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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 03-24-2010, 04:36 AM   #1
kami9a
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Front & Rear brake pad and rotor, e46 323i

to start make sure you have:
-flat head screwdriver (removing dustcover, metal clips & a bunch of other things)
-torque wrench
-ratchet wrench
-17mm socket (for wheel lugs)
-16mm socket (back of caliper housing)
-C-clamp (compress caliper)
-allen 7mm (slide screws on back of caliper)
-allen 6mm (rotor alignment nut)
-anti-seize for nuts
-grease (slide screws)
-jack (lift the car)
-small bungee (support caliper after removing it)
-hope fully you will have rubber gloves it can get messy and some orange-pumas soap for cleaning your hands after...


1- Start by jacking the car up just a bit so there is still pressure on the tire but not full pressure... then brake the wheel lugs loose, about 1/2 -1 turn is enough, continue jacking the car until the wheel is an inch of the ground. continue by unscrewing the lugs and removing the wheel...



2- using the flat head screwdriver against the inside edge of the rotor in the middle of the caliper spring (metal clip) release the two center clips and it should come off (some times it shoots off so be careful!)



3- remove the 2 dust-covers on the back of the caliper, the flat head screwdriver may help but you can probably just use your hands. inside this you will find two slide screws one under each dust-cover. these will need a 7mm allen to be removed (remember its backwards so left is right when loosening). when they are both out you can remove the caliper.
- if you are just doing pads only this is where you replace pads and sensor (drivers front & passenger rear) and work in reverse back to torquing the tire lugs back on in a star pattern.

4-you are continuing to replace your rotor, next you will remove the rotor alignment nut. this nut is found in between two of the wheel lug nut holes and has a 6mm allen head. you will need an additional allen here one that is small enough to fit inside the fins of the rotor so you can remove the 6mm allen without the rotor just spinning. when you go to loosen the 6mm allen the allen in the rotor fins should bind against the caliper housing and stop the rotor from spinning. finish removing the 6mm allen and then remove the allen stuck in the rotor fins.



5- next remove the caliper housing, this will be achieved by removing 2 16mm head bolts at the back of the housing (these can be on tight so be careful!). Once removed you can continue to remove the housing.



6- you should be able to remove the rotor now, if the rotor is still stuck the use of a rubber mallet on the rotor may help brake up rust buildup between the rotor and wheel hub causing it to stick, jiggle it around and it will eventually come off.



7- now work backwards and use lots of anti-seize!!!
- new rotor goes on and anti-seize on the hub before its on to make it easier for it to come of next time!



8- caliper housing goes back on (anti-seize on the bolts first) in this same step you can align the rotor and replace the 6mm alignment screw (same technique as before).



9- caliper needs to be able to hold the new pads so this is where you use the C-clamp to press the caliper drum back in to the caliper providing enough space for the thicker pads and new rotor. fit all together (use hi-temp grease behind the pads to help reduce brake noise) put in place and slide in your 2 cleaned and greased slide screws. tighten down with 7mm allen and once fully tightened replace the 2 dust-caps.

10- finally we can replace the spring in the front of the caliper (use the screwdriver again it can be tricky), and replace the wheel tightening the the 17mm lugs as best as possible.



11- lower the car just a bit so the tire touches the ground and tighten the 17mm lugs more. lower the car fully and using the torque wrench tighten the 17mm lugs to your desired torque.

all 4 wheels are similar with a slight difference in the back, you will have to make sure your e-brake is fully disengaged to remove the rear rotors and you may want to order replacement e-brake pads that require a few more steps but are still easy to replace, I inspected mine and did not need to replace them.

Good luck and i hope this was of some help to some one!
i used a local company to source my pads and rotors they are "SpeedNet Motorsports" and they sell good parts at a great price!!! (Local SoCal)
there website is (http://www.speednetmotorsports.com/index.html)
and there contact info is Toll Free (800) 530-3514 or Local (714) 702-5288
they carry Centric, Stoptech, & Hawk. they have brake lines and the electric brake sensors!

Last edited by kami9a; 03-24-2010 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 03-24-2010, 04:39 AM   #2
kami9a
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yeah, i know i need to wash my car...
and i swear the curb rash wasn't from me!! lol,
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:21 AM   #3
Hartman
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pics don't work
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:15 PM   #4
kami9a
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that should be better, if you need any other pics or have questions I'll do my best to help...
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:18 PM   #5
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thanks to state inspection i'm due sooner than expected - thanks for the pics...
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:35 AM   #6
kami9a
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state inspection of your car??? what??
what do they do, measure the thickness of the rotor?? take it all apart just to check it??
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:05 PM   #7
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Just got another set of rotors and brakes from this company for my friends car!!! Best service ever!!!
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Old 08-21-2010, 01:59 PM   #8
Oz Striker
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Could someone tell me the correct torques settings for the following?:

The two 16mm headed bolts on the back of the caliper housing
The two 7mm allen type caliper guide bolts

Thanks.
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:15 AM   #9
gsbmw
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The two 16mm headed bolts on the back of the caliper housing
I am fairly sure you are talking about the brake pad carrier mounting bolts. Their torques are:
Front: 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)
Rear: 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

The two 7mm allen type caliper guide bolts
Torque: 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)

Last edited by gsbmw; 08-23-2010 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:55 PM   #10
woorick
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Nice install thread...I'm in need of some brakes and have seen this company as well...Anyone else have experience with these brakes?

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Old 11-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #11
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can you do a writeup on rebuilding a motor
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:53 AM   #12
kami9a
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I might have to do a writeup on a rebuild, lol, my exhaust valves in the number one cylinder are both broken... new motor or rebuild... not sure yet... :/
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:25 PM   #13
kami9a
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i went to buy another set of rotors and pads but the link didn't work, their new site is (http://www.speednetmotor.com/), the numbers still seems current...
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:36 AM   #14
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what is machine the discs ?
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:45 AM   #15
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are rotors and discs the same thing. please explain. still learning .
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:43 PM   #16
kami9a
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yes, rotors and discs are the same thing,
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:20 PM   #17
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Awesome thread ! Thanks kami9a
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:04 PM   #18
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Machining the rotor is where a lathe is moved across each face of the rotor to create a smooth, flat surface, devoid of any ridges. If the rotor is still within it's wear limits, it can then continue to be used.

BMW and Bentley both do not recommend greasing the guide bolts (the ones the caliper slides on, that are tightened to 30nm), rather, leave the smooth surfaces dry.
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