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General E46 Forum
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:52 PM   #1
drfreeman
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Should I replace my oil seperator CVV

Just wondering how many miles the oil seperator can last. My stealership service advicer said, it is the time to change the CVV at ~ 60000, it won't last for too long. But is this truth ? Even my car has no CVV problem at all ? He also said it won't last til 100000, it will fail very soon. My warranty is almost over, He said I have to pay the cost of the hoses around the valve about 250 bucks they take care the rest ! Since it is a pretty good deal, so I should change it now or wait until it fail one day and pay more to fix it ?
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Old 05-08-2009, 04:01 PM   #2
wolfhead
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I would change it now then since you get it cheaper. I changed mine at 59000 miles.
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Old 05-08-2009, 04:10 PM   #3
TiAgTouring
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Mine is acting up right now. I am at 145k...so I assume I have already had one installed once. Part doesn't cost much...labor is a ton.
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Old 05-08-2009, 04:39 PM   #4
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if it is $250, DO IT NOW. I just changed mine at 80K. It was acting up... It is a royal pain in the but!!!
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:27 PM   #5
drfreeman
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Thanks for the advice, I guess I should do it before the warranty gone.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:58 PM   #6
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Is that $250 for just the hoses? Tischer sells the whole kit for $150 shipped (including the CCV unit). I wouldn't necessarily expect they'd let you, but I suppose you might try convincing them to let you supply the parts, and asking them to provide the labor for free under the warranty. (Might be worth a try )

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:35 PM   #7
drfreeman
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Originally Posted by jorg323 View Post
Is that $250 for just the hoses? Tischer sells the whole kit for $150 shipped (including the CCV unit). I wouldn't necessarily expect they'd let you, but I suppose you might try convincing them to let you supply the parts, and asking them to provide the labor for free under the warranty. (Might be worth a try )

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462
Thanks jorg, well, I will try that but don't forget "stealership" is stealership, they will try every possible way to let you open up your wallet.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:48 PM   #8
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If you can get them to do it for $250 and a car wash I say go for it!!!
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:25 PM   #9
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176K on mine but its starting to act up so probably next month its gonna get replaced
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:26 PM   #10
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Doooo it!!!
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:28 PM   #11
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176K on mine but its starting to act up so probably next month its gonna get replaced

What are the symptoms?
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Old 05-09-2009, 11:00 AM   #12
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If you can get them to do it for $250 and a car wash I say go for it!!!
Car wash is always included, even you just bring it in for diagnosis.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:27 PM   #13
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What are the symptoms?
Nothing audible during start-up and while running but about 2 seconds after shut down I get this abrupt creaking sound accompanied by a rush of air as if a gate valve has suddenly let go.

I had it diagnosed by local indy shop and said it was a signal that CCV was on its way out. Said that the sound was not an indication that it would fail immediately and that i still had plenty of time to deal with it. As in a few months.
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:38 PM   #14
drfreeman
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got all the hoses online. 100% BMW genuine parts for $ 120 vs stealer quote $ 242. Big different ! They changed the CVV for me today. After they dissemble everything and found the DISA valve flap pin mount crack and the lower intake boot crack. They replaced both for me. This solved my cold start misfire idle problem and the 4000rpm dip even after 41.1 software update. Car running smooth and powerful now. Total I paid $ 81 to the stealership $ 50 cpo deductible and $ 29 lower intake boot, online cost only $ 14. still stealership but what else I can say. I saved over $ 500 for all these fixes.
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Old 09-15-2009, 06:25 PM   #15
devedean
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I'm curious about whether my CCV needs to be replaced. I recently (within 6 months) did the following:

VANOS Seals
Valve cover gasket
All coils and spark plugs
Intake/Exhaust cam positioning sensors
Engine flush with Redline oil change

My symptoms are as follows:

*SES light on
*Rough Idle (not bouncy or erratic, the engine vibrates the whole car....not smooth)
*The engine chokes when letting out the clutch at low RPMs (500 - 1500) from a stop
*General lack of mid range power (2500 - 3500 RPM) but good acceleration at higher RPMs
*When turning off the car, the engine makes a sort of cluck when it completely stops

As far as I know, the CCV valve and associated hoses have never been replaced. The car is a manual 2000 323i with 101,000 miles.

Thanks!!
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:12 PM   #16
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I just scanned the codes with my new Peake tool and it read the following:

VANOS, faulty exhaust reference value
misfire #5
misfire #3
misfire #6

I'm guessing the faulty exhaust value message is causing the misfires since I've replaced all the coils recently. Anyone have any ideas? Did I screw something up when I replaced the VANOS seals?

Quote:
Originally Posted by devedean View Post
I'm curious about whether my CCV needs to be replaced. I recently (within 6 months) did the following:

VANOS Seals
Valve cover gasket
All coils and spark plugs
Intake/Exhaust cam positioning sensors
Engine flush with Redline oil change

My symptoms are as follows:

*SES light on
*Rough Idle (not bouncy or erratic, the engine vibrates the whole car....not smooth)
*The engine chokes when letting out the clutch at low RPMs (500 - 1500) from a stop
*General lack of mid range power (2500 - 3500 RPM) but good acceleration at higher RPMs
*When turning off the car, the engine makes a sort of cluck when it completely stops

As far as I know, the CCV valve and associated hoses have never been replaced. The car is a manual 2000 323i with 101,000 miles.

Thanks!!
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:15 PM   #17
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when a CCV fails it will start eating oil. It can eat everything in your crankcase and hydro lock your motor. Mine went at 135k and was the oe one still. The only code I had was for multiple misfire and the engine ran rough and hesitated. It will also throw thick Grey smoke out the muffler. I got the ccv and 4 hoses for $140 and had a good friend that works on my cousins BMW for awhile now change it for next to nothing. I would do it asap as you could seriously damage the motor. I was loosing 1 qt every 500 miles.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:29 PM   #18
mattcarle21
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Can someone help me. My car is burning a quart every 2000-2500 miles. When I take the oil cap off while its running it has a pretty good suction on it, but no noise. When I turn it off, the engine comes to a stop and then it sounds like a one second long quiffe (spelling?). Is it going bad. I'm a 134k.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:44 PM   #19
devedean
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Nope. No oil levels changing drasticaly or at all for that matter. The oil level has always stayed rock solid from one change to the next. Does this rue out the CCV going bad? Any ideas what might be wrong?



Quote:
Originally Posted by whitexi View Post
when a CCV fails it will start eating oil. It can eat everything in your crankcase and hydro lock your motor. Mine went at 135k and was the oe one still. The only code I had was for multiple misfire and the engine ran rough and hesitated. It will also throw thick Grey smoke out the muffler. I got the ccv and 4 hoses for $140 and had a good friend that works on my cousins BMW for awhile now change it for next to nothing. I would do it asap as you could seriously damage the motor. I was loosing 1 qt every 500 miles.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:51 PM   #20
whitexi
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Yea what happens when a ccv goes bad it starts to send the crankcase oil into the intake rather than back in to the dipstick tube and down to the oil pan. Its really an issue in the colder areas ( mine went last winter ) due to short trips that cause condensation to build in the ccv and when its not run to get rid of this it then freezes and gets clogged. It then breaks and changes the route as to where its supposed to send oil. When they fail it can loose little oil or just empty the crankcase. I drove mine for about 500 miles before I realized what was happening and this is what BMW told me to change. Ben perfect ever since. The smoke will be a thick Grey. Im guessing due to it being full syn oil I was told it won't burn blue like regular oil. It was bad at stop lights or idle. Ran rough but once cruising it was ok till it got really bad and eventually wouldn't run.

Last edited by whitexi; 09-21-2009 at 06:53 PM.
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