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Old 08-25-2009, 08:17 PM   #1
radarcontact
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Location: Crestview, Florida
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Exclamation Hk system information & specs!

ALL - I am reposting this info as I have seen a lot of questions pertaining to the HK system. Here is the info I compiled earlier this year.

(Earlier post):
First let me say that I did not write or research any of this info. I have been scouring this and other forums collecting bits and pieces. Unfortunately, I can NOT give credit where credit is due, and I'm sorry that I am plagiarizing people's work. If you want to take credit, reply and do so...and THANKS!

That being said, I also cannot guaranty its accuracy...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

As for your subwoofer, the OEM HK convertible 8" sub receives around 20W. DO NOT try to run an aftermarket subwoofer on the OEM amplifier output. You won't be happy. If you're set on trying to fit an aftermarket sub where the OEM 8" driver goes (not sure how, but maybe it's possible), do yourself a favor and get an amplifier for it.

Also, be sure to get an IB (infinite baffle aka "free air") capable subwoofer.
Finally, for the record regarding impedances and power outputs since everyone wants to know:

Harman Kardon E46:
Front / Rear midbass: 3 Ohm
Front Midrange: 3 Ohm
Front Tweeter: 8 Ohm
Rear Midrange (Coupe / Sedan only): 3 Ohm
Rear Tweeter (Convertible only): 8 Ohm

Standard E46:
Front / Rear Midbass: 2 Ohm
Front Midrange: 8 Ohm
Front Tweeter: 8 Ohm
Rear Midrange (Coupe / Sedan only): 8 Ohm
Rear Tweeter (Convertible only): 8 Ohm

As for power output of the HK amp, you've got enough power to drive nearly any tweeter or midrange effectively provided they aren't extremely inefficient. Your big concern is power output to the midbass drivers. Real output is around 15-20W RMS, but ONLY at the correct impedance. So you need a driver that is:

- VERY efficient
- Impedance matched
- Provides an excellent front/rear seal to the door panel (i.e. sized / shaped correctly)

+++++++++++++++++++

Subwoofer, I don't have a stock mounting depth.

Tweeter - ~5/8in
Midrange - ~1 3/8in
Midbass - ~ 2 5/8in

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

The notation I used below is:
Pin # xx / Signal
(main wire color) / (wire stripe color)
no connection literally means that there is not a wire in the factory harness at that pin.
Signal name followed by an * are signals that I believe to be correct, the color code is verified with the harness etc, but I did not personally use these signals in the upgrade so I can not claim to have proven the connections out personally. In particular I did not verify the +/- polarity of the factory mid range speakers. The non-* signals lines I am using to run the upgraded system so I am sure they are correct (at least for my car).

The harness connector pin numbers are embossed on the plastic. There are two “halves” to the connector, looking at the female harness connector its pin lay out looks like this:

Grey ˝ of connector
Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow
Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection
Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection
Pin # 10 / Switched +12v remote turn on White Pin #18 / no connection
Pin # 9 / Head unit output Front Right + Blue / red Pin #17 / Head unit output Front Right - Brown / orange
Pin # 8 / Head unit output Rear Right + Blue / black Pin #16 / Head unit output Rear Right - Brown / orange
Pin # 7 / no connection Pin #15 / no connection
Pin # 6 / no connection Pin #14 / no connection
Pin # 5 / +12v factory amp +12v supply *Red / green
Pin # 4 / Woofer Front Left +Blue / white
Pin # 3 / Woofer Front Left -Blue / brown
Pin # 2 / Woofer Rear Left +Yellow
Pin # 1 / Woofer Rear Left -Brown

Black ˝ of connector
Pin # 34 / Tweeter Front Left - Yellow / brown Pin # 42 / Mid Front Right door + *Green
Pin # 33 / Tweeter Front Left + Yellow / red Pin #41 / Mid Front Right door - *Blue / green
Pin # 32 / Tweeter Rear left door - * Yellow / brown Pin #40 / Mid Front left door + *White
Pin # 31 / Tweeter Rear Left door + * Yellow / black Pin #39 / Mid Front left door - *Blue / white
Pin # 30 / Head output Front left - Brown / orange Pin #38 / Head output Front Left + Yellow / red
Pin # 29 / Head output Rear Left - Brown / orange Pin #37 / Head output Rear Left + Yellow / black
Pin # 28 / no connection Pin #36 / no connection
Pin # 27 / no connection Pin #35 / no connection
Pin # 26 / DC ground factory ampBrown
Pin # 25 / Woofer Rear Right +Blue
Pin # 24 / Woofer Rear Right -Brown
Pin # 23 / Woofer Front Right +Blue / Red
Pin # 22 / Woofer Front Right -Blue / Brown

Pins 1-5 and 22-26 are heavier connections that then other pins, these are the ones that feed the woofers and provide power to the factory amp. I did not use the power connections for the factory amp for the ADS amp – the ADS can draw 30A and the factory connector had wire much to small for that type of current draw. Instead I powered the ADS amp directly (with safety fuses etc) from the battery (easy since BMW puts the battery in the trunk).

+++++++++++++

Okay-
Hopefully this will take the guess work out of swapping out speakers and upgrading. In my 2002 E46 M3 with HK sound I have the following speakers...

In the doors, three speakers each door, 6 total for the front stage as follows:
2x Tweeters
37mm/1.5inches overall diameter.
The dome is about .5-.75 inches.

2x Midranges (Top of door next to tweeter) 60mm/2.3inches overall diameter.
37mm/1.5inches overall depth/height.
53mm/2.0 magnet diameter

2x Midbass(Bottom of door)
160mm/6.29inches diameter metal speaker basket overall. Cone is 120mm/4.75inches.
Overall depth/height of speaker 65mm/2.5inches
Overall magnet diameter is 71mm/2.8inches
The overall diameter from bolt hole to bolt hole on center is 190mm/7.4inches on the PLASTIC mounting flanges of the adaptor the speaker is mounted in.
Also there is spacer/ring between the speaker and the door panel that offsets this driver from the door panel by 10mm and has roughly the same overal diameter as the driver. There is some additional space better this ring and the grill, about 20mm to be had with some careful triming.
Speaker Midbass is marked 21watt, 3ohm btw.

In the rear:
2x Tweeters (I didn't pull the panel and measure)

2x Midbass same exact demensions as above Midbass. Identical speaker. Outside edges of the reardeck

2x 6x9 woofers center of rear deck.

This makes for a total of 12 speakers. However, the tweeter and the mid in the upper-front door panel are both powered by one pair(positive and negative) wires. There is small resistor on the tweeter which I assume is the crossover. Even though the front looks like a 3-way system, and technically it is, it is not tri-wired, it is wired like a two-way from the amp.
These specs are for a E46 Coupe with HK, 4 door sedans are different because the front doors are shorter.
Note: These are the stock demension...this does not mean that this is the max speaker size you can fit. There is clearly some room for a deeper and larger 6.5midbass in the front lower doors with some trimming of the plastic. There is also probably another 20mm of additional depth available. Which would mean you can probably make a speaker with a overal depth of 65mm+20mm for 85mm/3.35in work there depending on how you mounted it.
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:41 PM   #2
BmwAudio32
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My Ride: 2004 Imola 330i ZHP
Good information for some people. Allthough in the end, all this information can be summed up as follows:

The HK system sucks. Replace all of it for good sound.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:05 PM   #3
fractal
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My Ride: 2006 330Ci ZHP 6spd
This information is great but what I would really like to know is what the frequency range of the signal going through the stock HK system is for subwoofer installation purposes.

It sounds like HK subs can only hit down around ~50-80Hz so it might be that the signal going through the system does not include frequencies below these numbers, meaning an aftermarket amp / sub installation feeding off the factory system will not be getting any signal below the stock system's frequency range.
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Old 09-16-2009, 01:36 PM   #4
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More likely the bandwidth is limited by area of the cones of the subs. They are pretty small compared to aftermarket subs that some of the fanatics run around here, so you can't expect them to go down that low.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:41 AM   #5
jtmeyer
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Does anyone know what the low-pass frequency is for the stock HK subs in the trunk?
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Old 09-18-2009, 04:44 AM   #6
radarcontact
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I don't know. This is why we jump in front of the HK sub amp to get our signal for the aftermarket amp.
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:37 AM   #7
jtmeyer
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I'm actually putting an after market radio in, so the sub amp will be driven from the deck's sub preout. Just from listening, it seems to me, to be around 100Hz, but I would like to confirm this.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:55 PM   #8
toplessandhappy
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any Ideas on the rear speaker size for a convertible?
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:03 PM   #9
radarcontact
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You mean by the rear seats? 5-1/4, I believe...I can tell you for sure in a couple weeks (full upgrade). I'm gonna get some CDT 6.5 coax's in there somehow!
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toplessandhappy View Post
any ideas on the rear speaker size for a convertible?
4" on the HK system
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:29 PM   #11
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does anyone know the wattages in RMS of the speakers, subs and amp of the HK system?? (2005 325ci)
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:33 PM   #12
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bump
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Old 12-07-2010, 10:26 PM   #13
ultrajum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radarcontact View Post
ALL - I am reposting this info as I have seen a lot of questions pertaining to the HK system. Here is the info I compiled earlier this year.

(Earlier post):
First let me say that I did not write or research any of this info. I have been scouring this and other forums collecting bits and pieces. Unfortunately, I can NOT give credit where credit is due, and I'm sorry that I am plagiarizing people's work. If you want to take credit, reply and do so...and THANKS!

That being said, I also cannot guaranty its accuracy...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

As for your subwoofer, the OEM HK convertible 8" sub receives around 20W. DO NOT try to run an aftermarket subwoofer on the OEM amplifier output. You won't be happy. If you're set on trying to fit an aftermarket sub where the OEM 8" driver goes (not sure how, but maybe it's possible), do yourself a favor and get an amplifier for it.

Also, be sure to get an IB (infinite baffle aka "free air") capable subwoofer.
Finally, for the record regarding impedances and power outputs since everyone wants to know:

Harman Kardon E46:
Front / Rear midbass: 3 Ohm
Front Midrange: 3 Ohm
Front Tweeter: 8 Ohm
Rear Midrange (Coupe / Sedan only): 3 Ohm
Rear Tweeter (Convertible only): 8 Ohm

Standard E46:
Front / Rear Midbass: 2 Ohm
Front Midrange: 8 Ohm
Front Tweeter: 8 Ohm
Rear Midrange (Coupe / Sedan only): 8 Ohm
Rear Tweeter (Convertible only): 8 Ohm

As for power output of the HK amp, you've got enough power to drive nearly any tweeter or midrange effectively provided they aren't extremely inefficient. Your big concern is power output to the midbass drivers. Real output is around 15-20W RMS, but ONLY at the correct impedance. So you need a driver that is:

- VERY efficient
- Impedance matched
- Provides an excellent front/rear seal to the door panel (i.e. sized / shaped correctly)

+++++++++++++++++++

Subwoofer, I don't have a stock mounting depth.

Tweeter - ~5/8in
Midrange - ~1 3/8in
Midbass - ~ 2 5/8in

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

The notation I used below is:
Pin # xx / Signal
(main wire color) / (wire stripe color)
no connection literally means that there is not a wire in the factory harness at that pin.
Signal name followed by an * are signals that I believe to be correct, the color code is verified with the harness etc, but I did not personally use these signals in the upgrade so I can not claim to have proven the connections out personally. In particular I did not verify the +/- polarity of the factory mid range speakers. The non-* signals lines I am using to run the upgraded system so I am sure they are correct (at least for my car).

The harness connector pin numbers are embossed on the plastic. There are two “halves” to the connector, looking at the female harness connector its pin lay out looks like this:

Grey ˝ of connector
Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow
Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection
Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection
Pin # 10 / Switched +12v remote turn on White Pin #18 / no connection
Pin # 9 / Head unit output Front Right + Blue / red Pin #17 / Head unit output Front Right - Brown / orange
Pin # 8 / Head unit output Rear Right + Blue / black Pin #16 / Head unit output Rear Right - Brown / orange
Pin # 7 / no connection Pin #15 / no connection
Pin # 6 / no connection Pin #14 / no connection
Pin # 5 / +12v factory amp +12v supply *Red / green
Pin # 4 / Woofer Front Left +Blue / white
Pin # 3 / Woofer Front Left -Blue / brown
Pin # 2 / Woofer Rear Left +Yellow
Pin # 1 / Woofer Rear Left -Brown

Black ˝ of connector
Pin # 34 / Tweeter Front Left - Yellow / brown Pin # 42 / Mid Front Right door + *Green
Pin # 33 / Tweeter Front Left + Yellow / red Pin #41 / Mid Front Right door - *Blue / green
Pin # 32 / Tweeter Rear left door - * Yellow / brown Pin #40 / Mid Front left door + *White
Pin # 31 / Tweeter Rear Left door + * Yellow / black Pin #39 / Mid Front left door - *Blue / white
Pin # 30 / Head output Front left - Brown / orange Pin #38 / Head output Front Left + Yellow / red
Pin # 29 / Head output Rear Left - Brown / orange Pin #37 / Head output Rear Left + Yellow / black
Pin # 28 / no connection Pin #36 / no connection
Pin # 27 / no connection Pin #35 / no connection
Pin # 26 / DC ground factory ampBrown
Pin # 25 / Woofer Rear Right +Blue
Pin # 24 / Woofer Rear Right -Brown
Pin # 23 / Woofer Front Right +Blue / Red
Pin # 22 / Woofer Front Right -Blue / Brown

Pins 1-5 and 22-26 are heavier connections that then other pins, these are the ones that feed the woofers and provide power to the factory amp. I did not use the power connections for the factory amp for the ADS amp – the ADS can draw 30A and the factory connector had wire much to small for that type of current draw. Instead I powered the ADS amp directly (with safety fuses etc) from the battery (easy since BMW puts the battery in the trunk).

+++++++++++++

Okay-
Hopefully this will take the guess work out of swapping out speakers and upgrading. In my 2002 E46 M3 with HK sound I have the following speakers...

In the doors, three speakers each door, 6 total for the front stage as follows:
2x Tweeters
37mm/1.5inches overall diameter.
The dome is about .5-.75 inches.

2x Midranges (Top of door next to tweeter) 60mm/2.3inches overall diameter.
37mm/1.5inches overall depth/height.
53mm/2.0 magnet diameter

2x Midbass(Bottom of door)
160mm/6.29inches diameter metal speaker basket overall. Cone is 120mm/4.75inches.
Overall depth/height of speaker 65mm/2.5inches
Overall magnet diameter is 71mm/2.8inches
The overall diameter from bolt hole to bolt hole on center is 190mm/7.4inches on the PLASTIC mounting flanges of the adaptor the speaker is mounted in.
Also there is spacer/ring between the speaker and the door panel that offsets this driver from the door panel by 10mm and has roughly the same overal diameter as the driver. There is some additional space better this ring and the grill, about 20mm to be had with some careful triming.
Speaker Midbass is marked 21watt, 3ohm btw.

In the rear:
2x Tweeters (I didn't pull the panel and measure)

2x Midbass same exact demensions as above Midbass. Identical speaker. Outside edges of the reardeck

2x 6x9 woofers center of rear deck.

This makes for a total of 12 speakers. However, the tweeter and the mid in the upper-front door panel are both powered by one pair(positive and negative) wires. There is small resistor on the tweeter which I assume is the crossover. Even though the front looks like a 3-way system, and technically it is, it is not tri-wired, it is wired like a two-way from the amp.
These specs are for a E46 Coupe with HK, 4 door sedans are different because the front doors are shorter.
Note: These are the stock demension...this does not mean that this is the max speaker size you can fit. There is clearly some room for a deeper and larger 6.5midbass in the front lower doors with some trimming of the plastic. There is also probably another 20mm of additional depth available. Which would mean you can probably make a speaker with a overal depth of 65mm+20mm for 85mm/3.35in work there depending on how you mounted it.
Nice info cheers mate...so with this wiring there is no mention of the wires that I assume go from the main hk amp to the 6x9 rear subs. Is their signal and wires the same as the 'mid bass' rears? Ive ripped out the hk amp but just want to maybe save the effort of running new speaker wire if i end up replacing the 6x9's. Cheers
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:03 PM   #14
radarcontact
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrajum View Post
Nice info cheers mate...so with this wiring there is no mention of the wires that I assume go from the main hk amp to the 6x9 rear subs. Is their signal and wires the same as the 'mid bass' rears? Ive ripped out the hk amp but just want to maybe save the effort of running new speaker wire if i end up replacing the 6x9's. Cheers
To be honest with you---

If I had to do it ALL OVER AGAIN (which I will because I'm rarely ever satisfied!), this is what I would do:

Dissasemble the vehicle sufficiently to get access to all speaker backs and amp
1 - Pull the "out to speakers" lead off of the HK amp
2 - Rig a continuity checker (multi-meter) with 6' extention wires
3 - Pull a speaker wire plug off the back of "speaker #1" and mark its color, location, polarity, etc and continuity match that to one of the pins on the plug, or to the wire that goes to that pin.
4 - I would continue this until I had all the wires identified
The amount of time this would take would be less than 30 minutes after the car was dissasembled, and you would KNOW which wires go where. I think it's the ONLY way to really know for sure, for YOUR car.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:38 AM   #15
BMW Rh+
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Hi, I have e46 touring, the rear midbass work on 2ohm and put out 35w. I would like to change rear speakers so what would be the maximum to put there, that i dont have to change the original amp.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:23 PM   #16
radarcontact
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Rh+ View Post
Hi, I have e46 touring, the rear midbass work on 2ohm and put out 35w. I would like to change rear speakers so what would be the maximum to put there, that i dont have to change the original amp.
Well, I think you meant is that the OEM speakers are 2ohm and are stamped that they are rated for "35W", correct? You have taken one out and looked at it I assume?
1) You just have to find one that fits, really. Look for one that will match up to your mounting holes, is not to deep, or sticks out too far.
2) Almost any aftermarket speaker of any quality will handle as much power as the OEM jobbies, so that's really not an issue.
3) As far as the ohms, you can use a 4ohm speaker if you want to, no problem. I would ask your dealer to show you the ones that are the most efficient, or sensitive. That will ensure that they play loud enough for you, and will make up for the impedence difference (ohms difference). 2ohm replacement may be hard to find.
4) Once you do replace it, let it break in by limiting the volume to a moderate level over a week or so before you try to see how loud it will play; just fade it mostly to the front. The suspension system will stretch out nicely and sound much better after that week has passed (~20 hours usually).

Last edited by radarcontact; 04-04-2011 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:52 PM   #17
BMW Rh+
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Yes, I meant the OEM speakers
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:58 PM   #18
BMW Rh+
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What speaker fits best to the back of this car? Rms/max output that I dont need to change OEM HK amp pls?
Car is E46 Touring.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:38 AM   #19
radarcontact
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rear driver size update

Quote:
Originally Posted by radarcontact View Post
You mean by the rear seats? 5-1/4, I believe...I can tell you for sure in a couple weeks (full upgrade). I'm gonna get some CDT 6.5 coax's in there somehow!
4" on my vert. Got some CDT 5.25" coax's in there...wow, that was a job! Wouldn't suggest it! I would use the 5.25" units but I would look for a shallower unit. The CDTs were gargantuan compared to the stock HK drivers!

Last edited by radarcontact; 10-06-2011 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:49 AM   #20
radarcontact
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radarcontact View Post
4" on my vert. Got some cdt 5.25" coax's in there...wow, that was a job! Wouldn't suggest it! I would use the 5.25" units but i would look for a shallower unit. The cdts were gargantuan compared to the stock hk drivers!
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