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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 07-03-2012, 05:38 AM   #61
Itzed
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I would doubt its the master cylinder since that is hydraulic and has no air at all in it that could produce a whistle of any kind.

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Old 07-08-2012, 06:01 PM   #62
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today this noise began in my '02. i thought it was a warning beep at first. but it fades away, my thoughts is a rubber hose/gasket. between firewall and pedal since i am in AZ and its like the hottest day of the year today. on top of that the rubber hose on my wiper fluid also couldnt handle the heat anymore. i must say this noise is VERY annoying. sounds like some people have tried about 3 different methods and some work some don't. some here say brake booster, some say Sea Foam spray and clamp, some say rubber gasket/hose. nothing definite though? very odd noise
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:33 PM   #63
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Finally got the gasket and time to try it. Didn't work at all. That confirms my fears, it's the brake booster. I'll change it and let you all know.
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:55 PM   #64
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Finally got the gasket and time to try it. Didn't work at all. That confirms my fears, it's the brake booster. I'll change it and let you all know.
I'll be curious to see how that goes for you as well. My whistle is getting LOUD! I couldn't fine any tears or rips in my air intake elbow, so the brake booster is looking more and more like a culprit. Still going to investigate the intake boot first since it's cheaper.
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Old 07-21-2012, 05:22 PM   #65
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It's the brake booster, there is a rupture in the rubber diaphragm inside. $178 at Pelican Parts I just put mine in. That's the best I've found but I haven't checked World PAC.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:06 PM   #66
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I'll be curious to see how that goes for you as well. My whistle is getting LOUD! I couldn't fine any tears or rips in my air intake elbow, so the brake booster is looking more and more like a culprit. Still going to investigate the intake boot first since it's cheaper.

I changed the booster today. It was the diaphram inside the booster. The new one works great. I would suggest you have a bentley manual or tech CD before you start. The only way to get the booster out is to remove the master cylinder AND the ABS unit. It's not too complex but it took me the better part of the day.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:01 PM   #67
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I changed the booster today. It was the diaphram inside the booster. The new one works great. I would suggest you have a bentley manual or tech CD before you start. The only way to get the booster out is to remove the master cylinder AND the ABS unit. It's not too complex but it took me the better part of the day.
Cool, thanks for the info. If you don't mind me askin' what was your mileage when you noticed the problem? If anybody else wants to chime in on this as well, I'm just curious about the timing of when the booster usually starts squealing.

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Old 08-16-2012, 07:15 AM   #68
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Cool, thanks for the info. If you don't mind me askin' what was your mileage when you noticed the problem? If anybody else wants to chime in on this as well, I'm just curious about the timing of when the booster usually starts squealing.

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I started noticing mine about two years ago, at about 85,000 miles. I still haven't changed the booster. It's been the same since I noticed it. Only happens in warm weather and my wife drives the car now, so until it starts drowning out her country music......
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:07 AM   #69
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Cool, thanks for the info. If you don't mind me askin' what was your mileage when you noticed the problem? If anybody else wants to chime in on this as well, I'm just curious about the timing of when the booster usually starts squealing.

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I don't know when this started. I bought the cas to set up for NASA racing. It had the problem when I ought it whith 155k on it.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:40 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by NC BMW fan View Post
I changed the booster today. It was the diaphram inside the booster. The new one works great. I would suggest you have a bentley manual or tech CD before you start. The only way to get the booster out is to remove the master cylinder AND the ABS unit. It's not too complex but it took me the better part of the day.
Hey, did you have to flush the brake fluid also when you did this? I have the brake booster already, but dont want to DIY myself because of the brake fluid getting everywhere..
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:00 PM   #71
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Hey, did you have to flush the brake fluid also when you did this? I have the brake booster already, but dont want to DIY myself because of the brake fluid getting everywhere..
I drained the resovoiur first, then removed the master cylinder, brake lines to the ABS and THEN the booster. Yes, you will have to flush the lines but I had very little fluid to worry about. I suggest using a power bleeder as well. Great product that will save you a lot of time.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:03 AM   #72
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hello guys, thanks for the post. would just like to inquire if replacing the brake booster would require any computer programming afterwards since you removed the abs module?

thanks in advance
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:50 AM   #73
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hello guys, thanks for the post. would just like to inquire if replacing the brake booster would require any computer programming afterwards since you removed the abs module?

thanks in advance
None that I'm aware of. These are all just brake lines. You will have to bleed the system when you are done.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:13 PM   #74
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whistling sound coming from the abs module

hello guys, i brought mine to the shop again today. they told me that the whistling sound is most definitely coming from the abs module and not the brake booster.

i inquired with the supplier (where i got the abs module) and he told me that i hwould have to activate the abs module to eliminate that whistling sound by stepping hard on the brakes. he explained to me that the whistling sound is due to the fact that the abs module is not receiving enough brake fluid when the brakes are not applied.

any comments on this one? have yet to try his suggestion.

thanks guys
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:33 AM   #75
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hello guys, i brought mine to the shop again today. they told me that the whistling sound is most definitely coming from the abs module and not the brake booster.

i inquired with the supplier (where i got the abs module) and he told me that i hwould have to activate the abs module to eliminate that whistling sound by stepping hard on the brakes. he explained to me that the whistling sound is due to the fact that the abs module is not receiving enough brake fluid when the brakes are not applied.

any comments on this one? have yet to try his suggestion.

thanks guys
I heard this as well when I was working on mine. 2 options- first, you could take it to your mechanic and have them hook it up to diagnostics. They can cycle ABS unit that way. second, find light gravel or grassy area where you can SAFELY do a panic stop. This will cycle ABS in the same manner.

Do you have good brake pedal feel? My guess is air in the lines.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:03 AM   #76
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I think you are on to something here.

This seems to be the right direction for my issue. Haven't tried it yet, but I did remove the check valve, blow silicon and compressed air through it, and it seemed to be working. Also got some silicone spray on the check valve gasket. But it must have improved the seal because now it only whines for a moment after letting off the brake, instead of constantly whistling. I think a new valve and gasket are in my very near future. I'd hate to think it was a booster, as the brakes are functioning flawlessly. Thanks for the reply!

I have read elsewhere that there is a gasket on the firewall side that can get torn as well. As I was under the dash pushing on the brake pedal, the noised seemed to be associated with certain spot on the pushrod to the cylinder more than anything else. Which sounds like seal that's just worn or maybe a slightly thinner part of the pushrod from wear allowing a small gap from the seal. Seems like a waste to have to replace all that and bleed the breaks if that seal is the only culprit. Anybody have any luck replacing the inner seal without removing the mastercylinder? Is it even possible?
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:25 PM   #77
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I looked into getting just the gasket. I couldn't find one and, as best I can remember now, I didn't see a way to get to it. I think the gasket is inside the booster.
After being under the dash, I don't think there is enough room there to do a repair while it's on the car. If you have to take it out, might as well replace it.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #78
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So I ran into problems after finally swapping my booster cause of that annoying sounds I've been getting in the cabin when the pedal is depressed.

I have successfully installed the booster and had to remove the abs unit + the brake lines connected to it. I bled the brakes and went in to start te car discovering that my brake pedal goes straight to the floor. I still can drive the car but need to floor the pedal to stop. I believe that since I disconnected my brake lines from the abs unit it introduced a lot of air in the module that is a PITA to get out. Is there any way to bleed the air our? I have the Motove power bleeder and tried the 2 man method twice. Still no cure.

I have heard the dealer has a special machine to "tickle" the unit to remove the air. Or I can find some gravel to activate the dsc to get the air moving. Anyone experienced this and found a solution? How much would the dealer charge?

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:09 AM   #79
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I had the same issue with the pedal. I'm guessing you also have the traction control warning light constantly on when you drive? You still have air in the lines. This is the reason I got a Motiv power bleeder. Try hooking it up, pressurizing it and then LIGHTLY tap on the ABS metering block. I did that AND let it just sit under pressure for 5-10 minutes BEFORE I opened any lines at a caliper. I could see the air bubbles being forced out. Just to let you know, I had to do a complete brake flush, took me 1 1/2 bottles of fluid.

As for your other question, the ABS pump can be cycled in a diagnostic mode and that will get the air out as well. Your mechanic will have to do that, it will just cost more.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:40 AM   #80
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Thanks! I'm going to try that later today and report back! Can't wait to get my car back in shape!
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