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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 03-29-2009, 07:57 PM   #21
jhriss
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YEah, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 0W-40 and change every 3K still and use Bosch oil filter. What do you think of that?
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:27 AM   #22
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I think it's an overkill, change it at 7500 miles
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:34 AM   #23
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Nah, no way man, I drive like I'm on the race track all the time and with 9 psi and tons of mods to a 330Xi with 90K on it now, I think it is money well spent to change and use the best oil constantly. I have Laser Inteceptors jammers, V1.8 detector, scanner, and a speed cheetah on all my rides, so driving really fast and flooring it is a way of life for me while on the road.
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:02 AM   #24
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If you REALLY want to spend some money, the all-aluminum radiator/expansion tank might be a good option. But it costs $1500.

I have the Stewart pump which will pay for itself over 3 water pump changes and save some aggravation. I'd have to go through about 6 OEM radiators (or 540,000 miles at a 90k interval) to break even. Not worth if for me. But it does look pretty robust and it comes with an aluminum expansion tank.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:28 AM   #25
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I run this. http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...de=M54ALUTHERM
They now have a $199 version as well.
I'm in Seattle, too, I love this thermostat!

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Old 03-31-2009, 12:54 PM   #26
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Whoa dude, that is awesome!!! I would have never found that. So is that just the housing kit? As in I still have to put in the thermostat into the housing kit?
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:01 PM   #27
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They have the complete thermostat with housing in milled alumumium which is just SEX, but expensive. That's the one I have.

Their new one is the plastic OEM thermostat modified with the milled base plate to accept normal thermostats. $199 includes a modified thermostat, base plate, etc.

You can also get the milled base plate and mod your existing thermostat for $50 less. I highly recommend Zionsville for any cooling needs, they are the cooling system experts.

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Old 03-31-2009, 01:29 PM   #28
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Whoa!!!! Holy crap, I just noticed it is $489.00 !!!!!!! for a thermostat ???? WTF?? So yeah, I guess this is super rare to buy and most do not use it, so they have to have the mark up to make profits, but honestly I think a lot more people would buy it if it didn't cost likre $500 . That is nutty, I'll just replace mine every 2 years at that rate for $49 each time as the coolant needs to be flushed and repalaced each year anyway. Oooooooooooooooh, not mention, this is the motor sport thermostat that I mentioned and posted about up top earlier on in this thread. It is not compatible with the DME and ECU, you must have a custom engine control unit to handle this, and as it was said, the electronically controlled one is quite amazing on it's own, vs. mechanical that almost all other lower end cars us. Wow, less for more it seems. A mechanical one for $489 and Electronic one for $49 from BMW. My Jeep SRT8 has a Jet Performance 180 degree thermostat, and was only $35 .. so hmmmm. I just asked Hans at ESS, he said no no no way!! Do not use this on his sc set up, it would not work and he said I would so no improvement for my set up. Ok, just saving some people $500 plus. Now if you have an aftemarket full on control unit for you engine and it's tuned out like a beast and you track all day long, then yes, this is a good way to spend $500, but not for 99% of us.
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Old 03-31-2009, 02:42 PM   #29
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That is why they have the $199 version that modifies the orginal themostat housing to use conventional thermostats. That is only $199. Yes, $489 is steep which is why they came out with the new version. http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...t_Code=M54CTPK

A lower temp thermostat is good for any setup. The engine is designed to run hot from the factory for the sake of emissions. NOT power! As a result, the higher coolant system pressure ruptures plastic coolant tanks and such. Plus, the stock thermostat is known to stick. I agree that an overly cold cooling sytem is bad, but not this one that brings your engine to normal temps. What is their reason for saying this is bad?

As far as not being compatible with the stock ECU I call bullshit. The only reason it will trigger a CEL is if you leave the harness connector to the thermostat disconnected. No more connector on the motorsport thermostat? Use a 100Ohm load resistor. That willl bypass the MOSFET load error detection and not trigger the CEL.

Last edited by hoveringuy; 03-31-2009 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 03-31-2009, 02:50 PM   #30
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Hey hoveringuy, you say that this has the hook ups for the DME and will be compatible with my set up then? I think that ESS is saying no way to the mechanical one, cause their software needs to get readings from the stock thermostat to function properly. I agree with the for emissions statement. Just let me know if this will be a drop in plug and play piece then and what needs to be done to make it work if it is more complex than that.
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Old 03-31-2009, 03:16 PM   #31
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Hey hoveringuy, you say that this has the hook ups for the DME and will be compatible with my set up then? I think that ESS is saying no way to the mechanical one, cause their software needs to get readings from the stock thermostat to function properly. I agree with the for emissions statement. Just let me know if this will be a drop in plug and play piece then and what needs to be done to make it work if it is more complex than that.
What I am saying is that the $199 Zionsville unit will do the exact same thing as the $500 turner one you quoted early in the thread. I'm not sure if the Zionsville one actually has a connection or not. It doesn't matter. The ECU isn't taking a reading from the thermostat, it will send a command to it (it will switch the ground that enables current) to melt the wax causing the thermostat to go to a lower temperature mode. If the connector is taken off it will throw a CEL because the MOSFET in the ECU is smart enough to know when there is no load and will flag the processor to throw a CEL.

A power resistor connected across the thermostat connector will result in enough load to keep the ECU happy.

Here is the datasheet for a similar MOSFET: http://web.media.mit.edu/~dmerrill/m...oid_driver.pdf


In the description it talks about a flag for over/under current. Under current is what happens when it is not connected. Easily solved!

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Old 03-31-2009, 03:35 PM   #32
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Holy crap!!!! That link scares the crap out of me man, I don't get any of that!!!! I am a computer and extreme sports guy, I don't work on cars. Can you just put it in lamens terms for us here. I am not a DIY guy at all, I go to a shop, pay money, pick my ride up, and enjoy. I do the foot work to make the mod happen and I make the money, I don't have time to do this myself. So dude, I totally want to do this, but if you could be precise like. Get this thermostat, like you did, then say, get this resistor, and splice it in the wire here, etc. and this is how you do it and this is the end result, that would be great.

Other than that, if I took this to my shop, they would install it, and that is it, and if a CEL light came on, unless I told them what to do based on your specific part specs and install info etc. they would not mess with it.


Let me know man,


Thanks again!
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:04 PM   #33
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Holy crap!!!! That link scares the crap out of me man, I don't get any of that!!!! I am a computer and extreme sports guy, I don't work on cars. Can you just put it in lamens terms for us here. I am not a DIY guy at all, I go to a shop, pay money, pick my ride up, and enjoy. I do the foot work to make the mod happen and I make the money, I don't have time to do this myself. So dude, I totally want to do this, but if you could be precise like. Get this thermostat, like you did, then say, get this resistor, and splice it in the wire here, etc. and this is how you do it and this is the end result, that would be great.

Other than that, if I took this to my shop, they would install it, and that is it, and if a CEL light came on, unless I told them what to do based on your specific part specs and install info etc. they would not mess with it.


Let me know man,


Thanks again!
I'll make it even easier... Zionsville says this has a connector and will not cause a CEL. That makes it even better than the Turner unit (and much cheaper!).
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:07 PM   #34
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Hahahah! OH yes!! I just called and spoke with Jeremy and he said that he has it on his 2003 323Ci and that is has a connector, but will not complete the circuit, but that it in fact does not even throw a cel light at all, that neither of them do, and that the full metal single piece all aluminum one is just more expensive cause one piece and fancy, and that the $199 one is the same temp and performance. As many part descriptions tell you, if your thermostat goes out it won't put on dash light, it will freeze up closed, and you'll get alight when the engine temp is too high, and too late basically, so having the mechanical one and not electric to the DME is not a risk, and very advantageous to performance and cooling.

I have ordered the $199 one and will have it put in when it is here with the new stewart pump and all.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:44 PM   #35
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Be sure to let us know if you notice any difference. Perhaps you could indulge in before and after dynos to rule out any placebo effects?
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Old 03-31-2009, 08:40 PM   #36
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Ok then, will be sure to do.
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Old 03-31-2009, 10:44 PM   #37
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Also be sure to log your coolant temps before and after (along with ambient temps). You can find directions in one of the Easter Egg threads for unlocking the OBC to display coolant temps, menu item 7 I believe. Pay particular attention to coolant temps after some WOT runs as well as while idling in traffic.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:40 AM   #38
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it has a connector, but will not complete the circuit, but that it in fact does not even throw a cel light at all, that neither of them do,

If neither of them throw a CEL then why does Turner say to use it ony with Motec, etc??

In any case, for $199 it's cheap insurance against a common failure and everybit as good as the $500 Turner unit (probably better)
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:09 PM   #39
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Dude, I know man. The only thing about the expensive ones is they are one single piece of solid aluminum, hence much more expensive to make. This $199 unit will do the same thing exactly, but is just not as strong.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:55 PM   #40
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Ok, so my ride will be dropped off tomorrow and the low temp zionville $200 thermo will go in with the stewart water pump. I will report back, the only thing is that with the new metal impeller high end robust pump vs. the old crappy plastic impeller pump, if I see lower temps etc and better cooling it will be because that and the thermo, so result may be skewed.

Funny thing is today my tech, looked at the thermo and we didn't see the back plate etc. and thought it would not seal, then we thought the thermo said 53 degrees C, but then we saw it was a 9, so 92 vs. 97 degrees Celsius is just about right on. He said that the engine being hotter is more power, but that air temps being cooler is more power, not the engine being cooler. But I said with the set up I have I need to keep the engine cooler so it is more conistent and safer. He said that would be the case, but that the heater would be slower to warm up a bit and that I would be safer, and lower coolant temps, but could be actually slower with this aftermarket thermo, because the stock one lets the dme tell it what to do if it needs to do it and can keep the car running optimal at start up and full on.

I guess we'll see. Any thoughts?
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