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Old 04-01-2010, 08:45 PM   #101
neil1138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad21 View Post
Pipebomb, what was the step by step procedure you used?

I find it hard to believe that is not in this thread somewhere.
What procedure could there be? Follow a regular transmission fluid DIY and you'll see the solenoid RIGHT THERE. All you do is pull the quick clip and replace it, it's so simple man
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:27 PM   #102
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Ah. Well now it has been said. I am going to create a picture tutorial for this procedure.
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:28 PM   #103
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I was inclined enough to take apart my entire transmission and take photos of the solenoid which are in the first post of this thread. If those aren't helpful to you then I'm sorry for my shortcomings. If you have anything to add to this thread once you make your picture tutorial, it would be appreciated
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:06 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by neil1138 View Post
I was inclined enough to take apart my entire transmission and take photos of the solenoid which are in the first post of this thread. If those aren't helpful to you then I'm sorry for my shortcomings. If you have anything to add to this thread once you make your picture tutorial, it would be appreciated
Neil, is the screen visible once you remove the solenoid or do you have to disassemble the solenoid. I'm still curious as to why you can't just clean it if it's just a clogged screen. Again, I haven't had mine apart yet, so I'm not familair with the solenoid yet. I've seen the your pictures, thanks, but sometimes you just need to hold it in your hand to understand it. Also, what are your thoughts on one of the other solenoids being a possible cause for a slow catching drive on a cold start?
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:16 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil1138 View Post
I was inclined enough to take apart my entire transmission and take photos of the solenoid which are in the first post of this thread. If those aren't helpful to you then I'm sorry for my shortcomings. If you have anything to add to this thread once you make your picture tutorial, it would be appreciated
I am extremely grateful for your thread.

This thread is very useful, and has given me hope.


This thread however is not clear as the exact procedure. It is mentioned no where.

I will put together a DIY thread, and link it here.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:22 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by DaHammer View Post
Neil, is the screen visible once you remove the solenoid or do you have to disassemble the solenoid. I'm still curious as to why you can't just clean it if it's just a clogged screen. Again, I haven't had mine apart yet, so I'm not familair with the solenoid yet. I've seen the your pictures, thanks, but sometimes you just need to hold it in your hand to understand it. Also, what are your thoughts on one of the other solenoids being a possible cause for a slow catching drive on a cold start?
Yes it is visible. The thought of just cleaning the screen has never crossed my mind, I just think it would probably be better practice to completely replace the solenoid because who knows what has happened to it after being clogged for so long? My recommendation stands: replace the solenoid and it would probably be good practice to completely flush your transmission fluid and change the filter. Definitely change the filter if you only choose to do one thing, from taking apart my transmission, the filter really breaks down and I looking back, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the root of all of these clogging filters.

Another thought: if you feel that replacing your solenoid might not be enough, look into cleaning out your valve body. I need to go back and look at mine a little closer but from what I remember, it's not really possible to clean it without taking it apart which is very difficult to do properly. My thoughts are that if your little filter got clogged, who's to say that the entire valve body isn't gunked up and might cause another problem?

Another consideration: Look at your internal transmission wiring harness, the connectors degrade over time and become so brittle. I wouldn't be surprised if a loose contact could be a problem. A slow catching drive hmmm.... I would be hesitant to say that one of the other solenoids could be at fault. But then again they do regulate pressure for gear engagement. But again, something to consider is that your valve body might be gunked due to a bad filter, in return causing that slow drive engagement. In situations where someones transmission is actually acting up, I'm always an advocate for a full fluid and filter change to eliminate any fluid/filter caused problems. I see it as though what do you have to lose when your transmission is already on the downhill?

Torque converters are another big big big problem that can cause delayed engagement but those have other visible symptoms. Send me a pm or reply here if you need any more advice, this post is very long winded and I'm sorry for that

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad21 View Post
I am extremely grateful for your thread.

This thread is very useful, and has given me hope.


This thread however is not clear as the exact procedure. It is mentioned no where.

I will put together a DIY thread, and link it here.
Yeah, I only had remembered what the problem could be and made this thread long after I had already swapped to a manual. I would have made a DIY but I didn't see any point. Like I said, it's exactly like a fluid change DIY. You take off the transmission pan, then you'll see the filter. You remove the filter and you'll see the intricate valve body. Then you can reference my photos and find where the reverse solenoid is, you get a flathead screwdriver and pry the ring clip up, slide the solenoid out and replace it. That is it, there are no other procedures, no bolts to undo, nothing. Every picture you need is here, that is why no diy was made. You can always reference my transmission teardown thread which has every transmission picture you will ever need for taking apart a transmission. I don't know how it could get any more detailed

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=713780

Last edited by neil1138; 04-02-2010 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 02:47 AM   #107
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May I butt in and ask a question kind sirs?

I have the A5S390R GM tranny. Two days ago, my transmission slipped. By slipped I mean not moving even though in gear unless I floor the gas. This is coupled with the gear/cog sign with "!" in the center. I still have reverse though. Shutting down the engine and letting it sit for a few seconds removes the problem but it resurfaces after a few meters of travel. I got home with the car driving like a sloth.

After reading around I have ordered 9 quarts of Mobil Dexron IV, a new trans oil pan gasket and filter. May I know if I'm on the right track?

This forum never ceases to help. Many thanks. Any Help is appreciated.
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:14 AM   #108
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Here is a link to the best tutorial on how to change the ATF fluid on a GM tranny

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...n+fluid+change

Please include it on your original post.
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:11 PM   #109
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Here is a link to the best tutorial on how to change the ATF fluid on a GM tranny

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...n+fluid+change

Please include it on your original post.
I linked that to you in your other thread, and why would I link it in my post? This isn't a thread about changing your ATF, so no. Everyone who has done this has fared just fine, I'm sure they will continue to do so.

Last edited by neil1138; 04-09-2010 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 04-11-2010, 12:43 PM   #110
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I just bought a 2000 323i with the GM transmission. Replacing the fluid fixed my No Reverse issues entirely. I asked for the solenoid to be replaced too, but the mechanic said it was okay, and the screen was clean.

I could feel the solenoid activating slowly, and the performance of Reverse varied from no Reverse to slipping Reverse to Reverse with no problems. I could tell when Reverse was selected with gusto -- a bump into gear, like the feeling when Drive is engaged -- and when it is selected weakly and the force grows as the solenoid moved further, and when it simply refused go into R at all.

I took the chance on this car after reading the article posted here, and found that my care had the GM transmission, not the ZF. I rolled the dice and won. I scored a BMW for three grand, plus the price of a fluid change. We'll see if I hit a home run, but for now the ball is still in the air. Before you go out and buy a new transmission, swing the bat at a fluid change and consider a new solenoid for about $85 -- the cost of added labor for the part should be very low since most of the work is already needed anyhow.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:47 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
I just bought a 2000 323i with the GM transmission. Replacing the fluid fixed my No Reverse issues entirely. I asked for the solenoid to be replaced too, but the mechanic said it was okay, and the screen was clean.

I could feel the solenoid activating slowly, and the performance of Reverse varied from no Reverse to slipping Reverse to Reverse with no problems. I could tell when Reverse was selected with gusto -- a bump into gear, like the feeling when Drive is engaged -- and when it is selected weakly and the force grows as the solenoid moved further, and when it simply refused go into R at all.

I took the chance on this car after reading the article posted here, and found that my care had the GM transmission, not the ZF. I rolled the dice and won. I scored a BMW for three grand, plus the price of a fluid change. We'll see if I hit a home run, but for now the ball is still in the air. Before you go out and buy a new transmission, swing the bat at a fluid change and consider a new solenoid for about $85 -- the cost of added labor for the part should be very low since most of the work is already needed anyhow.
Good info. If you believe the fluid was the problem and not the solenoid that your mechanic said was fine (after running diagnostics on it I suppose), why do you recommend considering a new solenoid? Keep us updated if the fluid replacement produces a long lasting solution of the "no reverse" problem. The premise that the r. solenoid is the problem is still questionable to me since some people have reported that changing the solenoid has not solved the problem.

P.s But I so wish it was as simple as a solenoid!
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Old 04-11-2010, 02:00 PM   #112
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I only recommend considering the solenoid because if one goes in asking for a fluid flush, and the tech comes back and says the solenoid must be replaced too, then there is a good chance this is true.

I've not seen the stories of flushing the GM5 and the No Reverse problem was not solved. I've seen stories where owners of GM5s were told that the trans had to be replaced when the reality appears to be that only a fluid change -- amd perhaps the solenoid as well -- is required.

As a matter of record, I'd have preferred that my solenoid was replaced since I specifically asked for it. By the time I found that it had not been replaced, the pan had already been put back on and the car had been prepped for pick up. Now, I'm at the mercy of somebody that I pray knows more about this stuff than I do. I believe the trouble is a combination of fluid and hardware, but all I got was new fluid. I hope this does the trick, so far it's been fine. But it has only been two weeks, so the data set is very small.
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:12 AM   #113
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I only recommend considering the solenoid because if one goes in asking for a fluid flush, and the tech comes back and says the solenoid must be replaced too, then there is a good chance this is true.

I've not seen the stories of flushing the GM5 and the No Reverse problem was not solved. I've seen stories where owners of GM5s were told that the trans had to be replaced when the reality appears to be that only a fluid change -- amd perhaps the solenoid as well -- is required.

As a matter of record, I'd have preferred that my solenoid was replaced since I specifically asked for it. By the time I found that it had not been replaced, the pan had already been put back on and the car had been prepped for pick up. Now, I'm at the mercy of somebody that I pray knows more about this stuff than I do. I believe the trouble is a combination of fluid and hardware, but all I got was new fluid. I hope this does the trick, so far it's been fine. But it has only been two weeks, so the data set is very small.
The fluid pressure (due to clogged filter) is a good possible cause of no reverse, I'd do the solenoid replacement myself in the face of $5000 dollars bill, so I'm just being scientific and want to know the real cause of this problem. I give credits to Neil for starting this thread that keeps us thinking what the real cause is...
P.s I've done the fluid replacement myself, GM tranny, 1K so far so good (to clarify, I did not have a no reverse problem, but replaced the fluid preventively

Last edited by Starless; 04-12-2010 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:48 PM   #114
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I am trying to replace the Pressure regulator,converter lockup clutch and I am stuck. It is too long to come out without hitting on the trans wall.

How do I drop this assembly so there is room for the regulator to come out? I removed all the bolts, (4 long star male and 1 short star female screw(in image, removed after picture), 5 total) After removing all the bolts I pulled pretty hard on it and no budge.

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Old 04-13-2010, 11:59 PM   #115
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:17 AM   #116
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Just finished with this repair. Immediately reverse did not work, but I drove the car about 10 miles, and reverse started working. Hopefully it stays working now, I will report back.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:19 AM   #117
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Good for you man, let us know how it goes. And you know you can edit your previous post right? You don't have to post 3 times in a row
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:46 AM   #118
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Are there any passages in the valve body -- the large assembly that's held on by those 7 screws -- that need to be cleaned, or anything like that?

My mechanic said that the screen was not clogged, but he could not know that for certain unless he removed those 7 screws to get the clearance to pull the solenoid out for inspection. The whole reason I took the car into the shop was because Reverse was not playing well with rest of the gears. I learned from here that the solenoid should be replaced, so my guy supposedly ordered one but then did not use it. Reverse is cooperating, so I guess it's okay, but I can't help but wonder if I need to flush the fluid again in a couple of months, or if the issue is resolved.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:38 PM   #119
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Are there any passages in the valve body -- the large assembly that's held on by those 7 screws -- that need to be cleaned, or anything like that?
Well I sure hope not, I just dropped it that tiny bit, then bolted it right back when I was done replacing the regulator. The passages in the valve body will not be opened or exposed. You are merely dropping the whole valve body 1/4" on one corner.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:30 PM   #120
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Ok so my no reverse did not immediately get fixed after replacing the pressure regulator valve as described in this thread. I drove about 10 miles, then reverse starting working flawlessly. About 3 more drives of mostly short distances, and it was still working.

Today, reverse stopped working again. I about punched my heavy bag off the brace.

I drove about 10 miles, and it still wasnt working. Then I drove it like a teenager going from 0-100 several times, and now reverse is working again.

I am inclined to beleive that replacing this pressure regulator does absolutely nothing. Neil the original poster didnt even try this out, it is just a theory of his that has now gone un proven.

I know for sure the old pressure regulator had a clean screen on it, the screen was not even a little clogged.

Changing the fluid seems to help some though, it could be a placebo, but it seems to shift smoother.

I will update as the days go on.

I am thinking about putting a 2nd garage door on the back of my garage so I will never need to use reverse lol.
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