM   #20
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Hi, jjrichar, thanks for the reply. .I will probably do what your saying. .I will remove icv ,clean again just to make sure and lubricate bearings ..whats the best stuff for these bearings, I was just going to use engine oil.Is there a better product to use..When I first cleaned icv I noticed much better running, but after just 3 days car seems worse than to begin with .Idle speed is normal but engine sometimes tries to stall..getting lean codes and backfire codes..when I first cleaned icv these codes disapeared for 350 miles..Sorted all my ooairther air leaks to engine.So im pritty sure its icv sticking..Also, installed a catchcan, car was burning a lot of oil, 5 litres every 400 miles.. after installing catchcan I no longer burn any oil at all. l Copied the youtube video on catch can install by the 50s kid..he covers everything to do with e46..It creates a presure in the crankcase that makes the piston oil ring cling to the bore better..ok & thanks..
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