Differential Housing Question

Wow.

Sooo, I guess i'm still waiting on some extra money to upgrade the diff and pay for the shop to work on my shiet. being a working student sucks. lol.

/me waits for raj to figure this out so I can get a diff done too.

Originally Posted by crazyxzer0

/me waits for raj to figure this out so I can get a diff done too.

hehe.



After i bumped this thread I had a thought that was later canceled out by some info that i found.

I was thinking that since our diffs are the same as e39s we could just use an e39m lsd, since they use those diffs in 540s. But then from what i've heard (i have yet to confirm it) that 540/m5 subframes are different from 528, 525, and 530s.

My other idea was to maybe find a X chassis that comes with lsd and use that, but from my search I didn't find any Xs that had lsd.

Originally Posted by SL Blak Soldier

hehe.



After i bumped this thread I had a thought that was later canceled out by some info that i found.

I was thinking that since our diffs are the same as e39s we could just use an e39m lsd, since they use those diffs in 540s. But then from what i've heard (i have yet to confirm it) that 540/m5 subframes are different from 528, 525, and 530s.

My other idea was to maybe find a X chassis that comes with lsd and use that, but from my search I didn't find any Xs that had lsd.

Do e34 diff internals swap into the e39? If so maybe that can be a way to do it

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

Do e34 diff internals swap into the e39? If so maybe that can be a way to do it

easy answer = nope. haha. well not in the non 540/m5s.

Anyone know if 328 (e46) diffs will fit into 330s? Or if swapping the 4 bolt flange to a 6 bolt flange makes it so you need a shorter drive shaft? I'm having issues making my awd to rwd, drive train work So far I've been through 3 drive shafts. Trying to hunt down a 6 bolt flange now. I'm getting a little worried as this project is basically done. I just need to get the drive shaft in so the fabricator can make my tranny mounts. I'm having http://www.adrenalinexxx.com/ make my tranny mounts. They might just have to make me a CNC'D adapter to work. I'm really at a loss atm

Originally Posted by xixixi

Anyone know if 328 (e46) diffs will fit into 330s? Or if swapping the 4 bolt flange to a 6 bolt flange makes it so you need a shorter drive shaft? I'm having issues making my awd to rwd, drive train work So far I've been through 3 drive shafts. Trying to hunt down a 6 bolt flange now. I'm getting a little worried as this project is basically done. I just need to get the drive shaft in so the fabricator can make my tranny mounts. I'm having http://www.adrenalinexxx.com/ make my tranny mounts. They might just have to make me a CNC'D adapter to work. I'm really at a loss atm

My 2005 has a 6 torx bolt connection and a CV joint and I think I've heard that it's shorter than earlier ones. When I look in Bentley there's no mention of my driveshaft. In BMW TIS from 2005 it shows another version with a CV joint (uses 6 nuts & bolts at the diff end). So it seems like there are at least three different designs that would bolt to three different kinds of diff flanges.

The one I have is the same as the one in this DIY:
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/diy_diff.htm

my god The part hunting is killing my already stuck pig wallet Looks like it's on to diff number 3

that's the spirit!

So your using an 05 3.07 with a 6 bolt? any idea on how long the 6 bolt is from diff housing to the end of it? Could you get a measurement? I gotta head down to the shop and measure mine again. (need to write this sh!t down) nvm i forget you have to drop the exhaust/heat shield. Been a long day

Originally Posted by xixixi

So your using an 05 3.07 with a 6 bolt? any idea on how long the 6 bolt is from diff housing to the end of it? Could you get a measurement? I gotta head down to the shop and measure mine again. (need to write this sh!t down) nvm i forget you have to drop the exhaust/heat shield. Been a long day

Mine is out at the moment, so here:
installed it would measure something like 55 9/16" (or up to an inch or so less due to the CV joint's ability to contract)

out, accounting for hidden structures on each end, it would be about 1.5" more

Any idea on how to swap out the output flanges? (the ones on the side of the diff?) I tried a hammer, then I tried a bigger hammer? My 3.07 that came in my xi has 2 bolts then a good gap then 2 bolts then a good gap.. etc on the output flanges that connect to the rear half shafts? Does your 330 have that same pattern? This is what i'm trying to do.. I have a 3.46 from a 99 328i. I know i need to swap the input flange from a 2.93. However can i swap the out put flanges with my 3.07 to the 3.46? I'm about to just say fvck it and swap the input flange to my 3.07. If you can't understand this I'm sorry

i forgot how, but in one diff thread the info is there. i think my friend and i wedged it out with two crowbars.

so i need a bigger hammer?

well, no. you have to pull both sides out equally at the same time. you can't just take a hammer to one side and then go to the other. you have to use two crow bars and push it out from each side. there is like a spring clip kinda thing you have to put enough pressure on to jump it to pull out the flange.

Originally Posted by SL Blak Soldier

well, no. you have to pull both sides out equally at the same time. you can't just take a hammer to one side and then go to the other. you have to use two crow bars and push it out from each side. there is like a spring clip kinda thing you have to put enough pressure on to jump it to pull out the flange.

So a chisel/bigger hammer.. if a bigger hammer won't fix it, nothing will:p

can't get my input flange off! got a 30mm socket, tried using channel locks on the input flange. Then taking it off no luck. I already smacked the locking tabs. I can't the damn nut off! Spins.. Should I have taken the input shaft out while the diff was in the car? Already had to walk 3 miles to the parts store as i forgot to get a 30mm socket... losing patience.. EDIT... Just realized I need to take the locking washer out not just bend the tabs back Thanks guys
EDIT # 2 worked for 1 shaft not the other broke my channel locks on the second one guess try a pipe wrench?

Wow. it's been a year since this thread was alive. And since Brady's post in the other thread. I'm reviving it. Let's see if anyone has any new ideas on how to get this to work, and deal with all the issues that have come up. Especially because i keep getting stuck on driveways because of my open diff, and short shocks. -____-

Originally Posted by B6T

There is a problem with this. The splined flanges that bolt to the driveshafts go through the differential casing and engage a mating spline inside the differential itself. If you are shifting the differential to one side, as your differential shop has suggested, you are reducing the depth to which the flanges on that side of the different can engage the splines in the differential. If you don't have enough contact area (i.e. depth), you can strip out the splines on a hard launch (etc.).

In my opinion, this isn't a good idea. I'm with the guy saying that it's a good idea to buy a purpose built limited slip unit.

^this is a great point. Another issue steming from this is that the e36/e30 diffs don't have a locking clip to keep output flanges in place, unlike the e46s do. (just try and pull off an output flange from an e46 diff, and you'll know what i mean).


So right now the issues(some might say they aren't issues) are as follows...

-the adapter plate that my diff shop said they'll use will push the unit over to one side of the case, which is not the correct way of doing it, according to a previous source.
-because of this, the output flange splines MIGHT not have enough bite and possible slip out. Also because there is no locking clip for the output flanges.

...this is all that i can currently think of.

I do know DSC can at times act like an LSD, by slowing down the spinning wheel by applying the brakes to that side, to send power to the other. Maybe if there can be someone to program dsc to compute that super fast, so we can have e-lsd? lol.

I'm glad you revived your thread & gave us this update. I'd say it really sounds like you've explored all avenues, & I for one appreciate it. At this point it looks like anyone that wants a LSD is just gonna have to ante up, that sucks but what can you do. I went with the Quaife LSD & have REALLY enjoyed it, but even that LSD with a new/used diff housing running a 3.15/3.23/3.38/3.46 installed is going to be $1800-$2000.


Thanks again for trying.

If anyone wants to send me some cash, I can get this done, lol...