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Old 05-12-2009, 03:18 PM   #1
diablo666l
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OEM Nav to AVIC Z3 - Verbose Install

This thread had pictures, but for some reason they disappeared. I will do my best to get them back up tonight


Hey E46ers!

Well, after 3 long months, tons of lessons learned, and lots of research completed, I hope this will become a guide for anyone who wants to swap out their OEM GPS units for any double dinn setup.

This post is VERY wordy, hense the 'verbose' in the title. I know it is a lot to read but if it is a very informative guide that will help you with your install

Since a picture is worth a 1000 words, here is the before and after. Everything is fully functional, and works just as it should:




Here is a mini table of contents for how this post will flow:
1. Credentials
2. Resoruces
3. What I had
4. What I wanted
5. What I installed
6. What to Know
7. Harmon Kardon Myths Debugged
8. Installation Phase 1
9. Installation Phase 2


1. Credentials
A lot of posts on this forum sound like they come from an authority - and all though some of them do, most of them don't. I graduated Lehigh University with a B.S. in Mechanical Engineering, a minor in computer science, and a concentration in Robotic Automation and Manufacturing. I spent a lot of time in the Electrical Engineering labs, and have some pretty strong roots in how all that stuff works. I've installed two full car stereo setups, and have completed countless smaller electrical projects. I worked as a professional Home Theatre, Home Automation, and Home Audio installer, and have been a network engineer for the past year. I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER. ALL DIY PROJECTS COME WITH INHERIT RISKS. I do not certify or take responsibillity for any misinformation in this post, but I will do everything I can to outline EXACTLY how I did my install. Everything works for me, and I hope it works for you too.

2. Resources
There are two guides I found that became my install bible:
Verbose DIY from Buisness Radio to Aftermarket GPS
Please read the ^ above ^ post before reading mine!
M3 Full Audio Upgrade
Attached to this post are 3 pdfs:
a. navigationRetrofitSedan.pdf - shows what you are starting with in your BMW
b. template-d-din.pdf - use this template when mounting your Nav unit
c. speaker and wire specs.pdf - use this as your wire guide. I tested everything on this sheet, including the speaker ohms, and it is 100% accurate.
d. message me for a great guide for installing the unit in your dash (too big to attach, or search for E46 Mounting Install D Din)

3. What I had
I started with a MARKIV GPS with Harmon Kardon mounted in a 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP. My system had the rear shelf mounted subwoofer and the trunk mounted Radio tuner. The Radio Tuner made things very tricky in the beginning.

4. What I wanted
I wanted more power, richer, crisper, brighter sound. I wanted more features I felt the OEM GPS didn't have. I wanted Ipod control, voice control and the abillity to watch dvd's as I drive. DISCLAIMER: I know you can do all of these things with the stock unit, but i didnt like the interface or the sound, which were my two big gripes. Second off, please don't flame me about watching DVDs as I drive. I usually put in Concert DVDs when I'm stuck in traffic, and only glance at them occasionally. It is more for passengers then me

5. What I installed
At the end of the day, I walked away with a Pioneer AVIC Z3, bluetooth, ipod connectivity, rear seat video/audio inputs, a 1200 watt mu-dimension amp, 2 3-way cross overs, and 2 2-way cross overs.

6. What to Know
For the most part, most everything is covered in the Verbose DIY listed above under resoruces. Please read that before reading my post!
1. No really, go read that post!
2. The airbox behind the GPS unit will have to be modified.
2a. The damper valve controller arm MUST BE MODIFIED. There is no way around this. I tried everything, you must modifiy it.
3. I run RCA to the trunk to get my audio to work. Read the next section to understand why
4. All power, lighting, control, and sense can be found where the factory units are, or in the fuse box on the passenger side.
5. The BMW OEM amp is tiny, underpowered, and has great frequency loss. My stock speakers now ROCK with a new amp. Replace it, you will be glad you did.
6. The SVEN4 by Perhipial is a great item to have. Although it is intended for other purposes, I used it to connect my RCA to the factory amp so I didn't have to cut and strip the RCA, and maintain gain controlls.
7. You can retain steering wheel controls using an adapter from PAC
8. Your new system will sound AWESOME. Mine sounds incredible, way better than the factory system (and better than my friend's Audio A4 with MB Quartz). Anyone in the Raleigh, NC area who wants to hear mine, drop me a PM!
9. DIYs are meant to be fun. You will make mistakes, you will get frustrated. Follow this guide and the resources and you will be able to do it all yourself, and save about $3000 (which is what I was quoted on for the install).

7. Harmon Kardon Myths Debugged
There is a lot of information out there on the Harmon Kardon system. Here is the correct answers according to my research and technical knowledge. NOTE: the original post has been changed, thanks to Technic's much more accurate representation of the OEM system. Special thanks to him! (you can see his post below).

1. There are four components to the GPS system. The Screen, the AMP, the Nav Computer and the Radio tuner. The only difference between the HK system and stock system is the AMP (you either get a standard amp or an HK amp). The rest of the components are interchangeable.
2. Regular (aftermarket) headunits send Line Level audio (RCA type) signals to aftermarket amps. The Harmon Kardon system sends 5v audio back to the radio tuner which then sends it to the AMP.
3. In order to get your aftermarket headunit to work with your factor amp, you will need to run RCA to the trunk, or repurpose the wires to act like RCAs. This is possible, but I haven't tried it. I ran new RCA to the trunk (Front Left and Right, Rear Left and Right, and Sub Left and Right)
4. In the coupe, there are 12 speakers. 10 of them powered by the OEM Amp, the other 2 are the shelf mounted subwoofers. They have their own AMP, and are 2 6x9 speakers. They do a good job of producing low bass when properly configured. Although I will replace it, it is not necessary.

There are THREE speakers located in each door. One tweeter, one mid, and one woofer. Systems such as these are called component speakers. I did not replace mine (yet) and the system sounds incredible. With the proper input, the speakers have a good, strong frequency response. Component speakers need CROSSOVERS. Crossovers provide two functions:
1. They make sure the speakers do not overload the amp. Speakers have different resistivities, and amps can usually handle 1.8-2.3 ohms, or 3-5 ohms. Most amps are rated for 2 ohms mono bridged, or 4 ohms per channel.
2. They also make sure that each speaker only gets the frequency range it can respond to. Sending low frequencies to tweeters will make them sound 'muddy' while sending high frequencies to woofers will cause them to sound 'hollow' or 'empty'
If you choose to replace the OEM amp, you will need aftermarket crossovers to provide these functions. I got mine from ebay, for $50 total, and they sound great.

There is a tweeter mounted above the arm rest for the rear passengers. This tweeter is an unsual size, and difficult to replace.
There are 2 6x9 speakers on the rear shelf. They provide rear fill, as most good audio systems are front staged (louder in the front then in the back).

For more information on how audio systems work, please PM me.

8. Installation Phase 1

My 'Phase 1' Install was to get my new aftermarket headunit running off the OEM amp. I wanted to do this upgrade in stages, for $ and time concerns.

Most of the PHASE 1 installation can be found in the first resoruce guide in the above post. I would rely mainly on that post for this portion of the install. Here are just a few additions and changed to that post:

1. I didn't remove the rear shelf to run my GPS aerial. I used a hole in the firewall (in the passenger footwell) to run the cable up through the battery compartment, and into the cabin air filter area (where the plastic grille is). I get great reception here, and have not yet had a problem.

2. I didnt mod the damper valve nearly as complicated as that post. I removed it, cut the top corner off so it would pass by my sheet metal air box mod. To stop air flow them the valve is closed, i hot glued the square onto the housing, so the valve swings freely, and the 'cut' portion remains steady. This was super simple, way easier, and works 100% perfect. For more info (no pics, but I can go into greater detail) PM me.

I. Microphone installation

If you have a voice activiated unit, or one that has a bluetooth adapter, you will need to run the microphone. I decided to place the mic in the same place as the OEM mic. The OEM mic is located near the lighting / sunroof controls:



You will need to run the MIC wire up the A pillar on the passenger side. There is a small cover that needs to pop off, and gives you access to three hex bolts. Becareful not to break to the clips for the cover. Once the A pillar cover is off, becareful not to blow the airbag up. The only way that thing will fire is if you cut or ground the wires attached to the charge (which isn't exactly true, but still, dont touch those wires!). Otherwise, feel free to move it around a bit in getting the mic wire up. Note: With every wire I run, I run a spare harness (18 gauge 4 conductor) for any future additions.



To get the wire over to the center pannel, remove the sun visor, and help guide the wire along the window. It will be easier than you think.

Here's how I mounted the AVIC microphone:


The AVIC Microphone works so-so, but in all the cars I have installed this unit, it never really works all that great. You have to shout a bit, and the bluetooth isn't exactly crystcal clear. Just learn so speak deep and loud!

II. Building a mounting bracket

Ok, so you have a few options here. You can find mounting kits online, and some of the bezels come with better brackets. The bezel I bought was from ebay, and didnt offer a lot to grab on to. I made my bracket out of sheet metal, and all I needed was a strong corner to bend the metal, and a pair of Tin Snips (which is a great tool to own for many projects)

Below is a picture of the sheet metal. Sides and bottom piece were simply traced out using the radio. The top right corner piece was used to rebuild the vent behind the dash (see verbose thread referenced previously).



Next was to mount the bracket to the bezel and to the headunit. Below is a picture of the bent sheet metal, and me marking the headunit's mounting holes. I used that sheet as a template to tap and drill the sheet metal



I mounted the bracket to that sheet metal housing as well. It worked perfectly, everything fits tight and snug - hooray for fitment WIN!

Here are some pictures (enlarged for sna77's giant 30" monitor ):

Yes, At this point in the install I was freaking out. Take a deep breath, go for a walk, and remember, this is meant to be FUN



All finished, lookin' sharp. It actually looks better then this, its just an odd angle




9. Installation Phase 2

Ok, so the audio works, and all the headunit features work perfectly. The audio quality however, was substandard. It clips on the highs, clips on the lows - it sounds horrible. I decided I wanted more control over frequency range, more power, and better technology. I decided to go with a bigger amp, and in doing so, required crossovers (see above).

I planned on mounting the aftermarket amp in the OEM amp location, but after some fitment issues, decided there was just enough space above the donut in the trunk.

I bought a termination strip from radio shack to help terminate and marry the wires in the trunk. This setup allowed me to mess with which wires go where, and was the best option to unwire and rewire the set up. Simply put: Buy this.

When cutting the OEM harness, remember to label each and every wire. BMW reuses wire colors, so forgetting which wire is which will create a monster hassle. That termination strip provides great assistance here.

Here is the setup. After I trimmed the wood, the false floor for the trunk sat right on top perfectly.


I tuned the amp to slighty above the lowest frequency, and put it in high pass mode. High Pass will "Pass" all frequencies "higher" than what is set.

I repurposed the Sven4 to interface between the RCAs and the Line Level audio the sub expects. For the 'remote' wire to the amp, I just repurposed a wire from the original harness that was no longer being used. I can go into more detail if you'd like, Just PM me!

Future of this post:
a. More pictures of the finished product (both headunit and trunk install)
b. detailed explination w/ pics for how I interfaced with the sub
c. the eventual 'phase 3' which will be dropping the subs from the rear shelf, and installing a single 10" sub (with a possible custom enclosure).
Attached Files
File Type: pdf navigationRetrofitSedan.pdf (744.6 KB, 207 views)
File Type: pdf template-d-din.pdf (9.6 KB, 191 views)
File Type: pdf speaker and wire specs.pdf (24.3 KB, 200 views)

Last edited by diablo666l; 05-18-2009 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:10 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by diablo666l View Post

7. Harmon Kardon Myths Debugged
There is a lot of information out there on the Harmon Kardon system. Here is the correct answers according to my research and technical knowledge
1. There are four components to the HK GPS system. The Headunit (the screen), the AMP, the Nav Computer and the DSP
2. Regular (aftermarket) headunits send Line Level audio (RCA type) signals to aftermarket amps. The Harmon Kardon system sends DATA back to the DSP which then sends it to the AMP
3. DSP stands for Digital Signal Processor, and they convert DATA to Audio. There is a DSP in your cell phone, one in your Ipod and one in your car. It is a necessary piece of equipment to go between digital signals and analog signals.
4. To get your aftermarket unit to work with your OEM AMP and DSP, you will need to convert RCA Line Level audio to DATA. This can be achieved by using a LOC, such as the SVEN4 by Perpherial. This is what I used for phase I.
5. The speaker button on your dash boosts the center load on the rear speakers and rear tweeters. This is how you get a 'bigger cabin' effect. It does not modify the subwoofer power, as some have claimed.
6. In the coupe, there are 12 speakers. 10 of them powered by the OEM Amp, the other 2 are the shelf mounted subwoofers. They have their own AMP, and are 2 6x9 speakers. They do a good job of producing low bass when properly configured. Although I will replace it, it is not necessary.
Before this DIY goes any further let's clarify the bolded comments above:

1. There is no such thing as the "HK GPS" in the E46, it is simply OEM Navigation. The sound system is either Top HiFi (Harman Kardon) or HiFi (standard system in the USA).

The OEM Nav components are the screen, the radio tuner and the GPS computer. The radio tuner speaker outputs are 5V balanced, low level, analog signals. There was no DSP audio processor of any kind offered in any USA E46 sound system from 1998 to 2006. None.

These 5V balanced signals are not able to drive a speaker directly, so there is the OEM amp to do that; speakers are driven by high level signals. The balanced signals topology is used because it is able to eliminate induced noise without shielding by using a cancellation circuit at the end (OEM amp). That's the reason balanced signals are not commonly accepted by aftermarket amps or LOCs, because they lack that cancellation circuitry.

2. The only data traffic in the OEM navigation is done thru the I-Bus line, and that is for control and display, no audio. The radio tuner, the screen and the GPS computer communicate between each other thru the I-Bus. The radio tuner send the 4-channel analog audio to the OEM amp thru common twisted wire. Again, there is no DSP inside this OEM amp.

3. NO DSP AUDIO IN ANY E46 3-SERIES. NONE.

4. There's no need to use an SVEN or any LOC to interface an aftermarket HU to the OEM amp, as the OEM amp inputs can accept high level signals (up to 20W per channel). You do need a balanced inputs LOC, like the SVEN, to add an aftermarket amp to the OEM radio tuner outputs, and only if that aftermarket amp does not accept balanced signals. Amps like Zapco, JL Audio, some Kicker and Alpine PDX amp accept balanced signals without the need of any LOC.

Not all passive LOCs accept balanced signals.

5. The button with the speaker icon in the center console activate the "Spatializer" effect in the OEM amp, as named by Harman Kardon. What this analog audio effect does is move the sound stage to the center of the car, creating the illusion of being in an area greater than the car cabin space (space = spatial).

Good luck...
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:02 PM   #3
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Installation Phase 1

Technic, thanks for the update. The original post up top has been edited to reflect some of your changes. I omitted the information that was not relevant to my original intent of the post.

Again, thank you for correcting me - I just wish I had found you BEFORE I did the install!!

Last edited by diablo666l; 05-12-2009 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:06 PM   #4
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Thanks for the corrections Technic.

Regardless, following this DIY will still get you the end result you are looking for. It is how I did it, and it currently works in my car.

As far as the DSP goes, when I called BMW North America, they referred to the Radio Tuner as the 'Trunk Mounted DSP'. Now I know!

One quick question then...If no 'data' or 'audio' is sent from the headunit back, how does the CD information get sent to the rear? When looking at the plug at the back of the Nav unit, there are what appears to be 3 coupled pairs of wires, I now will assume are 5v audio outputs front/rear/sub. Can you use re-purpose those wires with an aftermarket RCA setup so that you can avoid running RCA to the trunk?

Last edited by diablo666l; 05-12-2009 at 06:09 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:58 PM   #5
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Thanks for the corrections Technic.

Regardless, following this DIY will still get you the end result you are looking for. It is how I did it, and it currently works in my car.

As far as the DSP goes, when I called BMW North America, they referred to the Radio Tuner as the 'Trunk Mounted DSP'. Now I know!

One quick question then...If no 'data' or 'audio' is sent from the headunit back, how does the CD information get sent to the rear? When looking at the plug at the back of the Nav unit, there are what appears to be 3 coupled pairs of wires, I now will assume are 5v audio outputs front/rear/sub. Can you use re-purpose those wires with an aftermarket RCA setup so that you can avoid running RCA to the trunk?
It is not preposterous to say that BMWNA in this particular case is simply wrong. The definition of the E46 OEM amp in their own BMWtis.com site say that this amp is purely analog. It does have some built in EQ curves (mostly in the HK version, lesser effect in the HiFi) but again, that's thru analog tuning not DSP.

DSP was offered in X5(E53), 5-(E39), and 7-(E38) Series, not in the 3-(E46) Series.

I think that you are randomly mixing "data" with "audio"; one thing is not equal to the other. You can have audio information in data, and even data in an electrical signal but audio is audio and data is data. Two things, not one.

The CD player inside the OEM HU or in the NAV screen send the audio -already converted to analog from digital- to either the OEM HU preamp section or to the tuner preamp section. In the case of the tuner there are audio lines in the harness from the screen to the tuner.

The nav screen is a dumb unit, i.e., it only display and have the CD Player/Cassette or DAT (DAT was never offered in the USA), it is not a "HU". The radio tuner controls and display the graphics in the screen thru I Bus digital messages; it is the "HU". That's also the way the radio tuner controls the CD Changer, the iPod adapter and the Bluetooth. Audio is always completely in analog form from one device to another in the E46.

The radio tuner, as well as the OEM HU, only outputs 4 channels: F (L, R) and R (L, R). All the crossovers are active in the OEM amp. Therefore, the OEM tuner or HU outputs are relatively flat, full range, high quality and voltage, balanced signals.

Those are the signals that should be used to interface with aftermarket devices, not the OEM amp outputs.

You can go ahead and ask the moderators to remove my previous post, just clarify your remarks as a lot of people really follow what they read in forums when they want to upgrade their systems. Misinformation can cause a lot of problems down the line...
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:40 PM   #6
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nice write up
where'd u get the z3 from?
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:33 PM   #7
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It is not preposterous to say that BMWNA in this particular case is simply wrong. The definition of the E46 OEM amp in their own BMWtis.com site say that this amp is purely analog. It does have some built in EQ curves (mostly in the HK version, lesser effect in the HiFi) but again, that's thru analog tuning not DSP.

DSP was offered in X5(E53), 5-(E39), and 7-(E38) Series, not in the 3-(E46) Series.

I think that you are randomly mixing "data" with "audio"; one thing is not equal to the other. You can have audio information in data, and even data in an electrical signal but audio is audio and data is data. Two things, not one.

The CD player inside the OEM HU or in the NAV screen send the audio -already converted to analog from digital- to either the OEM HU preamp section or to the tuner preamp section. In the case of the tuner there are audio lines in the harness from the screen to the tuner.

The nav screen is a dumb unit, i.e., it only display and have the CD Player/Cassette or DAT (DAT was never offered in the USA), it is not a "HU". The radio tuner controls and display the graphics in the screen thru I Bus digital messages; it is the "HU". That's also the way the radio tuner controls the CD Changer, the iPod adapter and the Bluetooth. Audio is always completely in analog form from one device to another in the E46.

The radio tuner, as well as the OEM HU, only outputs 4 channels: F (L, R) and R (L, R). All the crossovers are active in the OEM amp. Therefore, the OEM tuner or HU outputs are relatively flat, full range, high quality and voltage, balanced signals.

Those are the signals that should be used to interface with aftermarket devices, not the OEM amp outputs.

You can go ahead and ask the moderators to remove my previous post, just clarify your remarks as a lot of people really follow what they read in forums when they want to upgrade their systems. Misinformation can cause a lot of problems down the line...

Diablo... nice write up--just make your before / after picture bigger... I have a 30" LCD monitor and am squinting trying to see the pictures...

BTW, I am the proud owner of Diablo's old Nav system, ha!

Technic... (as always)

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Old 05-12-2009, 11:37 PM   #8
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make your before / after picture bigger
Will do! Towards the end of the write up, i'll make it bigger (I shrunk that one on purpose)

Thanks for lookin' out!
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:19 AM   #9
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nice write up
where'd u get the z3 from?
ebay! $1100 shipped!
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:23 AM   #10
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I think that you are randomly mixing "data" with "audio"; one thing is not equal to the other. You can have audio information in data, and even data in an electrical signal but audio is audio and data is data. Two things, not one.
Although I know the difference between an audio signal and a data signal (being a network engineer helps!), I did mix the terms in the original post. That post has been corrected. Thanks for looking out!

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Old 05-13-2009, 05:44 AM   #11
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I would edit this line to say:

1. There are four components to the GPS system for the Harmon Kardon setup. The Screen, the AMP, the Nav Computer and the Radio tuner

to

1. There are four components to the GPS system. The Screen, the AMP, the Nav Computer and the Radio tuner. The only difference between the HK system and stock system is the AMP (you either get a standard amp or an HK amp). The rest of the components are interchangeable.
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:37 AM   #12
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I would edit this line to say:

1. There are four components to the GPS system for the Harmon Kardon setup. The Screen, the AMP, the Nav Computer and the Radio tuner

to

1. There are four components to the GPS system. The Screen, the AMP, the Nav Computer and the Radio tuner. The only difference between the HK system and stock system is the AMP (you either get a standard amp or an HK amp). The rest of the components are interchangeable.
edited!
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:36 PM   #13
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Guess the old amp pic doesn't work anymore:



Eventually, this set up will be fiberglassed and painted black.
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Audio: Pioneer AVIC Z3, 1200 Watt Mu Dimension Amp, Audio Pipe Crossovers
Lighting: CCFL Angel Eyes, Custom 'devil eyes', custom LED ambiance lighting, LED license plate lights, invisibulb turning signals
Performance: Front AC Schnitzer Strut Bar, Rear Ebay Strut Bar
Appearance: 20% Tint, Clear Bumper Reflectors, AC Schnitzer Aluminum pedals
Other: Viper 2-way Alarm/Remote Start
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:37 PM   #14
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Unit is getting removed, making way for something a little different. Crazy? Maybe...but once the fabrication is done, swapping the headunit ain't no thing!

Selling for $700 + $50 installed: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...5#post10961435
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2005 330ci ZHP (I know it's not an M3!)

Audio: Pioneer AVIC Z3, 1200 Watt Mu Dimension Amp, Audio Pipe Crossovers
Lighting: CCFL Angel Eyes, Custom 'devil eyes', custom LED ambiance lighting, LED license plate lights, invisibulb turning signals
Performance: Front AC Schnitzer Strut Bar, Rear Ebay Strut Bar
Appearance: 20% Tint, Clear Bumper Reflectors, AC Schnitzer Aluminum pedals
Other: Viper 2-way Alarm/Remote Start
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Old 02-16-2010, 06:14 PM   #15
diablo666l
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 81
My Ride: 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP
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Updates:

1. I didn't upgrade to the Z1100bt, there were too many features I like that I would lose

2. I re-read my credentials post in the thread starter. I sound like a total a-hole, haha. Didn't mean to brag, just wanted you all to know my background...not much car audio history.

3. I also ran a secondary AV-to-IPOD cable to the rear ashtray for my iphone, now I can choose Radio, on board library, CD, IPOD, or IPHONE.
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2005 330ci ZHP (I know it's not an M3!)

Audio: Pioneer AVIC Z3, 1200 Watt Mu Dimension Amp, Audio Pipe Crossovers
Lighting: CCFL Angel Eyes, Custom 'devil eyes', custom LED ambiance lighting, LED license plate lights, invisibulb turning signals
Performance: Front AC Schnitzer Strut Bar, Rear Ebay Strut Bar
Appearance: 20% Tint, Clear Bumper Reflectors, AC Schnitzer Aluminum pedals
Other: Viper 2-way Alarm/Remote Start
diablo666l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 02:17 PM   #16
rizzo2008
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 378
My Ride: 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP
What did you do with the old nav system... is it sold already?
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:12 AM   #17
diablo666l
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 81
My Ride: 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rizzo2008 View Post
What did you do with the old nav system... is it sold already?
Sold to sna77!
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2005 330ci ZHP (I know it's not an M3!)

Audio: Pioneer AVIC Z3, 1200 Watt Mu Dimension Amp, Audio Pipe Crossovers
Lighting: CCFL Angel Eyes, Custom 'devil eyes', custom LED ambiance lighting, LED license plate lights, invisibulb turning signals
Performance: Front AC Schnitzer Strut Bar, Rear Ebay Strut Bar
Appearance: 20% Tint, Clear Bumper Reflectors, AC Schnitzer Aluminum pedals
Other: Viper 2-way Alarm/Remote Start
diablo666l is offline   Reply With Quote
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