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General E46 Forum
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:50 PM   #441
ddaniel1
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Also if you disassemble the valve body, do not mix up the accumulator parts (the 4 large round cylinders) the springs are color coded and are supposed to go back in the same place based on the attached bulletin.
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File Type: pdf 134169373-GM5L40E-Accumulators.pdf (412.1 KB, 33 views)
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:00 PM   #442
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^^ Thanks! That's a nice shot of the check ball locations!

^ I didn't know that about the accumulator springs, but my intuition was to keep them in order.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:15 PM   #443
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In addition to the mechanical failure, the solenoids also fail electrically, below are shift solenoids, the coil failure caused me to lose 4th gear:

The fourth gear solenoid that was bad, at only six months the coil had failed, 10.2 ohms:




Here is a good one, 15-17 ohms for the shift solenoids:







Here is a chart with the ohm values and pins so you can check your solenoids from outside of the transmission, I would do this before opening the pan, TCC solenoid discussed in this thread should be 10-11.5 Ohms:


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Old 04-18-2014, 08:46 AM   #444
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This is so cool!
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:31 AM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbro858 View Post
Abrasive... insulting? Probably.

You shouldn't take anything personal on the internet/forums. Use the positive comments/recommendations and disregard the negative stuff.

Your car is old and you should be able to find out anything you need to know by searching forums and reading. Anything you think about posting has probably already been asked numerous times.

Also, if you have some basic tools... you are highly capable of replacing parts yourself.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:29 PM   #446
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Originally Posted by lszlszx View Post
Experience shows that the problem is the valve body.
To be specific, it's the wear of the lockout bore.

If replacement of the solenoid didn't fix it, my next step would be to install the reverse lock out bore repair kit.
See picture above!


I agree with this. I did not know of the bore kit when my car would not select R with any degree of reliability, but I did know of the solenoid. My car was cured with a new solenoid and fresh fluid, but it makes sense to clear the bore while the transmission is open, instead of opening it twice.

I think the bigger point is that if you have the GM5L40E and it will not go into R, you can cure it for less than $100 in parts, plus the price of fresh fluid.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:35 PM   #447
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Originally Posted by lszlszx View Post
Neil isn't active right now on the forum.
The forward gears aren't problematic on these transmissions.
+1, the forward gears are not a problem.

I think it was Joy that asked what GM stands for. GM stands for General Motors.

GM used this transmission on some of its cars and issued a recall for No Reverse. BMW elected to not issue a recall.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #448
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GM just recalled some cars for non-functioning or improper reading fuel guage. There must be many issues that surface on the internet, and manufacturer chooses to ignore, but knows about, plays the "let's wait and see" game
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:15 PM   #449
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Hello everyone. Im about to buy another e46 as posted here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...1#post16143400

and Im wondering has there been any reverse failures in the 03-04 ZF's?
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:23 PM   #450
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Hey guys

I am actually debating between 2 cars- but something does not seem right.

03 330ci, has GM A5S 390R, great as I want to avoid the ZF tranny.

Now I am also looking at an 04 330ci, but the vin decoders are saying it has the ZF A5S 325Z! How is this possible if they used GMs from 3/2003 and up? Build date on this one is 7/2004 so it strikes me as a bit odd!
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:49 PM   #451
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We don't see many failures with the later model transmissions, GM, or ZF.
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #452
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take a peak underneath, and try the pan bolt count?
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Old 06-12-2014, 10:26 PM   #453
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Auto problem

I am experiencing the same problem and this post has given me some clues now tho find out what goes
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Old 06-12-2014, 11:45 PM   #454
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Keep us posted!
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:36 PM   #455
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Update on GM 5L40e trany leaking out of breather on 2000 e39 528i

I ended up taking it into a good German Trany shop. They rebuilt the forward pump (it's located behind the Torque Converter inside the trany, by replacing two solenoids on it. Also had them replace the Torque Converter and Rear Main Seal. So far so good, no more blowing ATF out of breather on GM 5L40e trany on my 2000 528i.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:26 AM   #456
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Mike is a ZF for a 6 cylinder 330ci I have had it diagnosed and I heard the clutch or bearing spinning around when revved up it's definitely knackered
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:15 PM   #457
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Same thing happened to my old 98 auto e36 320i but in drive it doesn't engage to first gear. But when knob is in 2 I was using first gear. I changed oil and filter, filter was terribly choked up. I didn't want to repair and used it like that for a while. One day I shifted to n and shut the car in downhill when it's moving at 10mph. Then shifted to d. It harshly engaged to first gear and after it works like it should. never did this again for 10k miles. Maybe this can help you guys too.

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Old 07-04-2014, 06:48 AM   #458
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Just wanted to throw my $.02 in here.

I'm having the reverse issue, too, at 140k. Going to replace the TCC. HOWEVER, since it's a GM tranny, I've found the GM part number: 24227747

It can be found here by Rostra: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/74418E.html

Or get the AC/Delco version just about anywhere: http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-242277.../dp/B000IZ3NVU

This is the way I am going with mine. I see this as a GM problem, not BMW, so I don't see the point in paying BMW prices. I'm going to make sure the mechanic takes care in removing the solenoid so that if there are any missing parts, we might be able to fish them out though I'm sure they would have worked their way into the valve body by now.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:44 PM   #459
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May as well add my experience to the list. My teenager's 2000 328Ci began the 100% random no reverse at 190K. It would fail once or twice a week. Before we parked we would op check the reverse. If it worked, we parked with confidence because we knew it would work when we left. If it didn't, all we had to do was run the car up to highway speed a few miles and it would come back. It seemed to fail more frequently if the car sat for a few days not driven. It never failed cold....unless it was not working when we parked and let the sit overnight. In that case it still would not work. After spending two months trying to come up with any kind of trend (which we never did because it was totally random, other than only happening when warm and at low pressure) we decided to fix. Upon removal of the pan and the TCC solonoid we found that the filter/screen was completely detached and blocking the reverse lockout bore. By driving the car to highway speed after reverse failed, it would dislodge the filter enough to allow reverse to work until it got in the way again. Disassembled and cleaned valve body, replaced wiring harness, replaced TCC solonoid, seals, gaskets, filter and fluid. Problem completely fixed and no issues since.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:34 PM   #460
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It's exactly what happened to mine, I documented it.
Even if the fix didn't work, getting 190K out of the box is something.
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