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Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

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Old 09-07-2009, 07:25 PM   #21
tdekany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suprtran View Post
anyways, i ask because using running water as lubricant for clay barring upon rinsing the car after a soapy wash would save A LOT of time versus spritzing small sections after the car has dried.

It however wastes a lot of water, however I do that all the time.

Another method I use is I "rewash" the car (panel by panel) a second time and use that as the lubricant.

Try your method and see how the paint reacts. Unless it is a spot claying, polishing is recommended after decontemination.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:27 PM   #22
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It's cool man all love from my side. the water method worked out just fine for me.

That is the only thing that matters.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by tdekany View Post
It however wastes a lot of water, however I do that all the time.

Another method I use is I "rewash" the car (panel by panel) a second time and use that as the lubricant.

Try your method and see how the paint reacts. Unless it is a spot claying, polishing is recommended after decontemination.

sounds good. thanks.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Eazy-E46 View Post
I'm glad you said it was silly to prove a point, because I love shutting people up.



I give you, WATER+CLAY!




Jebus I seez lot's and lot's of marring! OMG someonez helpz meh!
im sorry but those pics dont mean anything. you cant see marring with that quality of pics or that type of lighting.

alot of detailers do use the leftover water from the previous rinse to use less lube or qd to save some product. i myself use the leftover water from the rinse plus clay lube. just using water may work for you, but i wouldnt suggest it. thats like using a medium grade clay on a typical clean car. youre just creating more work for yourself.

how does paint finish look under halogen lights on in the sun? but if you feel fine with just water and it works for you then let it be

to the OP, there are seveal cost effective solutions to clay lube if you dont feel like spending $5-$10 per qd bottle. ONR can be diluted to be a clay lube.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:09 PM   #25
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I do this for a living, I may have a few more hours of detailing behind me.
^ is internationally known for his knowledge on detailing.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:50 AM   #26
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water + clay is a terribad idea

it will depend on the type of clay though

however, most otc clay and clays you can buy in the US need a lubricant
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:39 AM   #27
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I don't get the point of this method - is it to save money?

As stated already, diluted ONR can be used. Or I would think even just some normal carwash soap heavily diluted with water would work too, but I've not tried it.
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Old 09-08-2009, 05:48 PM   #28
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I don't get the point of this method - is it to save money?

As stated already, diluted ONR can be used. Or I would think even just some normal carwash soap heavily diluted with water would work too, but I've not tried it.
it's more for convenience not to save money.
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:24 PM   #29
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im sorry but those pics dont mean anything. You cant see marring with that quality of pics or that type of lighting.

Alot of detailers do use the leftover water from the previous rinse to use less lube or qd to save some product. I myself use the leftover water from the rinse plus clay lube. Just using water may work for you, but i wouldnt suggest it. Thats like using a medium grade clay on a typical clean car. Youre just creating more work for yourself.

How does paint finish look under halogen lights on in the sun? But if you feel fine with just water and it works for you then let it be

to the op, there are seveal cost effective solutions to clay lube if you dont feel like spending $5-$10 per qd bottle. Onr can be diluted to be a clay lube.
+1
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:44 PM   #30
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soapy water seems to work best for me! I have used just water and the clay bar has left streaks of clay, other times it has not.
I find that the soapy water lasts a little bit longer so you don't need to keep re-wetting the car!
It may depend on the grade of the clay bar as well!

I have also used spray wax and that seems to work really well because you can do the car section by section and wipe the spray wax off with a microfiber rag and the car comes out really nice!
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:31 PM   #31
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Guys- I wanted to respond to this thread as I was the guy who detailed Kris's car. It is not my intention to get into the great debate over water vs lubricant but to defend my client and friend since he stood up for me. It was at my doing and instruction that we used this process. I use a non-abrasive clay product and lots of water. BTW- I too use halogen lighting and we surveyed the car the whole way through. For those of you that made comments about angle or position of photos taken, you are quite correct. We all know how lighting shows the real issues of paint and clear coat. I brought my M3 out in the sunlight and let it sit there through the whole process so Kris could see the condition of my car in direct sunlight. I have clayed my car with water more times than I want admit with no adverse reactions. I give the guy props for standing up for me but felt it only responsible on my part to interject my position. I admire the work that some of you do and respect your views on all subjects relating to detailing or paint correction.

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Old 09-08-2009, 09:53 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by ljim52 View Post
Guys- I wanted to respond to this thread as I was the guy who detailed Kris's car. It is not my intention to get into the great debate over water vs lubricant but to defend my client and friend since he stood up for me. It was at my doing and instruction that we used this process. I use a non-abrasive clay product and lots of water. BTW- I too use halogen lighting and we surveyed the car the whole way through. For those of you that made comments about angle or position of photos taken, you are quite correct. We all know how lighting shows the real issues of paint and clear coat. I brought my M3 out in the sunlight and let it sit there through the whole process so Kris could see the condition of my car in direct sunlight. I have clayed my car with water more times than I want admit with no adverse reactions. I give the guy props for standing up for me but felt it only responsible on my part to interject my position. I admire the work that some of you do and respect your views on all subjects relating to detailing or paint correction.

"If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything".
All the noob detailer's in this thread just got owned.
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by ljim52 View Post
Guys- I wanted to respond to this thread as I was the guy who detailed Kris's car. It is not my intention to get into the great debate over water vs lubricant but to defend my client and friend since he stood up for me. It was at my doing and instruction that we used this process. I use a non-abrasive clay product and lots of water. BTW- I too use halogen lighting and we surveyed the car the whole way through. For those of you that made comments about angle or position of photos taken, you are quite correct. We all know how lighting shows the real issues of paint and clear coat. I brought my M3 out in the sunlight and let it sit there through the whole process so Kris could see the condition of my car in direct sunlight. I have clayed my car with water more times than I want admit with no adverse reactions. I give the guy props for standing up for me but felt it only responsible on my part to interject my position. I admire the work that some of you do and respect your views on all subjects relating to detailing or paint correction.

"If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything".
May I ask why you insist on using no lube just plain water? I mean surely it isn't cost because if you use a product like ONR it costs pennies. Jet black is such a delicate/soft paint that I find any precaution to prevent marring should be taken.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:06 AM   #34
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All the noob detailer's in this thread just got owned.
Why do you insist on making this into an one side against another, your way is 100% correct and if no one agrees their morons type thread? You seem to be the only one in the thread that is not actually learning something from the posted material, and to be honest you sound to be the only "noob" detailer in this thread. Grow up!

And for what its worth I suggest that if you do not have any clay lube or quick detailer to use, mix regular car soap and water at a 1:8 mix for a great homemade lube.
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Last edited by Shuskan3; 09-09-2009 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:14 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ljim52 View Post
Guys- I wanted to respond to this thread as I was the guy who detailed Kris's car. It is not my intention to get into the great debate over water vs lubricant but to defend my client and friend since he stood up for me. It was at my doing and instruction that we used this process. I use a non-abrasive clay product and lots of water. BTW- I too use halogen lighting and we surveyed the car the whole way through. For those of you that made comments about angle or position of photos taken, you are quite correct. We all know how lighting shows the real issues of paint and clear coat. I brought my M3 out in the sunlight and let it sit there through the whole process so Kris could see the condition of my car in direct sunlight. I have clayed my car with water more times than I want admit with no adverse reactions. I give the guy props for standing up for me but felt it only responsible on my part to interject my position. I admire the work that some of you do and respect your views on all subjects relating to detailing or paint correction.

"If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything".
All detailing clay, even the OTC Mother's and Meguiar's stuff, is abrasive.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:18 AM   #36
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All the noob detailer's in this thread just got owned.
Oh nooo he di-int!!!!! Huh????

This thread is ridiculous. In all respects it makes sense to have some form of lubricant (which is also a diluted cleaning solution) for the clay, which assists in the cleaning better than water alone and also helps keep the surface slippery.

Just because someone said they CAN use clay with just water without noticeable marring doesn't mean it is the ideal method. We don't have a scientific study to show whether they are cleaning as thoroughly with water alone vs a lube.

I'm all for shortcuts that make sense, but I don't buy the "convenience" thing. Why is it so "inconvenient" to spritz some form of lube from a 99 cent Home Depot spray bottle vs constantly running a hose across the area? I'm sure everyone has little personal biases and shortcuts etc that they use on their own cars but I am not feeling this one. And why does this have to become some "battle-rap" competition to defend a deficient short cut that wasn't a process problem to begin with?

Give me a shortcut that actually saves time or money please
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:20 AM   #37
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The entire reason you dry a car immediately after you wash it is to prevent water spots. Water spots are partly the reason you clay a car... removing industrial fallout, sap, and whatever else is on the paint. If you dry the car first, it is very easy to do a panel at a time with out worrying about the rest of the car spotting while it dries.

Unless you are using pure filtered water, I wouldn't recommend using just plain old water.
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:28 AM   #38
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Yes water WORKS, but is it the BEST thing to use? No.

Its like saying "can I use just water to wash my car?" Yes, you could take a hose and a mitt, and wash your car with just water. Would it be cleaner? Yes. Is it the better to use soap that helps clean better, lubricate and emulsify dirt, etc......YES
+1 Sums the all thread up without any epic battle of who uses just water and who uses lubricated solutions.
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:23 PM   #39
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soapy water....did someone not read the post, and keep it lubed real good. Wash the car, and then a second rinse. Then some soapy water (car wash soap) will work as good as lube.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:17 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by ljim52 View Post
Guys- I wanted to respond to this thread as I was the guy who detailed Kris's car. It is not my intention to get into the great debate over water vs lubricant but to defend my client and friend since he stood up for me. It was at my doing and instruction that we used this process. I use a non-abrasive clay product and lots of water. BTW- I too use halogen lighting and we surveyed the car the whole way through. For those of you that made comments about angle or position of photos taken, you are quite correct. We all know how lighting shows the real issues of paint and clear coat. I brought my M3 out in the sunlight and let it sit there through the whole process so Kris could see the condition of my car in direct sunlight. I have clayed my car with water more times than I want admit with no adverse reactions. I give the guy props for standing up for me but felt it only responsible on my part to interject my position. I admire the work that some of you do and respect your views on all subjects relating to detailing or paint correction.

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