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Motorsports & Track Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:16 PM   #21
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I just checked. From the point of release until it hits the floor, 0.780 seconds. Release point was 1.5m above the floor.
haha so I fixed my previous post
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:49 PM   #22
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When I pulled the pan on the Z4, it took me a while because when you have a brand new 6 speed from BMW, the new front casting is made to fit numerous engines, but does not have the cutouts to remove the two bolts at the rear of the pan (like the older 6 speeds). So, with some work (using a few drills and a hacksaw) everything works just fine.
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Old 09-20-2009, 10:00 PM   #23
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When I pulled the pan on the Z4, it took me a while because when you have a brand new 6 speed from BMW, the new front casting is made to fit numerous engines, but does not have the cutouts to remove the two bolts at the rear of the pan (like the older 6 speeds). So, with some work (using a few drills and a hacksaw) everything works just fine.
How high does your "airjack" system go?

When I changed the clutch on my car a couple of weeks ago...I ended up re-installing the tranny myself by hand. (no tranny jack) I don't think I've sworn so much in my life....
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:32 PM   #24
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The nut is pretty easy to drill a hole through. If you have the ability to remove the oil pan, I bet you have the ability to drill a hole through the nut.

The only reason why people are trying different shafts, is because the 3.0l motor breaks off the shaft. It took me about 5 blown up motors to figure out how to keep this from happening. I can tell you that it takes about 117 seconds of no oil pressure to blow up the motor.
You had nothing in your car to tell you that you had no oil pressure??
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:49 AM   #25
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Really? I thought getting it back in was the easy part

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How high does your "airjack" system go?

When I changed the clutch on my car a couple of weeks ago...I ended up re-installing the tranny myself by hand. (no tranny jack) I don't think I've sworn so much in my life....
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:30 AM   #26
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So does everyone here think that the VAC Upgraded Oil Pump kit is a waste of time because it seems for the pictures and description like it would work well? Does anybody here know about how long would it take a good mechanic to install the oil pump upgrade kit and baffle?

I was thinking about going with this kit and their baffle at the same time when I swap out my engine and tranny mounts; it's definitely a hell of a lot cheaper than the Motorsport kit! Is everything below basically what you get with the VAC kit?



Thanks.

Last edited by SpeedDemon; 09-23-2009 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:45 PM   #27
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Does anybody here know about how long would it take a good mechanic to install the oil pump upgrade kit and baffle?
I was going to go with the baffle and drilled nut but I'm not a hardcore track junky. Just doing it for peace of mind. I imagine that the baffle wouldn't take long but I think you would need the services of a welder.
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:11 AM   #28
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So does everyone here think that the VAC Upgraded Oil Pump kit is a waste of time because it seems for the pictures and description like it would work well? Does anybody here know about how long would it take a good mechanic to install the oil pump upgrade kit and baffle?

I was thinking about going with this kit and their baffle at the same time when I swap out my engine and tranny mounts; it's definitely a hell of a lot cheaper than the Motorsport kit! Is everything below basically what you get with the VAC kit?



Thanks.
That's the one that I took out of the Z4. As for the baffle, you need to cut the stock one out, drill and tap three holes. Then you need to seal the back sides of the pan as you'll have three holes on it.
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:16 AM   #29
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That's the one that I took out of the Z4. As for the baffle, you need to cut the stock one out, drill and tap three holes. Then you need to seal the back sides of the pan as you'll have three holes on it.
Did you take the VAC pump out because you had a problem with it? If so, what was the problem?

Thanks!
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Old 09-26-2009, 04:37 PM   #30
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That's the one that I took out of the Z4. As for the baffle, you need to cut the stock one out, drill and tap three holes. Then you need to seal the back sides of the pan as you'll have three holes on it.
I didn't bolt mine in, I just had it welded in.
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Old 09-26-2009, 06:45 PM   #31
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As for the oil pump. I never knew what the engine had in it as is was a used racecar. When I finally took the engine apart, I discovered the pump problem. The bolt was tight and had red loctite on it. Thing is, the sprocket was loose and was wobbling around on the shaft. You could tell that it was a matter of time before it was going to fail. I wish I would have kept it but I have enough parts sitting around and if it's no good, it goes in the garbage. Since I've had good luck with the motorsport system, I just keep using it. You have to remember, I rent these cars out. If you were renting my car, wouldn't you want the best thing in that motor?

As for the baffle, the motorsport one is much more complex than the VAC one. It has a whole bunch of doors in it and costs a fortune. I bolt it in because (for example) the Z4 busted the oil pan when it was wrecked a few months back. I was able to take the baffle out and stick it in another pan. A few years ago, we blew usp a motor and I was able to take the baffle out and clean out all of the babbit.

One other thing. I actually do have an oil pressure light. In addition to that, the AIM dash will flash a warning across the bottom of the dash. Thing is, you actually have to look at the dash to know it's out of oil pressure (just like on a street car).
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:25 PM   #32
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So is the VAC one a good option for a street/track car? I'm confused from the posts I've read about exactly what problems people have experienced with the VAC stuff.
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:15 AM   #33
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Something tells me that Mrshelley is pretty serious about racing. I would say that the VAC option is sufficient for most of us who occasionally go to the track for fun and want to take some precautions.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:12 AM   #34
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Remember, in Koni, we log a pretty good amount of hours. I think it was around 200 hours in 2008 alone.
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:11 PM   #35
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So is the VAC one a good option for a street/track car? I'm confused from the posts I've read about exactly what problems people have experienced with the VAC stuff.
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Something tells me that Mrshelley is pretty serious about racing. I would say that the VAC option is sufficient for most of us who occasionally go to the track for fun and want to take some precautions.
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Remember, in Koni, we log a pretty good amount of hours. I think it was around 200 hours in 2008 alone.
I know, but I'm just trying to find out exactly what kinds of problems Adam and Shelley have had with their VAC kits in the past exactly so I can know what their weak points are.

I'm aware that the VAC kit is probably good enough "for the rest of us" but I want to make sure that it is really a worthwhile improvement over the stock configuration (mostly the pump since I'm aware that the baffle does a good job at what its supposed to).

Thanks!
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:57 PM   #36
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I know, but I'm just trying to find out exactly what kinds of problems Adam and Shelley have had with their VAC kits in the past exactly so I can know what their weak points are.

I'm aware that the VAC kit is probably good enough "for the rest of us" but I want to make sure that it is really a worthwhile improvement over the stock configuration (mostly the pump since I'm aware that the baffle does a good job at what its supposed to).

Thanks!
You are going to have to accept that there is risk in using the VAC kit. Whether that risk applies to your use of the engine depends on how often the engine will live above 6000 RPM.

Do I think that the VAC kit is better than stock? Yes, I do.

The VAC kit's primary "upgrade" is the use of 2 machined locking surfaces for the sprocket, versus the stock piece with 1.

Both the OEM nut, and the VAC bolt have proven to back off even when loctite is applied and torqued properly. The only 100% solution to this is welding, however then you get into the fatigue life of the oil pump input shaft. Mr.Shelley can comment on this with experience, as he's seen the oil pump input shaft sheered off completely after welding.

So to summarize:

- Leaving it stock you'll probably see a failure with track use.
- The VAC kit offers better component quality than OEM.
- Without welding, you'll see the nut or bolt back off by itself.
- With welding you'll see the input shaft sheer off at some point.
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:26 AM   #37
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^^^ Thank you!
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:15 AM   #38
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This thread has been inactive for a while. To give it a bump - does anyone have a root cause for the failure of the fastener or the shaft itself? Sounds like there a bunch of bandaids being discussed, but the root cause may be what needs to be attacked..
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Old 11-26-2009, 12:44 PM   #39
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I believe that the root cause is the way the engine internals vibrate over 6000 RPM; getting increasingly more severe, the higher you rev.

The fact that the shaft is too thin and doesn't have multiple connection points to the sprocket is what allows it the wear over time on race motors and then break.

The nut falls off mostly because there is no thread locker applied from the factory and that becomes a bigger problem when you put that together with the fact that the stock nut isn't reverse-threaded and you've got the problem. With that said, the ZHP is the only E46 M54 car that came with threadlocker on the nut from the factory: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=714263
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:06 PM   #40
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So to summarize:

- Leaving it stock you'll probably see a failure with track use.
- The VAC kit offers better component quality than OEM.
- Without welding, you'll see the nut or bolt back off by itself.
- With welding you'll see the input shaft sheer off at some point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaio76109 View Post
If anyone is SERIOUSLY(!!!) interested in the 3/4 bolt sprocket shaft PM me. It's not cheap, but it's cheaper than the other options, and equally as good IMO.
I need to replace my oil pan gasket soon so I thought I would revisit this subject. Seems the only bulletproof solution is the Motorsport kit but the pricing on that makes for an expensive bit of insurance given the price of a replacement engine these days (edit: until you blow multiple motors). Where would vaio's 3/4 bolt sprocket shaft slot into the upgrade heirarchy? Why doesn't this solution seem to be more common? Have any new options surfaced recently?
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