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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 05-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #21
Itzed
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Does anyone know why it would happen only in the warm weather? What does that have to do with the amount of vacuum?
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:26 PM   #22
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Humidity.
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:02 AM   #23
Bright Red
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Whine!

Same issue here, gonna try the valve first, don't want to do the brake booster. Anyone have any other ideas if this fails?
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:21 PM   #24
flashmeow
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whistle whine
tagged for later. OP thanks for the DIY/info
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:01 PM   #25
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Follow Up

Anyone who had the whistling only when releasing the pedal have any success?
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:02 PM   #26
Itzed
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Originally Posted by molten330ci View Post
Anyone who had the whistling only when releasing the pedal have any success?
I have. I don't hear it at all anymore, because I gave the car to my wife to drive! So I don't hear it at all anymore. She's complained about it a couple times this summer, but soon the cooler weather will be here and it will go away again. Maybe I'll think about it next summer again.
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:03 PM   #27
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errr...

That's not success! That's passing off your issue
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:46 PM   #28
Itzed
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Originally Posted by molten330ci View Post
That's not success! That's passing off your issue
I beg to differ, it's successfully passing off the issue.
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:09 AM   #29
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I replaced the Gasket and Non-return value per the OP's suggestion, but like two other responders I got no improvement with the noise. The problem seems to occur more often when it's warmer, and is worse when the engine is idling or not working at all hard. When the engine is working harder there is never a whistle.
Any more thoughts are of course much appreciated.
BB (2003 E46)
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:28 PM   #30
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Drove my mechanic nuts with this noise, he torn half the car apart, and then concluded it had to be the brake booster. He said it would cost $600, anyone have input on this price / resolution?
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:02 PM   #31
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hey guys i just bought an e46 and after a few days of driving it, i have the same issue that some of you have been experiencing, namely a high pitch but soft whistling that happens when you're not touching the brakes, and instantly stops once you put the slightest pressure back on it. this whistling can even happen for a while when the car is off. i searched the internet for a bit and actually found the same exact problem happening in a mercedes forum. the solution was fixing/adjusting a rubber boot that is between the master cylinder and the brake pedal itself, presumably. here is the link. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...tops-when.html I'll try this one day, when it bothers me enough lol.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:38 AM   #32
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Yeah I think the general consensus seems to be it's a component inline with the braking system or the booster itself.

I had my 3 at the mechanic for a couple days, he tore it apart trying to find the noise only coming to the conclusion that it must be the brake booster which I told him it could be. Being that the price/labor is a bit high I'd much rather find that it's something less expensive.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:21 PM   #33
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I tried the quick fix of changing the NRV and gasket, no luck, so on to the more expensive and time consuming fix. I found the replacement brake booster from Pelican Parts for $183, should have it in in a few days, I post the results.
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:24 PM   #34
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Good luck!

Make sure you take some photos ... maybe put in a DIY write-up
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:09 AM   #35
Pat.D
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I replaced the brake booster after trying the quick fix which didn't work. It was a long day replacing that sucker! I found a new booster at Pelican Parts, $183. (the dealer wanted over $400) the dealer manual says the job should take 4.5 hours. It took me longer. Remove the cover in the inside of the car under the steering wheel, a few screws and clips, just moved it to the side, didn't disconnect the light and computer connection, remove the brake peddle clip the two bolts holding the booster and the one holding the bracket above. You need to do this to get the booster shaft off the peddle as there is a retainer cage over it.
Next in the hood, remove the cover in the corner on the ecletrical plug box, Allen wrench screws. Remove the rubber and plastic pieces around the master cylinder and booster, including the tray that has the hepa filter. Now remove the master cylinder assembly, place some rags under the brake lines as you remove them, 2 on the master cylinder. Remove the two bolts holding the master cylinder and remove it.
Now remove the one bolt holding the ABS unit in , lift it a bit as it has a pin as well and move it forward. I was able to remove the booster at this stage, but it was very difficult, I suggest removing the lines from the ABS to give you more room.
Now install the new booster and replace everything that you removed, now you have to bleed the brakes, look for a thread pm how to do this of you havent done it before.
You just saved yourself $500 !!
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:26 AM   #36
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Cool! Thanks for the write up.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:39 AM   #37
Itzed
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Great write up. Thanks! You failed to mention that this cured the whistle, but I assume that it did or you would have said so.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:45 AM   #38
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Ha that would be a minor detail if it still whistled!

btw, I had seen that same part for $183 at Pelican Parts too.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:40 AM   #39
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Yes, sorry I didn't mention it on my long post, got tied of writing on my iPhone, it did solve the problem, it's a pleasure to drive around in a quite car!
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:42 AM   #40
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I bet! The squeakiness of mine is making me mental!!
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