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General E46 Forum
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:09 AM   #41
Nike11
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could i use lucas injector cleaner? or should it be sea foam?
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:30 PM   #42
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What codes were you getting?
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Spends $2000 on car DVD + stereo -> Running 25000 mile oil changes and 87 gas with blown shocks
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by DADON4SHO View Post
let me get the straight.
1- unplug the hose
2- pour sea foam in hose
3- while hose is unplugged run the car for 5 sec OR do i plug the hose back on?
4- repeat this 3 times at least.
5- plug everything back together.
6- expect white smoke.

let me know thanks guys!
can someone verify this?
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:36 PM   #44
shanneba
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Post number two in this thread states:

"The hose will hold just over an ounce of Seafoam. Reconnect the hose and run the car 5 seconds so the air pump blows the Seafoam into the exhaust port. Repeat this fill and restart 3 more times only running the engine 5 seconds so the secondary air pump runs for the 3 fills. "
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:25 PM   #45
hi its me alec
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Good thread, I just bought an OEM air box thinking that it would solve my check engine light. Returning P1421 and 1423 codes brought me here.

My light was intermittent at first, it would literally go on and off randomly for days/weeks/months at a time, until recently, it hasn't turned off in a month or so now.

Going to try Seafoam first
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:56 AM   #46
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The primary issue with the SAP is caused by two things:
- the check valve in the vacuum system needs to be replaced occasionally
- the solenoid that controls the air flow to the SAP valve needs to be removed, and cleaned with electronic parts cleaner
These two items are the source of the issue in most cases. The solenoid actuates the valve to open it. When it deactivates, the vacuum in the line needs to bleed off rapidly, to close the valve. The check valve in the vacuum line to the solenoid is what causes the vacuum to bleed off. If the SAP valve does not close immediately, because the vacuum is not bleeding off, the valve stays open, and exhaust gasses blow through the valve, and into the pump. This will kill the pump eventually.
This Seafoam procedure does not address the root cause. It simply cleans out the valve, and the cycle starts again. If you pull off the hose from the pump to the valve, look inside the hole, and see soot from engine exhaust blowing past the valve, then you need to replace the check valve, and clean the solenoid. Replace the rubber hoses as well. If the system is working normally, you should see a nice, clean valve when you look inside there. Anything else is a sign of a larger problem that will eventually kill your SAP.
Another sign of a failure of the vacuum actuation is if your hose from the SAP to the valve is degrading. It should be firm, and hard to compress. Check the large vacuum line from your brake booster for reference. They should feel the same. If it is degrading, it is because of exhaust gasses blowing by a SAP valve that is not closing in time to prevent exhaust gasses from back flowing into the pump. I have seen many people advise replacement of the hose, but a degraded hose is a symptom of another problem.
The fix is fairly cheap, but a bit labor intensive, due to the location of the solenoid and the check valve. If you want to save your $400 SAP pump, I would advise dealing with the problem, rather than treating a symptom (dirty SAP valve).
Also, it is much easier to just remove the valve, and clean it with brake cleaner, rather than pouring Seafoam in your engine. You can also access the port in the head with the valve off, and clean it as well. BUT, you need to deal with the root cause of the problem, in addition to cleaning the valve.

Last edited by MJLavelle; 06-19-2013 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:12 AM   #47
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^^^ This sounds like a better idea…Ive just started having these cold start issues on my 03 325i and Im really hoping its nothing serious
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:22 AM   #48
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Secondary Air Pump & Valve

I used to get secondary injection codes now Iam getting post car too rich codes. Is the rich code from lack of oxygen from the pump? Only happens when it's really cold


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Old 12-18-2013, 06:43 AM   #49
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You are not likely getting Rich codes, you probably have Lean codes. If you are using a BMW type of specific software, it probably says something like fuel control at Rich deviation, this reference means the engine is running lean and the fuel control cannot compensate for the massive lean condition.

SAP not working does not cause fuel management issues other than slower O2 sensor and catalytic converter warm up.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 12-18-2013, 12:56 PM   #50
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Secondary Air Pump & Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
You are not likely getting Rich codes, you probably have Lean codes. If you are using a BMW type of specific software, it probably says something like fuel control at Rich deviation, this reference means the engine is running lean and the fuel control cannot compensate for the massive lean condition.

SAP not working does not cause fuel management issues other than slower O2 sensor and catalytic converter warm up.
The code I was getting was post cat too rich. And used to get injection codes at like 40 degree but now being so cold I only rich


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Old 12-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #51
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Please provide the exact code and description.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:59 PM   #52
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Secondary Air Pump & Valve

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Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Please provide the exact code and description.
I can't remember the number for secondary air injection. But the rich code is p1093 pre cat bank 2 rich


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Old 01-13-2014, 03:07 PM   #53
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ive been getting the same codes and confirmed my air pump is dead - getting 12 volts to it on startup, but its not running. So i spend the $500 in parts to replace the pump and valve. Seems like a very easy job.

i was just wondering though - i don't notice a difference in the way the car runs. Whats the risks if i don't replace them, and leave it as is? Am i causing damage to the motor?
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:03 PM   #54
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After using the Seafoam trick I think it breathed new life into the hose around the Secondary Air Pump. It's been several weeks now and there has been no occurrence of the check engine light or code P0492. I highly recommend this if you aren't sure if the SAP is the culprit or if it's simply a hose and air flow issue.

Last edited by TripleDigits; 04-15-2014 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:08 PM   #55
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Just did the seaform clean out, so far so good time will tell.

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