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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 05-26-2009, 11:12 AM   #61
sirch
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I would be tempted to do that...

-$4600 for a Miller Dynasty 200 Complete package (The welder I use at school is around $8000 for the complete setup )
-$500 in materials for a 3" stainless exhaust

1 person: $5100.00 per exhaust
2 people: $2800.00 per exhaust
3 people: $2033.33 per exhaust
4 people: $1650.00 per exhaust
5 people: $1420.00 per exhaust
6 people: $1266.67 per exhaust
7 people: $1157.14 per exhaust
8 people: $1075.00 per exhaust

8 is probably the most I could do in a year since these things are extremely labor intensive. At 6 people the exhaust is already cheaper than a UUC TSE3 exhaust, significantly lighter, and hopefully I can get some good dyno numbers once I finish mine.

Maybe I'd add a little placard to personalize each saying something like:

No. 1 of 8
Made for Hans Stück
by Miles Kodama

If you live without the water line in your tig you can get a nice used tig for under $1k no problem.
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:14 AM   #62
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You can also use stainless wire in a mig, just dial in your gas right and move fast so you do not burn through on the bends.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:42 AM   #63
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If you live without the water line in your tig you can get a nice used tig for under $1k no problem.
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You can also use stainless wire in a mig, just dial in your gas right and move fast so you do not burn through on the bends.
I'm kinda picky when it comes to machines. True, I could get something cheaper, but it wouldn't be very enjoyable to use as well as it wouldn't be worth it for me. Kinda like giving an advanced photographer a disposable camera. Sure they could take some good pictures, but nothing near as nice as what they could do with a professional digital SLR.

I figure if I'm spending so much money, it should be for something I am really happy with.

And I've seen a little bit of stainless mig welding. It was not nearly as pretty, as well as there are things like the collector that I doubt would be doable with mig.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:58 AM   #64
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Oh yeah, and an update!

I was supposed to come in just to turn in my final and help cleanup, but I just used the band saw and my tig machine instead! I only tacked the exhaust together.
-I still need to verify fitment of the rear half of the exhaust.
-I need to polish up the bit of piping I am using for the exhaust tip, because it's a lot easier to polish a 6" piece of pipe instead of a full exhaust.
-I need to put on the flanges to bolt the exhaust to the exhaust manifold.
-I need to fabricate and weld the rear muffler hangars.
-I need to fabricate some mid section supports.
Then I can fully weld everything together and install and test it out. I just don't know where i can borrow a welder though...













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Old 05-27-2009, 03:01 AM   #65
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the end part that conects to the headers looks like its not free flowing, it goes in.. ?
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:05 AM   #66
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the end part that conects to the headers looks like its not free flowing, it goes in.. ?
Huh?
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:07 AM   #67
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:53 AM   #68
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Miles the new build is looking great.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:58 PM   #69
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Huh?
He's Canadian. Ignore him.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:00 PM   #70
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the end part that conects to the headers looks like its not free flowing, it goes in.. ?
DAMN YOUR MAPLE LEAFS!

I think I understand what you are saying, but Burns Stainless actually makes collectors that look similar to that.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:15 AM   #71
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I test fit everything, and from making an exhaust by eye, everything fits pretty damn good. Front half fits just fine, but I run into problems near where my resonator and fuel cell are. I guess I need to move the bend right before the resonator further forward so that the resonator moves an inch or two to the left of the car. Because of the resonator coming into contact with the side of the transmission tunnel, i can't tuck it completely up and out of the way. As is the resonator hangs about a inch below stock, which works just fine, but isn't satisfactory in my eyes. Also there is very little space between the exhaust and the lower rear control arm and rear sway bar. Once again, it would work, but the design could be better.

I'm also not sure about what to do with the V-band clamp and exhaust wrap. I am thinking I will go without those for now and see if any problems arise.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:48 AM   #72
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And here is a parts list should anyone decide to do this. This is not exactly what I bought, but if I were to do it again, this is what I'd order:



I haven't quite gotten to the midsection support part yet so that may add something to the list, as well as I still have to install this setup and test it out so this list is not final...
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Old 06-07-2009, 04:36 PM   #73
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wow very impressive.
quick question how much should a shop charge me to do a quad set up with 3'' pipping with glass packs.

thanks!
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:33 PM   #74
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Sigh... I wish I could finish up this exhaust. It just needs a few more cuts and welds. Well, the welds aren't particularly simple since they take about 30 minutes each.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:28 AM   #75
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Nice work Miles!

From my experience with my car, I would have taken a different approach. (Not that practical....but I think it's the best way to do a project like this)

Place the muffler and resonator exactly where you want them under the car, and make temp support brackets to hold them in place. (Don't use the factory hanger locations...you'll need those later) From there I would mock up the pipe work, only tack welding the sections together.

Start with the header flange; bolt this to the header and work backwards from there. You don't want to be twisting the headers to make the rest of the exhaust fit, so this is the best place to start as a foundation.

Once you have everything mocked up, take the exhaust off the car and finish weld all the sections together. I suggest making block off plates to back-purge the assembly, and starting work near the gas source then working down the work piece.

Mount the piece back onto the car to fabricate the mounting brackets. Doing this last allows you to compensate for changes while finish welding.

While I've been guilty of this myself, try to refrain from doing any polish work until after you've actually done a final test fitment and trial use.

My KK exhaust wasn't exactly a "bolt on" part, so the above is what I learned.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:25 AM   #76
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wanna see some ugly welds? this was my first attempt at getting a custom exhaust. im never letting this a55hole touch any part of my car again.



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Old 06-14-2009, 03:08 PM   #77
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wanna see some ugly welds? this was my first attempt at getting a custom exhaust. im never letting this a55hole touch any part of my car again.



WTH? My girlfriend welds better than that!
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:46 PM   #78
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Nice work Miles!

From my experience with my car, I would have taken a different approach. (Not that practical....but I think it's the best way to do a project like this)

Place the muffler and resonator exactly where you want them under the car, and make temp support brackets to hold them in place. (Don't use the factory hanger locations...you'll need those later) From there I would mock up the pipe work, only tack welding the sections together.

Start with the header flange; bolt this to the header and work backwards from there. You don't want to be twisting the headers to make the rest of the exhaust fit, so this is the best place to start as a foundation.

Once you have everything mocked up, take the exhaust off the car and finish weld all the sections together. I suggest making block off plates to back-purge the assembly, and starting work near the gas source then working down the work piece.

Mount the piece back onto the car to fabricate the mounting brackets. Doing this last allows you to compensate for changes while finish welding.

While I've been guilty of this myself, try to refrain from doing any polish work until after you've actually done a final test fitment and trial use.

My KK exhaust wasn't exactly a "bolt on" part, so the above is what I learned.
That's some solid advice, and also very professional advice. My welding professor also suggested back-purging the exhaust too. But the biggest problem was that I didn't have my car when I was mocking everything up, only my stock exhaust. If I did have my car, then I would have done exactly as you said as well as it would have been so much easier. As a result, I wasn't able to mock up the entire thing at once as well as working with such small portions at a time made the back-purging kinda difficult and time consuming.


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Originally Posted by Afrothunderr86 View Post
wanna see some ugly welds? this was my first attempt at getting a custom exhaust. im never letting this a55hole touch any part of my car again.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4...6/SNV14099.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4...6/SNV14098.jpg
Heh, yeah, those aren't very pretty. That's the thing with MIG welding... anybody can do it and it's nothing structural so usually no certification or anything is needed. If you are good at MIG welding thin metal though, you can make it look a lot better.

TIG welding on the other hand is just overly precise, pretty, and time consuming(expensive) for most exhaust work.
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Old 08-21-2009, 01:50 AM   #79
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Well, I'm back in welding class for fall semester. The good new is that our welding department got a major update, cleaning, and organization, apparently at a cost of around $500k. The bad news is that the contractors are behind schedule and haven't finished. The delay I've heard from talking to the welding teachers is around a month.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:09 AM   #80
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