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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-06-2010, 11:29 AM   #41
km4n
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alright, received and installed! awesome diy.. thanks delmarco once again.. just one thing to add as was mentioned previously.. don't do this in the cold.. one of my plastic things broke but i was lucky that i still get the flush look as the ones on the side were still able to cling on ...

another side note though.. my sunroof is acting up.. it comes half way then goes back.. i am thinking its the cold :S... any ideas?
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:03 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by km4n View Post
alright, received and installed! awesome diy.. thanks delmarco once again.. just one thing to add as was mentioned previously.. don't do this in the cold.. one of my plastic things broke but i was lucky that i still get the flush look as the ones on the side were still able to cling on ...

another side note though.. my sunroof is acting up.. it comes half way then goes back.. i am thinking its the cold :S... any ideas?
see my complete sunroof PICTORIAL DIY-It will tell you exactly what is going on!

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=737026
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:32 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by km4n View Post
alright, received and installed! awesome diy.. thanks delmarco once again.. just one thing to add as was mentioned previously.. don't do this in the cold.. one of my plastic things broke but i was lucky that i still get the flush look as the ones on the side were still able to cling on ...

another side note though.. my sunroof is acting up.. it comes half way then goes back.. i am thinking its the cold :S... any ideas?
I've had that happen a couple times since I've had my car. The last time I think I figured out that it was going back in after the fron of the glass starts to push the 'arm' bracing down. Kinda like the safety mechanism kicks in because it met some resistance. I figured this out because if I would quickly use my hand and manualy push down the arm bracing (on the sides) JUST before the glass got to that point then the glass would finish closing properly. It hasn't done that for a long time. I'm thinking the arm/rail mechanism could use a bit of lubing? I'll check the DIY for some info on that and what kind to use.
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:39 AM   #44
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Thanks for the DIY! Worked perfectly, great pics!!
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:00 AM   #45
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Thanks for putting this together! Got it done in about 30 minutes with no surprises.
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:51 PM   #46
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Thanks for the write-up; the retrofit took less than an hour. Actually, I've found that the homelink unit has a pretty good range; it's about as good, if not better than my old garage door opener.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:28 PM   #47
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thanks for the how-to. I bought one off ebay for 90 shipped, newer rolling code and it came with the grey panel and the sunroof switch and mic vent.

One thing to note in the first post is the comment about the panel that the switches are in and the bulge for the home link unit. My car is prewired for it and my panel did not have the bulge. so I ended up using my panel instead of the one it was sent in and it works just fine and there was enough room that it isn't hitting the sunroof motor and it isn't pushing the panel down. I assume the panel design just changed at some point, but looks like either works.

of course, mine wouldn't program with just holding the remote button. I had to go up to each garage door motor and push the smart button. That wasn't fun in my detached garage with 12' ceilings. lol

Either way, it is done and works great. Thanks for the write-up.

oh yeah, my car has the microphone as well for bluetooth. I can't believe BMW went through all that to wire the car, install the mic and everything, just to have the TCU not work for pre 2005 cars. oh well. Dynavin here I come.
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Old 10-12-2010, 11:39 PM   #48
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So I installed mine yesterday and tried to program it but I can't get it to work. Its the rolling code unit with illuminated numbers. Fits just fine in the panel. I have lift master garage door unit at my house and it doesn't program with the instruction either on the door opener unit or instructions for the BMW homelink. What am I missing?
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:19 PM   #49
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for a good post + PN for reference: 82 11 1 470 125
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:28 PM   #50
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A very easy DIY as I just popped mine in with no problems what so ever during the install other then trying to disconnect the wires from the homelink after I plugged it in to test it out. Now time to program it!
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:15 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajput View Post
So I installed mine yesterday and tried to program it but I can't get it to work. Its the rolling code unit with illuminated numbers. Fits just fine in the panel. I have lift master garage door unit at my house and it doesn't program with the instruction either on the door opener unit or instructions for the BMW homelink. What am I missing?

Check the homelink website to see if your garage is on the list. Also if you bought a used Homelink you need to reset it. (if you press a key does the green led blink or does it stay lit? A new homelink will stay lit or light up and turn of and a pre-programmed green led on will blink when you hold the key down)



I think you need to hold down the 1 and 3 keys for about 20 seconds or longer...to reset it


can't remember at the moment...

EDIT: here you go-

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
DIY for programming the Homelink Garage Door Opener (GDO)...

Surprisingly, I had trouble finding concise instructions in one spot for programming the BMW Homelink Garage Door Opener (GDO) in my 2002 BMW E39 so I re-wrote what I found out here as a GDO DIY.

Programming information can be found in this generic Homelink video.

BATTERY:
'They say" it is best to have a strong battery in the remote before you program your Homelink transmitter in your BMW overhead. The reason 'they say' this is because it's a recording; weak signal in === weak signals out ('they say'). Anyone with proof ... or logic ... please advise.

RESET PROGRAMMING MODE:
You do not need to reset but you might wish to erase all buttons when you obtain the car or sell the car.

To reset all three Homelink buttons at once:
1. Set the ignition with your key to the ACC2 position (no need to start the engine).
2. Simultaneously press and hold the two outside buttons (#1 and #3) of your Homelink control unit
3. Keep holding both outside buttons until the Homelink LED flashes rapidly (this will take about 20 seconds).
That's it; the old settings are now wiped out for all three buttons.
Note: Do not repeat this step unless you wish to wipe out all existing settings!).

RE-PROGRAM PROGRAMMING MODE:
0. You can program the Homelink after a reset or you must put the Homelink into "programming mode".

1. To put the Homelink buttons into programming mode, press the desired button that you would like to reprogram and keep it pressed until the LED starts to flash slowly.

2. Let the LED flash slowly for about 20 seconds.

3. Only then (after the LED flashes slowly for about 20 seconds) should you release the button.

The Homelink system is now in programming mode.

Note: You will have five minutes to carry out the re-programming.


PROGRAMMING FOR STANDARD CODES:
This first procedure assumes a fixed code GDO (not rolling codes - instructions for which will come later).

0. Position your hand-held remote transmitter 1 to 3 inches away from the HomeLink surface (located on your overhead sunroof panel), keeping the HomeLink indicator light in view (the closer the better in most cases).

1. Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold both the desired HomeLink button (e.g., button #1) and the hand held remote's transmitter button.

2. DO NOT release both buttons until the HomeLink indicator light flashes slowly and then rapidly.

3. When the Homelink indicator light flashes rapidly, both buttons may be released.

That's it (if you have a simple GDO); the rapid flashing indicates successful training of Homelink.

Note: Apparently "Canadian Instructions" are slightly different; go figure.

HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE ROLLING CODES: (i.e., encrypted codes)
1. Press and hold the now-trained HomeLink button and observe the indicator light.

a) If the Homelink indicator light is solid and continuous, training is complete and your garage door should activate when the HomeLink button is momentarily pressed and released.

b) If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns to a solid and continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device.

Note: A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier. Please use a ladder or other device. The Homelink people warn "Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps" (duh).

PROGRAMMING FOR ROLLING CODES:
0. Apparently, you have to do the non-rolling code stuff above first; then, if you find you have rolling codes (based on the indicator light action described in 1b avove), then proceed as described below ...

1. At the garage door opener receiver (aka, at the motorhead unit) in the garage, locate the "learn" or "smart" button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door opener's manual or contact Homelink at +1-
800-355-3515.

2. Press and release the "learn" or "smart" button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer but a black button with a red LED is common).

NOTE: Once the button is pressed, you generally have about 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step.

3. Return to the BMW and firmly press and hold the previously trained HomeLink button for three seconds & then release.

4. Do step 3 again (they actually told me to do this when I called for help).

5. Do step 3 yet another time (just to be sure).

6. HomeLink should now activate your garage door with rolling codes.

Note: You can re-program any button at any time. If this procedure fails, you can call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help (which is what I did and where additional steps above were added and a lot of my description was improved).


PLACEMENT:
1. To train, some remotes must be placed directly in front of the transmitter.

2. Others at a distance of up to 30 centimeters

3. In my case, I placed the remote transmitter right next to the BMW Homelink roof panel, actually touching the panel (that's what the Homelink Customer Support guy said to do - and it worked).

Note: Make sure your battery in the remote is good. This may be an old wives' tale but 'they say' it's like a tape recording'; low-volume in, low-volume out.

TESTING:
1. Press the Homelink button you have now programmed.

2. If the LED is constantly lit, you have successfully concluded the programming.

3. You also should see the garage door opening (duh).


Here are some more details on programming and troubleshooting the Homelink system on the BMW:

RANGE PROBLEMS:
Poor range can be caused by interference around or near the vehicle or due to the use of older batteries in the original transmitter during programming.
  • Put a new battery in your hand-held transmitter. Training the HomeLink takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the hand-held transmitter, it does help pick up a better train and increases the range.
  • Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink.
  • Try a second transmitter with new batteries.
  • Straighten the antenna wire that hangs down from the garage door opener motorhead.
FREQUENCY:
HomeLink is an integrated transceiver (a transmitter and receiver) that can be programmed to activate radio frequency (RF) devices such as garage doors, estate/community gates, entry door locks, home/office lighting, or other RF devices.

HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288 and 399 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 322-335 MHz range). Select 2007 and newer vehicles are compatible up to 433 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 400-410 MHz range).

COMPATIBILITY:
Please contact us by email or phone (1-800-355-3515) to verify vehicle compatibility.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
You can either call our customer service number (1-800-355-3515) or contact us by email for complete programming assistance. First try the following troubleshooting tips:
  • Check the frequency of the device's hand-held transmitter (usually found on the back). HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288-399MHz (some 2007 and newer vehicles may be compatible up to 433MHz. Please contact us for vehicle compatibility).
  • Put a brand new, store bought battery in the hand-held transmitter. During the programming process the battery's energy tends to drain (more so with an older battery). A new battery will increase the speed and accuracy in which the hand-held transmitter sends its signal to HomeLink.
  • Retrain HomeLink holding the hand-held transmitter at different lengths and angles from the HomeLink button you are trying to program. Try 4-6 inches away at a different angle.
  • Cycle the hand-held transmitter during programming: Press and hold the HomeLink button while you press and release the hand-held transmitter every 2 seconds until the indicator light changes from a slow blink to a rapid flash.
  • To verify HomeLink has programmed, press and hold the HomeLink button and observe the indicator light:
    • If the indicator light remains solid, it has picked up the signal and should operate the device.
    • If the indicator light blinks rapidly for two seconds and turns solid, HomeLink has successfully picked up the rolling code signal. Please follow the rolling code instructions outlined in the "programming a garage door opener" section to complete the process.
    • If the indicator light remains a slow blink, HomeLink has not picked up the signal from the hand-held remote. Try programming the button again or choose another button to program.
PROGRAMMING FOR A PRE-1982 GARAGE DOOR:
As long as the garage door opener is in the same frequency band (288-433 MHz*), HomeLink can be programmed to this older unit. However, frequencies of some older openers can shift outside of the HomeLink operating band, and become incompatible. The best way to program an older garage door opener is:

1) Put NEW batteries in the original transmitter and
2) Hold the original transmitter between one and three inches away from the HomeLink surface until HomeLink learns the signal (refer to our programming section for complete instructions).

If HomeLink has not picked up the signal within a few seconds, position the original transmitter at different lengths and angles.

If these suggestions do not work, you may have a problem with the garage door opener itself. If you chose to contact a garage door opener service technician, be aware that, under FCC regulations, they or anyone else are unable to service the device if it was manufactured before 1982. Many garage door openers manufactured before 1982 do not have the safety stop-and-reverse feature which is now required by law. Some states (NY, IN, CA, MN) require service technicians to totally disable the opener if they find it to be malfunctioning.

WHAT IF I DON'T HAVE A HAND-HELD REMOTE GDO?
You have to have a hand-held transmitter to program HomeLink.

KEELOQ-based Rolling Code Garage Door Openers:
The HomeLink unit uses Microchip's KEELOQ rolling code technology to access some brands of garage door openers. Every KEELOQ-based HomeLink transmission includes 5 parts:
  1. Serial Number
  2. Button/Function Code
  3. Status Code
  4. Counter Value
  5. Discrimination Bits
In a given message to be transmitted, these portions are organized as follows:********>********>*******>********>*******>********> *******> ********>
Unencrypted Encrypted
Status
Code
Button
Code
Serial
Number
Button
Code
Discrimination
Bits
Counter
Value
The HomeLink unit transmits an unencrypted portion and an encrypted portion. The message is transmitted starting with the bit furthest to the right in the above figure and ending with the first bit furthest to the left.

Unencrypted Portion of the Transmission
The unencrypted portion of the transmission includes the status code, the button code, and the serial number.

Serial Number (24 or 28 bits).
Each HomeLink unit has a serial number which the garage door opener reads to distinguish the HomeLink unit from other HomeLink units or other transmitters. The serial number can be 24 or 28 bits long, depending on the garage door opener system, and the lower 8 bits are used to form the discrimination bits. The serial number is loaded from memory for each transmission.

If all else fails, call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help - and write back here what you found out.
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Last edited by delmarco; 10-20-2010 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:33 AM   #52
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Very good DIY
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:38 AM   #53
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SUGGESTION:

my fabric did not easily separate from the plastic so i used a heat gun (pointed at the plastic side) to break the adhesive and ran some dental floss inbetween the plastic / fabric to shave the two apart.

----

otherwise this DIY is spot-on and i completed successfully
(also did hardwire radar on the green/blue Homelink power wire)

thanks!
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:28 PM   #54
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Hi Delmarco! Nice DIY. Always a big fan of your DIY's. Today I got my transmitter which I bought from Ebay. I noticed your harness has 3 wires but mine has only two. I have a '99 328i with a manufacture date of 11/1998 so it's possible that during that time the rolling code transmitter were not out yet (don't quote me on that). So that's why the cars then only had two wires. One to power the transmitter unit and the other to ground it. Yours has 3: one to power the unit, one to power the lights within the unit and the other to ground the unit. The transmitter I have has 3 pins on the female receptor. This is my best guess. What's your take on it? And if there's anybody else out there with the older E46s that have the two wires instead of the three, let me know so I know that that situation is normal. I'm thinking of just running a new wire into the blank pin and splice it with the other power lead to complete the full function of the transmitter. Thanks!!!!!
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:29 PM   #55
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Never mind. For anybody out there with the older E46 models. That is you're missing the 2nd pin wire to light up the unit, here's the solution:

In order to provide light to the Homelink unit, you need to get a wire feed into the 2nd pin and splice it into the Gray/Red wire which is pin 2 of the sunroof switch.
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:44 PM   #56
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awesome diy~ thanks bro
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:14 PM   #57
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Delmarco, I will be sure to check out your other diy posts.
Thank you for posting this.
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:35 PM   #58
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Installed my Homelink today, works like a charm for my 2 garage doors.
The pictoral DIY was a huge help, it made the installation much easier.
The programming was a real PITA - without the step-by-step programming instructions here and the troubleshooting section I would have been stuck - once I followed that post everything worked out.

thx
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:14 PM   #59
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great diy. Going to try to find on of these of ebay for a good deal shortly.
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:21 PM   #60
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great DIY. going on a year with mine!
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