Random Gun talk Thread..

Occasional hunting and plinking. Kind of want .308, not really sure what I want tbh. It'll be a couple months, but I'll be looking around from here until then.

What caliber do you recommend?

I need your guy's honest opinion on how I should paint my AK. I'm torn on how I should paint it. Since my buddy works at RD, he is letting me custom paint it however I want.

Since I can't go with their gray (Rifle Dynamics made a deal with Travis Haley to only use gray with his model), I'm thinking of going OD.

I want this thing perfect since I'm dropping some decent coin and this will be my only AK for a very long time.

-I know I want the barrel and comp to stay black

-Not sure whether I want the triangle stock to go OD or black

-Bolt to be polished or black

-Upper and lower receiver OD green

-Safety I'm thinking to keep black

Now here are the big questions.

-Should I leave the rail, gas block with integrated front sight black
-Keep it OD and leave barrel and comp black

-Leave rail OD and keep gas block with front sight, barrel and comp black


Any other suggestions would be awesome.

I may just keep it black if I can't make up my mind.

Here are some pics for you guys.







This is the model I'm getting.

Rattle can it, once it gets chipped to badly respray.... Get tired of it later on a quick shot with braklean strips it to new. I personally dont care for solid colors like that, does very little for camo effect. The older they get the better the camo looks.

^ I just love the rough used look of weapons like that lower AR...I keep my stuff pristine, but I do love that look

Originally Posted by CollinsE90

Occasional hunting and plinking. Kind of want .308, not really sure what I want tbh. It'll be a couple months, but I'll be looking around from here until then.

What caliber do you recommend?

For all-around use, the .308 is a good choice. It's a very common load and you can find tons of loads. There are other options like .243 and any of the 6.5mm/.260 loads that have a flatter trajectory for better long range precision, but finding ammo gets a bit more difficult.

If you want a rifle that you don't plan to improve on, the Remington M700 5R is an ideal rifle, as is the 700P LTR. If you want something that is a good base platform and plan to start modding right away, the M700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD is ideal.
Lots of other options in there too, but those both work well. With .308, you don't need a barrel longer than 20", so help yourself and avoid those 26" barrels.

Someone mentioned that a .308 will be less accurate at longer distances. If so, what distances should I expect to shoot with no problem (assuming practice)?

.308 is very capable, and I've seen video of people ringing steel at a mile. Not much energy left there, but still possible. The LaRue guys do it with 16" OBRs. Generally speaking, 168gr loads are only sufficient to 800yds. After that, they go transsonic and trajectory gets inconsistent. 175gr and heavier loads from 178gr-208gr remain supersonic past 1000yds and don't go transsonic until just before 1200yds, making them very capable for long range. 155gr Palma bullets loaded to high pressure also have a high ballisitc coefficient and do well at 1000yds.
With that being said, the current 6.5mm bullet cartridges (6.5x47 Lapua, .260Rem, 6.5Creedmoor, 6.5x284, etc) have a much higher BC and fly flatter than the .308s, so they are more accurate than the .308. Every precision long range match around is being won by either a 6.5mm cartridge or a .338 cartridge (generally moreso for extreme long range beyond 1200yds). The 6.5s are good out to 1200-1300yds or so from what I've been reading. If you want to go farther than that, it's time to step up to .300Win Mag or .338Lapua mag, or any of the HTI type rounds (.375CT, .408CT, .416Barrett, etc).

If you want really good accuracy, look into the .260Remington or 6.5 Creedmoor. Both are commercially available and common nowadays; especially the .260Rem. It works better if you handload/reload, but .260Rem is still very feasible for purchase. For non-tactical use, they are superior to the .308.

Anyone happen to have some of those barrel protector sleeves on hand that they'd like to get rid of? I'm painting my .22 and want to use one to paint the barrel.

So, let's say someone has a 80% lower. If a AWB were to be put in place, you would have to serialize and register it I assume?

Serialize and register what? Your chunk of metal?

Originally Posted by NOVAbimmer

Serialize and register what? Your chunk of metal?

Well, let's say it is now a 100% lower...

Originally Posted by Reedo302

For all-around use, the .308 is a good choice. It's a very common load and you can find tons of loads. There are other options like .243 and any of the 6.5mm/.260 loads that have a flatter trajectory for better long range precision, but finding ammo gets a bit more difficult.

If you want a rifle that you don't plan to improve on, the Remington M700 5R is an ideal rifle, as is the 700P LTR. If you want something that is a good base platform and plan to start modding right away, the M700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD is ideal.
Lots of other options in there too, but those both work well. With .308, you don't need a barrel longer than 20", so help yourself and avoid those 26" barrels.

You love that AAC-SD, don't you? ...it's still on my wish list!

It is honestly a great rifle. I am in a "I hate Cerberus" charge, and I still give Remington a lot of credit for collaborating with AAC on that rifle. It's by far the best .308 rifle Remington has ever put out since the 20" 5R. I mean, the stock sucks horribly, but that's an easy fix. 20" barrel, threaded muzzle, 1:10 twist; it's the perfect base rifle platform for a monster build project.
If wasn't saving for either a KAC SR-25 or Noveske N6, or a new F30 328i, I'd have bought the AAC-SD by now.

Over time...I'm sure your dept has federal grant for OT...radar or special detail!

Anybody have experience with the m&p 9 pro? I'm thinking about trading 2 extra lowers and an extra lpk I have for 1 with 4 17rd mags. I really like the feel and how the m&p regular 9 shoots. Figure throw an apex kit in the pro and it should be a great shooting gun.

Originally Posted by BMW_Matt

Over time...I'm sure your dept has federal grant for OT...radar or special detail!

I would love some OT right about now. Need to get my F30 ordered.

Originally Posted by Adam@Euro-Spec

Anybody have experience with the m&p 9 pro? I'm thinking about trading 2 extra lowers and an extra lpk I have for 1 with 4 17rd mags. I really like the feel and how the m&p regular 9 shoots. Figure throw an apex kit in the pro and it should be a great shooting gun.

Are you familiar with the G34 vs G17, or G35 vs G22? If so, it's the same difference with the M&P vs M&P Pro. This is report that I got that on it.

Originally Posted by MSpired

Well, let's say it is now a 100% lower...

If you start off with a 80% lower then it does not need to be registered even with an AWB in place. If there wasn't a serial number on there to begin with, there is no way to trace that "chunk of metal".

Originally Posted by Reedo302

I would love some OT right about now. Need to get my F30 ordered.



Are you familiar with the G34 vs G17, or G35 vs G22? If so, it's the same difference with the M&P vs M&P Pro. This is report that I got that on it.

Yup, will be more of a range toy/competition gun when i have time for those. I have a p226, 1911 & a g19 for self defense. I might get the slide milled for a rmr if i get crazy

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Bimmer App

I am really having a hard time not sending my M&P9 to ATEi. They are doing some amazing stuff.

Originally Posted by Kris.R

If you start off with a 80% lower then it does not need to be registered even with an AWB in place. If there wasn't a serial number on there to begin with, there is no way to trace that "chunk of metal".

Actually your wrong about that. In the case of a AWB recievers with out identification will have to be marked with the builders name, city, state, and SN.

If your going to ignore the laws you may as well get a low shelf, jig, and drill a 3rd pin hole. Since your breaking a NFA law you might away break a similar law... Punishments gona be the same eather way, might as well have a machine gun to boot.