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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-02-2009, 09:12 PM   #21
Lbert
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I am not sure if this helps but it is worth trying.

See if you are able to remove the cv axle out before working on the wheel hub. If you are not able to remove the axle out, raise or suspend the cv axle so that the axle is straight end to end. The weight of the axle is causing the stem to angle the wheel hub against the wheel bearing making the removal difficult.
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:17 PM   #22
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your stuff is seized in there due to rust and stuff. Use a blow torch to heat up the hub. the heat will loosen the hub.
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:19 PM   #23
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try hammering the stem instead of pulling the hub.
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:01 AM   #24
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Just unbolt the lower arm and take the whole assembly down to a shop to put on the press. Something will give one way or another. Your looking at a new hub I'm sure by the time the two are seperated.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:21 PM   #25
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any luck?
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:35 PM   #26
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Not yet. Leaving the lab now, and going to give it one last shot before I take the lower arm to the machine shop and have it pressed out. I've busted about 3 gear pullers, and the 5-ton hydraulic seems to be a good paper weight. I'll post some more pictures later on. Thanks for advice thus far!!! I believe this about the only project that has really given me so much grief (including both my car and boat!!!)
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:37 PM   #27
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Damn Florida salt air. At this point, its time to throw in the towel. Take everything off and take it to a shop with a 50 ton press. Make sure they support the trailing arm properly so they do not bend it.
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:57 PM   #28
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Before giving up and taking the whole arm off to take it to the machine shop, I gave it one last try. I used the slide hammer flange with a big grade 8 bolt after soaking the assembly in ATF:Acetone (1:1). Started pounding on it, and it finally came off. Finished cleaning up and replacing the rear passenger wheel bearing. The driver side was probably as stubborn as the passenger side, but having the right tools and technology, both rear bearings are replaced!!!!
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:05 PM   #29
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Before giving up and taking the whole arm off to take it to the machine shop, I gave it one last try. I used the slide hammer flange with a big grade 8 bolt after soaking the assembly in ATF:Acetone (1:1). Started pounding on it, and it finally came off. Finished cleaning up and replacing the rear passenger wheel bearing. The driver side was probably as stubborn as the passenger side, but having the right tools and technology, both rear bearings are replaced!!!!
Wow man I feel for you! That ***** gave you hell.
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:47 PM   #30
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Congrats. You did not let that little b**ch win. You will always remember this tough one and will make some even complex diy jobs seem like cake.
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:01 PM   #31
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Congrats!!! Now go have a beer or like 5.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:03 PM   #32
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Changing the Vanos seals was a walk in the park compared to this. So was changing the cooling system. I'm starting to put as much work in this car as I do my boat (and my boat is a 1989!!!) At least she's running nicely, and is still putting smiles on my face every time I take it out.

I'm curious about how effective the ATF:Acetone really is. Anyone else ever used or heard of this concoction?

I already had those 5 beers. Time for the Keg!
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:19 PM   #33
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Changing the Vanos seals was a walk in the park compared to this. So was changing the cooling system. I'm starting to put as much work in this car as I do my boat (and my boat is a 1989!!!) At least she's running nicely, and is still putting smiles on my face every time I take it out.

I'm curious about how effective the ATF:Acetone really is. Anyone else ever used or heard of this concoction?

I already had those 5 beers. Time for the Keg!
ATF is a detergent and lubicant. that is why people used to pour them through carburators to clean it out with. that or kerosene. they both are detergents.
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aabond View Post
Before giving up and taking the whole arm off to take it to the machine shop, I gave it one last try. I used the slide hammer flange with a big grade 8 bolt after soaking the assembly in ATF:Acetone (1:1). Started pounding on it, and it finally came off. Finished cleaning up and replacing the rear passenger wheel bearing. The driver side was probably as stubborn as the passenger side, but having the right tools and technology, both rear bearings are replaced!!!!
So what exactly are you saying you did? I have been railing on my axel for hours and still it hasn't budged. Used a 5 ton gear pulled and no luck (snapped my rotor in half). No luck with slide hammer.
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Old 10-11-2009, 12:17 AM   #35
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Ended up taking it to a local garage who heated it up and used an air hammer. Unfortunately the axle threads mushroomed out in the process. Got everything sorta back together and the hub wobbles on the bearing? wtf? I think the axle isn't into the hub all the way, because i can push the hub/axle in/out of the trailing arm. The axle nut doesn't go on all the way either because the axle threads are too mushroomed. When home depot opens tomorrow I'm going to try and get a couple big washers to hopefully offset the amount that the axle nut doesn't go on. I feel like even if I get the axle nut situation OK, I won't be able to torque it enough to pull the axle and hub together so they stop wobbling.

I am thinking about just giving up and trying to find an axle/trailing arm/hub assembly being parted out on the boards.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:33 AM   #36
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ATF is a detergent and lubicant. that is why people used to pour them through carburators to clean it out with. that or kerosene. they both are detergents.
Neither are detergents, both are solvents, ATF might contain detergents but that is about it....
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:22 PM   #37
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Holy BUMP! please help! has anyone found any new cure for the stuck half shaft? Been pounding like crazy with no avail! help!
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:13 PM   #38
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If you're still in need, did you try ziptieing a plastic bag around the 3" protrusion in the middle of the hub and filling it with the ATF:acetone (1:1). To push it out, you need one of those three holed flange that looks like an arched foot (it's usually used with a slide hammer). You bolt it down to the hub, but not completely. You want to leave room for travel with the following step. Now found a long bolt that has the same threads as the flange from autozone. I had to go to a specialty bolt store call Broward Bolt. With this bolt, you thread it onto the flange and tighten it don't tight (air impact makes it easier). Then take a 10lbs sledge hammer and whack the bolt. Then tighten the bolt some more. Continue with this process until the bearing comes out.

If you need more pictures, I might be able to help you with it. Unfortunately, my driver side bearing seems to be shot already.


I wondering if it was my mistake when reinstalling it, or if it was a defective bearing to start. What do you guys recommend for replacement bearings?
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:29 PM   #39
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Do you have photos of the above procedure? My rear driver side is stuck and need help
Also what is this ATF:acetone you speak of?
Finally How you took out the bearing?

Last edited by AMCINK; 11-29-2010 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 08-14-2011, 01:43 PM   #40
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Bump for a old thread but thought I would share my experience as a "professional" at a full service shop.

E46 M3, bad wheel bearings and I could not get the half shafts to release from the hubs.

Soaked them with PB, heated to 550 degrees,air hammer, broke 2 gear/hub pullers that normally do the job,8lb hammer for 30 mins, used a 20ton press and proceeded to break 1 of the arms. No luck those bastards were not giving up.

2nd arm, heated to 550 and cooled multiple times, soaked over night and heated again, 20 ton press up to the point of the frame of the press distorting.

No luck.

Decided to try the slide hammer flange attachment with a hardened bolt tightened to the end of the shaft. Hammered with a 30lb sledge hammer until the bolt was extremely distorted. Removed and gave up, planned on ordering new arms from the Dealer in the am. Decided to use a 6 inch steel hammering rod and hit a few good times with a 8lb hammer for stress relief. Much to my amazement, the shaft slowly came out



WTF!!! I was surprised the shaft threads were not damaged with the amount of beating they took, but new shafts are going in anyway.

Guess I am not sharing any new info or techniques but to not give up.

Edit:

Just tried the flange/hammer method on the RTA that I broke in the press, took 4 (FOUR) hits with the big sledge and it popped out. 20ton press could not budge it but the method mentioned by aabond worked. That will be the method of choice if the air hammer method doesnt work in the future.

Last edited by 95m3ltw; 08-14-2011 at 04:09 PM.
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