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General E46 Forum
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:36 PM   #21
DrkSide_RbL
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The problem was the throttle body sticking. I cleaned it out as much as i can with throttle body cleaner. After that everything seemed to be ok. Havent had the problem since i cleaned it but I'm thinking of re-doing the cleaning but this time taking out the whole assembly and cleaning out the back part of it thoroughly so it doesn't happen again!!!
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:06 PM   #22
nandos_beat
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any issues as of late?
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Old 11-25-2010, 01:14 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nandos_beat View Post
any issues as of late?
i haven't driven the car for a couple months...new issues have come up..whats new right?..alternator is out now but I havent had the eml crap happen since the first time.
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:34 AM   #24
SweTurbo
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EML + ASC means the throttle body(in most cases), the electrical thottle has gotten stuck meaning that the ASC can't control engine output and the EML is on because of the motor can't self-test.
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Old 11-30-2010, 02:07 AM   #25
DrkSide_RbL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pir4t View Post
EML + ASC means the throttle body(in most cases), the electrical thottle has gotten stuck meaning that the ASC can't control engine output and the EML is on because of the motor can't self-test.
yes this is right..my throttle body was dirty so it was sticking..
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:13 AM   #26
mujjuman
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sometimes cleaning the TB wont fix it and you will have to replace it
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:47 PM   #27
midnightbeamer
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Hey guys - looks like I am having a similar issue. Check engine + EML + ASC light on. When I try to drive, there is very little acceleration (limp mode) and the tranny (auto) does not shift normally. The codes were P1580 and some other code that read "CAN moment...??" I'm hoping it's just a dirty throttle body, and not a transmission issue.

For those that did have this issue with an automatic transmission, was your shifting normal??

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-28-2010, 02:51 PM   #28
SweTurbo
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Originally Posted by midnightbeamer View Post
Hey guys - looks like I am having a similar issue. Check engine + EML + ASC light on. When I try to drive, there is very little acceleration (limp mode) and the tranny (auto) does not shift normally. The codes were P1580 and some other code that read "CAN moment...??" I'm hoping it's just a dirty throttle body, and not a transmission issue.

For those that did have this issue with an automatic transmission, was your shifting normal??

Thanks in advance!
An EML issue always puts the car in limp mode , limp mode limits the auto tranny to a few gears and the engine to 3k rpm.

Clean your TB
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:01 PM   #29
dephantn
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midnightbeamer
Yes, when you get those light off, you in limp mode, auto transmission does not shift normal. Car run very rough and slow.
If you scan, you get P1580 , & / or P1250 ..P0601,P0120 ..Peake /BMW code :Table 15 - 70-( &/ or 71) , or 76, 77,A9, Ad.
If you get (15)- 77, only stuck , clean throttle body will work ( remember put 2 drops of oil on each flap side axes, or pray WD40 to the end of 2 flap axes.)
This case, you can test by remove the cable on the throttle body ( sure your car has, the post 2000 no cable ), use hand move the throttle flap same way as the cable does, to see if it stuck. the cable connects to black plastic part, join & move the metal lever by spring coil, the metal itself can move alone. Use finger & move the lever ( even you don't need to remove cable ), it should be move easy & freely, or you feel the stuck. See picture #1
If it Stucks, best way is remove the throttle body & clean it out of car.
If (1) 70 / 71 / ... , mostly the sensors( actually they are 4 potentiometers at both ends of body bad, no other choice : change throttle body.
It was my recent case, Good thing is the used one only about $100 with warranty work or money back. I bought one $130 ( 50k miles), put in, work right away.
If you remove it, follow these way to test the sensors-potentiometers : (see picture # 2) You need Ohm meter.
It is the wiring socket of Body, it has 10 pins. from the top, count R to Left : 1,2 , then R to L 3,4,5, then 6, 7,8 and bottom 9,10. (Rem : always count from Right to Left ).
9 & 10 is the motor coil, 2 ohm. If you apply 6-12 V to it, it move the flap from close to open, ( reverse the batt. wire if it not move).
(Of course, you already clean & oil 2 ends of it first).
table of measure : ( tolerant 10% )
Pin 2 & 4 : 950 ohms
1 & 7 :950 ohms
Pin 2 & 5 __ Pin 2 & 3 __ pin 1 &6 ---- Pin 1 & 8 :
1600 Ohms , down to 1000 when you move the Axe to all open
flap.


Pin 4& 3 ___ pin 4 &5 ____Pin 7&6 ____ pin 7&8 : from 1000 Ohms go to 1650 when you move the flap axe to all open.Put very careful attention when you move the flap axe, the measurement change ( ohm ) will change continuously,. ONE WAY ( up or down) The BODY is good , NO discontinue, NO JUMPING.
IF something like that happen,(discontinue, JUMPING, goes up-down up, goes down, up & down ) the potentiometer bad, need replace.
Do not attempt to repair it, believe me. I did, open components inside, but could not ( I was Electronic engineer ). I can modify it, but the cost same as the whole body, used one.

Good luck.

Next couple day, I will post the procedure how to measure the MDK ( that they call throttle body) and the wiring hardness at the E-box, without remove MDK. ( For Pre 2000-E46, MDK with cable, no sensor at the accelerate pedal )
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Last edited by dephantn; 01-11-2011 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #30
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Great info...Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:06 PM   #31
dephantn
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When you change the MDK, they have 2 type : Green label : It is correct PN #. The Yellow label has different PN#, BUT IT IS WORK FINE TOO.
Check & test first, then if you need,
Search online, ebay, you will find some from $100 .

Last edited by dephantn; 12-28-2010 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:06 PM   #32
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Hi Guys, i had this last week so limped home. The lights have been off since and i've run the car for a few miles without them returning. Could this still be the same issue? I'm taking it later this week to be plugged into a diagnostic machine to see what it says as my emissions light is on constantly. I'll get them to check this too
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:33 PM   #33
e4sixxx
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im having the same issue, i hope it isnt the MDK. i did however find that the throttle cable bracket that hooks to the firewall was broken, i ziptied it back into place and i hope this resolves the issue, without the ziptie the throttle cable was moving around everytime the accelerator was depressed. Ill update if the zip tie did the trick for me.

by the way the peaktool came up with

Table 15:
6E (pedal sensor potentiometer #1)
A9 (motorized throttle MDK final stage failure)
AF ( pedal sensor pwg pot #1 idle position not plausible)
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Old 12-28-2010, 07:30 PM   #34
e4sixxx
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update..... just bought an MDK from Viper3812, i hope this fixes my problem
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:48 AM   #35
midnightbeamer
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Update - throttle body cleaned out and all is well thus far! I hope it stays this way...have a happy new year everyone!
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:32 PM   #36
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any updates on this thread? Im having the same codes which pointed to the throttle body. I switched it out with another one and still getting eml and asc lights on. This sucks. I should have never boughten this piece of $hit.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:08 AM   #37
e4sixxx
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I have replaced my throttle body (MDK) with one purchased from viper3812. So far so good, while I was waiting for the replacement mdk I also rebuilt the vanos units using beisan systems. I hope this mdk fixes the issue for good. I did also clear the codes with my peak tool after the first start up. Will update if codes come back or limp mode.
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:18 AM   #38
devansthedude
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I recently did the CCV on my 323i e46 99, I couldnt say if performance has increased or not since doing it as the car has consantly been throwing an EML (traction control light comes on aswell)the car will not exceed 80km/h when the code (engine derates) is thrown which depending on the incline (it will occur quicker when going up an incline) will happen in under 1km of driving. If you then turn the car off and on again the code will reset and you can get another kilometer of normal driving. With the recent purchase of a peake code reader i can tell you the code is -

6d - Motorized Throttle Valve (MDK), PWM (pulse width modulation) not plausible.

I have read alot of post with people experiencing the same issue and before spending $600 on a new throttle body i wanted to make sure that it was absolutely causing the problem

Thanks for posting the ohms readings dephantn, i've been searching quite a while for them. I then set out to see if my throttle body was the cause. Upon reading the service bulletin -http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/M52TU_Throttle_Valve.pdf
it seemed like this would certainly be the issue.

The reading i got from the throttle body were as follows

pins 2 & 4 - 1050 ohms
pins 1 & 7 - 1050 ohms

For the figures below the first is with the throttle closed the second with the throttle fully open

pins 4 & 3 - 1150 - 1850 (climbed and declined steadily with no fluctuation)
pins 4 & 5 - 1150 - 1150 (did not climb at all upon opening the throttle)
pins 7 & 6 - 1150 - 1850 (climbed and declined steadily with no fluctuation)
pins 7 & 8 - 1150 - 1550 (did not climb at all upon opening the throttle)

so given this information i'm still a little hesitant to conclude the the throttle body is stuffed. would the figured on pins 4 & 5, 7 & 8 be the cause of the EML, could anybody with this information tell me for certain my throttle body needs replacing?

I forgot the mention the fact I have checked all the wiring from the MDK up to the DME and it's all fine

Last edited by devansthedude; 01-10-2011 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 01-10-2011, 01:47 AM   #39
devansthedude
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Originally Posted by nandos_beat View Post
any updates on this thread? Im having the same codes which pointed to the throttle body. I switched it out with another one and still getting eml and asc lights on. This sucks. I should have never boughten this piece of $hit.
Did you reset the throttle adaptations? There are stored adaptations in the DME if you do not reset these before starting the car with a new or different throttle body the same issue will reoccur. You'll need a GT1 to do this which is the genuine BMW diagnostic equipment, there are some other after market equivalents carsoft I think is one. none the less a trip the the dealer will put your mind at rest. (this is not the same as clearing the fault code)
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:09 AM   #40
dephantn
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Base on your measure, I'm sure your MDK bad and causes the code & limp mode.

TIP: because your MDK measure " did not climb at all upon opening the throttle) on pins 4-5 & 7-8 , it means "openning circuit " inside the circuit at Motor side.

Yours is same 323i -1999 as mine, same problem, I changed MDK, fine until now.
Look for used one , online has some used parts sell for $100-150 with warranty ( in US) .

Last edited by dephantn; 01-10-2011 at 11:11 AM.
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