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Old 04-18-2010, 05:13 AM   #121
maxi
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Hi Mr. Toad21
Are you sure that you fix back every thing well? I just would like to be sure that you did it well.
Keep updating
Thanks,
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:33 PM   #122
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I replaced recently the TCC solenoid and it worked. I put a link here: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...nsmission.html

Sonnax also has a technical article about this problem: http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TASC-TIP-02-09.pdf
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:36 PM   #123
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:40 PM   #124
Toad21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfcl View Post
I replaced recently the TCC solenoid and it worked. I put a link here: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...nsmission.html

Sonnax also has a technical article about this problem: http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TASC-TIP-02-09.pdf
Interesting, and great links.

Please report back in a few weeks as you have only had this fix for a week or so. Mine worked fine for a week, then lost reverse again. It has been working 4 days since then.

Something you did that I did not was cleaning of the bores with a spray. Could you explain this step a little more clearly?

Thanks.
-----------------
The OP doesn't want me to post several times in a row so I will add this here.

So it has been working for 4 days now. Today I drove in reverse for about 2 miles lol, wasnt easy. Just going around dead end streets, backing up to end, repeat. I am sure someone must have noticed and thought I was nuts lol.

I am hoping that it will stay working. I will report back later, as I hope everyone who has tried this will.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:37 AM   #125
sfcl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad21 View Post

Something you did that I did not was cleaning of the bores with a spray. Could you explain this step a little more clearly?
(In advance, sorry for my english...) I did that due to the Sonnax article saying that some debris can migrate in the circuit and get the valves stuck sometimes. Honestly I don't believe much in the clogged screens (the original fluid in the transmission was not that dirty) but Sonnax advice has some sense. As for the bores cleaning, not a big deal really, I simply used a small serynga in which I put some new fluid. I sprayed the fluid in the bores and let it coming back and draining. I know that some special automatic transmission sprays exist on the market but I didn't want to mix this sort of product with the fluid.

BTW, I did the same test as yours in the past, just going in reverse and doing 1 mile or so... Thinking to that however, it was probably not a great idea: Once the valve is open, it stays open and you can do probably 1000 miles like this!

Your problem seems to be similar (if not identical) to mine: You loose reverse when the tranny is fully hot and at low fluid pressure. The simple fact to run the car stronger should increase the pressure, unsticking the valve and moving the debris. To be honest, I suspect also that some o-rings in the valve body are leaking so the drop in pressure when the fluid is hot. Once again, getting a higher pressure by running the car hard should reduce the consequences of the leaks... Just a theory...
I'm almost to the point that draining the fluid and changing the filter is at least as important as replacing the solenoid. However, in this case, the transmission gears and discs have to be in good condition, and the valve body not too dirty otherwise the new fluid can cause some slipping or debris dislodging afterwards.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:10 AM   #126
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sfcl,

When my car is cold, that is when the no reverse pops its ugly head. After driving it for 10 miles, it has come back every time.

I beleive your theory on pressure is dead on.

I too had amazingly clean transmission fluid for 140k miles. There were 0 metal fragments on the magnet in the transmission pan. Also the pressure regulator's screen was extremely clean, and not fragile at all.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:56 PM   #127
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1000 miles, give or take, and the car did not go into Reverse this morning.

I had the fluid flushed AND asked for a new solenoid -- per the write-up -- but my mechanic said the solenoid was okay and he did not put in a new one.

Now I'm a bit peeved that I don't get the service I ask for when I ask for it. Crap, more stuff to mess with ...
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:25 PM   #128
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So there are 2 classifications for the no reverse failing on this transmission:

1. No reverse at high pressure (hot, been driving awhile)

2. No reverse at low pressure (just started car in morning)


At which category you fall into makes a big different in what needs to be done.

Since mine is low pressure, I am going to cover that in detail.

Low pressure: Defective TCC solenoid OR reverse lock-out valve stuck outward

"It is common for the filter to eventually break as a result of contact with the valve. Filter framents migrate to the Reverse Lockout bore and cause the valve to stick towards the retianer"

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...ZJH7zkqP3wRn-A




And here is my exact problem



Changing the fluid alone helps this problem some by possibly disloging the screen some and effecting the pressure. But the root of my problem is still floating around in my valve body.

Help me figure out the best way to tackle this project. (Neil where are you?)
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:12 PM   #129
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What would you expect the course of action to be? You need to get back in there, take out your valve body and remove that broken piece. That's what I'd assume

Tomorrow I'll take a look at my valve body and then I can get back to you. Don't do anything just yet
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:22 PM   #130
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Thank you neil!

That is exactly what I was thinking. My current future plan of action will be to take out the entire valve body, and clear the reverse lockout bore of the screen (minimum) There may be something I am missing at this point, but that would be the next logical step. It will not be all that hard, but I may royally screw something up.

I would appreciate any knowledge on how to do that.
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:30 PM   #131
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Yeah disassembling the valve body is srs bsns, don't do anything yet. I'll post back here tomorrow afternoon, no worries
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:34 AM   #132
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Thanks a lot for this nice new infos. Actually that's make wonder if my transmition has the same issue in the solenoid of the 1-2 shift. + the reverse. Sence I got harsh shift in these tow shifts when cold and disappear after 1 houre driving ( There is no CEL light or any fault code ). I dont know if I have to check both solenoid (reverse + 1-2 shift). I have gave to a michanic who advise me to ignore this problem which caused by valve body. but he didnt want to opent it for cheking or maintaining since he is not sure if it will be fixed or not. Eventhough, I still not Convinced about what he said.
Another problem that I'm not brave enough to wOrk in the trans.
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Old 04-23-2010, 05:07 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad21 View Post
So there are 2 classifications for the no reverse failing on this transmission:

1. No reverse at high pressure (hot, been driving awhile)

2. No reverse at low pressure (just started car in morning)
I have a different understanding: Low or high pressure don't have anything to do with the temperature. Pressure depends of the engine speed (this is why you get the reverse again after having driven the car hard) and of the oil viscosity. So, tranny cold or hot, once the engine is idling, the pressure is still low (although a little bigger when the fluid is cold due to viscosity).
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:07 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toad21 View Post
Thank you neil!

That is exactly what I was thinking. My current future plan of action will be to take out the entire valve body, and clear the reverse lockout bore of the screen (minimum) There may be something I am missing at this point, but that would be the next logical step. It will not be all that hard, but I may royally screw something up.

I would appreciate any knowledge on how to do that.
If you decide to diy repair the valve body, I'd recommend the ATSG 5L40E transmission overhaul manual. I have it and it's good although not very detailed. It's like Bentley but for GM transmission. It has diagrams, part numbers ,instructions how to take the slushbox apart and put it back together including the valve body. The book is like $30 online.

Meanwhile if you need a diagram or something, you can PM me and I'll try to scan a page or two for your personal use and PM you back (it's copyrighted so I do not want this stuff floating all over the Internet)

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/sit...ct/83-45L40ETM

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Old 04-26-2010, 03:13 AM   #135
maxi
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I have found this usfu to read.
http://printer1.blogspot.com/2010/01...fications.html

There is pdf file to download.

take a look.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:01 PM   #136
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Hmmm, from looking at my valve body I dunno. When I took my transmission apart I ripped apart the valve body and I thought I might be able to figure out the best way to clean it out, well nope. You really have to rip into it to get anything accomplished. The main thing that worries me are those floating pellet thingys, I don't even know how to put it back together without messing something up horribly. I would just take advantage of Alex's offer and just hit him up for some scans on how to take it apart properly.

Rebuilding a valve body is over my head
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:27 PM   #137
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Trans has been working flawlessly for 1 week now. I was thinking, if the screen gets caught in the reverse lockout bore, wouldn't it get dislodged eventually by it self? So this piston like thing springs into the reverse bore, it would move anything in its path. I don't see at all how this could be a "sometimes" not working scenario. If the screen is lodged in there, it would be an always not working. I doubt its the screen.

I shifted from reverse to neutral and back about 50 times in a row, and it worked every time. I was hoping maybe this would dislodge the stuck screen, if that is what the problem is.

Starless I will take you up on that offer, but I will at least wait until it fails again. I need this car for a couple weeks, but in mid May I will have time for this project.

I pretty much already mostly had the valve body out before, I am not too afraid of that. Its the opening it up that scares me.

Here is a good tutorial on completely removing the Valve body.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/673185

Now I need a tutorial on how to open it up and service it.

Maybe I could pay to buy a new one or have this one fixed. (anyone know price quotes on these?)

All of those options are cheaper than a new transmission.
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:33 PM   #138
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A new valve body is like $1500, don't want to do that
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Old 04-30-2010, 06:46 PM   #139
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Update: I will be pulling out my valve body this weekend starting tonight. I plan on cleaning it thoroughly and taking a lot of pictures. Wish me luck
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:52 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by Pipebomb View Post
Update: I will be pulling out my valve body this weekend starting tonight. I plan on cleaning it thoroughly and taking a lot of pictures. Wish me luck
Good luck! We'll appreciate the pictures!
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