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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-04-2009, 01:10 PM   #41
plaroud
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Does anyone know the torque specs for the middle carrier bolt and the 3 18mm bolts that hold the rear trailing arm in place?

Also, what would happen if you use regular silver anticeize and also what would happen when you use oem rtab's and you pre-load?

Thanks
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Last edited by plaroud; 09-04-2009 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:29 PM   #42
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Bump, anyone?
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:54 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by plaroud View Post
Bump, anyone?
Try using search...


http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=693108
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:26 AM   #44
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Just want to make a point about 'preloading'.

People have it backwards. If you tighten things up before lowering the car then that is preloading, not the other way around.

You are 'preloading' the bushing before actual load is placed on it, which is a common mistake when installing OEM CAB. If you tighten the bracket to the underside of the car before actually placing 'load' on them this will lead to premature failure as the bushing will be under constant stress once the weight of the car is placed on them. Therefore you do not want to preload OEM bushings.

The poly bushings don't care as pointed out because they cannot be 'preloaded'.
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:53 PM   #45
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Uhhh, I did, that is how I came to this thread. I guess I missed the thread you made. But thanks anyway.
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Old 10-02-2009, 01:07 PM   #46
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great this whole preload crap is confusing me now...i want to upgrade to oem M3 RTAB on my 330CI.....so do you guys mean that the 3 bracket bolts should be tighten with the car on the ground and not supported by jacks?...i cant see how the thru bolt can be tighten once the car is on the ground...someone clear this up for me.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:14 AM   #47
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The pre-loading uses a special BMW tool, but if you use powerflex or RE bushings, there's no pre-loading. That only applies to OEM bushings.

Edit:
Here's the tool:
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:00 PM   #48
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crap...looks like i have no choice but to get powerflex bushing....i would rather go OEM since i heard some bad reviews on the powerflex bushings


Quote:
Originally Posted by NikolaiDelov View Post
The pre-loading uses a special BMW tool, but if you use powerflex or RE bushings, there's no pre-loading. That only applies to OEM bushings.

Edit:
Here's the tool:
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:55 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Arsevader View Post
Just want to make a point about 'preloading'.

People have it backwards. If you tighten things up before lowering the car then that is preloading, not the other way around.

You are 'preloading' the bushing before actual load is placed on it, which is a common mistake when installing OEM CAB. If you tighten the bracket to the underside of the car before actually placing 'load' on them this will lead to premature failure as the bushing will be under constant stress once the weight of the car is placed on them. Therefore you do not want to preload OEM bushings.

The poly bushings don't care as pointed out because they cannot be 'preloaded'.
You seem to be a bit confused yourself. The 3 bracket to body bolts have nothing to do with preloading the bushing. The bushing through-bolt is the only bolt of significance in this regard but unfortunately, due to the fact that it is recessed in a pocket and covered by the bracket, it can't be tightened after the car has been lowered onto the suspension.

In order to keep from pre-loading the bushing, the through-bolt must be tightened while the bracket is oriented at a specific angle relative to the trailing arm (the same angle that the bracket makes relative to the TA when the car is resting on the suspenion). Then, when you bolt the bracket back up to the body, you will notice that in order to get the bracket to sit flush against the body you must apply enough force to twist the bushing. The bushing is now pre-loaded while the suspension is at full droop with the wheels dangling in the air. If you installed the bracket at the correct angle though, the load on the bushing will be relieved when you lower the car back to the ground and the bracket to TA angle is returned to its static resting value.
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:00 PM   #50
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crap...looks like i have no choice but to get powerflex bushing....i would rather go OEM since i heard some bad reviews on the powerflex bushings
You can make your own tool, the Bentley manual gives the specs that need to be met. It's really not that difficult to get the correct bracket angle when torquing the bushing through-bolt.
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:15 PM   #51
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I just did my suspension last week and bought the RTAB tool for the bushings. Well worth the money! Took hardly any time at all to pull the bushings. I have mine and will sell it to you if you want. I paid $100, if you want it, send me a PM.

I know this isn't the place to sell stuff, but I thought it was appropriate because if you're reading this, you're probably about to do it.
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom3 View Post
crap...looks like i have no choice but to get powerflex bushing....i would rather go OEM since i heard some bad reviews on the powerflex bushings
I got Rogue Engineering (the softer type, not the race) and have been more than satisfied with them, no special tools needed and were very easy to install.
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:56 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
You seem to be a bit confused yourself. The 3 bracket to body bolts have nothing to do with preloading the bushing. The bushing through-bolt is the only bolt of significance in this regard but unfortunately, due to the fact that it is recessed in a pocket and covered by the bracket, it can't be tightened after the car has been lowered onto the suspension.

In order to keep from pre-loading the bushing, the through-bolt must be tightened while the bracket is oriented at a specific angle relative to the trailing arm (the same angle that the bracket makes relative to the TA when the car is resting on the suspenion). Then, when you bolt the bracket back up to the body, you will notice that in order to get the bracket to sit flush against the body you must apply enough force to twist the bushing. The bushing is now pre-loaded while the suspension is at full droop with the wheels dangling in the air. If you installed the bracket at the correct angle though, the load on the bushing will be relieved when you lower the car back to the ground and the bracket to TA angle is returned to its static resting value.
TxZHP04 is correct. The bentley manual confirms it. I have attached what the bentley manual (3-series 99-05) says about preloading the trailing arm.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rtabpreload.pdf (74.0 KB, 811 views)

Last edited by gfeiner; 10-15-2009 at 09:58 PM. Reason: spelling correction
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:11 PM   #54
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And here is the BMW TIS document that talks about how the trailing arm bushing housing needs to be preloaded with the special tool
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rtabpreload-TIS.pdf (359.6 KB, 789 views)
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:49 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxZHP04 View Post
You seem to be a bit confused yourself. The 3 bracket to body bolts have nothing to do with preloading the bushing. The bushing through-bolt is the only bolt of significance in this regard but unfortunately, due to the fact that it is recessed in a pocket and covered by the bracket, it can't be tightened after the car has been lowered onto the suspension.
I'm not confused. I wasn't talking about the specific procedure for RTABs. I was responding to the comment that you should preload all bushings for BMWs.

The RTAB is the only bushing that I know of that you need to preload.
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:17 AM   #56
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I just got some Meyle HD rtabs and Vorshlag limiters...

Anyone know if I should be concerned with the preload? The rtab sure resembles an oem closely. I have the newer style with the split casing and it doesn't flange out on one side..

Any input appreciated, Ken
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Old 10-16-2009, 03:27 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Arsevader View Post
I'm not confused. I wasn't talking about the specific procedure for RTABs. I was responding to the comment that you should preload all bushings for BMWs.

The RTAB is the only bushing that I know of that you need to preload.

My 5 series requires pre-loading on one of the front control arm bushings as well. PITA as far as I am concerned.

A simple flat bar of steel will do the trick as pointed out below in the Bentley manual:

Quote:
Originally Posted by gfeiner View Post
TxZHP04 is correct. The bentley manual confirms it. I have attached what the bentley manual (3-series 99-05) says about preloading the trailing arm.
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Old 10-16-2009, 03:45 PM   #58
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Anyone know if I should be concerned with the preload?
Yes. Follow the instructions in the TIS attached in post 54 above. For the proper pre-load, see the section regarding installation without the special tool.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:59 AM   #59
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Thanks this DIY helped me a lot....Bimmerworld.com has the same tool to rent
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:05 PM   #60
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Glad it helped!
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