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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-07-2011, 06:35 PM   #261
toddeshpeter
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Originally Posted by neil1138 View Post
Just some information that needs to be added into here after realizing I left it out:
  • When you mount your new pedal assembly, you will need to cut a section out of your kick panel to accommodate the new clutch pedal.
  • For people wanting to merely start their car after they do the swap, or in the case that they don't have a clutch switch/clutch switch module yet, you can take your automatic transmission harness (body side obviously) and run a wire between pins 2 and 8. This will ground the neutral safety switch and allow your car to start. I noticed that this was mentioned in Jared's thread but the pictures were down and have been for some time. Here is the included diagram showing where pins 2 and 8 are. They should be labeled with tiny numbers but in the event that they are not:

    http://www.zoom-tech.com/downloads/s...s/gm/5l40e.pdf

Some common electronics questions I get all the time (FAQ):

1. Where is the Clutch Switch Module located? Inside the car? What does it look like?
  • The clutch switch module is mounted to the master cylinder inside the car. It is a black magnetic switch
2. Hey Neil, I have done the mechanical swap on the car and now need to code the electronics on the car, can you help me get the ZCS (GM SA VN) information from the car?
  • If you go to the dealer, have them get your SA code from the ZCS module and then run the code by me. A BMW tech will know what ZCS is if you say it to him. Just tell him that he needs to use the older version of GT1 software, version 44 or older in order to code. Most dealers won't be able to code with the new machines BMW USA gives them, SSS, ect. But you can have the codes read using most systems.
3. Before you reprogrammed your car for manual, how did the car drive? Was it tricky in 1st gear? Did you get more power out of the car after the reprogram?
  • Nope, the car should act the same before and after the swap
4. Do I need to code my car at all?
  • If you really wanted to, you could drive around forever without coding the car. You would just have to live with the error lights on the dash and no cruise control, clutch safety switch, ect. The car will act the exact same before and after the coding, no difference. I drove around for a month before I coded my car, no problem.

And also, I notice a lot of people getting confused when it comes to coding. When I request that you get your ZCS information and come back to me with it, actually do it because it does matter. We can then modify your SA code and you will be set for coding in the future. If you do not wish to do coding, you will have a gear indicator light and SES indefinitely.
So are we on the same page?
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:36 PM   #262
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This only works on cars that originally came with a GM auto.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:47 AM   #263
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Some one got any good pictures or answer on where i hook the clutch switch wiring and modul, and also who i get the car to just start?
Need help indeed
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:38 AM   #264
toddeshpeter
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very good pictures and description on titaniumcranium 6 speed swap on the clutch switch and module wiring
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:52 PM   #265
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Originally Posted by eek142 View Post
Would you be able to discuss the electronics side of this a little more? Was it simple enough to do? Did you have to change a lot of things in the ECU regarding timing/fuel maps and other things or was everything strictly limited to settings having to do with the transmission? Reason I ask is b/c I wonder how feasible this would be on an M56 sulev (auto only and the ECU is different from M54's so there is no performance software out there).
The pinouts on the m56 ECU/DME seem to be the same as the m54's. I did the auto to manual swap on my m56 and copied the wiring directions on this thread. Car runs great with manual, cruise control works.
(I'm back reading this to figure out the coding to get rid of the SES and gear lights on the dash)
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:29 AM   #266
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yeah man, no problem. This is only half of the thread, i still havent made the other half. After I code the car, I will be taking a bunch of pictures and making a coding section of the DIY. This was my main concern when I thought of doing the swap. Without the help of some awesome forum members (you guys know who you are) I would have never gotten my car to start.

When I was researching doing the swap, I could never find actual instructions or information on programming the car, so it's my goal to post up instructions for future people who consider this swap. I was always PMing and Emailing members trying to find out what to do or just get an answer to a question. They were SO helpful, I will always be deeply indebted to them. But I realize that these people have their own lives and i know i probably pestered them all the time. So, im going to take what I learned from them and my research and save them time in the future by compiling a DIY for the forum. It might be a couple of weeks before I get to that though, but i'll definitely let you guys know.

But to answer your question directly, I have not coded my car yet. When I do, I will tell you guys how to do it and I will hopefully be able to explain it a little better. From what I know how to do, coding the car is not terribly difficult. You just need to know the right people and have access to the right equipment. In general, you are just changing the software of your car from an automatic to a manual. There are just a couple of steps you need to take in order to get there.

But as far as your M56 goes, I have no idea how to code that. I just know how to code older E46s, The pre-facelifts. Newer E46s dont have whats called ZCS, they have something more advanced that I dont know anything about. So I'm not the person to help you out on that one, you need to contact jbeurotech or someone of similar stature to answer that question
Hi there, I am new to here and saying a hi to everyone first. I did a swap on my E46 330Ci with a 5 speed manual in Hong Kong, but some how those people are not able to help me to get rid of the error code lighting. I saw that by using the software GT1 and solve this issue, just want to confirms that because I am facing a very interest issue, my car will basically locks the RPM at around 6k and my tech guy told be because of the computer locks. Will i able to solve that if all the fault code get clear? many many thanks!!

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Old 01-05-2012, 07:08 PM   #267
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Hi there, I am new to here and saying a hi to everyone first. I did a swap on my E46 330Ci with a 5 speed manual in Hong Kong, but some how those people are not able to help me to get rid of the error code lighting. I saw that by using the software GT1 and solve this issue, just want to confirms that because I am facing a very interest issue, my car will basically locks the RPM at around 6k and my tech guy told be because of the computer locks. Will i able to solve that if all the fault code get clear? many many thanks!!

gt1 or progman can do it for you. What do you mean locks?

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Old 01-13-2012, 01:33 PM   #268
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Where did you get a shift boot with the plastic mounting bracket. Mine did not come with the bracket and I need to get one.
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:05 PM   #269
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Where did you get a shift boot with the plastic mounting bracket. Mine did not come with the bracket and I need to get one.
I found one on ebay for like 6 bucks, and then just robbed the plastic piece I needed.

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Old 01-13-2012, 03:12 PM   #270
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I found one on ebay for like 6 bucks, and then just robbed the plastic piece I needed.

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You lucky bastad!

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Old 01-20-2012, 01:58 PM   #271
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Need help fast

I have a 99 323i we just did the manual swap on last night. we wired up the clutch switchs but unlike on neils car i dont have the 4 wire clutch module on the clutch master cylinder. I have 2 clutch switches on the pedel. both 3 wire. I wired them together. ground to ground, dme pin 23 wire together and 12 volt power source wires together. when the clutch pedel is down and trying to start the car i have power coming to my wire i ran to the dme pin 23 but the car does not turn over. I checked and i am on pin 23 and getting 12 volts only when the clutch is down with the key in starting position only. anyone have any ideas? also i checked at the starter and i do have 12 volts at starter big wire comeing in but no power to the little solenoid wire when key is in start position. any help would be great. my consern is since i have a 99 323i and the parts are for a 99 323i. i dont have a 4th wire like neil did on his clutch module mounted on the clutch master to run to the pin 8 of the ews module. but since the 99 323i never had that setup for a manual i figured i shouldnt need it. any ideas???


thanks
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:20 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvillelube View Post
I have a 99 323i we just did the manual swap on last night. we wired up the clutch switchs but unlike on neils car i dont have the 4 wire clutch module on the clutch master cylinder. I have 2 clutch switches on the pedel. both 3 wire. I wired them together. ground to ground, dme pin 23 wire together and 12 volt power source wires together. when the clutch pedel is down and trying to start the car i have power coming to my wire i ran to the dme pin 23 but the car does not turn over. I checked and i am on pin 23 and getting 12 volts only when the clutch is down with the key in starting position only. anyone have any ideas? also i checked at the starter and i do have 12 volts at starter big wire comeing in but no power to the little solenoid wire when key is in start position. any help would be great. my consern is since i have a 99 323i and the parts are for a 99 323i. i dont have a 4th wire like neil did on his clutch module mounted on the clutch master to run to the pin 8 of the ews module. but since the 99 323i never had that setup for a manual i figured i shouldnt need it. any ideas???


thanks
IIRC, The Tim had a thread where he switched his old E46 to the dual switch setup. Should have wiring information in his thread.
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:40 PM   #273
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I wrote somewhere... If you are having a hard time getting the car to start w/ legitimate wiring, you can temporarily ghetto-wire the body side automatic transmission harness pins together and the car will start. I'm away from home but I will look into your problem asap <3
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:38 PM   #274
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thanks man. I will have a sa code for you in about a week or 2.I just bought a gt1. I'm about to start digging into the starting issue again. I own european auto repair here in greenville sc and im sure ill get it started soon but we went to sleep at 8 am this morning after pulling a all nighter last night doing the swap after a full work day at our shop. so needless to say i was very tired and didnt want to fool with the starting issue at 8 am since i had been up 24 straight hours. plus doing that whole swap in a night is alot of work. we had a rounded off torque converter bolt that was a PITA! do you have a program that can generate a sa code? i found a program for ever ago but lost it.

thanks,
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:36 PM   #275
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hey all!!!! just completed my 5 speed conversion!!! it is like a new car i will post a thread with install info and pics soon! one question is crossing my mind... i have a new vehicle order i will be uploading on monday (i work at a certified bmw dealer) will this fix my "high RPM when shifting issue"? (when i shift from gear to gear my rpms stay higher than normal?
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:10 PM   #276
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hey all!!!! just completed my 5 speed conversion!!! it is like a new car i will post a thread with install info and pics soon! one question is crossing my mind... i have a new vehicle order i will be uploading on monday (i work at a certified bmw dealer) will this fix my "high RPM when shifting issue"? (when i shift from gear to gear my rpms stay higher than normal?
What do you mean higher than normal? What's normal? Also what gear diff do you have?

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Old 01-21-2012, 12:11 AM   #277
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well i got it started but I had to do it with the 2 to 8 pin jumper. I tried everything using the clutch switch but still nothing. So i'm going to do some searching and see what I can figure out but for now it runs and I drove it home. Now the only thing I have lit up on the dash is the check engine light and the trans light. the traction control light, abs and brake light are all off and never came on. I'm thinking maybe because I have a 99 e46 that the manual/automatic coding in the dsc module are the same. the check engine light i'm use to anyway since I have catless headers and live in sc so i have no emission laws. I have a Cluster out of my manual doner car i used for the swap so I am going to swap that into my car and then use my bmw 1.3.6 scanner to correct my mileage in the new manual cluster. the manual cluster i know will take care of the transmission light because there is no led where the gear light is on the manual cluster. so only reason i need to still do coding is because i will have the check engine light on for the transmission. I'm about to send the dme to AA for a reflash for catless headers and secondary air pump delete. I'm going to see if they can code it there for a manual swap.... I'll keep everyone posted. If they cant ill just use my GT1. Neil thanks for the great write up. took a total of 8 hours to do the swap. like Neil said in this thread If you can change a clutch you can do the swap. Its fun having the 3.46 gearing to!
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:08 PM   #278
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well...

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What do you mean higher than normal? What's normal? Also what gear diff do you have?

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it seems like it is adapting to it, but what is going on is the rpms continue to rise after i let off the gas during shifts.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:23 PM   #279
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neil after i get pin 23 dme wire to start the car,can i remove the transmission computer and wiring harness and everything else still work on the car or does the transmission computer control anything else?
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:42 PM   #280
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I mentioned somewhere in here, you have to disconnect the automatic transmission computer right before coding otherwise you'll throw an error.
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