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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 01-23-2011, 12:12 AM   #241
Brandyn.
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Originally Posted by neil1138 View Post
Step 5: (The transition step)

(yeah, you jealous of my 7400 miles? no tamper light or anything. suckers, haha)

Lol how is it hard? to change it
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Old 01-23-2011, 01:01 AM   #242
Brandyn.
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What would i have to buy if i buy a donor car thats totaled? nothing just swap over?


The donor is a 2003 330i sport

my car is a 2001 325i sport premium

Last edited by Brandyn.; 01-23-2011 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 02-05-2011, 06:18 PM   #243
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nm, figured out my problem
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Last edited by jmay87; 02-05-2011 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 01:55 PM   #244
Vogal
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Hello

Ive done this to my car, is a 320ci cabrio 2002 !
The only " problem" that i have is when i want to change gear, when i press the clutch pedal, the rpm go up 500/1000 revs ! Its so strange !

Its already programed as a Manual by the local dealership, my last thougts is try to change de gas pedal ? I still have the original one ( automatic ) and i had already bought one from a manual ( they are diferent ) .

Any thoughts ?



Ps: Sorry for my english .
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:47 AM   #245
toddeshpeter
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I have read the entire thread and have a few questions I didn't see answered anywhere.

I want to do this to my car since the auto is going out. I have a 1999 328i. Are all the part numbers the same as you have listed for your 328ci? I was thinking some parts might be different like the drive shaft might be longer in my car?

Also, is it possible to disconnect the DSC so there is no traction control? Mine is malfunctioning and if I do this swap I would like to disconnect the DSC (actually called ASC in my car)

Thanks in advance guys
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:15 AM   #246
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I have read the entire thread and have a few questions I didn't see answered anywhere.

I want to do this to my car since the auto is going out. I have a 1999 328i. Are all the part numbers the same as you have listed for your 328ci? I was thinking some parts might be different like the drive shaft might be longer in my car?

Also, is it possible to disconnect the DSC so there is no traction control? Mine is malfunctioning and if I do this swap I would like to disconnect the DSC (actually called ASC in my car)

Thanks in advance guys
You will have to cross check the part numbers on realoem yourself. I can't remember if they are the same...

There's a dsc option in NCS Expert if I remember right. I'm not sure what disabling it would do but it might be worth looking into. Btw, what do you mean it's malfunctioning? Has the module gone bad?
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:28 PM   #247
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There are several symptoms. Sometimes the ABS, traction control light, and brake light all come on which I have found on the forum to possibly be one of the wheel sensors for the DSC or could be a low battery. After I replaced the battery, since it was getting old anyway, the lights didn't come on for 6 months and now they are back. Also sometimes when I take off from a stop the DSC system cuts power to the engine for a bit like I lost traction but I didn't. At first I thought the auto tranny was slipping but when I took it to the shop they scanned the car and a code for right front wheel sensor came up. The problem could probably be fixed by replacing the right front wheel sensor but I just haven't gotten to that yet. Now if going to swap to manual then I would just prefer not to have the DSC all together. I grew up driving manual sport cars that didn't have traction control or airbags or anything like that. It is more fun to be able to break the back tires loose every once in a while. I don't want to have to press the DSC or in my case ASC button to turn it off every time I get into the car.

What is NCS Expert? A programmer? BTW thanks for your help!
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:56 AM   #248
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Originally Posted by toddeshpeter View Post
There are several symptoms. Sometimes the ABS, traction control light, and brake light all come on which I have found on the forum to possibly be one of the wheel sensors for the DSC or could be a low battery. After I replaced the battery, since it was getting old anyway, the lights didn't come on for 6 months and now they are back. Also sometimes when I take off from a stop the DSC system cuts power to the engine for a bit like I lost traction but I didn't. At first I thought the auto tranny was slipping but when I took it to the shop they scanned the car and a code for right front wheel sensor came up. The problem could probably be fixed by replacing the right front wheel sensor but I just haven't gotten to that yet. Now if going to swap to manual then I would just prefer not to have the DSC all together. I grew up driving manual sport cars that didn't have traction control or airbags or anything like that. It is more fun to be able to break the back tires loose every once in a while. I don't want to have to press the DSC or in my case ASC button to turn it off every time I get into the car.

What is NCS Expert? A programmer? BTW thanks for your help!
The DSC is a nice thing to have and uless you're building a drift car then i would say leave it as it actually helps with rear tracktion (brakes slipping wheel, essentially giving you an LSD)

Also disabling it is kind of an hassle if you want it done right.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:12 AM   #249
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I see your pointPir4t but swapping to a manual is a hassle if done right too. It's hard to explain but before cars got so computerized there was less between you and the road. You knew exactly what was going to happen when you gave more throttle or released the clutch a little faster. You had complete control of the car and what it was going to do with your input. Now with things like traction control you don't know when it will kick in. Plus sometimes its fun to get the rear end loose a bit, not just when taking off but in other situations too.

I was just thinking of killing two birds with one stone since my DSC system is acting up and for the reasons stated above.
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:33 PM   #250
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Just ordered the 5 speed tranny, driveline, and flywheel from bmrparts.com. They are a BMW dismantler in CA. The tranny was 375, the driveline (rebuilt with new center bearing and balanced) was 199, and the flywheel was 199. I also bought a warranty on the tranny for 131 that covers lifetime parts and 2 years labor. I have a few questions for you guys.

1. When I checked the part numbers on realoem.com it said I needed the same tranny Neil used the s5d 320z. bmrparts said I need a s5d 310z. The guy said the 320z was for 330i and 310z is for the 328i. I have a 02/1999 328i. So I ordered the 310z that he said was what I needed even though it conflicts with realoem.com. This makes me a little nervous and was curious what you guys thought.

2. The cheapest new flywheel I could find anywhere was 499 for a Luk flywheel. bmrparts.com which is where I bought the tranny from had a used flywheel for 199 so I ordered the flywheel too. He said it is inspected and no hot spots or anything and that flywheels rarely go out. I just wanted your thoughts on this and should I have spent the extra 300 for a new one or should the used one be ok?

Thank you guys for your help. I am getting really excited about this project!

Last edited by toddeshpeter; 09-26-2011 at 10:01 PM. Reason: By the way, swap is done and the 310z tranny worked out just fine.
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:05 PM   #251
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Anyone ever seen the firewall not have a punchout for the clutch master hard line?
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:44 PM   #252
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Just finished the swap last night and works perfect! Thank you very much Neil for all of your help.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:57 PM   #253
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I wanted to add something to this thread that may help others. I had about a 3-4 hour set back that could have been avoided with 1 minutes worth of work. I noticed the tip of the input shaft (the part that goes into the pilot bearing) of the tranny had a little rust on it. I used some steel wool to clean it up. I got it pretty well and it felt smooth so I thought it would be ok. So I went to install the tranny and it was almost all the way on and was stuck with about 1/4" left to go before it was against the engine block. After a lot of wiggling and pushing and sweat it just wouldn't go on all the way. I thought maybe the clutch disc became uncentered with the pilot bearing so proceeded to remove the tranny to check. When we went to pull the tranny off it wouldn't budge. Now it was stuck both ways! I ended up going and buying two pry bars to pry it off from both sides of the tranny at once. We popped it off and I slid the alignment tool back in and it was still aligned. Then it donned on me, maybe the shaft wouldn't go into the bearing. I happened to have an extra pilot bearing that came with the clutch kit on the work bench. So I grabbed it and sure enough it wouldn't go on the input shaft of the tranny. It started to go on when I pressed on it but only a little bit and it was stuck and wouldn't come off until I tapped it off with a tool. So I used my dremmel to clean up the shaft and now the bearing would slide on and off with no problem. Then we attempted to put the tranny on the engine and it slid right in! So lesson learned. Check to see if the bearing will slide on the input shaft of the tranny before you install the bearing!

The car is noticably faster now with the conversion and having the 3.46 diff, and in my opinion the diff is great. Some have said it is too short etc. and 1st gear is basically useless. Not the case in my opinion. The car feels alive and I am loving it!!!
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:00 PM   #254
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Anyone ever seen the firewall not have a punchout for the clutch master hard line?
Mine had one but it was hard to see at first. The line was very faint.
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:37 AM   #255
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Hello...
I'm kinda sitting i Norway, and really liked you DIY thread.

But i have some questions..

This pin connectors, or what you refer it too.
Where and how do you connect them,
i have readen your thread about 10 times, and does not really get this,
would you be soo kind and take som pictures and guide me throw it?

Have taken everything out, and have installed cluchpedal and master sylinder, and flywheel ect.. but theese wiring do i not get, dont seem to be abel to starte the motor because you dont have a detailed picture or something like this to guid me throw.

like where does this white wire on pin 23 go? and or how have you done this with EWS?

Thx for any answare
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:41 AM   #256
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Did your car have the GM or ZF auto transmission? If the GM like the one in this thread then you can use a shortcut mentioned in this thread by shorting out to pins on the auto transmission wire plug that used to plug into the old transmission.
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:02 PM   #257
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Did your car have the GM or ZF auto transmission? If the GM like the one in this thread then you can use a shortcut mentioned in this thread by shorting out to pins on the auto transmission wire plug that used to plug into the old transmission.
I don't think it matters, i had a zf and followed this thread and everything worked great.
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:29 PM   #258
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They say it does matter. If you your auto was a ZF then you can't take the wiring shortcut and just short out the #2 and #8 pin on the tranny plug. The cars with the GM tranny have a different plug that allows you to do this.
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Old 10-07-2011, 04:10 PM   #259
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i didn't even notice. I drove like the for 2 years and it worked fine.

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Old 10-07-2011, 06:34 PM   #260
toddeshpeter
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i didn't even notice. I drove like the for 2 years and it worked fine.

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I don't think you get what I am talking about. Read the second bullet on #166 of this thread. I will quote #166 below.
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